UKC

Hi All.

Another early post before heading out to enjoy the sunshine...

Some great 666 Goals -inspiring stuff, keep it coming!

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 4 

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_626-701993

Posters:

AJM -Great goals and I like your breakdown of areas that need most attention. It looks like success will come from finding the balance between fitness training and outdoor mileage. Bring on the good weather!

Tom Green -Good to have got the training mojo back. Time to get organised and maximise opportunities for mileage on rock.

Ianstevens -Congrats on the comp -sounds like a very solid performance. How was yesterday's trail half? (You're getting all competitive at the moment!) Less training and more fun sounds like a good attitude (especially as I'd predict that your 'less training' will still be decent maintenance). Your Thursday intervals look interesting. What rests do you put in between each run?

Lornajkelly -A solid week, especially with the running -it must be satisfying feeling the improvement there. How was the next week of the plan? Love the goal of climbing the height of K2 -I've a similar goal for my running height gain and I've got pictures of the mountains on the wall so I can mark off how high I'm getting (I'm such a child, but I find it quite motivating when I can't decide whether to go for a flat run or a hill run!)

Somerset Swede Basher -Toddler-weighted max hangs sound hilarious! I imagine that will be appearing on the Crimpd app any day now! Good 666 Goal -font 8A is a proper worthy number goal. Keep us posted when you get a shortlist of problems drawn up.

biscuit -Hope the revision and exam went ok? More importantly, did you get that WBL podium place? Enjoy the hols -it sounds like you've earned them. Is this holiday the Haute Route trip? If so, bon chance!

Alan Little -Loved the image of you listening to the Mark Twight Enormocast episode -I actually LOL'd as the kids would say! Great tactic with the pistol squats in the living room... making it easy and removing even the slightest faff is a great tip for not missing sessions (I also use it as an excuse not to tidy away my weights in the living room!) Have you got that bigger box yet?

guy127917 -Good work with the trail half. I always underestimate the effect of wind until I'm actually running in it! Hope the family stuff is settled and that you managed to get to the peak. Are your N Wales bouldering goals all at Parisellas? I did quite a lot of bouldering in Ogwen last year and was blown away by the quality of the rock and problems. Also, check out Porth Ysgo -absolutely dreamy bouldering, especially now you've got the second pad!

SFrancis -Good running chat in last week's Fit Club -hopefully it helped rather than confused the issue further?! I'm keen to see your plan for the new training cycle off the back of the running chat and your forthcoming lattice assessment. Congrats on the thin hands 'eureka' moment! I got spanked on Charming Crack (E2 5c) yesterday so have spent the morning following your lead and watching Wideboyz Crack School!

Planetmarshall -good work increasing the conditioning volume. Where are you up to with the leg now? Have you started scoping out Pabbay routes yet? The new SMC Outer Hebrides guide looks pretty good.

Ardo -So, with a week to go, have you got that 7a indoor tick yet? More importantly, have you managed to take advantage of the good(ish) weather this week and get outside? Looks like some solid shifts indoors and on the fingerboard. Whats your plan for the increased ARCing?

Powerpuff -Good to hear the training psych is high right now! And if your knocking out the V4s and 5s when your weak and ill, it sounds like you've a solid base to work from. How's the bike plan coming along?

the sheep -The Saltmarsh 75 does look good -thanks for the link. Glad to see you broke the week up with a rest and beer day! Well done for pushing through the hangover to get 20km done -maybe I should drink more to help my running distances?!

mattrm -Good to see those numbers staying up! Hope this week was equally productive. I'm intrigued to hear about the 2020 climbing plan (it's never too early to be cooking up a good climbing plan!) -but make sure you mix some fun stuff in to the training between now and then too. Maybe some mini-plans? Also, I've been meaning to ask forever... what is WFD?! 

alexm198 -Good self-awareness with the issue of training at the climbing wall -amusing psychology! Hang on in there with the Z1 volume -especially those indoor sessions (don't you have any hills that you can run laps on to let you drop one of the brain-melting stairmaster sessions?) Nice to see the Bob Graham on the to-do list -let me know if you want some support, as I'd be keen to run some legs.

Cyan -Sorry to hear the back's been playing up. It sounds painful and annoying in equal measure. INtersting that the steep bouldering doesn't set it off but the yoga does -do you think it is any particular body position or movement that triggers it? Perhaps you and Bones should get a joint appointment at the physio -it seems like you'd be able to give each other some moral support! 

