UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_961-7838...

biscuit: I hope that you have successfully recovered your ego Gimme Shelter. Good call to skip the weekend session and i hope that you felt a little bit more recovered this week.

Somerset swede basher: Looks like you had an awesome time in france so far. I hope things continue you like that and that you have a great time in Font with hopefully not too hot weather.

Derek Furze: Great to hear that your shoulder is getting back and that you are (conditionally ) all clear to go clmbing again. I hope you had a good start into the vertical world this week and that new rehab exercises are working.

mattrm: Good to hear that your ribs are feeling better, i can tell from experience that this is a really nasty injury. I hope you had a good start back at work and that the week was not too stressful.

Alan Little:6c onsight on the Freimann comp wall shows some good fitness, well done. If you are able to do that one a consistent basis, you should be in good shape for Kalymnos in autumn. Glad to hear that still managed to make use of the long weekend and at least got one good day out in the alps. As you said weather in the alps can be tricky so if you are set on one specific goal having at least one week is a much better strategy.

Si dH: Just to try hard is definitely the right attitude when training during hot or otherwise harder than usual conditions. I hope the conditions improved a little bit during this week and that you had a nice holiday.

Exile: An easy week after high volume and subsequent illness looks like a good call to me. Good Job on Teenage Wasteland, as you said it would have been nice to do it in a day, but just knowing that it is possible already shows some big improvement.

Ross Barker: Congratulations on doing Amarna! It is really great to see your recent level of progression and i hope that with good conditions in autumn you can get the 8A milestone done.

Tom Green: Good job on "Ain't nothing to It". Having the courage to get on the route in the first place and then climbing till you fall is in my opinion much for important then getting the send. If you show up with that attitude and mental strength sooner or later the sends will follow.

Btphonehome: Great to see you back and that you are on your way back to peak shape. I hope the more relaxed work schedule aligns with some good weather and conditions on the weekend.

Ian Parnell: First of all, sorry for forgetting your stats last week. Somehow my illness must have led to some brain fog and i just noticed that your missing while compiling this weeks stats. While the overall volume this week was not that high, i think after the two epic trad sessions on the weekend it would not be fair to call it a rest week. All in all, sounds like an awesome place though as a sport climber who complains once the approach is longer than 5 minutes i am not sure if it would be my cup of tea

AJM: Moving is always stressfull so i am not surprised that it filled up your week completely. I hope this week was a little bit better and that you have started to settle in. And i am pretty sure that sooner or later both the board as well as the fingerboard will be back in action.

planetmarshall Welcome back! It looks like you have a lot of room to expand your grade pyramid, if you have never been on a 6c and still have a shot at onsighting it.  

Small Step: Great to see you back! Sorry to hear that somehow the plan to go outdoor climbing did not work out for you during the last weeks. Nevertheless, in my opinion the real outdoor season is just about to start to plenty of time still left in this year to make that happpen.

In reply to Randy:

Not much to report other than that i am slowly recovering from my illness. The health data that i collect with my watch is almost back to normal, but i am still feeling weak and sleeping more  than usual. Goal for next week is to fully get healthy again and do some light training on the weekend.

In reply to Randy:

Thanks Randy.  Sorry to hear that you have spent more than a week being ill.  Hope you can get back to things soon.

I've had a good week with rehab and other stuff going on.

Sun - rest.  Becoming a habit somehow.

Mon - 5.5km brisk walk.  Seated shoulder raises 3x8 with only 2 kg.  Alternate shoulder presses 3x12 with the same light weight.  Overhead engagement pulls with a exercise band 3x15 and lat hangs stretch 3 sets of six breaths.

Tues - a 4 km run, but still slightly fast for z2.  Need to slow down more from race tempo and then look to extend distance.

Wed - off to Wales for rehab club with my mate who has had a hip replacement.  Great day on ropes doing Sub Cneifion Rib and Cneifion Arete (mostly soloed).  Both lovely and straightforward, but enough for our current condition.  No particular aches while doing the climbing bit, but again pretty sore on the way down to the car.

Thurs - 2 km loosener walk.  Repeat Monday exercises - Seated shoulder raises 3x8 with only 2 kg.  Alternate shoulder presses 3x12 with the same light weight.  Overhead engagement pulls with a exercise band 3x15 and lat hangs stretch 3 sets of six breaths.

