There are a wealth of classic E2s in Pembroke, so much so that it's hard to know where to begin. Here we have outlined five 'classics' alongside five 'others'. There are some that are steep, some that are slightly less steep, and some that are just plain weird. As is often the case, it's not just the routes themselves that are special here, but also the cliffs within which they're located. Places like Huntsman's Leap, Stackpole, and Mother Carey's are up there with the very best that the UK has to offer. 

'The Classics'

Deep Space (E2 5b)

A major part of what makes Pembroke so special is the fact that many of its routes go through terrain that is not just unlikely - but completely implausible. Deep Space starts within the confines of the huge cave/chimney/arch. The beginning looks blank, but yields a remarkable number of holds - and an even more remarkable number of threads. Due to the way in which you move sideways throughout that first pitch, and the way that the cliff cuts away underneath, the belay at the end feels pretty exposed. 

As you look up towards the second pitch you're left wondering how on earth you're going to get across the massive roof that lies above. Have faith, because there are holds, and once you're above it remember to look backwards, because you can bridge across the zawn, which is comforting in some ways and not in others, as the exposure is out of this world…

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Brazen Buttress (E2 5b)

Compared to Deep Space, Brazen Buttress is positively conventional, but that's not to say that it's boring. It features sustained and technical climbing throughout, without much (any?!) let up. It's one of those routes where there's no single move that's completely desperate, but neither are there many moves that are easy. It keeps coming, and coming, and coming - until you're sat on the top, sweating!

Silver Shadow (E2 5b)

Silver Shadow is the complete trad package, insofar as it requires a broad skillset - in terms of the climbing, judgement, and commitment. Before you even step foot on the route you've got to take into account the tides and how quickly you think that you can climb its first pitch. Stackpole has a relatively narrow tidal window, which - if timed right - isn't a problem. Timed wrong, it's likely you're going to get very, very wet (or worse). It's certainly not a crag for the inexperienced or faint hearted. Suffice to say that at Stackpole, the crag has the psychological upper hand.

If that weren't enough, the climbing style is forthright, steep, and intimidating. It feels totally out there for the grade, and is very much at the top of the grade too. However, if you do make it to the top, I can guarantee you'll have had one of the best E2 climbing experiences that Pembroke has to offer.

The Honey Monster (E2 5b)

Huntman's Leap is an outrageous geological feature and climbing anywhere within it feels pretty wild, but nowhere does it feel more wild than the seaward end. This is where it's at its narrowest, and you really feel the walls towering over you, looming above. It's noticeably darker, and the sound is different too, not least because you're a whole lot closer to the sea, so the sound of the swell is your constant companion.

As a result of its location deep within the Leap, Honey Monster has some truly incredible positions and atmosphere in abundance. It's well protected too, with plenty of threads, and a brilliant belay.

Deranged (E2 5b)

St. Govan's is the most popular area in Pembroke. Accessibility plays a part in this, not just in terms of proximity to the car park, but also in terms of the vast majority of routes being non-tidal. This is especially helpful given that the vast majority within this list are at the mercy of the seas, so it's good to have a few non-tidal options tucked up your sleeve. 

When it comes to what Deranged is like, I distinctly remember it being steady right up until the point it wasn't. One minute your romping along, enjoying the scenery, and the next you're really having to concentrate!! Turn on the turbo-thrusters for a few moves (preferably in an upwards direction) and you'll soon find yourself through the crux and onwards to the top of a truly brilliant route.

'The Others'

Preposterous Tales (E2 5b)

I was unsure whether to include this route, as it has been the scene of several accidents over the years, so before I begin writing about it I'll say this: approach with extreme caution. If the seas are running high, avoid. If you lack the relevant experience, avoid. If you dislike unconventional climbing: avoid. If you don't like going sideways: avoid. If you like daylight, avoid.

Now that those caveats are out the way, what you're left with is probably Pembroke's weirdest route. I remember, many years ago, walking over the top of Bosherton Head, some way out from the cliff, and my climbing partner stopping, pointing at a hole in the ground, and informing me that this was where Proposterous Tales comes out. Given that we were some way back from the cliff edge, it seemed hard to imagine how anything could burrow so far underground. In addition to that, looking down into the darkness, it seemed even harder to imagine anything actually climbing out of there!

The route itself requires faith in what lies above. It's unlikely from the moment you enter the sea cave. It's dark, really dark, and the terrain you're crossing is highly unusual - and often highly damp, adding to the difficulty. 

Chimes of Freedom (E2 5b)

Mowing Word has a whole bunch of brilliant routes, so much so that we included two within our E1 article - Heart of Darkness/New Morning and Sealhunt - and this is the first of the E2s we're going to include within this.

Chimes of Freedom takes a long, weaving line. It's incredibly varied too, with different styles of climbing from slabby through to steep, corner to crack. It there were to be a caveat to its quality it's that in recent years there have been reports of loose blocks, so take care to avoid these - and stay safe.

Charenton Crack (E2 5b)

The second of our two Mowing Word routes is actually on the opposite side of the crag, which feels like (and to an extent is) a completely different crag. It has the benefit of being non-tidal too and receives the morning sun. Unlike Chimes of Freedom, which is varied, Charenton Crack is quite single-minded in comparison, insofar as its focus is firmly on the crack, which proves - for many - to be quite a struggle!! You only need to have a quick glance at the logbooks to see most of them refer to its being both hard and pumpy. On the bright side, the gear is good, but be prepared for a bit of a battle!!

First Blood (E2 5c)

Considering how popular St. Govans is, it never ceases to amaze me how unpopular St. Govans East is in comparison. It's a useful crag too, not least because of its aspect. It gets morning sun, which is a rarity amongst Pembroke's crags. This makes it useful for either sunshine or shade (depending on what you're looking for) and can also make a great choice when there's a wild westerly blowing, as it offers shelter. It's also relatively unaffected by the tide (some routes are, but a lot aren't), which removes the hassle factor of having to worry about whether you can access the routes.

First Blood is quite a punchy route. At the beginning it tries to lull you into a false sense of security, with huge holds, but they soon disappear, only to be replaced by a thin crackline, which is what provides the majority of the route's 'interest'. It's not necessarily one that's high in the grade, but it definitely sits at the top end of the 5c spectrum.

The Strait Gate (E2 5b)

I make no apology of including a third route from Mother Carey's, because yes - it's that good. In fact, I can't think of a better crag at the crag within the whole of Pembrokeshire. Even within the UK you'd be hard pressed to find a better trio than Deep Space, Brazen Buttress and Strait Gate!

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Guidebook

Pembroke and Gower Trad

A huge book covering nearly 2100 routes on the coastal crags of southwest Wales. The main section covers the magnificent cliffs of Pembrokeshire from the North Coast slabs and walls, through the superb Range East and on to Mowing Word, Stackpole and the Lydstep and Penally areas. Added to this is the beautiful cliffs of Gower and the impressive crags of Ogmore and Box Bay.

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