Tyler -Glad to hear there's some one else who needs big holds on the steep boards! I've been doing a bit on the Moon Board recently but, frankly, it's just too bloody steep to be useful for my stick insect arms!

Bones -Glad you've got something to try that sounds more likely to help than Vit D! My first impression of those exercises was that it looked quite restful but, on further viewing, they seem a bit heinous. Any progress or a bit too early to tell? Also, what is a 'skin the cat'?! (I could google it, but I don't know what might come up!)

climb that pitch -Solid maintenance week. Looking forward to hearing about your Alpine Goals.

MIA: Ally, Rebecca Ting.

From a hang, pull through a (tucked, for us mortals) front lever position, to a full inversion, over to a back lever. And back again.

they are good for extending shoulder ROM and building strength in the delts, and easier than they sound (easier than either a front or back lever)... worth trying Tom.

We haven't done any bouldering in N Wales except the cave so will have to check out some other areas on next trip. Seems so far away now I have to work on Fridays

Mon: General bouldering session, not very inspiring performance to be honest

Tues: Z3ish run 45 mins

Weds: OK wave session- feel like I'm making progress on horrible RH pink pinch, and maybe on LH green. Apparently orange and pink spotty is a goer as well (can't pull on yet though...).  Did one set of 45s on 1/min off x3 campus ladders to start easing myself back into it.

Thursday: FB session- felt pretty bad and couldn't get near last week's numbers of 33mm 4 finger one armers. However did make some progress- the BM2K incut middle one arm -15kg, felt good on the 35 deg slopers, did some random pockets, and then retested the 15mm (?) small edges and hung +25kg for 10s (both arms), which I suspected was dubious in my benchmarking.

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Bouldering at Curbar, good fun on Trackside boulder (didn't try Trackside itself) and Bens Wall. Finished the day trying to do L'horla and realising how ridiculously unfit I have become. Ancap work and routes to add back into training pronto! 

Sunday: Gardoms- sent First Roof Middle which I think was my first outdoor 6C, and spent a bunch of time working on Marks Roof LH, which should go with another session. 

This week I need to get 3 runs in and get some fitness work started!

Thanks. At least it's my deliberate jokes that are funny not my training plans! Still on the little box, but touching my heel down further forward in a more pistol-like movement.

STG: Left leg pistol squat.
MTG (2019): Double digit 7's including Frankenjura 7b+ project 
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

M: Bike one hour.    
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes. Far stronger than the last couple of weeks. So deload weeks actually work? Astonishing.
W: Bike one hour - taking advantage of sudden spring weather to get outside a bit more.
T: Ditto plus road test of my old mountain bike - dug out of the cellar as an emergency substitute for my son's which was stolen
F: Bike again.
S: Zellerwand. Excellent second day outside of the year: getting some onsight mileage in, feeling like I'm moving better and am calmer above the bolt than I have been at this stage in previous years. I've been to this crag before but to other sectors; was much more impressed today. It is vast, with a grade range from beginners up to some very impressive looking low 8's. Only an hour from home, south facing, significantly more "modern" bolt spacing than most of the Frankenjura. I shall be spending more time here.
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. Not having done anything hard yesterday, I thought it would be a good idea to get some ancap-ish (hopefully) work in doing links on hard circuits.

Thanks Tom. 

Exam is on Tuesday and then i'm off to ski on Thursday.

I think the Depot boulder league ends whilst I am away so i'll have to wait and see. I've got much better at not making mistakes in comps now. I don't think i'm very strong atm. I'm looking forward to getting back to it next year already when I've had a decent time climbing and training.

I had a week getting over being ill this week. Two coaching sessions as well ate into any potential time, but the squad were amazing at a comp and i'm so proud of them.

What i'm saying is I didn't do much....

I had one boulder session where I felt quite weak and underpowered but I have got my diet and sleep and shoulder exercises back on track. These habits seem to fall away a lot quicker than they took to develop. However now they are habits they seem to come back with only a short effort. 

Thanks Tom, I'll let Tom and Ollie know they need to update their app again! Might work well, you get stronger as they get heavier. Let's hope my strength gains match his growth spurts

Mon. Attempted a max hang test session so I can actually do these properly. Failed on 2 levels. Firstly my smallest edge is 28mm so a bit big really. I also realised that I only have 22kgs of weights which I was reasonably comfortably hanging for 10secs. Did 8 hangs at +22kgs (I think I'm 67kgs). Will do a search of the basement for more weights this week. 

