Whilst there are many 'great' grades in Pembroke, E1 has to be one of them. Once you enter the extremes not only does the number of routes you can climb increase dramatically, but so too does the quality, with some of the best E1s that the UK has to offer.
Here we've outlined five classics, which will be familiar to many. We've then listed five more, which are a little more esoteric, but equally worthwhile.
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'The Classics'
The guidebook description for Rock Idol begins "The best E1 in Britain? Possibly!" - and it's not wrong. It goes up terrain that doesn't just look unlikely at the grade, it looks impossible; however,as soon you set off you start to see how it could be possible given the size of the holds, which are accurately described as "some of the biggest holds in the universe", and they need to be given the steepness of the route!! As if that weren't enough to cement its classic status there's another element and that's the fact that many of the holds you're hanging on to have threads which you can use to protect the route. I think I carried a dozen slings when I last did it and I placed every single one of them!!
When viewed from the side Lucky Strike looks blank and if you do happen to arrive at a time when someone is on it looks really unlikely. Thankfully, like so many other routes in Pembroke, it's actually adorned with a decent set of holds - it's just that you only see them once you're close-up.
Heart of Darkness/New Morning (E1 5b)
One of the best things about climbing on sea cliffs is the exposure - and Heart of Darkness has exposure aplenty. Traversing out feels absolutely wild, not least because your belayed is out of sight, so you feel completely on your own. You're also hemmed in between roofs, so there's only one way to go - and that's sideways (unless you fancy doing an E5/6). Once you reach the safety of the belay you get to soak up the atmosphere whilst your second relives your experience, before starting off on the equally superb - but greatly contrasting - line of New Morning, which follows a stunning crack line to the top of the crag.
Cool for Cats (E1 5b) / Manzoku (E1 5b)
Whilst these two maybe lack the character of the others within the list, they are extremely popular as a result of their accessibility. There's no need to abseil in, or check the tides, because they're located on a non-tidal ledge that you're able to scramble down to. The routes themselves typify Pembroke, being steep, but featuring good holds - hence it's just a case of being able to hang on.
St Govan's is one of the first areas people tend to visit in Pembroke, probably as a result of its proximity to the car park. As a result of this, The Arrow is an extremely popular route, tackling an aesthetic flakeline in the otherwise blank face. In spite of its popularity it's one to take care on, particularly above the break, which has been the scene of several accidents.
'The Others'
Pembroke is full of unlikely looking routes, but few look as unlikely as Wishful Thinking. It features a massive roof, which looks like it should be about E7, but thankfully isn't. The holds are huge when you're hauling on them, mid way through the roof, be sure to spend a moment to look down and lap up the exposure, because it's absolutely immense!
Penally deserves more attention than it gets and Magic Flute is reason enough to head over there and check it out. It's not every day that you get to climb/wriggle/slither up into a tube feature within the rock and for that reason alone, it's worth doing, but the rest of it is highly enjoyable too, with interesting and unusual holds.
Mad Hatter's Tea Party (E1 5a)
It's fair to say that Stack Rocks isn't the most popular area in Pembrokeshire. As a result, you're unlikely to see many - or any - other climbers around here, unless you pick a particularly busy bank holiday weekend. Mad Hatter's Tea Party is a very steep route with very big holds - something which is probably becoming a familiar theme throughout this article. Whilst you're in the area be sure to have a look around The Cauldron, which is a really impressive feature worthy of exploration.
Huntsman's Leap is an intimidating, but alluring place to climb. It's definitely got an intimidation factor, and feels like a committing place to climb, but once you abseil in it's much like any other (if anything, it can be eerily calm and quiet). Shape Up is the easiest route out, so feels quite committing, but is worth committing to - if only to get a glimpse of what it's like to climb in the Leap. It's a memorable route in more ways than one as a result of this.
There's been several themes throughout this list and one of them is how unlikely some of the routes are. Sealhunt is a good example of this, with one logbook entry saying "not obvious where to go at all and requires faith in what's above". Once you enter the groove it feels like the world drops away underneath you, with both your ropes, gear and belayer disappearing into the distance below, out of sight (and possibly hearing range).
Guidebook
Pembroke and Gower Trad
A huge book covering nearly 2100 routes on the coastal crags of southwest Wales. The main section covers the magnificent cliffs of Pembrokeshire from the North Coast slabs and walls, through the superb Range East and on to Mowing Word, Stackpole and the Lydstep and Penally areas. Added to this is the beautiful cliffs of Gower and the impressive crags of Ogmore and Box Bay.
