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Evening FitClubbers!
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=644010
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641125
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Tyler - Well done on the 7b+ 3rd go
SidH - Eastwood sounds like it's getting very close, but a break might be good. I'm feeling the same way about Aberration.
AJM - Sounds like your training is going well and you still have time for improvements before August.
Hms - It sounds like your getting some good climbing amid your stressful week. Hope things become more settled.
Biscuit - Hope the 8a project goes well.
Dandan- Sounds like a mammoth day on Portland. No wonder you were tired.
Ally Smith - well done on the Yoga. I hope things go well on MWAG.
heelhookforglory - I agree about feeling better mixing training with climbing, it's much more fun that way.
humptydumpty - conglomerate offwidths? I can see why it's hard to find a partner
Ian Bell - did you manage to get out at the weekend?
Nick Russell - Sounds like a good trip to the Lakes. I've never been to St Bees but it looks ace.
Emily - Glad you enjoyed the outdoor bouldering.
Curious Yellow - must have been beautiful watching seals on Skye. Sounds like a great trip.
leeboy1985 - Welcome to Fitclub. It's great that you've already set some goals and we look forward to hearing more.
JustTintin - hope you had a better week, but V4 problems onsight doesn't sound too bad!
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=644010
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641125
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Tyler - Well done on the 7b+ 3rd go
SidH - Eastwood sounds like it's getting very close, but a break might be good. I'm feeling the same way about Aberration.
AJM - Sounds like your training is going well and you still have time for improvements before August.
Hms - It sounds like your getting some good climbing amid your stressful week. Hope things become more settled.
Biscuit - Hope the 8a project goes well.
Dandan- Sounds like a mammoth day on Portland. No wonder you were tired.
Ally Smith - well done on the Yoga. I hope things go well on MWAG.
heelhookforglory - I agree about feeling better mixing training with climbing, it's much more fun that way.
humptydumpty - conglomerate offwidths? I can see why it's hard to find a partner
Ian Bell - did you manage to get out at the weekend?
Nick Russell - Sounds like a good trip to the Lakes. I've never been to St Bees but it looks ace.
Emily - Glad you enjoyed the outdoor bouldering.
Curious Yellow - must have been beautiful watching seals on Skye. Sounds like a great trip.
leeboy1985 - Welcome to Fitclub. It's great that you've already set some goals and we look forward to hearing more.
JustTintin - hope you had a better week, but V4 problems onsight doesn't sound too bad!
2
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers Tony. I got some climbing in this week but very little supplementary training. Been feeling a bit wiped out really. Doesn't bode well.
I'm currently starting to wonder whether actually I should be focusing in on Cider Soak a bit more and thinking of this as a recce year for Infinite Gravity. I'm just not sure I'll be making up enough ground to get me to beyond my February scores by the level required, and also logistically if I try to peak for Infinite Gravity Aug/Sept then I'm not sure when I'll be able to fit in another peak for trying Cider Soak before it gets wet for the winter, and I'm pretty psyched to get it done really.
Tuesday - Winspit. Sea clag so pretty soapy. Did some warmups then had a quick play on Lunacy Booth (7c) which is a cool 7c through the roof of the big cave. I did most of the moves through the roof, but I need a pad on for the hard move into the kneebar I think. Keen to get back on this, its fun.
Saturday - Sharpnose. Wasn't climbing well really. Led The Smile (E1 5b) which was fun but I found a bit harder than I should have done. Seconded Break On Through (E4 5c) clean which was good although i did get a bit flash pumped on it. Wussed out of Out of the Blue (E2 5b) on the bold lower section which is a bit embarrassing as I cruised it the last time I was at the crag. Not a great day - dreams of harder things evaporated pretty early on and Sharpnose seemed more full of fiddly slightly wavy cracks and some awkward handholds than the sinker wires and ladders of jugs I remember through my rose tinted spectacles.
Sunday - Chudleigh to escape the rain. Seconded The Slot (HVS 5b) and Oesophagus (E1 5b), and led Combined Ops (E2 5b) which I enjoyed - I tried it about 5 years ago and backed off because it was wet on the upper crux, so it was good to get back on it and it did somewhat rescue my weekend. Psyche is back at least.
Got a half day this week on Friday to balance against a non-climbing weekend, then Burren the weekend after. Not sure I'll be trying E5s at Burren but I'm sure it will still be excellent!
> AJM - Sounds like your training is going well and you still have time for improvements before August.
Cheers Tony. I got some climbing in this week but very little supplementary training. Been feeling a bit wiped out really. Doesn't bode well.
I'm currently starting to wonder whether actually I should be focusing in on Cider Soak a bit more and thinking of this as a recce year for Infinite Gravity. I'm just not sure I'll be making up enough ground to get me to beyond my February scores by the level required, and also logistically if I try to peak for Infinite Gravity Aug/Sept then I'm not sure when I'll be able to fit in another peak for trying Cider Soak before it gets wet for the winter, and I'm pretty psyched to get it done really.
Tuesday - Winspit. Sea clag so pretty soapy. Did some warmups then had a quick play on Lunacy Booth (7c) which is a cool 7c through the roof of the big cave. I did most of the moves through the roof, but I need a pad on for the hard move into the kneebar I think. Keen to get back on this, its fun.
Saturday - Sharpnose. Wasn't climbing well really. Led The Smile (E1 5b) which was fun but I found a bit harder than I should have done. Seconded Break On Through (E4 5c) clean which was good although i did get a bit flash pumped on it. Wussed out of Out of the Blue (E2 5b) on the bold lower section which is a bit embarrassing as I cruised it the last time I was at the crag. Not a great day - dreams of harder things evaporated pretty early on and Sharpnose seemed more full of fiddly slightly wavy cracks and some awkward handholds than the sinker wires and ladders of jugs I remember through my rose tinted spectacles.
Sunday - Chudleigh to escape the rain. Seconded The Slot (HVS 5b) and Oesophagus (E1 5b), and led Combined Ops (E2 5b) which I enjoyed - I tried it about 5 years ago and backed off because it was wet on the upper crux, so it was good to get back on it and it did somewhat rescue my weekend. Psyche is back at least.
Got a half day this week on Friday to balance against a non-climbing weekend, then Burren the weekend after. Not sure I'll be trying E5s at Burren but I'm sure it will still be excellent!
1
In reply to TonyB:
Missed a couple of weeks - done a little but not enough cardio.
This week:
Wednesday - 8.7 km run with 240m ascent
Friday - went out to clean some new routes in the Mendips. Weather stopped raining so got to climb it. -It's called "Brexit!" - you may like the description! Brexit! (D)
Only a couple of weeks to go until I head off to the Alps, but also the busiest two weeks at work! Need to get myself sorted!
Missed a couple of weeks - done a little but not enough cardio.
This week:
Wednesday - 8.7 km run with 240m ascent
Friday - went out to clean some new routes in the Mendips. Weather stopped raining so got to climb it. -It's called "Brexit!" - you may like the description! Brexit! (D)
Only a couple of weeks to go until I head off to the Alps, but also the busiest two weeks at work! Need to get myself sorted!
2
STGs (last week):
* try the whole of Travessera dels Gossos [DONE]
STGs (next week):
* get out in the hills and have fun!
MTGs (end of June):
* finish Clockwork Orange, a 50-move problem at the local wall [DONE]
* tick 50% of http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1390 [FAIL]
* learn how to fall off sport climbs [DONE?]
MTGs (end of August):
* get fit for the alps
LTGs (end of 2016)
* redpoint F7a [DONE!]
* tick 20 routes on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1391
* solo Punsola-Reniu (aid allowed)
BHAG
* F8a in 2017 (Kalymnos, obvs)
M: nothing
T: climb - tried the rest of the moves on TdG. Very fingery, which makes a change. There are a few really hard bits, but they all go (with fresh fingers). Ripped my pads to shreds.