Tues. Works session on the easier woody. Managed up down up twice on each side using the better holds. Tried some other stuff. Not particularly structured but I was pretty goosed afterwards so must be good training! 

Wed. 20km on the road bike. 

Thurs. Lots of shoulder theraband stuff, some pressups (50ish) and wrist curls. 

Fri. The plan was to go to Higgar, quickly repeat Piss which I did a year ago, quickly repeat hemline which I did 7 years ago then put it all together to make Shit which I haven't done. The reality was that I couldn't remember any of my beta for either problem and it took me the whole session to repeat what I'd done before! 

Sat. Rest. 

Sun. Back to higgar in the evening but unfortunately arrived at the same time as the rain. Did 6 laps of Shit up to the final move but the slopers were too wet to get my feet up to top out. Good beta refining session but no tick. 

Cheers Tom. Which Moonboard are you using? I have a list of some doable 6b+ on the old style board, you can waste a lot of time on problems of that grade that are nothing of the sort.

Did nothing this week, work has been awful and I developed a cold. I bought some scaffolding to make some sort of training facility but I sort of over did it and I'm not sure the attic floor can take the weight of it all. The problem is, it's not the sort of thing you just pop back in the post but if it stays in the hall much longer I'm not sure I'll be allowed to stay!

In the absence of any training I'll update my goals, not least because I'm looking for partners (I've got 40 days holiday this year and very few active trad climbing partners). New goals:

Scottish routes, especially something on Shelterstone and a trip to Torridon

Anything from Parois de Legende

Mary Townley Loop (maybe Pennine Bridleway if that goes ok)

I'm going to stick with my 66 routes of 7a or above but I doubt I'll get anywhere near.

Good week, even though a bit short on Z1 time and skipped one core and strength session -need to work harder on juggling strength work outs with climbing to be fresh for both.

Week 12:

M: Dry tooling at White Goods (a bit random at the end of the season, but a good fun session!) Flashed an M7, worked a few other routes.

T: Indoor session at the Boardroom. Max hangs, limit bouldering, aerocap 50:50s.

W: Trail run. 45min Z1, 6.3km with 395m height gain, quite techy. Avg 7:00min/km. Felt hard on the ascents.

T: Core and Max Strength: Good progressions with core resistance. Max strength felt hard.

F: Rest (well, kind of... alpine start for work, then late night)

S: Climbing at Brimham. Day of antistyle routes, focussing on sustained cracks. All going well until Charming Crack (E2 5c) which taught me a few life lessons. How can a ten metre route be so bloody knackering?

S: Road run. 85min Z1, 14.7km, flat. Avg 5:45min/km. Felt good despite full body DOMS from yesterday's beasting.

Week 13 Plan:

3h Z1

2 Core sessions

2 Strength sessions

2 Climbing sessions

STG/Q2:

Average 300m vert running per week (Currently 435m)

Bowland run/climbathon

N Wales El Cap Day

Welsh 3000s

MTG/Q3:

Cuillin ridge traverse

Average 300m vert running per week

Some of: Salbit Westgrat, Piz Badile Cassin, Grand Montets ridge, Innominata, Cordier Pillar, etc...

666 Goals:

I've axed my 666m of Lancashire aretes, as it doesn't really fit in with the rest of my goals and would be quite time hungry. Need to come up with something else -maybe a goal to encourage me to keep working on anti-style routes.

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 10lbs

M - REst

T - 4 mile walk

W - Rest

T -"HiiT"

F - Rest

S - HiiT

S - "HiiT"

Jan overall - 41%

Feb overall - 25%

Mar so far - 54%

2019 - 39%

The 666 goals are simply, 6a, b and c.  Any grade (so sport or bouldering), eg 6A or 6a, it's all good.  Also no marks for style, so just get 'em done.  I should probably add loose 6 lbs in weight and run up Sugarloaf 6 times. 

Well the thing to train for this year is a scuba diving trip.  I've never done it and there's a company that do a try dive in an interesting part of Scapa Flow in Orkney, which is where the family holiday is going this year.  I've done all the archaeology and I said to myself if I go back there, I'm going to do that.  So basically a bit of weight loss and a lot of cardio (I'm asthmatic), i.e. swimming.

The thing for next year was to get back into climbing properly, get fit and head over to Orkney again to try the Old Man.  Or if not that, then some other sea stack stuff somewhere.  But I'll need a wodge of 'normal' climbing miles before that'll work.