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Comments
I appear to have done them all!
These are all great routes although do I question if climbs like The Arrow and Cool For Cats need any more puffing. Good to see Scoop Wall and Madman’s Point featured, catching up with the Wired guidebook at last!
As all right-thinking people know, the goldilocks quality is two stars: expectations are not excessive, the route won't be worn-out, and you're unlikely to need to queue. Here are some other good south Pembroke E1s - only a pedant would point out there is nothing north of Milford Haven - that are more than 20 minutes from a car park:
Stackpole Cracks (E1 5b): Rockfax gives this one star and it has had only 28 logbook records since 1972. It’s steep, well-protected and really really good.
Calisto (E1 5b): A very soft E1, going on VS if you're tall, but not a wire-every-5’ route. The ‘Wind’ routes on the same crag are well worth doing too. St Govan’s East is only just 20 minutes saunter from the parking, so could be a good choice on a cold morning.
Snozwanger (E1 5b) or Blowin' in the Wind (E1 5b). Up a lovely arete, not too hard. Not usually bird-banned (check the RAD) and out of the firing areas.
Go Slo (E1 5b) and others on the east face of Mowing Word. A good venue to have in mind if it’s a hot afternoon.
Run Wild (E1 5b) on Buckspool Down. A gymnastic overhand followed by an unlikely looking slab. Would have been a shock when it was HVS for anyone expecting a Pembroke soft-touch. Non-tidal and sheltered from the worst of a big sea (check before you abseil).
Happy to oblige!
Shiraz (E1 5b)
Sinecure (E1 5b)
… and actually one that should probably be E1 and is easily good enough -
The Pear (HVS 5b)
Thanks for the recommendations some I've done some of those, some were on my radar already but added the others to the list.
There is no denying the very best classics often deliver but I think this can be a good strategy particularly on busy weekends especially as 2 stars in Pembroke is often equivalent to 3 stars in many other areas of the UK. On that note here are a few other recommendations from myself:
Ace in the Hole (E1 5b) is really good, in a lovely setting, I did it at near high tide but with a much carmer sea than the photo in the definitive guidebook.
Good Luck, Mr Gronski (E1 5b) (next to lucky strike) with hero jugs is brilliant should be anyone's hitlist.
Barad (E1 5b) got to have something in the north and this a great little adventure.
Bloody Brilliant (E1 5b), a lovely rising traverse in a hidden but accessible zawn full of lesser known routes including Bohemian Bubblebath (HVS 4c) & Blond Bombshell (E2 5b) which are likely to be popular classic in the future. The zawn is a short walk from Scoop Wall (with Magic Flute included in the article and the incredible Mutley (E3 5c) for the E3 leader) but many of the routes are non tidal. Basic topo on ukc and route descriptions in the free online supplement on the CC website. Normally accessible and bird free when there are restriction on the Castlemartin range.
If there are too long ques for Rock idol but you have grades in hand pop round the corner for an amazing jug fest on Amazon (E3 5c) or cool jamming and jugs The Rip (E2 5b) best started from the reef at low tide, or have a fun time on Lydstep Point Maze (HVS 4c)
If heading for the classic E1 B-Team Buttress (E1 5b) the nearby Malice Afterthought (HVS 5a) makes a great warmup and the amazing Startruck (E1 5a) at the nearby Blockhouse buttress must be one of the biggest roof you can get at the grade.
Anyway am looking forward to seeing the new Rockfax guide and probably seeing some good photos and new perspective on some areas to inspire another trip. The sample pages look great : https://rockfax.com/climbing-guides/books/pembroke-and-gower-trad/
Wishful Thinking should surely be on the official top 5 list! That said, good as the Pembroke E1s are, they aren’t a patch on some of the routes at E2 and above…
I deliberated this, but knew that if I hadn't included them then their omission would also be remarked upon. You're also coming at this article from a different perspective than someone who's new to the area. I was acutely aware I could write a list of a whole load of E1s that sit at the more adventurous and esoteric end of the spectrum, which would likely appeal to experienced enthusiasts, but be a bit weird for those who've never been before. What I've tried to do is strike a bit of a balance between the two, then leave the Forums to do what they do best and suggest a whole load of extras.