W: slackline
T: nothing
F: run (1 hr)
S: nothing
S: nothing
It's basically the end of June, and although I haven't got on all the classics in St Benet that I was hoping for, I'm satisfied with how things are lately and looking forward to my first trip to Snowdonia the coming week. If anyone fancies a day this week on the Dinas Cromlech extremes, then get in touch!
* try the whole of Travessera dels Gossos [DONE]
STGs (next week):
* get out in the hills and have fun!
MTGs (end of June):
* finish Clockwork Orange, a 50-move problem at the local wall [DONE]
* tick 50% of http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1390 [FAIL]
* learn how to fall off sport climbs [DONE?]
MTGs (end of August):
* get fit for the alps
LTGs (end of 2016)
* redpoint F7a [DONE!]
* tick 20 routes on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1391
* solo Punsola-Reniu (aid allowed)
BHAG
* F8a in 2017 (Kalymnos, obvs)
M: nothing
T: climb - tried the rest of the moves on TdG. Very fingery, which makes a change. There are a few really hard bits, but they all go (with fresh fingers). Ripped my pads to shreds.
W: slackline
T: nothing
F: run (1 hr)
S: nothing
S: nothing
It's basically the end of June, and although I haven't got on all the classics in St Benet that I was hoping for, I'm satisfied with how things are lately and looking forward to my first trip to Snowdonia the coming week. If anyone fancies a day this week on the Dinas Cromlech extremes, then get in touch!
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers Tony. It's still very much a project.
I'll start with the session on The Bulge. Not bad for a second session. The groove is getting easier - just a foot sequence to engrain at the top. Didn't look at the knee bar as it was wet. Working from the crimp rail to the finish seems to be a good starting point. That's the focus for now whilst neatening stuff up on the crux on the way up.
It's such hard work getting the rope in, working it on a top rope and getting the draws out at the end that there's not much energy left for climbing. The conclusion it's easier to lead was dawning on us and helped along by a couple of gentle nudges from others. Mainly along the lines of "You're working it on a TOP ROPE?" accompanied with rolling eyes. So on the sharp end tomorrow.
Training was pants. Tuesday was a planned rest day, Wednesday was a monster day at work with a 2 hr break in it. After stripping and setting the most awkward lines in the centre, sorting and cleaning the holds and being generally physical my shoulders and bicep insertions felt really painful. I tried an An Cap steep Boulder but stopped before I did some damage. Thursday got shelved as I ended up coaching and it's been kids all weekend.
This week will be better. Written a plan out and will stick to it. Starting some specific core work, shoulder care and stretching everyday.
Got my results back from coach kettle. Some technique to work on, which is always good, fitness is not up to par (no surprise there) but I have excellent finger strength. Go figure. I always thought I had weak fingers.
Essentially I need to get on the route as much as possible and put some serious effort into getting fit for the route.
Cheers Tony. It's still very much a project.
I'll start with the session on The Bulge. Not bad for a second session. The groove is getting easier - just a foot sequence to engrain at the top. Didn't look at the knee bar as it was wet. Working from the crimp rail to the finish seems to be a good starting point. That's the focus for now whilst neatening stuff up on the crux on the way up.
It's such hard work getting the rope in, working it on a top rope and getting the draws out at the end that there's not much energy left for climbing. The conclusion it's easier to lead was dawning on us and helped along by a couple of gentle nudges from others. Mainly along the lines of "You're working it on a TOP ROPE?" accompanied with rolling eyes. So on the sharp end tomorrow.
Training was pants. Tuesday was a planned rest day, Wednesday was a monster day at work with a 2 hr break in it. After stripping and setting the most awkward lines in the centre, sorting and cleaning the holds and being generally physical my shoulders and bicep insertions felt really painful. I tried an An Cap steep Boulder but stopped before I did some damage. Thursday got shelved as I ended up coaching and it's been kids all weekend.
This week will be better. Written a plan out and will stick to it. Starting some specific core work, shoulder care and stretching everyday.
Got my results back from coach kettle. Some technique to work on, which is always good, fitness is not up to par (no surprise there) but I have excellent finger strength. Go figure. I always thought I had weak fingers.
Essentially I need to get on the route as much as possible and put some serious effort into getting fit for the route.
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers Tony. A break from Eastwood ia definitely in order at least for a short while. I decided to get back on some more normal bouldering this weeknfor a change, although the plan was to chill out a bit, and I've already suckered myself into something hard! Hope you have made good progress on Aberration.
2016 goals:
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Good range of 'up' f7B/+s
- Wright's Traverse (f7B - done)
- Moffatrocity (f7B+ - done)
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)
- Arch Enemies (7c+)
- 8a
M: rest
T: bouldering after work. Went to the churnet to try the moves on The Mentalist (f7C). (My mate was trying the 7C+ just next door.) Much to my surprise I did all but one of the moves, pretty happy with that! It's a long reach out across a roof to a big front-3 pocket in the roof near the lip, then a really powerful and core-y move off that to reach a slopey rugosity over the lip, then bump to a two finger pocket. Then you do a weird contortion to get your right heel on a pebble and pull up on a few more pebbles up the wall above to a break, and one last easy but droppable reach.
W: rest
T: Ally and Andy said they wanted stats, so I decided to give them stats! FoC benchmarking. The setup is non-standard so the absolute numbers won't relate to doing it on a normal board, but maybe there's some insight in the trend. Basically I just moved my hands between the good and bad crimps on a bm2000 about once or twice per second for as long as I could with feet on a camp chair about a foot off the floor and equal distance behind the board. Rest time equal to climb time. Results were 180 seconds, 120, 95, 88, 85, ? (messed up timing here), 80, 70, 70. I guess it felt like the early decline was quite steep but the plateau seemed quite good..?
F: rest/ depressed about the world.
S: Morning session on Mentalist again. Did all the moves and linked from the lip to the top. Also repeated Propellorhead, which is a brilliant 7A.
S: Morning session on Mentalist again. Thought I had good chance of doing it today but I couldn't link to the 2 finger pocket from the ground. Want to be a bit stronger on right hand front 3 and core, or else just try harder. Still, it's Ft7C and I've never done one before so not unhappy.
Also doing a short and unstructured fingerboard session now. Need to burn some energy but my skin is too f*cked to do a proper session. The churnet is sharp...
Injury catalogue: left index finger no change. Felt the shoulder a couple of times, need to keep up the rehab. Slight tweak felt in rh middle finger when hauling hard onxfront 3 pocker - need to be careful.
Weight last Sunday night was 11st 0lb.
Si
Cheers Tony. A break from Eastwood ia definitely in order at least for a short while. I decided to get back on some more normal bouldering this weeknfor a change, although the plan was to chill out a bit, and I've already suckered myself into something hard! Hope you have made good progress on Aberration.
2016 goals:
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Good range of 'up' f7B/+s
- Wright's Traverse (f7B - done)
- Moffatrocity (f7B+ - done)
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)
- Arch Enemies (7c+)
- 8a
M: rest
T: bouldering after work. Went to the churnet to try the moves on The Mentalist (f7C). (My mate was trying the 7C+ just next door.) Much to my surprise I did all but one of the moves, pretty happy with that! It's a long reach out across a roof to a big front-3 pocket in the roof near the lip, then a really powerful and core-y move off that to reach a slopey rugosity over the lip, then bump to a two finger pocket. Then you do a weird contortion to get your right heel on a pebble and pull up on a few more pebbles up the wall above to a break, and one last easy but droppable reach.
W: rest
T: Ally and Andy said they wanted stats, so I decided to give them stats! FoC benchmarking. The setup is non-standard so the absolute numbers won't relate to doing it on a normal board, but maybe there's some insight in the trend. Basically I just moved my hands between the good and bad crimps on a bm2000 about once or twice per second for as long as I could with feet on a camp chair about a foot off the floor and equal distance behind the board. Rest time equal to climb time. Results were 180 seconds, 120, 95, 88, 85, ? (messed up timing here), 80, 70, 70. I guess it felt like the early decline was quite steep but the plateau seemed quite good..?
F: rest/ depressed about the world.
S: Morning session on Mentalist again. Did all the moves and linked from the lip to the top. Also repeated Propellorhead, which is a brilliant 7A.