Fri - Lateral scapula pulls 3x6 and 3x6 scapula shrugs.  An evening of dancing.

Saturday - another new parkrun and a good one.  Running pace was the best since injury at about 5:45 per km, but still had to stop four times to stretch out shoulders and back.  To be fair, they were a bit sore before I got going, probably as a result of the rehab work.  I'm ok with losing time to stretch out pain, because there will come a time where it isn't necessary and at least my pace will be back by then.  Encouraging as I didn't need to stop until the 3 km mark (but then three more short stops), so it is feeling comfortable for longer and the pace would have got my age-graded score to over 60%.

Reflections:  Reading this back, it seems pretty small beer really, but actually I'm excited by the signs!  I felt very comfortable at 5:45 and could have gone faster, though probably with the trade off of getting sore quicker!  Same with climbing, where it felt easy, as it should, but I also suspect that pushing too hard too soon would lead to setbacks, so I'm planning to take it steady.  We both have injuries to rehab and Charles is joining us soon, so three crocks will be rehabbing together.  I've quite a list of Classic Rock targets to chase, so plenty to keep me occupied.

I made the report sheet of achievements on Parkrun Numbers and Challenges (FB).  My arrival at the milestone of 25 was noted.  As posted to the WhatsApp group, the other achievements put mine in a very shady place, but got to start somewhere!

In reply to Randy:

Thanks again for the stats Randy. It looks like you are on the mend illness wise, but don't rush back to training too soon - we've all done that I'm sure!

Training / aims:

Spring / Summer 2025 climbing aims:

Weight - keep to daily 78.something kg X

Keep to training programme and climbing through what will be a full on work year.

Winter climb when available ✓

Redpoint 7b (Straight Tach, Millside Scar) ✓

Headpoint E6 6b (Exequy, Red Wall, Trowbarrow) ✓

Onsighting harder mountain E2s (eg Equus ✓ Astra ✓ Tumbleweed Connection, Fast Burn ✓)

*Maybe E3s (Cruel Sister, Paladin, Air on a Bow String) & E4s that suit me (One Step Beyond, Malice in Wonderland)

*Maybe Needle and Citadel (Shelterstone) in a day as Comici prep? X

*Big Alpine rock route – 12 to 24hr cardio & climbing effort – Cassin / Comici? X

*Aspirational goals

Longer term climbing aims: 

Regularly have adventures in great places with good friends & family ✓

Continue Alpine route progression to complete more big classic alpine rock routes.

Continue British winter climbing ✓

Continue climbing Hard Rock type routes outside the Lakes.

Keep Head/Red Point grade in 7s ✓ and E5s ✓

Onsight up to at least E2 ✓ & V ✓ (winter) each year.

Improve while not getting injured 

M - 18.8.25 - 

W - 79.5kg

am - 30min shoulder back & finger antag' exercises 

am -  Weights A -

Internal shoulder rotations - 12.5kgx5=

External shoulder rotations - 12.5kgx5 =

3x3 off set shoulder shrugs =

Weighted pull ups. - 3x2 PUs+15kg. -

Bench press with bars x9+40kg x6+50kg  x3+60kg - New

3x3 High box squats - New

Deep squats x3+40kg x3+50kg x3+50kg - New

6x3 Leg raises on bar

pm - 5km / 30min fell run 

T - 19.8.25 - 

W - 78.6kg

Climbing @ Castle Rock. Alt led Overhanging Bastion (HVS 4b/4c/5a/4a***) Seconded Gazebo (HVS 5a***)

W - 20.8.25 - 

W - 79.8kg. Ate a lot late

Travel

T - 21.8.25 - 

W - ?

am - 30min sea front run

8hr (with stops) coastal path walk

F - 22.8.25 - 

W - ?

am - 40min sea front run

pm - 2.5hr leisurely sea kayak 

S - 23.8.25 - 

W - ?

am - 40min woodland run

pm - 2hr coastal path walk

S - 24.8.25 - 

W - ?

am - 55min woodland run

am - 1hr 40min woodland walk

pm - Travel

Reflections -

I've changed the weights session a little which has added a bit of interest. 

I really enjoyed the Castle Rock trip as it was with one of my sons who led his second and third HVSs on his 21st birthday.

