UKC

South Devon

South Devon cover photo
Author Pete Saunders
Published The Climbers Club (2018)
ISBN 978-0-957281-57-8

Review

South Devon offers a wealth of varied climbing. This sister guide to Dartmoor (2017) covers all the climbing outside of the granite mass. Whilst the main attractions for visiting climbers are the adventure routes and Deep Water Solos on Torbay limestone, there are enough sport climbs, boulder problems, and trad climbs to keep locals busy for years.

South Devon offers a wealth of varied climbing. This sister guide to Dartmoor (2017) covers all the climbing outside of the granite mass. Whilst the main attractions for visiting climbers are the adventure routes and Deep Water Solos on Torbay limestone, there are enough sport climbs, boulder problems, and trad climbs to keep locals busy for years. Now THE comprehensive guide to climbing in South Devon; with details of 74 crags and over 1800 routes, including recent developments.


Crags covered by this Guide
Devon crags# climbsRocktypeFaces
Anstey's Cove152LimestoneS
Ansteys Cove Area Bouldering23Limestoneall
Ash Hole29LimestoneN
Ausewell Rocks16QuartziteS
Babbacombe Crags98LimestoneNE
Bantham Hand5Shaleall
Battery Gardens17Limestoneall
Beer Head2ChalkS
Beesands33Schistall
Berry Head - Coastguard Cliffs180LimestoneS
Berry Head - The Old Redoubt126LimestoneE
Berry Head Quarry84LimestoneN
Black Crag14LimestoneNW
Black Head25LimestoneE
Bolt Tail21SchistW
Broadbridge Quarry7LimestoneSW
Broadsands Beach1LimestoneE
Buckfastleigh5LimestoneNE
Chapel Hill13LimestoneW
Chipley Quarry11Pillow lavaSW
Chudleigh Rocks - North Face67LimestoneN
Chudleigh Rocks - South Face189LimestoneS
Churston Cove23LimestoneSE
Churston Quarries71LimestoneN
Cliff Road Crag25LimestoneS
Cod Rock8Limestoneall
Cove Quarry17ShaleS
Cradle Rock Buttress21LimestoneE
Daddyhole Main Cliff48LimestoneE
Daddyhole Upper Cliff82LimestoneS
Durl Head40Limestoneall
Elender Cove12SchistS
Gammon Head10SchistS
Hazard Quarry45LimestoneS
Hazel Tor6Mica schistall
Hexton Quarry6LimestoneS
Holcombe Area4Sandstone (soft)SE
Hope Cove2ShaleS
Hope's Nose40LimestoneW
Hope's Nose Beach35LimestoneS
Kerswell Quarry3LimestoneN
Ladram Bay Stacks9Sandstone (soft)all
Landcombe Cove33SlateSE
Leigh Tor37Quartziteall
London Bridge42Limestoneall
Long Quarry Point97LimestoneE
Meadfoot Quarry26LimestoneSE
Morwell Rocks40SlateW
Mount Batten0LimestoneN
Petit Tor Point40LimestoneE
Pig's Nose Beach25Schistall
Pilchard Cove10SlateS
Plimsoll Line Cliff14LimestoneS
Plymouth Hoe80LimestoneS
Prawle Point19SchistS
Radford Quarry14LimestoneS
Richmond Walk14LimestoneE
Saddle Point7LimestoneSW
Sanctuary Wall33LimestoneS
Sandy Bay4Sandstone (soft)W
Sharkham Point and St. Marys Bay25BasaltNE
Sharp Tor10Schistall
Shoalstone Beach55LimestoneN
St. Anchorites Rock9Doleriteall
Steeple Cove3SchistS
Telegraph Hole37LimestoneSE
Thurlstone Rock1Conglomerateall
Torbryan Quarry46LimestoneW
Torcross Boulders38Slateall
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