S: Morning session on Mentalist again. Thought I had good chance of doing it today but I couldn't link to the 2 finger pocket from the ground. Want to be a bit stronger on right hand front 3 and core, or else just try harder. Still, it's Ft7C and I've never done one before so not unhappy.
Also doing a short and unstructured fingerboard session now. Need to burn some energy but my skin is too f*cked to do a proper session. The churnet is sharp...
Injury catalogue: left index finger no change. Felt the shoulder a couple of times, need to keep up the rehab. Slight tweak felt in rh middle finger when hauling hard onxfront 3 pocker - need to be careful.
Weight last Sunday night was 11st 0lb.
Si
Post edited at 22:02
In reply to Si dH:
Quite a high plateau level indicates a fairly high AnCap level - 39%.
I've probably got one of these scheduled for this coming week so will let you know how mine looks at the minute.
> T: Ally and Andy said they wanted stats, so I decided to give them stats! FoC benchmarking. The setup is non-standard so the absolute numbers won't relate to doing it on a normal board, but maybe there's some insight in the trend. Basically I just moved my hands between the good and bad crimps on a bm2000 about once or twice per second for as long as I could with feet on a camp chair about a foot off the floor and equal distance behind the board. Rest time equal to climb time. Results were 180 seconds, 120, 95, 88, 85, ? (messed up timing here), 80, 70, 70. I guess it felt like the early decline was quite steep but the plateau seemed quite good..?
Quite a high plateau level indicates a fairly high AnCap level - 39%.
I've probably got one of these scheduled for this coming week so will let you know how mine looks at the minute.
In reply to TonyB:
M: Rest
T: Depot, late session (again) just did problems
W: Yoga then tried the new SIBL problems at the Depot
T: Fully intended going Yoga but got caught up with work.
F: Rest and wrestled with a monumental clusterf*ck of a decision the country has taken.
S: Kilnsey - decided to beat the crowds by getting on the route to warm up.Did first four bolts then next to dogged to the top including a link from base of groove to top. RP1: Puntered at first hard move, RP2: Grabbed clip in cowardly fashion, RP3: got to flat hold at base of groove (not sure I got here from ground when I was trying this a couple of years ago) then Puntered off next move, then did it to top
S: Depot, managed to do the black circuit for the first time ever (possible dab infringement) then fannied about on 30 degree board. Encouraged on to campus board by strong youths who were agogog at my inability to do 1-3-5 on the big rungs. I was so bad they stopped heckling once they realised I wasn't just pretending to be that weak.
Prob won't get on the project this week which is a bummer as it is definitely on.
M: Rest
T: Depot, late session (again) just did problems
W: Yoga then tried the new SIBL problems at the Depot
T: Fully intended going Yoga but got caught up with work.
F: Rest and wrestled with a monumental clusterf*ck of a decision the country has taken.
S: Kilnsey - decided to beat the crowds by getting on the route to warm up.Did first four bolts then next to dogged to the top including a link from base of groove to top. RP1: Puntered at first hard move, RP2: Grabbed clip in cowardly fashion, RP3: got to flat hold at base of groove (not sure I got here from ground when I was trying this a couple of years ago) then Puntered off next move, then did it to top
S: Depot, managed to do the black circuit for the first time ever (possible dab infringement) then fannied about on 30 degree board. Encouraged on to campus board by strong youths who were agogog at my inability to do 1-3-5 on the big rungs. I was so bad they stopped heckling once they realised I wasn't just pretending to be that weak.
Prob won't get on the project this week which is a bummer as it is definitely on.
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks Tony
Last weeks goals
Lose weight - drop from 85kg to 84kg - Fail still 85kg
Next week STG
Lose weight drop from 85kg to 84kg - Really need to watch what I am eating this week. Going to try and cut out the cider on the weekend
MTG Sept 2016
Be steady on HS routes - looking good so far
Lead 1 VS route
LTG winter 2016/2017
Get experience in Scottish winter
BHAG
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Orion Face Direct (V 5)
Monday - Run, 1 hour, slow pace 12 min per mile. 5 miles
Tuesday - Core and Strength training
Wednesday - Lead Gargoyle (HS 4b) at Shorncliff. I need to learn to Jam to make life easier.
Thursday - Run, 20 min, fast pace 9 min miles, 2.2 miles
Friday - Rest
Saturday - Rest
Sunday - Went to Symonds yat and climbed Traveller's Rest (VD)Louisiana Belle (HS 4b) and The Big Easy (HS 4c)
Happy training
Lee
Thanks Tony
Last weeks goals
Lose weight - drop from 85kg to 84kg - Fail still 85kg
Next week STG
Lose weight drop from 85kg to 84kg - Really need to watch what I am eating this week. Going to try and cut out the cider on the weekend
MTG Sept 2016
Be steady on HS routes - looking good so far
Lead 1 VS route
LTG winter 2016/2017
Get experience in Scottish winter
BHAG
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Orion Face Direct (V 5)
Monday - Run, 1 hour, slow pace 12 min per mile. 5 miles
Tuesday - Core and Strength training
Wednesday - Lead Gargoyle (HS 4b) at Shorncliff. I need to learn to Jam to make life easier.
Thursday - Run, 20 min, fast pace 9 min miles, 2.2 miles
Friday - Rest
Saturday - Rest
Sunday - Went to Symonds yat and climbed Traveller's Rest (VD)Louisiana Belle (HS 4b) and The Big Easy (HS 4c)
Happy training
Lee
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers Tony, I'd like to get to a point where that kind of day just feels normal and not mammoth at all (I'm getting there), so I need to make sure I keep getting the mileage in when I'm outside.
Good week for me, finally back into the groove of training, plus a very positive session with the physio...
M: Indoor Boulder; I've been perusing Barrows energy systems doc to make sure I am doing the right things in the build up to Kaly, turns out I have probably been doing a lot of AeroPow where I should have been doing AnCap up to now, but there's nothing I can do about that now, so these last few weeks need to be more AeroPow and some hard bouldering mostly, I will keep the AnCap topped up though. Did 4x4 boulders on V4, V4, V5, V4, failed on set 3 rep 3 and set 4 rep 4, pretty decent.
T: Fingerboard and Bodyweight antagonists, some good consecutive handstands. Also, I saw some photos from Café Kraft of Alex Megos warming up, and he was doing handstand pushups and Manna lifts, if it's good enough for Megos, it's good enough for me! I feel vindicated!
W: Cardio circuits; sweaty mess.
T: Indoor Boulder; Ancap, made a 15 move V4 by modifying an existing 12 move V3 and did 11 reps with rest at 2x work length. I didn't fail but I did make a lot of noise towards the end, it had one easier, almost rest move 2/3 of the way through that perhaps made it too easy.
2x10 minute Aero/ARC.
I want to create a practice route/circuit to imitate Daniboy for some specific fitness training, I'm thinking up/down the 20 deg board at V2/3, traverse to roof board (right next to it) and go up V4, down V2, up V3/4, down V2, back to 20 deg board and up/down V2/3. Hopefully that makes an exaggerated version of the flat/steep/flat format of Daniboy. If I can do that circuit at those grades I think I'd have half a chance.
F: Aside from being ashamed to be British, I went to see Huffy, the physio.
Now the tennis elbow is history (I was going to tell him I only felt discomfort briefly after long sessions, but realised I haven't felt it AT ALL for the last week, result), I wanted to see if he could work his magic on my long standing elbow overuse issue. I thought it was some kind of bicep/tricep imbalance and he was inclined to agree based on my description, but on investigation he is sure it is to do with forearm supination and what happens to the lower biceps tendon when you turn your palm down (as you do most of the time when climbing).
Long story short, everything he said matches up with everything I have experienced and I now have some new exercises to see if we can't do something about it. If I can fix or even improve this and start climbing hard on holidays more than 1 day in 3, I'm going to be a very happy man!
S: Best man duties at a wedding, the only training I did was of the hand to mouth variety.