I've had most of the week holidaying with Mrs. Exile on Jersey. Lots of walking and, for me 'beach safety' while she snorkelled. (I don't like cold water at the best of times and, to be honest, nowadays I can see slightly less than f&+k all without my glasses on.)  I suspect the weight has taken a bit more of a hit, but I have used the opportunity to kick start some running to start slowly building a winter climbing cardio base.

In reply to Derek Furze:

It may feel like pretty small beer, but just compare it to your entry from, say, a month ago. 

In reply to Derek Furze:

Well done Derek, it must feel great to be back on rock

In reply to Randy: Sorry to hear youe still under the weather, good luck getting back up to speed. Don't worry you didn't miss me, I was tucked in at the end next To AJMs.

STG – Never to Look Back (7b) 7b (1-2 months)

MTG - (1-2 months) – Do the final move of Brachiation Dance (7b+)

LTG – 15 grade 7 sport routes (13/15) with 6 at 7a+ or above (3/6)

Mon – Nothing. Very tired from the weekend

Tuesday – The Works. Warmed up with 5 blue and 5 greens, then did the Purple Circuit (30 problems?) theoretically around Font 5, but would get a higher grade at places like the Depot (and probably lower in Font ha ha!). Most went first go but one problem proved particularly tough needing probably 10 attempts. Interesting circuit and more technical than the Depot.

Wednesday – 2.5 miles 25mins plod around woods.

Thursday – Depot before work. Warmed up with 5x green, white and blue. Then did black circuit, although last 5 problems got roped off for resetting, so did a couple of pinks. Very tired bunny afterwards.

Fri – Nothing.

Saturday – Chee Dale. Runyon’s corner. Tried to warm up on The Plea (6a+), which felt desperate at the grade. Not sure what’s going on here as there are supposed to be 2 routes on this bit of rock including a 6c but there was only one line of bolts. Bag of shite either way. Then bolt to bolt/stick clipped up Never to Look Back (7b) and had 2 top ropes. Managed all the moves but for one short bit at the second/third bolt. Really interesting climbing almost all on side pulls and undercuts with lots of limestone smears up a steadily leaning arete. No nasty holds or clips and in a really fine position at the head of the dale. Keen to plug away at this as it feels much more my kind of thing than Brachiation Dance.

Sunday – Nothing

Reflection - I felt exhausted from the previous weekend but as we’re off for a short family holiday next week I wanted to try to keep training going. When I get back the plan is to switch my short stint of stamina training doing full easier circuits to a more power endurance approach. Any ideas welcome but probably circuit board, 4 x 4 boulder problems and foot on campus board? Quite excited to find a 7b that is nice to climb and motivates me

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Gary's favourite Chee Dale route 🙂

In reply to Derek Furze:

That's cool. Here's a nice pic I took of him on it

In reply to Randy:

Thanks Randy. Sorry to hear you're still ill. Come back slowly. You've obviously been hit by something more than being a bit under the weather. Let your body recover.

M -  Brantrake Crags - we bailed because it was too cold back in May/June I think. Early morning hit to get the shade. Led Central Crack (VS 5a) which was a struggle. Proper crack climbing with feet needing to go in some small cracks. Then seconded Right-hand Crack (HVS 5b) which was ringlocks for me at the crux and felt very hard. Both brilliant routes though.

We mooched about looking at a couple of other routes on main wall (dirty and bold) and then went to upper wall which allegedly had an E1 on it that was about VS (unless I had suddenly got a lot better at cracks) and and did another VS there as well. Though they were more broken than the main wall routes they were both good.

T - Working away at Oakwood wall 

W - Working away at Oakwood wall

T - Rest

F -  Goat Crag, Borrowdale. Seconded Praying Mantis (E1 5b) and led Tumbleweed Connection (E2 5c). I won't spoil TC for Exile with any beta but it's involved route finding and I'm pleased to say it all felt steady. 3* for sure.

S - Stretch and shoulder/wrist rehab

S -  Higgar Tor. Interesting day. Seconded The Riffler (HVS 5a) then led Surform (E1 5b) (which was also HVS in the guide). Steep, juggy, HVS felt like well within my wheelhouse. I totally didn't give the route the respect it deserved. I didn't even really look at it. Just saw the obvious flake and jugs. I didn't spot there wasn't much for feet at points, or where you're supposed to head left using the slightly hidden crack you reach round to, I got myself in a right mess and lost the energy/psyche/confidence for trying the Rasp. Seconded The Rat's Tail (VS 5a) and then led The File (VS 4c) to finish, which is magnificent.