Anyway, this week was fairly normal.  Prioritised getting the small stuff done and getting good sleep.  Running and climbing didn't happen, but there's always next week.  Averages are steadily ticking up.

WFD is Western Front Direct (7a), a local very nice 7a, which I've been trying on and off for a long time now.

Thanks Tom.

Busy week this week - post holiday faff and tidying, my wedding anniversary, and a weekend away for my mother's birthday.

So my key achievement was to get some progress made on holidays. Now booked Fairhead (early June; key ambition: everything!) and Morzine (August, family; key ambition: a few days sport climbing with MrsAJM) and have made progress on a city break in the autumn and on a long weekend to Montserrat (May/June; key ambition: Punsola-Reniu (6c+)).

Have a few free weekends coming up now so keen to get on with some training and get some outdoor miles in...

Using the Boardroom Moon Board -40' and the newest sets of holds (I think). I reckon I'm better off just choosing 'normal' problems for limit bouldering for now.

If you're looking for trad partners at any point through spring/summer then give us a shout. I'm always up for Lancs/Peak/Moorland grit (or other stuff!)

Thanks Tom, yes there was some very helpful insights in the running chat, and I will definitely be adding a longer run in to the mix. But after all the great running chat, I only managed to get out for one run, which was disappointing but was busy doing other stuff.

Last full week of strength training as part of the EH 3-2-1, and with the weather suddenly playing ball for paragliding and climbing it was hard to fit it all in. Also booked flights for a long weekend in Berdorf, for weekend straight after font, free accommodation, extremely cheap flights and some very psyched friends meant I couldn't really say no. I will slowly start ramping up the aerobic mileage after Easter, with more cycling added into the mix.    

Week 18/03-24/03

M: 30 min run and some stretching.

T: EH workout - 2 x 10 scapular pull ups, 6 x woody problems + a new problem from the v6+ set (probs v5+/soft V6), 4 x 7-53 (1/2 crimp) 99.9kg, 2 x 7-53 (open 3) 99.9kg, 6 x med rung ladders, 3x3 pull ups (95.1kg), hanging leg raises 3 x 10. Watched Statement of Youth, absolutely excellent very inspiring.

W: Aborted afternoon paragliding trip - too windy, so back to work. Gym session - bench 65kg 3x3, Deadlift 100kg 2 x 5, kept it a light session so headed to bouldering wall doing the new v4-v6 set from Gaz parry, did most of them, flashed a fair few. Felt really good, I think doing a gym session then bouldering straight away meant that no aches had set in. Noticed just a slight loss of core tension.   

T: Paragliding was back on. Not very windy, so all flights meant walking back up the hill with gear, Z1/Z2 based on breathing. Had planned run but was exhausted.

F: Peak looked cold but decided to chance it over Portland. Drove to mates.

S: Incredible weather at Stanage, and one of my fav days on grit so far. Lead Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b), The Right Unconquerable (HVS 5a), The Left Unconquerable (E1 5b) and Goliath's Groove (HVS 5a) (def not the warm down i wanted) all clean onsight, I've been luckily enough to never see anyone climb any of them,  including FBD which was actually quite intimidating trying to reach the first break (Crux?), but then ultimately easy once committed for someone who spent a lot of time in the bouldering wall. Followed the Eliminator (HVS 5b)(felt harder/reachier than when i did it last year), Queersville (HVS 5a) (short friend bailed into hollybush from below the reachy move) and Tower Crack (HVS 5b) (Friend cruised it, and I fell off. Felt very hard for HVS!?, possibly hardest route of the day for me). Beautifully sunny and still, wasn't a problem belaying on the top without a jacket.

S: Much windier headed to Millstone, climbed two of my nemesis routes from before I knew how to jam. Dexterity (E1 5b) and Bond Street (HVS 5a), First tried Dexterity a couple of years ago when the weekend before I had climbed 7a+ easily, and DNF it, still felt hard when the crack thinned but the hand crack part felt brilliant, and Bond street was an absolute joy. A massive contrast to when I climbed it last, contender for my fav route of the weekend. Really great sequence,found the jamming part painless and brilliant, then the sequence getting in to the niche awesome. Loved it. Felt knackered so retreated for a beer in the sun. Excellent weekend.

I guess the jamming practice has paid off as now a handjam does feel easily as good as a jug, and im not getting any pain, and I feel comfortable running it out, I feel secure. Perfect fist jams also feel very good, but thin hands a different story still hard, but thumbs down was the way to go, also its easy to change to a fingerlock if required. Would really like a long hand crack, not sure if there are any in the UK, may have to look into a trip further afield. Bondstreet/dexterity handcrack parts are just not long enough.   

