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A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=669198
AJM - Thanks for the video- looks like a nice line. I must try some of the bouldering on Portland.
mrchewy - Have you seen the pull up strength protocol in Training for the New Alpinism? it’s all focussed on low rep work so should be doable. I think thefasting was trying it, not sure how long it followed it. I couldn’t find an excerpt from the book but this page describes it http://www.theclimbingdepot.co.uk/blogs/training/give-me-strength-kev-avery
Ally Smith - I really the idea of his economics approach based on opportunity cost of training. I’m surprised there isn’t more functional strength stuff in there though- dynamics (vertical jump or clap kipping pull-ups etc), core (front lever) and stability (one legged squat, typewriters, or even handstand). The problem with it is, by his own standard of opportunity cost, omission of a vital strength component renders the whole thing fairly useless for planning training.
hms - I’m enjoying the contrasting descriptions of routes from you and AJM. Do you find the outdoor bouldering helps with your route climbing?
hokkyo - Ooh i see you have a marathon coming up. How are you feeling about that? Have you planned out any longer training runs?
planetmarshall - Did you get your 2 core sessions done? (Easy to skip on these but it’s so worth the effort!)
AlanLittle - Good to hear you feeling good after a coaching session. I find it takes a while to digest that sort of thing- but do give us a run down of a few key pointers you found valuable at some point.
Tyler - Well you got some pretty intense beta last week from several people- no excuses now!
guy127917 - you need to use this down time to address injuries not aggravate them!
TheFasting - Thanks for posting a video last week hope you got some value out of comments?
mattrm - how long can a few pushups, crunches and pull-ups take? (if you have the energy, finding a ’10 minute workout’ and getting used to it may be quite beneficial)
thesheep - Yeah I’m sure you’re lats are getting bigger from all the swimming but recruiting them for climbing isn’t going to come naturally
biscuit - ‘a rest of shame’ i like that, will use it as a mantra next time I get shaky on a trad route.
just tintin - ‘Miles off’ is in your head I’m sure- my guess is that it’s only going to take one or two intense training sessions and you’ll feel ‘peak’ again.
Dandan - Think you’re in Kalymnos, let us know how it’s going at some point or when you get back.
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In reply to guy127917:
It's good yeah.
Let us know if you do and I can make some suggestions. There's some good stuff out there although the quality varies a fair bit.
Will report tomorrow - in Morzine at the minute back Tuesday morning so it makes sense to combine Monday in to make a long week...
> AJM - Thanks for the video- looks like a nice line. I must try some of the bouldering on Portland.
It's good yeah.
Let us know if you do and I can make some suggestions. There's some good stuff out there although the quality varies a fair bit.
Will report tomorrow - in Morzine at the minute back Tuesday morning so it makes sense to combine Monday in to make a long week...
In reply to guy127917:
3rd week of #notraining. This week I did 3 bouldering sessions and 1 pathetic gym session. All I really achieved at the latter was some videos of my current level of bendiness, hoping to compare in 6 months or something.
Pretty much aborted my plans to get to the alps at the end of the month, but hoping to do a few days in Pembroke from next friday and then maybe somewhere abroad for the following week (possibly Finale Ligure with rockbusters).
Weight 80kg, going up
3rd week of #notraining. This week I did 3 bouldering sessions and 1 pathetic gym session. All I really achieved at the latter was some videos of my current level of bendiness, hoping to compare in 6 months or something.
Pretty much aborted my plans to get to the alps at the end of the month, but hoping to do a few days in Pembroke from next friday and then maybe somewhere abroad for the following week (possibly Finale Ligure with rockbusters).
Weight 80kg, going up
In reply to guy127917:
Yeah I always appreciate feedback on my climbing. I don't have any ego attached to this, I just want to be the best climber I can be, so any feedback is welcome for me.
I've been knee deep in moving since Jotunheimen, all August, so my training is sort of hit and miss now. Been doing bodyweight strength training at home to try to stay in shape until I have a new gym in Oslo.
Can't remember when I did these workouts but I should log the PRs so I can come back here and remember them.