One day I'll learn to not be blase about HVS. I'm annoyed at myself.

On the plus side I managed my energy better this week and got on a fair few cracks. 

Next week more of the same then we're off to Fairhead on the 4th Sept. Psyched!

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Foot on campusing 2min on 2min off x 6 worked really well for me to prep for a crimpy 7b a few years back. 

In reply to biscuit:

Tumbleweed Connection - 

Feel free to shower me with beta! 😁 

In all seriousness I've heard route finding can be the issue. Many have called it high in the grade so a good effort there fella. 

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Looks really good!  Easy access as well

In reply to Randy:

Gute Besserung Randy.

A week in which I felt tired, and looking back over it that's not surprising: two days out in the hills and three decent wall sessions

STG: Resume local sport climbing
MTG: Autumn '25 - tufa 7a
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 823

M:    I had the day booked off work for driving back from Switzerland. Since I'm not driving back from Switzerland, and had no climbing partners available at short notice on a weekday, I considered cancelling but instead went back to Ehrwald for another big day out in the hills. 
On the opposite side of the same cirque as the Sonnenspitze there's a link-up of three via ferratas: Seebensteig, Tajakante, Coburger Steig. I've done the first two before but didn't quite have the fitness (or the required alpine start discipline!) for all three in a day. Today I did. 1500 metres of vert in total of which 900 is cabled VF, and these are all steep technical VFs that require being clipped in most of the way - D/E on the Austrian A to E grading scale. Very different from things like the Alpspitze that are just exposed hiking with a handrail where I never bother clipping in. In fact the last section, the Coburger Steig that I hadn't done before, was bloody hard and quite scary, involving sections of laybacking the cable with feet on not a lot. Definitely the hardest VFing I've ever done - if this is a "D/E" I'm not sure I'd want to encounter a full "E".

T:    Rest day. Half an hour stretching out aching legs
W:    More resting apart from some prophylactic shoulder & knee work

T:    Thalkirchen. Having missed Tuesday (because knackered), did a mileage session. Twelve routes mostly around 6b/+. My fitness seems to be improving: managed a credible onsight attempt on a 6c+ as route number eight, immediately after four laps on 6b+.

F:    Couldn't resist the temptation to stop by Thalkirchen on my way home for a quick second go redpoint of the 6c+ I tried yesterday, and couple of goes on a 7a crimp ladder next to it.
    Bike one hour; stretching

S:    Didn't feel like another big arduous mountain day but I wanted to get outside. Conveniently there's a hill near Garmisch with exactly a thousand metres of vert from the car park to the summit. So: vertical kilometre time trial. 1:30 for 1k up and 4k horizontal, which I'm quite pleased with.

S:    Freimann. Focused today on mileage and confidence building in the steep. Nine routes, most of them on the comp wall, including four 6b's and a 6b+ that I fell off.
    Contemplated going on the bike but sanity prevailed and I took the U-Bahn instead

In reply to Randy:

Good evening everyone, hope you're all doing well.

Cheers! I've not got my eye on any 8As, I struggle to think of any that might suit me as well as Amarna and La Balance did. La Balance sans Pocket is apparently 8A, but I've done the moves on it and makes little difference for me, and it's an eliminate - not bothered about doing it at all. I think I should build a stronger base around 7C/+ (and 7A/B in anti-style) as well, and try and build more confidence in my fingers as that is what most stuff at that sort of grade requires! 

A poorish week for me. Tweaky finger, felt like I was moving poorly, and life just generally being life. Did some rehab and training at least.

Last Week:

Avg weight - 76.0kg.

M - A couple miles woodland walk.

T - 1h climbing. Tried MB but just felt weak and sloppy. Left ring A4 felt sore so avoided aggravation. 4x one arm negatives, 5x5s ~18mm F3HC.

W - Rest.

T - Cave. Felt off. Mostly punted around. Finger still felt iffy but most stuff didn't aggravate it. Popped a few ollies on grass.

F - Golf. Plenty of walking, plenty of water features to lose the balls in.

S - 45m steady bouldering. 4x7s lockoffs, 5x5s 13mm F3HC. Finger felt way better though still a touch tweaky, but my mind wasn't there for properly trying hard. Scrappy 10m skate afterwards.