S: Fingerboard, now doing 5 sec 1 arm hangs off the lower centre slot on the beastmaker 2k, very encouraging, might re-do my benchmark hangs.
Last weeks STG:
3 Climbing sessions - 2/3
10x10 second free handstands - 3/10, but pretty good ones
make progress on V8+ problem - Yes I did, new beta for long sideways reach but last hold is a puzzler
Begin power phase for Kaly - Yep
Next Weeks STG:
3 climbing sessions -
10x10 second free handstands -
Create Daniboy training circuit -
MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - improvements below
Get outside a couple of times - 7/2
Get back on Fighting Torque - maybe this week?
LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October - Going well...
Tick Besame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October - This is going to be a walk in the park (i hope)
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds
BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...
Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
*Assisted one arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16* *1-4-7 both arms 17/5/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a 5/5/16* *4x7a+ 19/5/16*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between
> Dandan- Sounds like a mammoth day on Portland. No wonder you were tired.
Cheers Tony, I'd like to get to a point where that kind of day just feels normal and not mammoth at all (I'm getting there), so I need to make sure I keep getting the mileage in when I'm outside.
Good week for me, finally back into the groove of training, plus a very positive session with the physio...
M: Indoor Boulder; I've been perusing Barrows energy systems doc to make sure I am doing the right things in the build up to Kaly, turns out I have probably been doing a lot of AeroPow where I should have been doing AnCap up to now, but there's nothing I can do about that now, so these last few weeks need to be more AeroPow and some hard bouldering mostly, I will keep the AnCap topped up though. Did 4x4 boulders on V4, V4, V5, V4, failed on set 3 rep 3 and set 4 rep 4, pretty decent.
T: Fingerboard and Bodyweight antagonists, some good consecutive handstands. Also, I saw some photos from Café Kraft of Alex Megos warming up, and he was doing handstand pushups and Manna lifts, if it's good enough for Megos, it's good enough for me! I feel vindicated!
W: Cardio circuits; sweaty mess.
T: Indoor Boulder; Ancap, made a 15 move V4 by modifying an existing 12 move V3 and did 11 reps with rest at 2x work length. I didn't fail but I did make a lot of noise towards the end, it had one easier, almost rest move 2/3 of the way through that perhaps made it too easy.
2x10 minute Aero/ARC.
I want to create a practice route/circuit to imitate Daniboy for some specific fitness training, I'm thinking up/down the 20 deg board at V2/3, traverse to roof board (right next to it) and go up V4, down V2, up V3/4, down V2, back to 20 deg board and up/down V2/3. Hopefully that makes an exaggerated version of the flat/steep/flat format of Daniboy. If I can do that circuit at those grades I think I'd have half a chance.
F: Aside from being ashamed to be British, I went to see Huffy, the physio.
Now the tennis elbow is history (I was going to tell him I only felt discomfort briefly after long sessions, but realised I haven't felt it AT ALL for the last week, result), I wanted to see if he could work his magic on my long standing elbow overuse issue. I thought it was some kind of bicep/tricep imbalance and he was inclined to agree based on my description, but on investigation he is sure it is to do with forearm supination and what happens to the lower biceps tendon when you turn your palm down (as you do most of the time when climbing).
Long story short, everything he said matches up with everything I have experienced and I now have some new exercises to see if we can't do something about it. If I can fix or even improve this and start climbing hard on holidays more than 1 day in 3, I'm going to be a very happy man!
S: Best man duties at a wedding, the only training I did was of the hand to mouth variety.
S: Fingerboard, now doing 5 sec 1 arm hangs off the lower centre slot on the beastmaker 2k, very encouraging, might re-do my benchmark hangs.
Last weeks STG:
3 Climbing sessions - 2/3
10x10 second free handstands - 3/10, but pretty good ones
make progress on V8+ problem - Yes I did, new beta for long sideways reach but last hold is a puzzler
Begin power phase for Kaly - Yep
Next Weeks STG:
3 climbing sessions -
10x10 second free handstands -
Create Daniboy training circuit -
MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - improvements below
Get outside a couple of times - 7/2
Get back on Fighting Torque - maybe this week?
LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October - Going well...
Tick Besame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October - This is going to be a walk in the park (i hope)
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds
BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...
Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
*Assisted one arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16* *1-4-7 both arms 17/5/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a 5/5/16* *4x7a+ 19/5/16*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between
In reply to Tyler:
What's the project, out of interest?
> S: Kilnsey - decided to beat the crowds by getting on the route to warm up.Did first four bolts then next to dogged to the top including a link from base of groove to top. RP1: Puntered at first hard move, RP2: Grabbed clip in cowardly fashion, RP3: got to flat hold at base of groove (not sure I got here from ground when I was trying this a couple of years ago) then Puntered off next move, then did it to top
What's the project, out of interest?
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
Dominatrix, then I'll be back on the 8a hunt. I thought about Cold Steal so you might have me hogging the bottom of your route soon!
Dominatrix, then I'll be back on the 8a hunt. I thought about Cold Steal so you might have me hogging the bottom of your route soon!
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
STG = another 7a+ by end of June, FAIL.
MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 2x7a, 2x7a+.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Hi all
Mon - 90 mins TRX rings and watching england make life harder in the euros part 1
Tues - c1 hour 10 sec fingerboard max hangs
Weds - 90 mins strength and conditioning
Thurs - quick (c1.15hr) boulder. Repeated the 6C+ stamina circuit and almost flashed the 7A one, I think they're both soft.
Fri - 6x6mins continuous climbing (up and down). Up generally 6b/+ and down around 5+/6a. Watch england make life harder in the euros part 2
Sat - day hit to Dancing ledge. Warmed up and had a couple of goes on Double or Quits (7a+) but didn't get on with it, found it horribly crimpy. Had 3 goes on Mr. Choo Choo (7a) but was too tired at the end. Frustrating day, think I was a bit tired even before I started but fell I should have been able to do the 7a in a day. Seem to be regaining my fear of falling a bit at present which isn't helping.
Sun - day off
Aiming for a daytrip to Llanymynech on Sat this week and hopefully tick off Strawberry Tubin (7b), was close last time. Also hoping england can avoid crashing out of the euro(s) twice in a week when they play Iceland tonight...
STG = another 7a+ by end of June, FAIL.
MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 2x7a, 2x7a+.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Hi all
Mon - 90 mins TRX rings and watching england make life harder in the euros part 1
Tues - c1 hour 10 sec fingerboard max hangs
Weds - 90 mins strength and conditioning
Thurs - quick (c1.15hr) boulder. Repeated the 6C+ stamina circuit and almost flashed the 7A one, I think they're both soft.
Fri - 6x6mins continuous climbing (up and down). Up generally 6b/+ and down around 5+/6a. Watch england make life harder in the euros part 2
Sat - day hit to Dancing ledge. Warmed up and had a couple of goes on Double or Quits (7a+) but didn't get on with it, found it horribly crimpy. Had 3 goes on Mr. Choo Choo (7a) but was too tired at the end. Frustrating day, think I was a bit tired even before I started but fell I should have been able to do the 7a in a day. Seem to be regaining my fear of falling a bit at present which isn't helping.
Sun - day off
Aiming for a daytrip to Llanymynech on Sat this week and hopefully tick off Strawberry Tubin (7b), was close last time. Also hoping england can avoid crashing out of the euro(s) twice in a week when they play Iceland tonight...
In reply to AJM:
When I went to Sharpnose, I found that the hardest route of the day!
> Saturday - Sharpnose...Led The Smile (E1 5b) which was fun but I found a bit harder than I should have done.
When I went to Sharpnose, I found that the hardest route of the day!
In reply to TonyB:
I've been a lurker for a long time (mainly for stalking my mum while at uni - I'm D1) but thought I should actually start posting as I now have time to climb again! I'll have a think about more finite goals, but for the moment I just want to get fit again and properly climb after a v long time where my degree took over.