Uneven push-ups: From 5 to 13 reps
Pistol squats: From 5 to 11 reps
Assisted hand-stand push-ups: From 5 to 7 reps
Tuck l-sit: From 15 seconds to 35 seconds
Hollow body hold: From 15 seconds to 42 seconds
Also did a gym session to check out what I think will be my new gym:
Did my first f6A onsight, onsighted another f6A and redpointed 2 other f6As. Starting to think this gym might be softer, but can't say I wasn't pleased by seeing new numbers in my log. Also did a bunch of f5 and f5+
Finished by doing 16 laps on the auto belay on some F4c and F4bs. Pumped as hell.
EDIT: Maybe I should link the video? I think it could show how different I am regarind confidence with indoor bouldering vs outdoor route climbing.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BX8BAJPjXZW/
Yeah I always appreciate feedback on my climbing. I don't have any ego attached to this, I just want to be the best climber I can be, so any feedback is welcome for me.
I've been knee deep in moving since Jotunheimen, all August, so my training is sort of hit and miss now. Been doing bodyweight strength training at home to try to stay in shape until I have a new gym in Oslo.
Can't remember when I did these workouts but I should log the PRs so I can come back here and remember them.
Uneven push-ups: From 5 to 13 reps
Pistol squats: From 5 to 11 reps
Assisted hand-stand push-ups: From 5 to 7 reps
Tuck l-sit: From 15 seconds to 35 seconds
Hollow body hold: From 15 seconds to 42 seconds
Also did a gym session to check out what I think will be my new gym:
Did my first f6A onsight, onsighted another f6A and redpointed 2 other f6As. Starting to think this gym might be softer, but can't say I wasn't pleased by seeing new numbers in my log. Also did a bunch of f5 and f5+
Finished by doing 16 laps on the auto belay on some F4c and F4bs. Pumped as hell.
EDIT: Maybe I should link the video? I think it could show how different I am regarind confidence with indoor bouldering vs outdoor route climbing.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BX8BAJPjXZW/
Post edited at 12:39
In reply to guy127917:
The bank holiday, or the one after?
> hoping to do a few days in Pembroke from next friday
The bank holiday, or the one after?
In reply to guy127917:
I am indeed, I'll post a full write up next week, but here for your delectation is my front lever for review:
youtube.com/watch?v=OzSr3Hn3i40&
> Dandan - Think you’re in Kalymnos, let us know how it’s going at some point or when you get back.
I am indeed, I'll post a full write up next week, but here for your delectation is my front lever for review:
youtube.com/watch?v=OzSr3Hn3i40&
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In reply to AJM:
Bank holiday yep, forgot I'm working friday so saturday->thursdayish most likely, depending on weather
Bank holiday yep, forgot I'm working friday so saturday->thursdayish most likely, depending on weather
1
In reply to guy127917:
I put the wrong week up last week. Not sure how. But for posterity, here we go:
7th - 13th
M - T - Rest
F - 15 min home workout
S - S - Rest
14th - 20th
M - S - Rest
S - 15 min home workout
The 'workout' is 15 of the following, squats, lunges, spidermans, walking planks and press-ups and currently two pullups on the fingerboard. Plus a bit of on the spot jogging and stretching. So yes, what you suggested Guy was what I've already started doing. Not sure how I put the wrong post up, but there we go.
Reworking my goals:
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Next week's goals:
Healthy diet
2 x 15 minute work out
1 5k run
I put the wrong week up last week. Not sure how. But for posterity, here we go:
7th - 13th
M - T - Rest
F - 15 min home workout
S - S - Rest
14th - 20th
M - S - Rest
S - 15 min home workout
The 'workout' is 15 of the following, squats, lunges, spidermans, walking planks and press-ups and currently two pullups on the fingerboard. Plus a bit of on the spot jogging and stretching. So yes, what you suggested Guy was what I've already started doing. Not sure how I put the wrong post up, but there we go.
Reworking my goals:
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Next week's goals:
Healthy diet
2 x 15 minute work out
1 5k run
Post edited at 18:35
In reply to guy127917:
Er... no. Actually work made a major incursion into training last week and I only managed a couple of fingerboard sessions. Starting to approach bodyweight now, but have decided to substitute the 'chisel' grip ( Which I can't really do anyway and always end up doing an openhanded grip ) with a half crimp - which necessitates removing a lot more weight. Train your weaknesses though, and all that.
Won't now be going to Kalymnos in Sept, and have instead decided to accept the UKC invitation to go to Red Rocks in November. Will be climbing with people who climb a lot harder than me, but really looking forward to it, so will be re-purposing a lot of my training time between now and then.