Goals 25/03-31/03

Feeling a bit beat up after a weekend on the grit, its all physical climbing. Legs ache from walking with the pack as well, I guess its good training, possibly something that needs to be addressed before the summer, I've already got big legs so not really keen to start doing squats so need to think about this one.
This week I aim to start the PE phase, and try and get some running in. Feel a bit ill which isn't Ideal, so I will see how it goes,.

*1 x gym session
*2 x PE sessions
*2 x run
*Continue sleep/ diet focus.
*(1/2) x strength session - FB / woody focus.

In which case you really are missing out! Some fantastic problems about, especially in Ogwen and Ysgo as suggested above. Loads in the pass as well of course, but it's always rammed in sunnier times, especially at weekends. Tanygrisiau is worth a day (at least) of your time as well

Cheers Tom, not sure the hangover helped in any way. Unless you count it as a kind of resistance training, like running with a weighted vest on 

Steady week gone by that went as follows;

Monday, 2km lunchtime swim

Tuesday, 2km lunchtime swim and 6.5km run in the evening

Wednesday, 2km lunchtime swim and 9km run in the evening

Thursday, 2km lunchtime swim followed by stretch class

Friday, 17.5km run home from work

Weekend, Eldest was at a swim gala both days so I was looking after the little ones. No exercise but wouldn't say rest either 

Plenty of big single pitch hand cracks on Kilt Rock. Far afield but (currently) still in the UK

Bloody hell, what an amazing looking crag!!

I need to make it to Scotland this year for some rock climbing. I've tried previously to head a few times for a week, but its difficult to get the stars to align with the weather, its a long enough drive that I wanted to stay for more than a weekend and need to book time off in advance. It would be great to live close enough to drop everything when the weather is good! Scotland has to be one of the most beautiful places on earth.

I also think I need to get the Cuillin ridge out the way, before I go cragging on skye as I reckon it would be playing on my mind the whole time that I really should be getting that done. 

Afternoon Tom, thanks again for doing the stats. An acutely floppy week for me, due to a combination of lurgy and fatigue. Decided to listen to my body and ease off a bit.

Sadly a complete lack of hills in London. I keep meaning to make the effort to get out to Surrey or the south coast to do some actual outdoor running, but the closest I've got to date is Richmond Park! Stairmaster is better than nowt, I suppose.

Thanks for the offer of support. I don't think we'll need too much support as we're not doing it in a proper 24h round, but rather OMM-style, over two days with a lightweight bivi somewhere. Psychological support always welcome if you fancied joining for a bit though!

Last Week (Base Week 17/30)

M: Rest (lurgy)

T: Feeling a bit better so went for a 45min Z3 run. Terrible idea with the remnants of lurgy. Really put me on my ass. 

W: Rest (lurgy)

T: Rest (lurgy)

F: Rest (lurgy). Decided late in the evening I should go for a quick wall session, so did some easy bouldering and some circuit board work: 4 laps (96 moves), 4 laps (96 moves), 3 laps (72 moves). 2h30 total. Felt pretty weak after being so sedentary this week. 

S: Rest, feeling slightly better...

S: 2h morning session at The Arch. FB warmup 3x7s/3s bodyweight repeaters on middle edge (4 fingers, front 3, back 3), 20° slopers, big 2-finger pockets (middle 2, then front 2 individually with other hand in the deep central slot). Then just pottered about with a friend trying stuff. Only managed up to V4. 

Easy to see in hindsight that I should've eased off the gas a lot sooner. At the end of last week I was really psyched to get stuck back into training as I'd just done two weeks of building back up to pre-trip training volume and was rearing to go. So I think I was slightly in denial about getting sick. Lesson learnt, just take the time off. Scott Semple wrote an interesting (but, I also thought, faintly ridiculous) article recently about the virtues of being a complete germophobe if you're serious about training: https://www.uphillathlete.com/avoid-sick-illness-training-healthy/. At the time I laughed it off, but I'm not laughing now.

Last week's goals:

Binned 'em all. 

Goals:

This Week

Off to the Alps on Wednesday evening for a long weekend, so I'm going to keep things chilled this week, easing back in with the intention of getting back up to volume next week.