M - Tidy/Unpack/Be allergic to dust
T - Same
W - Same
Th - Travel to Durham, quick dog walk
F - 2 hour dog walk. Was not expecting it to be so long, boyfriend decided to take the v long route. Small old dog and I both shattered when we got back. Durham Climbing Centre - short session as skin gave up and just getting a feel for the wall.
Sa - Long beach walk
Su - DCC again. More focused this time and went round their 5-6b circuit. Got most of the problems, including the one they said was the crux of the circuit. Few more to have a go at cause I got tired at the end. All in all, a good session!
I'm up in the North with my boyfriend for the next few weeks. Hoping to make several trips to DCC, and maybe check out the wall in Newcastle, as well as a week in the Lakes.
I've been a lurker for a long time (mainly for stalking my mum while at uni - I'm D1) but thought I should actually start posting as I now have time to climb again! I'll have a think about more finite goals, but for the moment I just want to get fit again and properly climb after a v long time where my degree took over.
M - Tidy/Unpack/Be allergic to dust
T - Same
W - Same
Th - Travel to Durham, quick dog walk
F - 2 hour dog walk. Was not expecting it to be so long, boyfriend decided to take the v long route. Small old dog and I both shattered when we got back. Durham Climbing Centre - short session as skin gave up and just getting a feel for the wall.
Sa - Long beach walk
Su - DCC again. More focused this time and went round their 5-6b circuit. Got most of the problems, including the one they said was the crux of the circuit. Few more to have a go at cause I got tired at the end. All in all, a good session!
I'm up in the North with my boyfriend for the next few weeks. Hoping to make several trips to DCC, and maybe check out the wall in Newcastle, as well as a week in the Lakes.
In reply to jas128:
well hello there dear thing. Fancy meeting you here!
could I suggest you invest in some Climb Skin? It will help a lot.
well hello there dear thing. Fancy meeting you here!
could I suggest you invest in some Climb Skin? It will help a lot.
In reply to TonyB:
D2 has now finished her exams too, hurrah. Last week was a taper week before SA and this week will be too, then off on Friday. Don't know what the internet access as the place we're staying is like, so I may be AWOL for a couple of weeks.
M - cycle commute.
T - cycle commute. Bloc in evening. Flashed their 6a, 6b, 6c & 7a circuit (well, came off the final move of the 7a) then ticked a fairly large nuber of the blue problems (6a+ to 6c). Very hot and got very very crowded so cut the session slightly short.
W - cycle commute. Shoulder rehab in evening.
T - cycle commute. core in evening.
F - Ben West session at UCR. Sort ed the moved up 2/3rds of an 8a but have a nasty feeling that that was where is started being proper 8a. Got shut down by a massive hurl rather low down a 7b. Main message was that I'm all nice and bouncy & dynamic on stuff I know, but totally static & tight on stuff I don't know, so onsight more & go for it.
S - felt grotty - end of exams alcohol the night before could have been implicated!
S - Redpoint as their comp wall had been reset so good opportunity to do some onsighting and go for it. Oh dear. The previous set had been rather soft in places but was approachable. There is nothing easy this time round! Tried 5 new routes ranging from 7a (it isn't) to 7b (it isn't) and got sandbagged on all but one. Misread a foot on that one else it would have gone. Felt a touch dispondant.
This week I'll probably do 1 route and 1 boulder session but not get too knackered. Then SA here we come!
D2 has now finished her exams too, hurrah. Last week was a taper week before SA and this week will be too, then off on Friday. Don't know what the internet access as the place we're staying is like, so I may be AWOL for a couple of weeks.
M - cycle commute.
T - cycle commute. Bloc in evening. Flashed their 6a, 6b, 6c & 7a circuit (well, came off the final move of the 7a) then ticked a fairly large nuber of the blue problems (6a+ to 6c). Very hot and got very very crowded so cut the session slightly short.
W - cycle commute. Shoulder rehab in evening.
T - cycle commute. core in evening.
F - Ben West session at UCR. Sort ed the moved up 2/3rds of an 8a but have a nasty feeling that that was where is started being proper 8a. Got shut down by a massive hurl rather low down a 7b. Main message was that I'm all nice and bouncy & dynamic on stuff I know, but totally static & tight on stuff I don't know, so onsight more & go for it.
S - felt grotty - end of exams alcohol the night before could have been implicated!
S - Redpoint as their comp wall had been reset so good opportunity to do some onsighting and go for it. Oh dear. The previous set had been rather soft in places but was approachable. There is nothing easy this time round! Tried 5 new routes ranging from 7a (it isn't) to 7b (it isn't) and got sandbagged on all but one. Misread a foot on that one else it would have gone. Felt a touch dispondant.
This week I'll probably do 1 route and 1 boulder session but not get too knackered. Then SA here we come!
1
In reply to TonyB:
Monday - nothing.
Tuesday - nothing.
Wednesday - nothing. Conference, ate too many biscuits, limped around the presenting area while giving my talk.
Thursday - evening climbing at Cheddar. Successfully redpointed The Numb Ones (6b+) which I was pretty pleased with! I had been on it ages ago on toprope but not tried to lead it before.
Friday - nothing.
Saturday - nothing except an abortive attempt at a run, bailed after about a minute.
Sunday - climbing at UCR. Flashed up to 6b+ (twice) and had a play on a 7a to see if I could do any of the moves (some! The clipping was a nightmare though, so much drag). Also made myself do some falling off without clipping the chains, plus a 6a slab (hardest thing I flashed, for sure) and a nasty vertical 6a (scary, dogged it).
I might not be able to post next week; going away on Friday.
Short term (Jun, Jul)
Medium term (Jun, Jul, Aug)
Maybe someday
> Emily - Glad you enjoyed the outdoor bouldering.
Thanks Tony. I had a poor week this week - hampered by a bit of a work overload in the first half of it, and also by my foot preventing me from getting out for a run. I didn't even try running until Saturday and it was still painful enough to be affecting my gait and just not fun. On the positive side, I did some fairly good climbing which the foot-slicing hasn't hindered.Monday - nothing.
Tuesday - nothing.
Wednesday - nothing. Conference, ate too many biscuits, limped around the presenting area while giving my talk.
Thursday - evening climbing at Cheddar. Successfully redpointed The Numb Ones (6b+) which I was pretty pleased with! I had been on it ages ago on toprope but not tried to lead it before.
Friday - nothing.
Saturday - nothing except an abortive attempt at a run, bailed after about a minute.
Sunday - climbing at UCR. Flashed up to 6b+ (twice) and had a play on a 7a to see if I could do any of the moves (some! The clipping was a nightmare though, so much drag). Also made myself do some falling off without clipping the chains, plus a 6a slab (hardest thing I flashed, for sure) and a nasty vertical 6a (scary, dogged it).
I might not be able to post next week; going away on Friday.
Short term (Jun, Jul)
- do something to work on fear because this is driving me insane and ruining my fun, as per usual. Fall practice, static climbing drills, anything?
- did some fall practice and climbed above some bolts outside. Both helped, I think
- have fun on early July holiday (going somewhere in or near the south of France)
Medium term (Jun, Jul, Aug)
- maintain weight in 56-58kg range
- 59.0kg, down 0.1. Ate too much this week really
- figure out what I want to focus on for cardio fitness now the Bristol 10k is over
- should have gone swimming or something this week. Stupid foot preventing me from running
- have another play on Pearl Harbour
- go outdoor climbing with a good attitude
- yes, did ok on The Numb Ones
Maybe someday
- redpoint something legitimately beginning with 7 indoors?
- tried out the moves on one this week
- redpoint something beginning with 7 outdoors??
- lead a VS???
In reply to Emily:
I'm guessing the 7a was the green, to the left of the archway? Drag can be reduced at the top by leaning down and unclipping the last arete draw when you are on the big flat jug under the top roof, with the lip clip now in.
I'm guessing the 7a was the green, to the left of the archway? Drag can be reduced at the top by leaning down and unclipping the last arete draw when you are on the big flat jug under the top roof, with the lip clip now in.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Yeah, i remember a very similar sentiment from my last day down there. Out of the Blue should be the default warm-up!