Saw another physio about my (right) shoulder who reckons that the actual problem is an inflammation of the biceps tendon and not a rotator cuff impingement at all, which tallies with some of the issues I've been experiencing. Doing my rehab exercises daily.
STG
Next week's goals -
* 4 leads at HVS or above (weather permitting)
* Increase FB weight to -5kg, 5 reps per hang on all grips except half crimp
* 2 trail runs, long one at the weekend.
* 1 outdoor bouldering session
MTG
OMM End October
Red Rocks in November
British Trad Routes:
The File (VS 4c)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
The Sloth (HVS 5a)
The HVSs on Hen Cloud
The Unconquerables
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
The Embankment routes at Millstone
Bouldering
Banana Finger (f6A)
Technical Master (f6B)
Crescent Arête (f5+)
LTG
The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Left Wall (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Vector (E2 5c)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) Solo (Spring 2018)
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Dalriada (E7 6b)
Something on El Capitan.
> planetmarshall - Did you get your 2 core sessions done? (Easy to skip on these but it’s so worth the effort
Er... no. Actually work made a major incursion into training last week and I only managed a couple of fingerboard sessions. Starting to approach bodyweight now, but have decided to substitute the 'chisel' grip ( Which I can't really do anyway and always end up doing an openhanded grip ) with a half crimp - which necessitates removing a lot more weight. Train your weaknesses though, and all that.
Won't now be going to Kalymnos in Sept, and have instead decided to accept the UKC invitation to go to Red Rocks in November. Will be climbing with people who climb a lot harder than me, but really looking forward to it, so will be re-purposing a lot of my training time between now and then.
Saw another physio about my (right) shoulder who reckons that the actual problem is an inflammation of the biceps tendon and not a rotator cuff impingement at all, which tallies with some of the issues I've been experiencing. Doing my rehab exercises daily.
STG
Next week's goals -
* 4 leads at HVS or above (weather permitting)
* Increase FB weight to -5kg, 5 reps per hang on all grips except half crimp
* 2 trail runs, long one at the weekend.
* 1 outdoor bouldering session
MTG
OMM End October
Red Rocks in November
British Trad Routes:
The File (VS 4c)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
The Sloth (HVS 5a)
The HVSs on Hen Cloud
The Unconquerables
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
The Embankment routes at Millstone
Bouldering
Banana Finger (f6A)
Technical Master (f6B)
Crescent Arête (f5+)
LTG
The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Left Wall (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Vector (E2 5c)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) Solo (Spring 2018)
> Scottish Winter 2017/18
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Dalriada (E7 6b)
Something on El Capitan.
In reply to guy127917:
STG: book flights for Kalymnos
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
Family holiday: resting. Can't remember the last time I had five days off from training/climbing; a quick scan of my diary suggests not this year. Won't do any harm.
M: Stopped off at The Works on the way back from the Peak to family in Norfolk, thinking it might be a suitable environment to practice some of my drills & exercises from Mr Kettle (unlike redpointing at Rubicon). But fifth day on turned out not to be such a great idea; bailed early.
T: Resting & chilling with family in Norfolk
W: Ditto
T: Ditto
F: Flight home from .uk cancelled due to apocalyptic thunderstorms. Bummer - had been hoping to drop by & watch the World Cup semis (usually less packed than the final) on Saturday.
S: Rescheduled onto an afternoon flight from Heathrow, so got the express into town and went for a nosy round the West End. Active rest? Not sure. I generally don't find urban hiking particularly restful. I like visiting London though.
S: Intended to go to the wall, but was tired & weary from two travel days (one of them unplanned) with little sleep, so stayed at home and did a fingerboard session instead. Mr K said I should try to fit this into my schedule more regularly rather than just doing it as a stopgap when I don't make it to the wall.
Alternated fingerboard sets with shoulder work, plus some eccentric wrist curls because I'm feeling what I suspect are incipient twinges of golfer's elbow, and I don't want to let them get beyond incipient twinges.
STG: book flights for Kalymnos
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
Family holiday: resting. Can't remember the last time I had five days off from training/climbing; a quick scan of my diary suggests not this year. Won't do any harm.
M: Stopped off at The Works on the way back from the Peak to family in Norfolk, thinking it might be a suitable environment to practice some of my drills & exercises from Mr Kettle (unlike redpointing at Rubicon). But fifth day on turned out not to be such a great idea; bailed early.