• 7h Z1 volume (inc. alpine approaches)
• 1x muscular endurance workout (3 times through the circuit)

STG (End of April 2019)

• [Rolling average: 2.6...] Average 8.5h Z1 across the 7 weeks between now and end of April
• [Current: 3] Build up to 5 times through the muscular endurance circuit
• [Current: 0] 2 alpine lines >700m (not necessarily rock)
• [Current: 0] 1 alpine rock lines >700m >6b in preparation for Bugaboos (might be touch and go with conditions this early)

MTG (End of July 2019)

• 2 more alpine rock lines >700m >6b in preparation for Bugaboos 
• All Along the Watchtower (5.12a)
• Bob Graham round (probably over two days)

LTG (End of September 2019)

• 6x5000m peaks on the Bezengi wall, Caucasus.

On crack climbing: Tower Crack is hard for the grade, Charming Crack is even harder! I think I tried it in the same summer I did Gates of Mordor (E3 5c), which is much easier. 

Fairhead is amazing, is in the UK and has the long cracks you are looking for. Easily the most American-style climbing we have.

I like the look of Gates of Mordor, not heard of that before, now firmly on the wishlist.

Fairhead is definitely on the radar!

Been out the loop for a while...

...the trip to El Chorro was the end of a training cycle, though the weeks leading up to it weren't particularly well planned. The holiday in Cuba was the obvious point to have some R&R before re-grouping for more training/ticking.

FC666 challenge - these were never firm goals, but the only ones I wrote down:

- devil by name; 2x new routes I've bolted at  Pantymwyn (Devil's Gorge) - (TICK: 1/2) already climbed El Regalo del Diablo (8b)

- devil of a bugbear - Rock Atrocity (f7C) - TICK

- devilishly antagonistic - press a skinny sports climber over head (60kg OHP?) - Still a long way off

- devilishly optimistic; 8c+ (gulp!) - ditto

UKC FC Week 625

M-T: Way too much work; easily fitted a week's worth of hours into 4 days. 1 solitary and feeble attempt at some 1-armed hangs.

F: Travel

UKC FC Week 626

S-S: Varadero, Cienfuegos, Trinidad (2x pull-up/front-lever progression sessions in AirBnB accommodation), Bay of Pigs (2x 45min scuba dives), Havana, La Terraza (9km trek)

UKC FC Week 627

M-S: Vinales (12 & 8km treks), Mil Cumbre (20km/700m ascent & 12km treks), Havana (15 & 10km(?) urban walking), Playa Jibocoa (all inclusive resort = short gym session (300lb DL; how?) & massive food n' booze indulgence), then travel home

Currently suffering with a virus picked up in the last resort or whilst travelling home; bouts of heavy nausea and light headedness. Walking up stairs is a significant challenge; I doubt there will be anything to report next week either.

Hey Tom,

I'm aiming to pick the bike up this week, all being well.

Only climbed on Monday, as was on a family holiday after that, just arrived back. Not much chance to exercise on holiday and consumed too much food and booze but good to spend time with the family.

Mon:climbing wall, climbed three v4's, and one v5. 3 sets of 20 push ups and sit ups. 3 sets of 10 eccentric wrist curls and leg raises. Shoulder theraband exercises.

Cheers Tom, I was pleasantly surprised with the comp results, despite low expectations. The trail half on Saturday was similar. I didn't feel amazing beforehand, and didn't really have any expectations... however, I spent the entire race in 2nd/3rd (having a catch up for most of it) but didn't quite have the kick at the last 2k so came home in 3rd. Best proper race result in a very long time however (I probably need to look back to my early teens for the last time I got on a podium) so needless to say, quite happy! 

Hadn't planned it, but it has gone that way. I do enjoy a bit of friendly competition...

Thanks for the faith on the "less training" thing. It just seems like an easier way to make the most of my trip, as I won't feel guilt that I should be climbing/running when I'm doing the other. Should also caveat that I have 10 days of pretty full on work as part of it, so I expect it will be some squeezed in training during that time.

Thursday intervals were again a club session. 1 minute rests inbetween efforts, and was ready to hurl at the end! Excellent session though. Done on a residential loop that's basically a track, aside from the surface of course.

Goals

STG: 1) Max hangs on the AA slot to 96kg total by 30/03; 2) 7 x 7a routes by 31/04; 3) Complete planned sessions to end of March (27/27 so far); 4) Feel like I've run well at Nant yr Arain (YES) and Lake Hayes trail halfs (23/3 and 19/4); 5) Weight to 70.5kg by 01/05 (current 72.3).