> When I went to Sharpnose, I found that the hardest route of the day!
Yeah, i remember a very similar sentiment from my last day down there. Out of the Blue should be the default warm-up!
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks for the stats Tony - a very successful week/weekend and feel like I’m peaking just in time for the trip. As an added bonus, fingers are feeling healthy again - albeit not particularly strong.
Last/Next week’s goals:
2x rehab sessions. Tick – repeat – use the spikey ball more for massage
1x an-cap - fingerboard, Depot or Cave? – fail
1x an-pow – need to get some zing back - fail
2x aero-power – FoC, RP’ing or similar – tick (x3) – Do a final aero-power taper test before trip.
2x mental rehearsal of project sequences – once only again - need to practice this to remember all of TotGs
June goals:
Continued shoulder rehab and core fitness – yoga has been good; core feels like it’s very active and flexible, e.g. The Wire moves, but not strong like it used to be
Continue to rehab strange finger tweaks - almost there
1x week an-cap fingerboard work-out - miserable failure
2x week aero-power - this went well
<75kg when in Boven – probably the biggest lever I can pull with only a month to go - minor progress
Investigate/bolt the harder projects at Malham & Kilnsey; work in progress (seen some more lines too...)
Complete >3 from the following: - TICK!
Middle third, 8a – bypassed/ticked on the way to;
Start to high Break, 8a+ - tick (done it twice now)
Man with a Gun, 7c+/8a - tick
Bullet, 8a+ - surprise tick
Link SSiC into CoF; 8a+/b?
Waddage, 8b
Week 26:
M - Spikey massage ball at work helped shoulder stiffness, but gave me headaches…
CyL breakthrough session. Big overlapping sections of TotGs including doing missing link from end of Mr Skin to resting corner via the high break. I now know I can climb between the rests, and just need to either: arrive at the rests fresh enough that cumulative fatigue doesn’t stop me, or be good enough at resting that I get it all back. Game on…
T - Nowt; Cambridge trip.
W - Day 2 Cambridge. Stretch and spikey ball massage.
T - CyL. The Traverse Of the Gods (8b+) RP attempt – got as far as the drop down of Bend of the Rainbow. I was brutally pumped, but think I could have moved quicker through high break, and got more back at the kneebar (it was greasy, and the kneepad was slipping). Wiped out after that, and attempts at doing Bend to the end; low, both failed on the Low Life Traverse. I think I might need to go high to make use of the rest up high to up the odds.
F - Life admin whilst trying to ignore the Brexit result.
S - Kilnsey. New (to me) 6c warm-up. Back on Man With A Gun (7c+). Got some new beta from Ted which took the power out of the top section, but made it more tenuous. 1st RP; bottom bit felt solid, blew it on the tenuous bit when a foot slipped and had a massive barn-door! 2nd RP; bottom felt harder, and middle bit too. Got through to the top of MWAG, stepped right to rest, and got my breathing under control, but shoulders were getting tired in the rest. Honestly thought I had no chance on the extension Bullet (8a+), but might as well give it a blast. Somehow caught the high sidepull, sketched my feet wildly to find a position to clip (never worked this out previously) and went big to catch the jug at the end of the difficulties! 10min sat in a painful kneebar in shorts were needed to recovery before the relative formality of the 7b finish. Proper bo! Visitation (7b) to warm-down: OS went tits up; easy RP.
S - Much later start back to Kilnsey. Bolt-2-bolt on Zero Option (7c+) getting move by move beta from Willy Bob. RP next go and tried the other start Soft-Zero Option (8a) whilst lowering off. Did that quick too, so did another 7b retro-flash (Vizzy Vu (7b)) warm-down. Midges came out and I ran away.
Thanks for the stats Tony - a very successful week/weekend and feel like I’m peaking just in time for the trip. As an added bonus, fingers are feeling healthy again - albeit not particularly strong.
Last/Next week’s goals:
2x rehab sessions. Tick – repeat – use the spikey ball more for massage
1x an-cap - fingerboard, Depot or Cave? – fail
1x an-pow – need to get some zing back - fail
2x aero-power – FoC, RP’ing or similar – tick (x3) – Do a final aero-power taper test before trip.
2x mental rehearsal of project sequences – once only again - need to practice this to remember all of TotGs
June goals:
Continued shoulder rehab and core fitness – yoga has been good; core feels like it’s very active and flexible, e.g. The Wire moves, but not strong like it used to be
Continue to rehab strange finger tweaks - almost there
1x week an-cap fingerboard work-out - miserable failure
2x week aero-power - this went well
<75kg when in Boven – probably the biggest lever I can pull with only a month to go - minor progress
Investigate/bolt the harder projects at Malham & Kilnsey; work in progress (seen some more lines too...)
Complete >3 from the following: - TICK!
Middle third, 8a – bypassed/ticked on the way to;
Start to high Break, 8a+ - tick (done it twice now)
Man with a Gun, 7c+/8a - tick
Bullet, 8a+ - surprise tick
Link SSiC into CoF; 8a+/b?
Waddage, 8b
Week 26:
M - Spikey massage ball at work helped shoulder stiffness, but gave me headaches…
CyL breakthrough session. Big overlapping sections of TotGs including doing missing link from end of Mr Skin to resting corner via the high break. I now know I can climb between the rests, and just need to either: arrive at the rests fresh enough that cumulative fatigue doesn’t stop me, or be good enough at resting that I get it all back. Game on…
T - Nowt; Cambridge trip.
W - Day 2 Cambridge. Stretch and spikey ball massage.
T - CyL. The Traverse Of the Gods (8b+) RP attempt – got as far as the drop down of Bend of the Rainbow. I was brutally pumped, but think I could have moved quicker through high break, and got more back at the kneebar (it was greasy, and the kneepad was slipping). Wiped out after that, and attempts at doing Bend to the end; low, both failed on the Low Life Traverse. I think I might need to go high to make use of the rest up high to up the odds.
F - Life admin whilst trying to ignore the Brexit result.
S - Kilnsey. New (to me) 6c warm-up. Back on Man With A Gun (7c+). Got some new beta from Ted which took the power out of the top section, but made it more tenuous. 1st RP; bottom bit felt solid, blew it on the tenuous bit when a foot slipped and had a massive barn-door! 2nd RP; bottom felt harder, and middle bit too. Got through to the top of MWAG, stepped right to rest, and got my breathing under control, but shoulders were getting tired in the rest. Honestly thought I had no chance on the extension Bullet (8a+), but might as well give it a blast. Somehow caught the high sidepull, sketched my feet wildly to find a position to clip (never worked this out previously) and went big to catch the jug at the end of the difficulties! 10min sat in a painful kneebar in shorts were needed to recovery before the relative formality of the 7b finish. Proper bo! Visitation (7b) to warm-down: OS went tits up; easy RP.
S - Much later start back to Kilnsey. Bolt-2-bolt on Zero Option (7c+) getting move by move beta from Willy Bob. RP next go and tried the other start Soft-Zero Option (8a) whilst lowering off. Did that quick too, so did another 7b retro-flash (Vizzy Vu (7b)) warm-down. Midges came out and I ran away.
2
In reply to hms:
Yes, that's the one. I can't remember the route well enough to be sure (only went up once) but I think that's what I ended up doing... it helped but it was still draggy from the traverse left at the bottom. Possibly I could have made a different line of clips work down there.
Yes, that's the one. I can't remember the route well enough to be sure (only went up once) but I think that's what I ended up doing... it helped but it was still draggy from the traverse left at the bottom. Possibly I could have made a different line of clips work down there.
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks for the stats Tony. Yeah, St Bees is well worth a visit!
M - Rest
T - Bouldering, TCA. Ticked some of the easier (i.e. actually V3) problems on the blue (V5-V8) circuit.
W - 9.5km run
T - Cheddar, Freaky Wall. There was a pair on Shock of the New, so I went and did Manchmals (7b+) instead. Really cool route, and had a decent flash attempt (it was very well chalked!). Went steady second go.
F - 6.5km run. Beautiful evening at Wintour's leap, on Gendarmerie (E4 5c). We were the only pair on the crag!