T: Resting & chilling with family in Norfolk
W: Ditto
T: Ditto
F: Flight home from .uk cancelled due to apocalyptic thunderstorms. Bummer - had been hoping to drop by & watch the World Cup semis (usually less packed than the final) on Saturday.
S: Rescheduled onto an afternoon flight from Heathrow, so got the express into town and went for a nosy round the West End. Active rest? Not sure. I generally don't find urban hiking particularly restful. I like visiting London though.
S: Intended to go to the wall, but was tired & weary from two travel days (one of them unplanned) with little sleep, so stayed at home and did a fingerboard session instead. Mr K said I should try to fit this into my schedule more regularly rather than just doing it as a stopgap when I don't make it to the wall.
Alternated fingerboard sets with shoulder work, plus some eccentric wrist curls because I'm feeling what I suspect are incipient twinges of golfer's elbow, and I don't want to let them get beyond incipient twinges.
Post edited at 20:10
In reply to planetmarshall:
Clearly your physio knows more than I do. However, I had a biceps tendon inflammation last year, and in addition to doing my physio exercises, every evening when I went to bed I massaged it firmly and then laid a hot water bottle on it for a quarter of an hour or so. This was basically an attempt to simulate the massage & heat treatment my physio had also been doing a couple of times a week. Seemed to help. I used arnica cream for the massage, which I think I picked up from Steph Davis' blog.
> Saw another physio about my (right) shoulder who reckons that the actual problem is an inflammation of the biceps tendon and not a rotator cuff impingement at all, which tallies with some of the issues I've been experiencing. Doing my rehab exercises daily.
Clearly your physio knows more than I do. However, I had a biceps tendon inflammation last year, and in addition to doing my physio exercises, every evening when I went to bed I massaged it firmly and then laid a hot water bottle on it for a quarter of an hour or so. This was basically an attempt to simulate the massage & heat treatment my physio had also been doing a couple of times a week. Seemed to help. I used arnica cream for the massage, which I think I picked up from Steph Davis' blog.
1
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
I can do it on the small monos but not on my pinkies! Heading into party trick territory with pinkies surely?!
I can do it on the small monos but not on my pinkies! Heading into party trick territory with pinkies surely?!
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks for the advice Guy - I'll have a look later. I've tried every protocol going but nothing has ever worked, it is a natural weakness I reckon. Three has always been the general max but usually I can do a couple of mono pullups, so that's all I need. I'm pretty harsh on myself as to what I call a pullup - all the way down, relax and then back up, non of this keeping the arms bent.
Mon - Wrecked from Rubicon. Rest.
Tue - Still mullered. Stretching and antags.
Wed - Stretching and antags. Super super tight.
Thu - Paul's board. Warm up on 30deg and then basically spent a while farting about trying maximal moves, pullups - 10 in 6 min. Also before that did 2xpullups properly.Oh, and some antag work.
Fri - Stretching.
Sat - Stretching.
Sun - Nowt.
Hardly anything this week as went to my parents on Friday for the weekend. Suffered from two days at Rubicon but the back recovered and no lasting aches.
Felt twice as strong on Paul's board compared to last week. Decided a long time ago I needed more all round strength but then got injured, so nice to finally be doing something about it. I think it'll make the biggest difference to my climbing, my fingers will come back eventually and there's a lot of KGs to lose at some point before next summer but I'm happily on the right track.
Goal - Salbit West Ridge (32 pitch ED1) next summer.
Thanks for the advice Guy - I'll have a look later. I've tried every protocol going but nothing has ever worked, it is a natural weakness I reckon. Three has always been the general max but usually I can do a couple of mono pullups, so that's all I need. I'm pretty harsh on myself as to what I call a pullup - all the way down, relax and then back up, non of this keeping the arms bent.
Mon - Wrecked from Rubicon. Rest.
Tue - Still mullered. Stretching and antags.
Wed - Stretching and antags. Super super tight.
Thu - Paul's board. Warm up on 30deg and then basically spent a while farting about trying maximal moves, pullups - 10 in 6 min. Also before that did 2xpullups properly.Oh, and some antag work.
Fri - Stretching.
Sat - Stretching.
Sun - Nowt.
