In reply to Dandan:
A bit like AJM, I’ve had a mixed week; some good, some bad, and some injuries.
Current list of maladies: re-tweaked L ring finger (felt a little click when RP’ing on Tuesday night), R shoulder infraspinatus inflamed & R ring finger bruised.
Need to listen to physio Matt – take some real rest before commencing shoulder rehab this week. Rest will be no bad thing as it’ll be too hot to get anything done anyway?
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- Some hard sport multi-pitch; Taghia maybe, Naranja de Bulnes, “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum?
- True North, Kilnsey – front on board style on crimps is too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+),
Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe C2C or MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP options:
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
- Climb f8a on gear – Point Bank in Pembroke?
- Climb a 5.13 crack, Last of the Bohicans (13d) and Transworld Depravity (14a) in the Red. Visit the NRG.
- need to train climbing board style/open on slopey crimps – eek – bit of a weakness; at least I know about it in advance now!
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
MTG (May/June/July):
- Increase An-cap
- Get stronger without aggravating injuries
- Get back on the Orme project.
- 8a+/b’s
-
if finger plays ball: Well Done finish, Straight jacket, & Waddage
-
if shoulder plays ball, but finger still tweaky: Mecca Traverse, Mandela & Guns in the sky (if they dry out!)
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- Icing and rehab every day for finger and shoulder.
- Front2 fingerboarding
- Do some core (kneebar sit-ups!), antag and bicep curls
- Get back out on the MTB
Last week:
M - Woke up at 5am, so did some fingerboarding before work (1 + 2.5kg, 5 sets; 18,15,13,11,9 pull-ups).
T - Raven Tor after work. Work/RP’s on Sympathy in Chimes. Best go falling on long move of Chimes. Quick play on Mecca Traverse again and did a 7A+ sit start to Saline Drip. R shoulder sore, finger tweak making itself heard too; time for some rest!
W - Rest – 17km MTB mixed path/road ride. Bike was stuck in 3 gears only and my legs and lungs burned on anything remotely uphill.
T - Malham after work. Still, humid & midgey. 6a+, 6c+ & 7a warm-ups. Ring finger definitely not playing ball on Cry Freedom; gave up and boned the crimp front2 and did the move I was struggling on! Did the entry to the 1st crux, but getting out of those moves was a real struggle. Lead through the top groove; post 1st crux to kneebar pre 2nd crux – the only progress as too greasy to have a proper bash at either crux.
F - Rest; DIY & gloss painting
S - Malham; back on Cry Freedom. 6c+ & 7a warm-ups. So much grippier than Thursday, and trying it with someone else gave multiple new beta options. 3 tie-ins on CF. Did floor to bolt 4 and linked 1st crux in 2 bits; still struggle with exit move and clip. Lead through the top groove again and held big move to crimp in 2nd crux. Found perfect finger position for 2nd crux and did it 2 times on the trot. Burst blood vessel in R ring finger on last go. 7a warm-down. Good progress, but injuries grumbling
S - Rest – shoulder grumbling whilst painting – tennis ball self-massage. 33km road ride including a cheeky KOM doing a MTB trail CX style!