MTGs: 1) 100kg on the AA slot by 01/06; 2) Parkrun PB by 01/06; 3) Cadair Fell Race PB (currently 1:44:08); 4) Find a 7c project for the summer (Orme or Quarries probably).

LTG: 1) Do the project (see MTGs); 2) Under 7.5 hours in Snowdon Skyline (Sept).

Last Week (2019.12)

Monday: 1) Yoga [big drive across the country]; 2) Big Rock social bouldering session, problems <7A. Still a bit gassed from the comp.

Tuesday: 1) Core: Crimpd static holds and floor core

Wednesday: [big drive back across the country]; 1) Indoor climbing, warmed up, felt tired, went home and went to sleep.

Thursday: 1) Yoga; 2) 90% hangs (AA slot) 6 x 10 secs @ 85.9kg; 3) Social run 14.2km, 58m.

Friday: 1) Yoga; 2) 90% hangs (AA slot) 6 x 10 secs @ 86.4kg

Saturday: 1) Yoga; 2) Half Marathon above, 21.1km, 555m off road in 1:40:23.

Sunday: 1) Easy stuff at  Trevor Quarry <6b, mainly 5 and below. 8 routes total, obviously a bit tired; 2) Crimpd Press (12.5kg) and row (25kg).

In summary, not the best training week but a) managed all my sessions and b) put in a good performance Saturday which is what its all about really

Next Week (2019.13)

Going to try and get outside to climb as much as possible - couple of days max however. Also due a max hang assessment as per STGs. I always try to get the Strava elevation running challenges done, and I'm a bit short, so may have to get out for a run in the hills as well. Flying Saturday evening, and driving to the home counties after work Friday, so will be a couple of limits to getting sessions done, but I've got a plan and should be able to get 8 out of 9 in. Might miss a couple of weeks whilst away, but will try and keep on it! If not I'll do a mega-post on my return. 

If you ever need/want partners for North Wales, I'm always keen for 7s/trying harder so feel free to get in touch! Can often get out mid-week as well as weekends.

the geography may be challenging, but I am also keen on trad this year...

Another potential volunteer: I might be interested in getting a few days in Wales or the South West in when I'm over in August visiting family. (If I'm still allowed in!)

Depending on what you want to get on from Parois de Legende, I might be keen to partner up! 

Not a FC regular but widening my circle of partners is good. This includes Andy and Alan too! Keen for some trad this year and may be free for some midweek action in August.

Sean, I've been meaning to get in touch about Westway! Will shoot you a message later.

I’m stuck in manc mid week mid May to mid June. Lancs quarries of an eve? 

Thanks for stat-ting Tom.

No 7a indoor yet, so will have a shot one night this week. Got the outdoor climbing ticked: nothing from goals or wishlist, but good to be out on rock. Normally just use continuous up/down a/belay routes for a set time as ARC training, though the Lattice Board pyramids seem to be working well. Need to work out exactly what I'm training with this, as it's too pumpy for ARC, but not hard enough for power. It may need some reading on an/aer and cap/pow.

Mo:    General walking, 8.2 miles. 12 probs; MH: 4*12/180; IDH: 4*4*10:10/60; LB pyramid: 12321/90"; LB laps 4 laps, 3 moves.

Tu:    General walking, 10.8 miles.

We:    General walking, 10.0, miles.

Th:    General walking, 8.8 miles. 10 probs; MH: 4*12/180; IDH: 5*4*10:10/60; 4 lead routes.

Fr:    General walking, 9.1 miles. 6 trad routes

Sa:    General walking, 9.7 miles.

Su:    General walking, 7.4 miles. 5 trad routes

Weight: 10st 4lb/bf 15.4%

Good training on Monday and Thursday, plus two trad sessions. Only one walk to and from pub this week, though again it had a noticeable effect on weight and bf!

Part climb, part train, part rest week planned, as taking advantage of the Mothers day visiting required to be a good son.

Places I can day trip to (avon/cheddar/Portland/swanage really) are a lo easier than weekend venues, but keen to get out - just give me a shout...

Edit: in general, if there's any interest in a "FC trad email group" then I'm happy to coordinate starting one off - if you're interested then shout up and if I don't have it already send me an email address to use...

I've got 6 months holiday starting in June, so drop me a line if you fancy a road trip or need a 'Peaks' partner.

(I think I got away with It.... I mean we all know on this thread that I'm joking, don't we?)

Did you get it clean in the end?