S - Rest.

Next Week:

BHM - Cave?

T - Rest.

W - Rest.

T - Climbing/rehab.

F - Rest.

S, S - Rest.

Goals:

Ingrain a "rehab first" approach to climbing sessions.

One arm pull-up.

Improve lower body mobility.

Louisville Lip.

The Punk SDS.

Rigpa.

In reply to Exile:

No beta spoiling (there will still be plenty for you to figure out), but the route definitely goes under the overlap, traversing left for about 6 metres after the arete, past the 2 diagonal cracks and all the way past the left side of the overlap. 

There seems to be a trend of getting to the right side of the overlap and heading up to the groove from there. It looks great, but seems to be significantly harder. The Borrowdale guide is a bit indistinct in its description.

Then up the, very improbable looking, black headwall on a line that takes you to the right of the peg. It's quite a new peg and was a bit of a stretch for me to clip. You can see the original stub closer too you at this point.

Then it's the traverse right to the groove, but don't switch off!

Nothing too difficult but it keeps you doubting yourself all the way.

Possibly my second fave route of the year - it'd take a lot to beat Steeple.

In reply to Ross Barker:

GOLF?

In reply to Randy:

Cheers Randy, holiday is going well.

Mon. Rocher Cannon. Did another 12 of the reds but was tired from yesterday so ended up having a short one.

Tues. Feeling a bit fresher after a short day yesterday. Finished Red Circuit (TD+) then finished Yellow Circuit (PD) with the boy.

Wed. Rain - a short walk then entertained 6 primary school aged children in a caravan for hours and hours. Not really very restful!

Thurs. Flashed Blue Circuit (Grade D) (D) with my climbing partner then did Métaphore (f7A) while we were waiting for the girls and the kids to get there then did Yellow Circuit (PD-) (PD-) with the boy.

Fri. Did the start of the red and the yellow circuits at Rocher St. Germain. Tired from yesterday.

Sat. Went to Paris for the day.

Sun. Finished Whole Red Circuit (TD+) on my own early doors then went back in the evening with the boy to finish Whole Yellow circuit (PD+).

In reply to biscuit:

Haha, yes, golf! My dad and brother are quite into it so I occasionally partake. I think I didn't play any last year but the year before I definitely had two or three rounds in the summer. Don't worry, it won't replace climbing any time soon!

In reply to Randy:

Thanks Randy. We had a really good time thanks. Climbing-wise it was nice to visit a new crag, and also to remind myself just how impressive a lot of the north coast of Cornwall is.

My updated goals:

 - to make the most of my half-days out (twice a month weather-permitting)

 - get gradually stronger on the my home board until I can repeat most of the 7As fairly quickly again

 - 3 bodyweight hangs on the 10mm edge each week

 - keep up the current diet (~1900 kcal per day + exercise, LTG is back down to ~75kg from a starting weight of about 84.5kg on 13/04)

This week:

M: hols in Cornwall; family visit to Tintagel castle.

T: wet day escape to the Eden Project. Not a recommended wet day escape in August, it was very expensive, way over-crowded and pretty stressful.

W: morning at Tintagel boulders again, this time with my eldest. We both really enjoyed it. I managed to do All Along the Watchtower (f7B) pretty quickly after working it on Sunday (really great problem) and also did The Apprentice (f7A+) (not so good really, largely about pain tolerance). Sol did a good number of problems of his size too. Being honest I think the two problems I did are slightly overgraded, I agree with the original(?) grades of 7A+ and 7A in the 1st edition Boulder Britain. Nevertheless a really good couple of hours.

T: all day beach day. I did some active pulls on my portable hangboard in the evening.

F: drive to Lyme Regis/Charmouth for beach/fossil hunting. Whacked a lot of bits of rock with other bits of rock.

S: Lyme Regis touristing.

S: drive home. Bodyweight in evening 77.0 kg.

Chuffed with getting things done at Tintagel and with how much my son enjoyed it too. I ate a lot this week and had a drink most nights so am not surprised by a bit of weight gain.

Si

In reply to Ross Barker:

I think it has many similarities to climbing - you’re never going to be better than golf and no matter how well you’ve played you’ll always find something you can criticise yourself about.