Hardly anything this week as went to my parents on Friday for the weekend. Suffered from two days at Rubicon but the back recovered and no lasting aches.
Felt twice as strong on Paul's board compared to last week. Decided a long time ago I needed more all round strength but then got injured, so nice to finally be doing something about it. I think it'll make the biggest difference to my climbing, my fingers will come back eventually and there's a lot of KGs to lose at some point before next summer but I'm happily on the right track.
Goal - Salbit West Ridge (32 pitch ED1) next summer.
In reply to guy127917:
It's not perfect by any means, but as an assessment tool I think it has value - obviously you'd train different exercises to the assessment, and thus avoid being good at the test exercises only, and rubbish on rock.
Week 34
M - Followed my own advice and did 3 rounds of:
20 leg raises + 2kg ankle weights
10 pike press-ups
20 I’s 4kg
10 Y’s 2kg (struggle to keep scapular depressed at end of ROM)
Then stretched.
T - Tried to do a FB session, but the warm-up was going so badly I sacked it off. Nasty tightness in my forearms just above wrists. Stretched.
W - Nowt.
T - Finally felt like I’d shrugged off all the lurgy. Kilnsey dash after work. TI#1 – draws in back-up project; re-worked bowling ball. TI#2 – smashy smashy – completed the link. The bowling ball was still awkward, but I made it work. I Ain't No Sponsored Jelly Bean (link-up) (8a+) Possibility of doing it from Tragedy for a more continuous link, as you could (articially?) eliminate the rest? TI#3 retroflash go at 50-for-5/The Ashes link. Got as far as 50-for-5 belay, but was pumped and heavily midge bitten. Called it a day early.
F - Fingerboard. Varied grips instead of an absolute max hang. Middle-2; BW+12.25kg, Back-2; BW+9kg, Front-2; BW+9kg, Sloper; BW+20.25kg, RH central slot; BW-6.75kg. Max number pull-ups; 22 (moderate on Steve Maisch scale). 3x20 press-ups with 5kg weight vest. Campus rung hanging rows – let’s call these the Mecca exercise…
Painful massage on traps, upper back and calves.
S - Nowt. House admin, wedding suit shopping & cinema. Dunkirk is quite an experience on the IMAX screen.
S - More house admin, 28km bike ride, then couple of hours bouldering at the Tor. Repeated all the moves on Ben's Roof Extension Start (f8A) – felt like An-cap the way I was restricted for rests!
p.s. I wrote some stuff about rehabilitating my finger injury that I picked up over the Easter weekend: https://allysmithblog.blogspot.co.uk/2017/08/finger-injury-some-thoughts-on...
> Ally Smith - I really the idea of his economics approach based on opportunity cost of training. I’m surprised there isn’t more functional strength stuff in there though- dynamics (vertical jump or clap kipping pull-ups etc), core (front lever) and stability (one legged squat, typewriters, or even handstand). The problem with it is, by his own standard of opportunity cost, omission of a vital strength component renders the whole thing fairly useless for planning training.
It's not perfect by any means, but as an assessment tool I think it has value - obviously you'd train different exercises to the assessment, and thus avoid being good at the test exercises only, and rubbish on rock.
Week 34
M - Followed my own advice and did 3 rounds of:
20 leg raises + 2kg ankle weights
10 pike press-ups
20 I’s 4kg
10 Y’s 2kg (struggle to keep scapular depressed at end of ROM)
Then stretched.
T - Tried to do a FB session, but the warm-up was going so badly I sacked it off. Nasty tightness in my forearms just above wrists. Stretched.
W - Nowt.
T - Finally felt like I’d shrugged off all the lurgy. Kilnsey dash after work. TI#1 – draws in back-up project; re-worked bowling ball. TI#2 – smashy smashy – completed the link. The bowling ball was still awkward, but I made it work. I Ain't No Sponsored Jelly Bean (link-up) (8a+) Possibility of doing it from Tragedy for a more continuous link, as you could (articially?) eliminate the rest? TI#3 retroflash go at 50-for-5/The Ashes link. Got as far as 50-for-5 belay, but was pumped and heavily midge bitten. Called it a day early.
