UKC Logbook - Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes

Contributed by steveb2006 Mar/20 - This public ticklist has been seen 2,795 times

All Birchen Edge routes from the 1981 Derwent Valley guide. Having done the great majority back in the 80's it became a vague ambition to comlete them all. For this list Midshipman is the original HVS version - finishing R. Peaches gets a passing mention in the guide as an 'unsubtantiated claim' so isnt listed here.

The Keel, Birchen. © KevinGibbs — The Keel, Birchen.
© KevinGibbs, May 2013

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	User	Percentage	Latest Log
1st	steveb2006	100%	2 Jul, 2024
2nd	mikej	94%	Mar, 2022
3rd	Hidden	75%	25 May
4th	Hidden	63%	14 Sep, 2024
5th	milanboez	24%	8 Mar
6th	Hidden	7%	14 May, 2023

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Wishlist Routes

Logged Routes

Darken logged

Cluster markers

Distribution of grades

Trad

Bouldering

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

The serene face of a dyno on Orpheus Wall showing off the latest in tutu hardware © Justin Reid

Telescope Tunnel claims another victim! © highaltitudebarista

"Pensioner's at play" he said © Josh Willett

Christine Leads Yo Ho Crack whilst Mary, belaying, nonchalantly practices her finger jamming technique © chrissy

Getting your barnacles up the bulge ain't as straight forward as first thought. © Justin Reid