Like all the best sports it’s based around repeated failure 😆 

In reply to biscuit:

The trouble is that when you are playing golf well, the game tempts you to take on more and more low percentage shots.  Just one big three iron with just a little bit of fade and I'll be on in two and looking at an eagle.  Or, as normally turned out, looking for my ball in the gorse bushes on the right of the green 😂

In reply to Derek Furze:

Back on rock and best pace since injury - well done Derek on a top week. It’s been great following your recovery. These things may seem like small beer but they are really significant after such a horrendous event.

Good luck with the Classic Rock and Park Run targets.

In reply to Randy:

Thank you, Randy.

Sorry to read about ongoing illness. Best wishes for your recovery and return to training.

w/c 18.08.25

Monday

AM – Hip and shoulder mobility

PM - Rest

Tuesday

Lakes day raid. Left Manchester at 07:15 headed for Eagle Crag (Grisedale). A good day on the crag with Alt Leads of Sobrenada (HVS 5a) and Pericles (E1 5b). Then led Warbird (VS 4c) and finished on alt leads of Kestrel wall (S 4a). 

Wednesday

AM – Shoulder and lower back mobility.

PM – Little Depot: Max Pull-Ups: 5x3reps @ 20kg (1), 24kg (4) Bicep Curls 3x8 @ 12.5kg, Hammer Curls: 3x8 @10kg, Bent Rows: 3x8 @ 27.5kg, Shoulder Press: 3x8 @ 15kg, External Rotations: 3x10 @ 7.5kg, Lateral Raise 3x8 @10kg. Hip mobility

Thursday

AM – Dog sitting for our mates lovely Sproodle. Early 5km walk locally.

PM – 1 hour Holcombe Moor run after work with the pooch. 9.8km 220m ascent.

Friday

Drove to Langdale. A nice afternoon on  White Ghyll starting with Alt Lead of Forget me Not (E1 5b). Followed Man of Straw (E1 5b) then led Feet of Clay (E1 5b). Finished following The Palestinians (E1 5b).

Saturday

Very still conditions up on Pavey Ark. Alt lead the fantastic The Bracken-Clock (E2 5c) then finished on Cascade (HVS 5a) which was also excellent.

Sunday

Walked up The Band and across to Shelter Crags. Alt lead the brilliant Panjandrum (E1 5b) then led the massive mossy corner line of Moonstruck (E1 5b), which was challenging but surprisingly good despite the greenery.    

Summary

A great week overall with a day raid followed by a brilliant weekend in a very quiet Langdale. Quiet that is apart from the speakers booming out at the shoreside party up on Stickle Tarn. With the weather changing, if that’s the last weekend of good conditions this year in the Lakes then it’s been a good one (though fingers crossed for a few more opportunities).

Having had a clumsy foot pop following Feet of Clay in May I was pleased to lead this on Friday. Effectively RP’d the groove having just followed Man of Straw but nice to put it to bed on the sharp end. A good mix of climbing throughout the weekend and nice to get some back-to-back hill days in.

Plenty of rain ahead in the forecast so looks like a training week plus some more mileage with the dog until she goes home on Saturday.

Looks like everyone has been having a good time of it over Bank Holiday.

Have good week all.  

In reply to Randy:

Thanks for doing the stats Randy.  

Weight - 14st
STG - 6b
MTG - 6c - 34/100 routes/problems this year
LTG - Western Front Direct (7a) at Navigation Quarry

BHAG - F7A boulder somewhere / kickflip

M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Climbing wall
T - Rest
F - 7k run + Sport at Gilwern
S - Rest
S - 15k family bike ride

Running KMs - 7 kms

Meant to say well done to Ross for the tick and Dom for the immense alpine week.  Better late than never?

Decent week.  Got out to do some sport on Friday night (fr4, fr4+ and fr5).  Nothing hard, just again easy stuff that's good for the head.  Took my family to the climbing wall on Weds, which was surprising as my wife has previously been pretty anti-climbing.  But she had a good time and wants to go again, which is excellent news.  I took my son to the swimming pool and manage to smack my hand on the side of the slide, which was pretty painful.  So climbing hasn't been great.  Not doing too well on the injury front at the moment.  Hopefully it'll be better soon.  Other niggles are still niggly.  Holidays are almost done and son is back to school next week, so hopefully things will get back to normal then.