F - Fingerboard. Varied grips instead of an absolute max hang. Middle-2; BW+12.25kg, Back-2; BW+9kg, Front-2; BW+9kg, Sloper; BW+20.25kg, RH central slot; BW-6.75kg. Max number pull-ups; 22 (moderate on Steve Maisch scale). 3x20 press-ups with 5kg weight vest. Campus rung hanging rows – let’s call these the Mecca exercise…
Painful massage on traps, upper back and calves.
S - Nowt. House admin, wedding suit shopping & cinema. Dunkirk is quite an experience on the IMAX screen.
S - More house admin, 28km bike ride, then couple of hours bouldering at the Tor. Repeated all the moves on Ben's Roof Extension Start (f8A) – felt like An-cap the way I was restricted for rests!
p.s. I wrote some stuff about rehabilitating my finger injury that I picked up over the Easter weekend: https://allysmithblog.blogspot.co.uk/2017/08/finger-injury-some-thoughts-on...
Post edited at 09:31
In reply to AJM:
Well, Monday looks likely to be less exciting than feared so I'll report now.
My week:
- Monday was a nightmare day with miniAJM. Hours of bouncing trying to settle him made my back sore. Did 5-2-5-2-5 which was good though compounded the tiredness. Felt wrecked by the end of the day. Bed by 915.
- Tues/Wed resting
- Thurs fly to Morzine. Lap round the lake in the afternoon
- Friday, wandering round town, walked up the hill to the lake, pinned down by thunderstorms
- Saturday, overeating, short steep slog up a hill with child, then swimming pool (lots of time with miniAJM in the 20cm pool!)
- Sunday, lap round the lake with child whilst mrsAJM did yoga, then after a coffee/crêpe a 7.5km walk, decent amount of uphill, good exercise. Then stand up paddle boarding mid afternoon which was fun.
- Monday, not sure yet. MiniAJM is full of snot so slept really badly as he couldn't feed properly as he couldn't breathe through his nose. Plan has been climbing but that seems unlikely now.
Back to Lyon tonight and then home tomorrow. Great fun although I underestimated the challenge of doing things as a group with 2 children on very different nap cycles (miniAJM needs more shorter naps but can take them in a sling/pram/etc, whereas my cousin's child needs one long one that basically has to be at home). Keen to return for climbing/walking/cycling and may have also signed up to come out skiing in the winter.
Not sure what I'll get up to this week but hopefully Pembroke this weekend. Very excited.
Maybe I'll also try a Lattice-style test on the foot on campus, see how the last few weeks have worked to extend the curve out a bit...
> Will report tomorrow - in Morzine at the minute back Tuesday morning so it makes sense to combine Monday in to make a long week...
Well, Monday looks likely to be less exciting than feared so I'll report now.
My week:
- Monday was a nightmare day with miniAJM. Hours of bouncing trying to settle him made my back sore. Did 5-2-5-2-5 which was good though compounded the tiredness. Felt wrecked by the end of the day. Bed by 915.
- Tues/Wed resting
- Thurs fly to Morzine. Lap round the lake in the afternoon
- Friday, wandering round town, walked up the hill to the lake, pinned down by thunderstorms
- Saturday, overeating, short steep slog up a hill with child, then swimming pool (lots of time with miniAJM in the 20cm pool!)
- Sunday, lap round the lake with child whilst mrsAJM did yoga, then after a coffee/crêpe a 7.5km walk, decent amount of uphill, good exercise. Then stand up paddle boarding mid afternoon which was fun.
- Monday, not sure yet. MiniAJM is full of snot so slept really badly as he couldn't feed properly as he couldn't breathe through his nose. Plan has been climbing but that seems unlikely now.
Back to Lyon tonight and then home tomorrow. Great fun although I underestimated the challenge of doing things as a group with 2 children on very different nap cycles (miniAJM needs more shorter naps but can take them in a sling/pram/etc, whereas my cousin's child needs one long one that basically has to be at home). Keen to return for climbing/walking/cycling and may have also signed up to come out skiing in the winter.
Not sure what I'll get up to this week but hopefully Pembroke this weekend. Very excited.
Maybe I'll also try a Lattice-style test on the foot on campus, see how the last few weeks have worked to extend the curve out a bit...
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. I think it is safe to say that AJM & I have very different preferences on what we like to climb on!
M - cycle commute. No yoga so TRX Is, Ys, Ts, weights, theraband. 30 press-ups.
T - cycle commute. Shoulder felt the worst it had for ages - I blame the press-ups! Lots of theraband stuff.