Got on it Sunday, ass handed to me on a plate and an unnerving desire to go back and try it again. I'm not quite sure what this days about my personality!

Just to say I exist. Lots going on, will be cutting my big April trip but still hoping to get away. ..

FC Trad email group sounds good! 

Nope. Not even close! 

I basically went through the 'Five Stages of Grief'...

Denial: "ok, I've got the measure of this now, it'll go after a rest"

Anger: "why the hell am I getting spat off this, it's not even that steep?"

Bargaining: "I'll give you some more skin and blood if you just let me pull in to the f-ing niche"

Depression: "I should probably give up climbing if I can't climb a ten metre 5c crack"

Acceptance: "every journey begins with a single fist jam"

Sign me up to a trad list

Sounds good. Yhm! 

Thanks all for the offers of trad partners, looks like I've no excuse but to dust off my rack - ulp!

Going to put some long weekends in the diary this week for Scotland if anyone is interested?

I've done lots in Wales but as my parents live over there I might be up for the odd day.

Biscuit - maybe we should make a set day each week for a quarries trip, especially been on Heptonstall but Wiltons also good.

I share your pain, figuratively and literally.

Awesome route though! Saturday is long enough ago that I've already forgotten how heinous it was and am psyched to get back for the rematch. Classic climbing amnesia!

Count me in.  Just to note, if you are unfortunate enough to come climbing with me at the moment, you might have to drop your grade a bit.  But I am a passable belayer, honest.

No point in me signing up as a permanent member when I'm only in the UK for a couple of weeks a year. I'll report for duty nearer the time when I know what my summer plans look like - likely to be mid August

The exercises themselves are fine but they gave me quite a sore neck for a few days. Seems to be improving now and I can hear some slight clicking and grinding so must be good right?!

Skin the cats are a front lever progress exercise which starts with your body up in the air and head hanging down on rings or similar and you spin your body (in control) all the way over one way pointing your legs straight and then pull back and spin the other way. Very hard to explain in text. I think I was actually skinning kittens which is where you do a similar thing but your legs are tucked right in and you only get your back horizontal to the ground each side. Much easier. I'll put up my attempt in next weeks post.

Mon: Very short run which set my neck off for the rest of the day. Then bouldering - did the grey in the pen from the previous day and also the V5/V6 overhanging orange in the pen

Tues: rest

Weds: Gym - further front lever improvement. More controlled tuck movements on the skinning kittens. Climbing, unfortunately, I can't remember this session. Serves me right for leaving it until Weds eve the following week to write my post.

Thurs: Bouldering - flashed 2 x V5/V6 and got a thin V5 after a couple goes. Well on the way to two more V5/V6 circuit problem. Both in the loft. One powerful overhanging route and another reachy one. Back to a solid 5 moves on the pink wave problem.

Fri: Gym session, still showing more strength in the front levers and starting to show my shoulder problems again. Need to concentrate on stretching these out and keeping my shoulders back during exercises.

Sat/Sun: Wrecked my fingers again in the Peak at Curbar and Gardoms. The bouldering is just so good that I can't stop and my hands hurt. Improvement from the last time at Gardoms but no cigar.

I'm in. Be well up for some trad action

Just sent you a mail

Thanks for doing the stats Tom. Another great job

Unfortunately due to circumstances my alpine trip this year is going out of the window

So time to focus on pushing the trad grade. I will have a think over the next few days and on next weeks update put in a load of routes I would like to get done.

M - Indoor Bouldering up to v4

T - Rest

W - This was a planed rest day but went indoor climbing, routes up to 6c

T - Run, 67.8km, 2740m accent, 9:33 min per km. I had a day off work so decided to go and run a ultra around the Brecon beacons. I learnt that forgetting chlorine tablets is a bad thing and sour cream pringles are a god send.

F - Rest

S - Rest

S - AM - Indoor bouldering

     PM - Run, 10km, 300m accent, 5:45 min per km

Lee

Thanks for stats Tom.

Easy week to report!

Mon-Fri: Ill

Sat: Bamford. Led up to VS (Gargoyle Flake, great) and seconded up to E1.

Sun: Rivelin. Led Scarlett's Chimney (VS) and seconded Left Edge and Croton Oil.

Lovely weekend. More trad soon (Andy, I'm keen for trad club, please add me to the email list!).

A bit more human this week and have actually been to the wall.

Trying to pull that list together now - could you re-send me an email - I'm sure I should have it but computer is saying no...