In reply to Randy:

MIA last week on holiday. Away again now in NL with work.

Week 34

M – Holiday.

T – Holiday. Overcoming eccentrics with force board.

W – Holiday.

T – Rainy day – “swimming” with 2 and 4y.o. We took turns to have a 5min adult swim, but otherwise it was mainly supervising children.

F – Overcoming eccentrics with force board.

S – Travelling home via Rheinfalls.

S – 34km, 74min “hilly” ride, including hyperventilating cobbled climb of Alderley edge.

Week 33

M – Nothing.

T – Grave digging

W – Sweaty evening ride. 20km 43min.

T – Borking lifts at 76kg R 66kg L as wrist continues to feel tweaky. Superset with bench press and managed a double at 70kg, then decided to go big at 77kg and failed miserably.

F – Packing

S – Travelling to Zurich, then on to Ravensburg. Tired to the point that the world went wobbly.

S – holiday.

In reply to Randy:

Hi everyone. Thanks for the kind comments, Randy.

Week 34:

An good week, partly due to some good climbing adventures, and partly due to relief that despite not doing any significant cardio in 2025, I've still got a bit of base fitness to hump a heavy bag around the hills.

M: Nothing -I seem to be developing a habit of writing my fit club post on Monday morning, but never managing to fit Monday's planned session in!

T: CARs, Prehab, Board. A really good board sesh, in which I managed to do a few fingery projects... maybe my finger strength is returning to winter levels?

W: Rest.

T: CARs, Prehab, Fingers. Tried to up the weight for my max hangs -couldn't complete my sets. It seems my finger strength is NOT returning to winter levels!

F: Driving. Lots of.

S: Walked in to Carn Mor (18km, 20kg bags). Pitched tents, brewed up, then got on Fionn Buttress (VS 5a). Managed to get up 11 pitches (with only some minor swearing at the midges and the rain) then back down to the tent (with only minor swearing at the guidebook 'description' of the descent) before dark... winner!

S: Balaton (E1 5b) into Gob (HVS 4c) -excellent stuff. Balaton is definitely one of the best multipitch routes I've ever done. Glad to lead the first pitch with minimal fuss, as it was quite antistyle. Bit of added excitement when my partner snapped a hold on the traverse, doing a backflip into space (and also pulling me off the belay into space -maybe I'll make more effort to tighten the ropes in future!). Third pitch was sensational. Gob was almost as good... well deserving of HR status. Less rain. More midges. 

Week 35:

M: Climbing.

T: Climbing.

W: Driving.

T: Rest.

F: CARs, Prehab, Board.

S: Rest.

S: CARs, Prehab, Fingers.

STG (End Sept):

Three E3s

Get on three E4s

LTG (Nov 2025):

40 E-points (TICK! 41/40)

Onsight E4.

In reply to Tom Green:

That sounds like a great time on Carn Mor, apart from the fall incident.

I had a similar incident many years ago where I was pulled off a ledge and my ropes are now sooooo tight on every belay. Glad it was OK.

Really interesting that fitness didn't feel an issue despite not much cardio.

In reply to biscuit:

Haha! The fall was less dramatic than it sounds… just a little extra spice for the route! The belay stance was such a small perch I think I’d have been pulled off whatever I did, but it certainly woke me up!

In reply to Randy:

Thanks Randy. I've never really been all that interested in Sport climbing though maybe I just haven't been trying hard enough to get on the harder grades where it starts to get a bit more interesting? Anyway, I still pretty much see it as a gateway to harder trad routes - if I can get to a level where 6c feels fairly comfortable, then I'll maybe feel a bit more confident on E2 and E3 terrain.

Last week was a bit of a bust due to work getting in the way of things, but I did have a good day in the Lakes on Monday.

Monday

Engineer's Slabs (VS 4c) with the original finish. Camped the previous night at Beck Head so was a nice short walk in which I think is definitely the key for these high mountain routes - especially when it avoids a long walk in in a heatwave. Great route, but unfortunately didn't have time for anything else.

Next Week

Repetition of last week - 

• 2x Gym Sessions
• 2x Trail run at least 12km
• 1 lead at E2 or above

Monthly Goals for Sept

• RP of Over the Hill (6c)
• Attempt of at least 2 other 6cs
• Long, Hilly Trail Run. At least 20km - maybe a Bob Graham section.