South Devon

South Devon cover photo
Author Pete Saunders
Published The Climbers Club (2018)
ISBN 978-0-957281-57-8

Review

South Devon offers a wealth of varied climbing. This sister guide to Dartmoor (2017) covers all the climbing outside of the granite mass. Whilst the main attractions for visiting climbers are the adventure routes and Deep Water Solos on Torbay limestone, there are enough sport climbs, boulder problems, and trad climbs to keep locals busy for years.

South Devon offers a wealth of varied climbing. This sister guide to Dartmoor (2017) covers all the climbing outside of the granite mass. Whilst the main attractions for visiting climbers are the adventure routes and Deep Water Solos on Torbay limestone, there are enough sport climbs, boulder problems, and trad climbs to keep locals busy for years. Now THE comprehensive guide to climbing in South Devon; with details of 74 crags and over 1800 routes, including recent developments.


Crags covered by this Guide
Devon crags# climbsRocktypeFaces
Anstey's Cove146LimestoneS
Ansteys Cove Area Bouldering20Limestoneall
Ash Hole29LimestoneN
Ausewell Rocks11QuartziteS
Babbacombe68LimestoneNE
Battery Gardens27UNKNOWNall
Beer Head2ChalkS
Berry Head (Coastguard Cliffs)180LimestoneS
Berry Head (The Old Redoubt)113LimestoneE
Berry Head Quarry83LimestoneN
Bigbury Bay (Bantham Hand)4ShaleW
Black Crag (Devon)14LimestoneNW
Black Head24LimestoneE
Bolt Tail20SchistW
Breakwater/Shoalstone Beach52Limestone?
Bulley Cleave Quarry3Limestone?
Chipley Quarry9Pillow lavaSW
Chudleigh Rocks177LimestoneS
Chudleigh Rocks (North Face)64LimestoneN
Churston (Sea cliffs and quarries)74LimestoneN
Churston Cove25LimestoneSE
Cliff Road Crag26UNKNOWNS
Cod Rock8Limestoneall
Cove Quarry17ShaleS
Cradle Rock Buttress19LimestoneE
Daddyhole Main Cliff42LimestoneE
Daddyhole Upper Cliff55LimestoneS
Durl Head38Limestoneall
Elender Cove11SchistS
Gammon Head10SchistS
Hazard Quarry36LimestoneS
Hazel Tor6Mica schistSW
Hexton Quarry6LimestoneS
Hope Cove2ShaleW
Hope's Nose37LimestoneW
Hopes Nose beach33LimestoneS
Kerswell Quarry3LimestoneN
Ladram Bay Stacks8Sandstone (soft)S
Landcombe Cove28SlateSE
Leigh Tor37Hornstoneall
London Bridge36Limestoneall
Long Quarry Point92LimestoneE
Meadfoot Quarry28LimestoneSE
Morwell Rocks40SlateW
Mount Batten0LimestoneN
Parsons Hole (aka Telegraph Hole)34LimestoneSE
Petit Tor Point34Limestone?
Pig's Nose Beach24UNKNOWNSW
Pilchard Cove12ShaleSE
Plimsoll Line Cliff8Limestone?
Plymouth Hoe75LimestoneS
Prawle Point14SchistS
Radford Quarry13LimestoneW
Richmond Walk14Limestone?
River Dart Rocks2LimestoneNE
Saddle Point5Limestone?
Sanctuary Wall32LimestoneS
Sandy Bay3Sandstone (soft)?
Sharkham Point15LimestoneE
Sharp Tor (Devon coast)11SchistE
St Anchorites Rock8Doleriteall
St Marys Beach12UNKNOWNNE
Steeple Cove2SchistSW
The Parson and The Clerk2Sandstone (soft)?
Thurlstone Rock1Conglomerateall
Torbryan Quarry40LimestoneW
Torcross Boulders39ShaleE
Walls Hill North26LimestoneN
White Rock5Limestone?