S - Rest
S - Routes at UCR. Comprehensively shut down by the pink 7a ('corkscrew' wall). About 4 attempts on the green 7b by the entrance. Kept falling off getting onto the headwall, but it should go next time. Is this the 7b you were talking about a couple of weeks ago hms? Try a L foot on the splat, drop knee, first move is static then... Unless there's a height issue!
I'll likely be away next week, in France. Back for week 486!
STG
Get on Sunset Buttress and/or Spacehunter Wall before the summer restrictions. Not likely
Get back on some trad! 1 outing, 1 E4, not bad.
Get some core back. Managed one session, should fit one in this week too.
MTG
Sub-90 in Bristol half in September. The running is ticking over ok.
Start working through my ticklist of E4s. Star Wars (E4 5c), Resurrection (E4 6a), Mother Africa (E4 6a), Right Wall (E5 6a), ...
LTG
Snowdonia marathon 2017. I'll have to be very quick on the 1st January if I want to get a place
Get my act together and organise a trip to Orkney. Summer 2017?
Emigrate to the EU
BHAG
The Long Hope Route
Black Bean. Yeah, it's been in the back of my mind since that video of Arnaud Petit, so I might as well put it down here
> Nick Russell - Sounds like a good trip to the Lakes. I've never been to St Bees but it looks ace.
Thanks for the stats Tony. Yeah, St Bees is well worth a visit!
M - Rest
T - Bouldering, TCA. Ticked some of the easier (i.e. actually V3) problems on the blue (V5-V8) circuit.
W - 9.5km run
T - Cheddar, Freaky Wall. There was a pair on Shock of the New, so I went and did Manchmals (7b+) instead. Really cool route, and had a decent flash attempt (it was very well chalked!). Went steady second go.
F - 6.5km run. Beautiful evening at Wintour's leap, on Gendarmerie (E4 5c). We were the only pair on the crag!
S - Rest
S - Routes at UCR. Comprehensively shut down by the pink 7a ('corkscrew' wall). About 4 attempts on the green 7b by the entrance. Kept falling off getting onto the headwall, but it should go next time. Is this the 7b you were talking about a couple of weeks ago hms? Try a L foot on the splat, drop knee, first move is static then... Unless there's a height issue!
I'll likely be away next week, in France. Back for week 486!
STG
MTG
LTG
BHAG
In reply to Nick Russell:
the pink on the corkscrew wall is very hard - distinctly 7a+ I thought.
no the 7b I was grumbly about a few weeks back was pink spotty just to the right of the pink 7a. Massive move off the deck.
the green 7b was the one I wasn't getting on all that well with with Ben on Friday. There is a pretty much straight up move just before clip3 which is very long and I just wasn't getting the length.
the pink on the corkscrew wall is very hard - distinctly 7a+ I thought.
no the 7b I was grumbly about a few weeks back was pink spotty just to the right of the pink 7a. Massive move off the deck.
the green 7b was the one I wasn't getting on all that well with with Ben on Friday. There is a pretty much straight up move just before clip3 which is very long and I just wasn't getting the length.
In reply to jas128:
Hello, and welcome, D1.
No introductions necessary, your mum's told us everything about you
Is this the first parent/child combo in fit club history? I think that's great.
Hello, and welcome, D1.
No introductions necessary, your mum's told us everything about you
Is this the first parent/child combo in fit club history? I think that's great.
Sorry for this addendum, but I may not be able to post next week and I'm desperate to share: I got Pearl Harbour this evening! 7a!!!? Very pleased with myself indeed
8
In reply to Emily:
Well done Emily, nice one
If thats a "someday" goal achieved already, you need to think of the next one!
Well done Emily, nice one
If thats a "someday" goal achieved already, you need to think of the next one!
Post edited at 21:59
1
1
In reply to hms:
Yeah, I found that move a bit pokey. It always felt like I was going to drop it (and some interaction between the rope and my arm meant there was a decent loop of slack out: not a good thing above bolt 2).
I was considering trying the pink spotty one... maybe I'll pick something else.
Yeah, I found that move a bit pokey. It always felt like I was going to drop it (and some interaction between the rope and my arm meant there was a decent loop of slack out: not a good thing above bolt 2).
I was considering trying the pink spotty one... maybe I'll pick something else.
In reply to Tyler:
Dominatrix - feels such a long and wild trip, despite it not actually being that long! My tip.... do not clip the draw in the base of the grove until you hit the good flatty. It feels a bit hairy as it is a fair few moves further, but you are not much higher (the extra moves are largely sideways / hand shuffling). Saves a bit of energy for the finish compared to clipping slightly lower down, off the LH side-pull / RH gaston.
That presence of mind is easier said than done, mind. I went up Dominatrix a few weeks ago, for the first time in around 3 years (to get the clips in for Drag Queen). Despite reminding myself, I got boxed trying to clip from a gaston in the base of the groove.
Re Cold Steal, a great route but very tenuous and conditions dependent (I'm working Stolen - concentrating on linking the more positive upper part of Cold Steal with the boulder problem of Stolen, just above the belay, with a view to finally linking into the lower bit of Cold Section in autumn).
Dominatrix - feels such a long and wild trip, despite it not actually being that long! My tip.... do not clip the draw in the base of the grove until you hit the good flatty. It feels a bit hairy as it is a fair few moves further, but you are not much higher (the extra moves are largely sideways / hand shuffling). Saves a bit of energy for the finish compared to clipping slightly lower down, off the LH side-pull / RH gaston.
That presence of mind is easier said than done, mind. I went up Dominatrix a few weeks ago, for the first time in around 3 years (to get the clips in for Drag Queen). Despite reminding myself, I got boxed trying to clip from a gaston in the base of the groove.
Re Cold Steal, a great route but very tenuous and conditions dependent (I'm working Stolen - concentrating on linking the more positive upper part of Cold Steal with the boulder problem of Stolen, just above the belay, with a view to finally linking into the lower bit of Cold Section in autumn).
1
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers Tony. Yep I don't like just doing one thing, I get bored and need variety. A good week but ended up with the lurgy. Yuck. A fantastic bouldering session on Friday evening. Loved it! Felt good and felt like I climbed well. Really happy and feeling psyched. Pity about the man-flu. Too much MTB and too little climbing but at least I got down the wall.
Mon: Rest
Tue: MTB sweet spots (15 miles)
Wed: MTB race start practices (18 miles)
Thu: Rest
Fri: MTB recovery ride (12 miles) / Bouldering - ace session, climbed well and flashing V3/4 circuit. Flashing V3 in cave.
Sat: Rest
Sun: MTB 12 mile Cannock Chase social ride
Aims For This Week:
A balance of activities, focus on variety and fun
Climbing: 2–3x 1/3
Bike: 2–3x 3/3
Get an indoor V5/6 ticked.
Get on Too Drunk. Too wet
Lead a trad route if it's dry enough. Nope
STGs:
Climb consistently (2-3 times per week)
Tick indoor V3/4 circuit (reds) 2/?
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V5/6) 0/2
Attend skiing lesson
Lead 1x Diff before July 18th
Complete 1st row on indoor routes pyramid 0/8
MTGs (before end 2016):
Complete the Mids XC Series
Race in the National at Cannock
Complete 1st row on outdoor bouldering pyramid (Font 6C/+) 2/8
Sleeping with the Flowers 6C+ (Roaches)
High Speed Imp Act 7A (Churnet)
Spellbound 7A+ (Churnet)
Ousal Low 7B (Churnet)
Low Speed Imp Act 7B (Churnet)
Get competent at skiing
LTGs (before end 2017):
Boulder 7B
Lead a Severe
Do a Scottish skiing trip
Winter III
Kili or Elbrus (and ski back down if Elbrus)
BHAGs:
Boulder 8A
Winter V
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Be happy leading any reasonable multi-pitch route in the mountains
Some classic Alpine routes
Cheers Tony. Yep I don't like just doing one thing, I get bored and need variety. A good week but ended up with the lurgy. Yuck. A fantastic bouldering session on Friday evening. Loved it! Felt good and felt like I climbed well. Really happy and feeling psyched. Pity about the man-flu. Too much MTB and too little climbing but at least I got down the wall.