W - cycle commute. UCR 8 routes in pairs including OS of a tricky 7a. Tried the first crux of the 7b and am more sure than ever that I have to do it as a bounce. Finished with 4 routes back to back - 6c+/6c/6c/6b+
T - cycle commute. FB 5/10/5/3 on half crimp (x2), 4 finger drag (x3), 3 finger drag (x3). Got up to +14kg on the latter. Finished with min on/min off x10 with 7kg assist.
F - visiting parents so various bits of gardening etc for them.
S - FB repeaters on 35degree slopers. Can't remember the assist but down on previous time I did this session. Finished with min on/min off x10 on deep slots.
S - D1 and I did a recce for the Wye Valley challenge at Woodcroft Quarry. 7 routes from 4 to 6b, about 150m of climbing. Just finished as the rain started really coming down.
Thanks Guy. I think it is safe to say that AJM & I have very different preferences on what we like to climb on!
M - cycle commute. No yoga so TRX Is, Ys, Ts, weights, theraband. 30 press-ups.
T - cycle commute. Shoulder felt the worst it had for ages - I blame the press-ups! Lots of theraband stuff.
W - cycle commute. UCR 8 routes in pairs including OS of a tricky 7a. Tried the first crux of the 7b and am more sure than ever that I have to do it as a bounce. Finished with 4 routes back to back - 6c+/6c/6c/6b+
T - cycle commute. FB 5/10/5/3 on half crimp (x2), 4 finger drag (x3), 3 finger drag (x3). Got up to +14kg on the latter. Finished with min on/min off x10 with 7kg assist.
F - visiting parents so various bits of gardening etc for them.
S - FB repeaters on 35degree slopers. Can't remember the assist but down on previous time I did this session. Finished with min on/min off x10 on deep slots.
S - D1 and I did a recce for the Wye Valley challenge at Woodcroft Quarry. 7 routes from 4 to 6b, about 150m of climbing. Just finished as the rain started really coming down.
Post edited at 09:33
1
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy, Its been another low level week as I was off with the kids. Managed a run out with the wife and the kids on their bikes on Tuesday evening. Turned out to be more like interval training with the stops and starts, however we got 7.5 k in at a reasonable pace. Wednesday night was proper intervals with the wife's club, a pyramid session! Covered 4.4km with a high average over all so happy. Sunday was a run out on some new trails, ended up going through a very small field with a very big feckin bull in it and then through head high maize. Pace was understandably slow however on the plus side it did take me over 400 km run so far this year
> thesheep - Yeah I’m sure you’re lats are getting bigger from all the swimming but recruiting them for climbing isn’t going to come naturally
Cheers Guy, Its been another low level week as I was off with the kids. Managed a run out with the wife and the kids on their bikes on Tuesday evening. Turned out to be more like interval training with the stops and starts, however we got 7.5 k in at a reasonable pace. Wednesday night was proper intervals with the wife's club, a pyramid session! Covered 4.4km with a high average over all so happy. Sunday was a run out on some new trails, ended up going through a very small field with a very big feckin bull in it and then through head high maize. Pace was understandably slow however on the plus side it did take me over 400 km run so far this year
In reply to guy127917:
Feeling nervous! Not done one before, I've only ever run a half marathon on the road. The plan is to do a flat long run each week and build up the distance. Got slightly side tracked this week by The Pendle Three Peaks fall race, but hope to get back on track next week.
m - rest
t - 10k cycling, track session 3x400m warm up, 9 x 400 @ 4:15/km pace, 800m cool down
w - 10k cycling
t - 10.5k mixed terrain run
f - 10k cycling
s - Pendle Three Peaks fell race 15.5k, 936m of ascent
s - rest
The Pendle Three Peaks fell race was far tougher than I expected. I set off hoping for two hours which turned out to be wildly optimistic as it took me another thirty minutes to get to the finish!
> hokkyo - Ooh i see you have a marathon coming up. How are you feeling about that? Have you planned out any longer training runs?
Feeling nervous! Not done one before, I've only ever run a half marathon on the road. The plan is to do a flat long run each week and build up the distance. Got slightly side tracked this week by The Pendle Three Peaks fall race, but hope to get back on track next week.
m - rest
t - 10k cycling, track session 3x400m warm up, 9 x 400 @ 4:15/km pace, 800m cool down
w - 10k cycling
t - 10.5k mixed terrain run
f - 10k cycling
s - Pendle Three Peaks fell race 15.5k, 936m of ascent
s - rest
The Pendle Three Peaks fell race was far tougher than I expected. I set off hoping for two hours which turned out to be wildly optimistic as it took me another thirty minutes to get to the finish!
