UKC

Fri Night Vid Series


Babsi Zangerl on Le Voyage (E10 7a)

In this week's Friday Night Video, we watch Babsi Zangerl attempt one of the hardest trad routes in the world: James Pearson's Le Voyage (E10 7a) at  Annot, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, France. 

The line follows a crack up a 40-metre wall that's gently overhanging and Zangerl estimated the difficulty to be around 8b+. Babsi described her experience on the route:

'I would call this line difficult but quite safe, at least for the crux section and for the following sections: the higher you get, the better placements you find on it. But the middle part of the line is definitely risky.

'It was quite a mental game to climb the traverse at 1/3 height of the wall. I was pretty nervous to place the gear there because you also need those pockets as handholds. This makes it a bit tricky to find a good way to protect this part of the climb before entering the real crux of the route.

Babsi Zangerl on Le Voyage (E10 7a)  © Andrea Cossu/Black Diamond
Babsi Zangerl on Le Voyage (E10 7a)
© Andrea Cossu/Black Diamond

'The crux is really powerful, and it requires a lot of body tension. It felt always insecure to me. Even while trying it on toprope I fell off most of the time. So, I decided to do some lead tries for keeping the motivation high and also in case I would be lucky enough to catch the final jug after this tricky technical sequence.

'Jacopo was the one who climbed the route first out of our group making the second ascent of Le Voyage; Siebe was next on the sending train. We had different beta for this route which was pretty cool to see. Everybody found his/her own method after trying all the different beta.

'We only had three days left before heading back home. The pressure was on as I racked up. I really wanted to send this perfect line. On my first try of the day, I messed up, spending too much time placing the gear and getting pumped before I even reached the crux.

'I needed to get everything perfectly dialled to save power and place the gear I needed.

'On the send, it was a real battle. But I was finally able to climb those 38 meters of perfect sandstone.'

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