Making the static move through the crux on Orpheus Wall © Justin Reid

Rich seconding Barbette Buttress © Danger

Julian leading Camperdown Crawl (VS 4c), Birchen Edge, Peak District © TN

Trafalgar wall. Warm down fun S 4b. Birchen. © Chalky Cat

William Marshall (5) climbing The Gangplank © malc

Add	Climb name	Grade	Ticks?	Height		Crag name
1	Bosun's Nose	S 4c	255	?		Birchen Edge
2	Bosun's Crack	VD	445	4m		Birchen Edge
3	Bosun's Wall	HVD 4a	346	5m		Birchen Edge
4	The Gangplank	M *	1339	10m		Birchen Edge
5	Visitors Only	HS 4a *	780	8m		Birchen Edge
6	All Aboard	D	766	6m		Birchen Edge
7	Poop Deck Crack	S 4a	525	12m		Birchen Edge
8	The Crow's Nest	VS 4c **	1550	14m		Birchen Edge
9	Land Ho!	HS 4c *	298	12m		Birchen Edge
10	Scrim Net	f6A **	245	12m		Birchen Edge
11	The Funnel	D *	905	12m		Birchen Edge
12	Lookout Arête	S 4a *	429	12m		Birchen Edge
13	Kiss Me Hardy	HVD 4a *	1012	12m		Birchen Edge
14	Victory Crack	HS 4b *	1316	14m		Birchen Edge
15	Victory Gully	S 4a *	555	12m		Birchen Edge
16	Emma's Slab	VS 4b *	1126	14m		Birchen Edge
17	Emma's Dilemma	S 4a *	2502	14m		Birchen Edge
18	Emma's Temptation	HVD 4c *	2242	14m		Birchen Edge
19	Emma's Delight	HS 4b *	1375	14m		Birchen Edge
20	Deluded	VS 4c *	499	12m		Birchen Edge
21	Emma's Delusion	S 4a *	884	12m		Birchen Edge
22	Artificial	VD	242	?		Birchen Edge
23	Oak Gully	M	139	?		Birchen Edge
24	Oak Tower	VD	88	?		Birchen Edge
25	Heather Corner	M	58	?		Birchen Edge
26	Heather Corner Slab	M	62	?		Birchen Edge
27	The Rigging	D	75	?		Birchen Edge
28	Captain's Bunk	HS 4b *	1177	12m		Birchen Edge
29	Captain's Crawl	M	299	?		Birchen Edge
30	Telescope Tunnel	M **	932	14m		Birchen Edge
31	Porthole Buttress	S 4a *	549	24m		Birchen Edge
32	Porthole Direct	VS 4c **	2210	12m		Birchen Edge
33	Blind Eye	S 4b *	421	14m		Birchen Edge
34	Nelson's Slab	HS 5a *	1125	14m		Birchen Edge
35	Left Ladder Chimney	VD	347	12m		Birchen Edge
36	Spliced	S 4a	23	?		Birchen Edge
37	Right Ladder Chimney	HVD 4a	231	12m		Birchen Edge
38	Midshipman / Plain Sailing	E2 6a ***	173	12m		Birchen Edge
39	Nor'-easter	HVS 5a	30	?		Birchen Edge
40	Sail Buttress	HS 4b **	3663	14m		Birchen Edge
41	Sail Chimney	S 4a **	1862	14m		Birchen Edge
42	Topsail	VS 4c **	4495	12m		Birchen Edge
43	Spinnaker	VS 5a	29	14m		Birchen Edge
44	Monument Chimney Crack	VD *	909	14m		Birchen Edge
45	Monument Chimney	D *	1152	14m		Birchen Edge
46	Pillar Wall	S 4a	261	14m		Birchen Edge
47	The Bow	S 4a *	632	14m		Birchen Edge
48	Orpheus Wall	HVS 5c **	934	14m		Birchen Edge
49	Monument Gully	VD *	459	14m		Birchen Edge
50	Monument Gully Buttress	HVS 5b *	676	8m		Birchen Edge
51	The Keel	HVS 5b *	303	8m		Birchen Edge
52	The Boom	HVS 5a	3	90m	• 3	Birchen Edge
53	The Promenade	D **	2045	16m		Birchen Edge
54	The Promenade Direct	HVD 4a *	1398	10m		Birchen Edge
55	The Chain	S 4a *	1177	12m		Birchen Edge
56	Hollybush Gully	VD 4b *	609	10m		Birchen Edge
57	Anchor Traverse	HS 4b *	360	12m		Birchen Edge
58	Powder Monkey Parade	S 4b **	2890	16m		Birchen Edge
59	Hangover	HVS 5b	126	12m		Birchen Edge
60	Admiral's Progress	D *	845	12m		Birchen Edge
61	Polaris Exit	D *	382	12m		Birchen Edge
62	Camperdown Crawl	HS 4c **	3250	14m		Birchen Edge
63	Barnacle Bulge	HS 4c *	1709	14m		Birchen Edge
64	Trafalgar Crack	VD 4a *	4359	14m		Birchen Edge
65	Trafalgar Wall	S 4b **	3848	12m		Birchen Edge
66	The Long Promenade	HS 4b *	89	50m		Birchen Edge
67	Sailor's Crack	S 4b *	507	4m		Birchen Edge
68	Sailor's Problem	VD	1055	6m		Birchen Edge
69	Reef Knot	S 4b *	1008	6m		Birchen Edge
70	Nautical Crack	VD *	1689	6m		Birchen Edge
71	Yo-Ho Crack	VD *	2644	6m		Birchen Edge
72	Rum Wall	VD	1209	6m		Birchen Edge
73	Stoker's Break	VD	1342	6m		Birchen Edge
74	Stoked	S 4a *	1863	6m		Birchen Edge
75	Copenhagen Corner	S 4b	617	4m		Birchen Edge
76	Dane's Delight	HS 5b *	927	6m		Birchen Edge
77	Copenhagen Wall	VS 5a *	709	10m		Birchen Edge
78	Copenhagen Wall Traverse	V0	43	?		Birchen Edge
79	Mast Gully	M	336	10m		Birchen Edge
80	Mast Gully Ridge	VD *	777	10m		Birchen Edge
81	Mast Gully Wall	VD 4b	238	?		Birchen Edge
82	Mast Gully Crack	HS 4b *	395	10m		Birchen Edge
83	Mast Gully Buttress	VS 5a *	315	12m		Birchen Edge
84	Fo'c'sle Chimney	VD *	405	12m		Birchen Edge
85	Fo'c'sle Wall	VS 4c *	621	12m		Birchen Edge
86	Fo'c'sle Crack	S 4b *	1230	12m		Birchen Edge
87	Fo'c'sle Arête	VS 5b *	153	10m		Birchen Edge
88	Cave Gully	VD *	154	10m		Birchen Edge
89	Tar's Arête	VD 4a *	646	10m		Birchen Edge
90	Tar's Crack	VD *	770	8m		Birchen Edge
91	Tar's Wall	HVD 4b	862	8m		Birchen Edge
92	Tar's Traverse	D	499	10m		Birchen Edge
93	Tar's Climb	M	403	8m		Birchen Edge
94	Tar's Gully	D	649	10m		Birchen Edge
95	Prow Wall	M	381	8m		Birchen Edge
96	Barbette Wall	S 4a	231	6m		Birchen Edge
97	Barbette Buttress	S 4b *	594	6m		Birchen Edge
98	Cannonball Crack	S 3c	152	8m		Birchen Edge
99	Cannonball Wall	VD *	684	10m		Birchen Edge
100	Gunner's Gangway	D	470	10m		Birchen Edge
101	Lieutenant's Ladder	D	301	10m		Birchen Edge
102	Middy's Manoeuvre	HS 4c *	222	6m		Birchen Edge
103	Torpedo Tube	HVD 4a *	352	6m		Birchen Edge
104	Gunner's Groove	D	404	6m		Birchen Edge
105	Seasick Arête	f5 **	687	8m		Birchen Edge
106	Seasick Slab	f3+ *	904	8m		Birchen Edge
107	Moby Dick	S 4a	215	10m		Birchen Edge
108	Old Codger	VS 4c *	115	10m		Birchen Edge
109	Wooden Leg Wall	HVS 5c *	85	10m		Birchen Edge
110	Matelot's Meander	S 4a	185	8m		Birchen Edge
111	Yard Arm	V0-	47	7m		Birchen Edge
112	Explosion	VS 5a *	249	6m		Birchen Edge
113	Fuse	VS 5a *	416	12m		Birchen Edge
114	Gun-Cotton Groove	VD *	735	12m		Birchen Edge
115	Cook's Rib	E1 5c *	211	12m		Birchen Edge
116	Horatio's Horror	HS 4a **	814	14m		Birchen Edge
117	Horatio's Direct	VS 4c *	274	12m		Birchen Edge
118	Nelson's Nemesis	VS 4b ***	1340	16m		Birchen Edge
119	Victory Vice	VD *	201	12m		Birchen Edge
120	Device	HVS 4c	200	10m		Birchen Edge
121	Gunpowder Gully	D	164	12m		Birchen Edge
122	Gunpowder Gully Arête	S 3c	218	12m		Birchen Edge
123	Sea Dog Slab	VD	192	5m		Birchen Edge
124	Sailor's Chute	HVD 4a	96	8m		Birchen Edge
		3 e, 97 stars	99,245	1,309m	126

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