Mon: Rest
Tue: MTB sweet spots (15 miles)
Wed: MTB race start practices (18 miles)
Thu: Rest
Fri: MTB recovery ride (12 miles) / Bouldering - ace session, climbed well and flashing V3/4 circuit. Flashing V3 in cave.
Sat: Rest
Sun: MTB 12 mile Cannock Chase social ride
Aims For This Week:
A balance of activities, focus on variety and fun
Climbing: 2–3x 1/3
Bike: 2–3x 3/3
Get an indoor V5/6 ticked.
Get on Too Drunk. Too wet
Lead a trad route if it's dry enough. Nope
STGs:
Climb consistently (2-3 times per week)
Tick indoor V3/4 circuit (reds) 2/?
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V5/6) 0/2
Attend skiing lesson
Lead 1x Diff before July 18th
Complete 1st row on indoor routes pyramid 0/8
MTGs (before end 2016):
Complete the Mids XC Series
Race in the National at Cannock
Complete 1st row on outdoor bouldering pyramid (Font 6C/+) 2/8
Sleeping with the Flowers 6C+ (Roaches)
High Speed Imp Act 7A (Churnet)
Spellbound 7A+ (Churnet)
Ousal Low 7B (Churnet)
Low Speed Imp Act 7B (Churnet)
Get competent at skiing
LTGs (before end 2017):
Boulder 7B
Lead a Severe
Do a Scottish skiing trip
Winter III
Kili or Elbrus (and ski back down if Elbrus)
BHAGs:
Boulder 8A
Winter V
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Be happy leading any reasonable multi-pitch route in the mountains
Some classic Alpine routes
In reply to heelhookofglory:
I don't climb trad but it seems like there is a huge disparity between these two goals, I guess it is to do with the mental aspect of it? Isn't a severe somewhere about f4 for difficulty? Considering you are unlikely to find a 7B boulder move on anything less than f8a, it seems you are allowing a massive surplus of ability between those grades!
I'm not disparaging, I'm genuinely interested in your reasons.
> LTGs (before end 2017):
> Boulder 7B
> Lead a Severe
I don't climb trad but it seems like there is a huge disparity between these two goals, I guess it is to do with the mental aspect of it? Isn't a severe somewhere about f4 for difficulty? Considering you are unlikely to find a 7B boulder move on anything less than f8a, it seems you are allowing a massive surplus of ability between those grades!
I'm not disparaging, I'm genuinely interested in your reasons.
1
In reply to TonyB:
Mon
Tue - Bouldering and circuits
Wed - Conditioning
Thur - It was a really muggy day. I had planned to continue what is turning into a siege on Aberration. After a 3 goes I was getting a bit frustrated with the lack of progress, so went across to the Embankment. Climbed Mind of a Turbot (7b) 2nd go and made the moves on a slightly dampStone the Loach (7c). Would be very keen to finish this.
Fri
Sat
Sun - In the Peak District. Had several goes at Sardine (7b+) and really should have got it.
I've decided to take a break from Aberration. I think what I enjoy the most is fast redpoints, so I'll concentrate on getting some quick ticks and come back to Aberration in the autumn.
Mon
Tue - Bouldering and circuits
Wed - Conditioning
Thur - It was a really muggy day. I had planned to continue what is turning into a siege on Aberration. After a 3 goes I was getting a bit frustrated with the lack of progress, so went across to the Embankment. Climbed Mind of a Turbot (7b) 2nd go and made the moves on a slightly dampStone the Loach (7c). Would be very keen to finish this.
Fri
Sat
Sun - In the Peak District. Had several goes at Sardine (7b+) and really should have got it.
I've decided to take a break from Aberration. I think what I enjoy the most is fast redpoints, so I'll concentrate on getting some quick ticks and come back to Aberration in the autumn.
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks Tony. Just need to get out on rock again. Made some really bad weather choices this week so only at the wall
M - conditioning
T - AM physio
PM Brookes CapPow
W - fingerboard/conditioning
T - lead/Boulder Big Rock
F - rest
S - Boulder/campus climbing unit
S - Boulder/conditioning climbing unit
Thanks Tony. Just need to get out on rock again. Made some really bad weather choices this week so only at the wall
M - conditioning
T - AM physio
PM Brookes CapPow
W - fingerboard/conditioning
T - lead/Boulder Big Rock
F - rest
S - Boulder/campus climbing unit
S - Boulder/conditioning climbing unit
In reply to Dandan:
It does read a little oddly with no context so thanks for asking.
I've always suffered from a fear of heights and have issues with anxiety so getting myself to a crag to climb routes (or even to the wall) is a huge obstacle for me. Over the years I've done a 'beat your fear of heights course' (which was actually fantastic), read more books than you can imagine on the topic of fear and anxiety and slowly chipped away at it. I ended up with a mild depression at one point as it was stopping me from doing something that I love - climbing. I've written quite a bit about my progress on my blog for anyone interested in such ramblings: http://www.steveperryclimber.com/category/confidence-fear/
So yes, there is a huge difference in skill level in those two grades and I know that technically I could jump on most Severe graded routes right now and have no issues but it's fear and anxiety that stops me and working towards that goal is me working through those issues. For me, just tying into a rope and climbing a route is a huge achievement and I'm not letting it beat me.
I've gone from never wanting to go near a rope (or even a crag/wall!) to leading up to HVD so far. I've also seconded a 10-pitch mountain route in N Wales and climbed water ice in Rjukan for 10 days. I've come a long way over the last 5 years or so and I'm proud of where I'm at but I agree that having parallel goals of bouldering 7B and leading a Severe in the same timeframe does look quite odd!
It does read a little oddly with no context so thanks for asking.
I've always suffered from a fear of heights and have issues with anxiety so getting myself to a crag to climb routes (or even to the wall) is a huge obstacle for me. Over the years I've done a 'beat your fear of heights course' (which was actually fantastic), read more books than you can imagine on the topic of fear and anxiety and slowly chipped away at it. I ended up with a mild depression at one point as it was stopping me from doing something that I love - climbing. I've written quite a bit about my progress on my blog for anyone interested in such ramblings: http://www.steveperryclimber.com/category/confidence-fear/
So yes, there is a huge difference in skill level in those two grades and I know that technically I could jump on most Severe graded routes right now and have no issues but it's fear and anxiety that stops me and working towards that goal is me working through those issues. For me, just tying into a rope and climbing a route is a huge achievement and I'm not letting it beat me.
I've gone from never wanting to go near a rope (or even a crag/wall!) to leading up to HVD so far. I've also seconded a 10-pitch mountain route in N Wales and climbed water ice in Rjukan for 10 days. I've come a long way over the last 5 years or so and I'm proud of where I'm at but I agree that having parallel goals of bouldering 7B and leading a Severe in the same timeframe does look quite odd!
4
In reply to heelhookofglory:
Wow, in that case I completely understand!
A friend of mine has a fear of heights that he eventually gave in to and now just boulders, but he seems happy enough with that choice, it's really impressive how hard you are working to overcome that fear!
Wow, in that case I completely understand!
A friend of mine has a fear of heights that he eventually gave in to and now just boulders, but he seems happy enough with that choice, it's really impressive how hard you are working to overcome that fear!
1
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. It has been hard and I quite often question my sanity but I guess I'm just stubborn. I've also seen first hand how living with anxiety can really limit your life and I'm determined to not have that happen to me.
As long as your friend is happy doing that then that is wonderful and they shouldn't ever feel any pressure to do otherwise.
Thanks Dan. It has been hard and I quite often question my sanity but I guess I'm just stubborn. I've also seen first hand how living with anxiety can really limit your life and I'm determined to not have that happen to me.
As long as your friend is happy doing that then that is wonderful and they shouldn't ever feel any pressure to do otherwise.
Post edited at 14:37
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