In reply to guy127917:
Ha! I think I was being sand bagged, 'foot in the porthole' my Aunt Fanny, I shall be having words with the Fox.
Work has been a proper ball ache this week.
M: Maybe yoga possibly not
T: Arghh, working until very late.
W: Was supposed to go to Kilnsey but I didn't arrange anyone to go with, had a long session at the Depot, normally there a re a couple of reds I can't do but this tie there seemed to be loads, only saving grace was that the ones on the comp wall seemed OK whereas usually I fail to do these.
T: Arghh, working until very late.
F: A short yoga session
S: Kilnsey, Bulge looked damp (it was) so got on Metal Guru, best effort was from first bolt to top but attempts to the first bolt eneded in failure (its very tricky to work, only had one proper go).
S: 90 mins at BUK (last ever session here, probably) followed by 30 mins yoga.
Injuries: Elbow and hip seem constant, horribly cut finger but joint no worse for going on Metal Guru, calf injury aggravated at the wall (heel hooking natch), arthritic toe.
Diet: Hmm
Inspiration: My wife is always nagging me to buy some more guide books to clutter up the house (preferably to places I'll never go) so I bought South Wales Sports climbs from BUK as they were selling it cheap.
STG: Not sure, have Wednesday booked off but haven't arranged a partner
MTG: Get something ticked before summer's out
LTG: L'Escalmadres and Mandragora in Dec
> Tyler - Well you got some pretty intense beta last week from several people- no excuses now!
Ha! I think I was being sand bagged, 'foot in the porthole' my Aunt Fanny, I shall be having words with the Fox.
Work has been a proper ball ache this week.
M: Maybe yoga possibly not
T: Arghh, working until very late.
W: Was supposed to go to Kilnsey but I didn't arrange anyone to go with, had a long session at the Depot, normally there a re a couple of reds I can't do but this tie there seemed to be loads, only saving grace was that the ones on the comp wall seemed OK whereas usually I fail to do these.
T: Arghh, working until very late.
F: A short yoga session
S: Kilnsey, Bulge looked damp (it was) so got on Metal Guru, best effort was from first bolt to top but attempts to the first bolt eneded in failure (its very tricky to work, only had one proper go).
S: 90 mins at BUK (last ever session here, probably) followed by 30 mins yoga.
Injuries: Elbow and hip seem constant, horribly cut finger but joint no worse for going on Metal Guru, calf injury aggravated at the wall (heel hooking natch), arthritic toe.
Diet: Hmm
Inspiration: My wife is always nagging me to buy some more guide books to clutter up the house (preferably to places I'll never go) so I bought South Wales Sports climbs from BUK as they were selling it cheap.
STG: Not sure, have Wednesday booked off but haven't arranged a partner
MTG: Get something ticked before summer's out
LTG: L'Escalmadres and Mandragora in Dec
1
In reply to Tyler:
Take a pad or two to Kilnsey to work they start of Metal Guru - much easier than swinging around on a rope on overhanging ground?
Take a pad or two to Kilnsey to work they start of Metal Guru - much easier than swinging around on a rope on overhanging ground?
In reply to guy127917:
What are people's thoughts on fingerboard protocols and frequency? I'm considering switching from the BM App's repeater protocol to a more strength-focussed max hang protocol. I've been making good progress with the repeaters but suspect this is largely down to "beginner's gains", having not trained finger strength before.
Will probably stick with the 'every 4 days' routine, but might stick an extra session in if I don't make it out climbing that week.
What are people's thoughts on fingerboard protocols and frequency? I'm considering switching from the BM App's repeater protocol to a more strength-focussed max hang protocol. I've been making good progress with the repeaters but suspect this is largely down to "beginner's gains", having not trained finger strength before.
Will probably stick with the 'every 4 days' routine, but might stick an extra session in if I don't make it out climbing that week.
In reply to planetmarshall:
I had great success earlier in the year for 12 consecutive weeks with simple max hangs. I treated it like weight lifting- for a set of holds you care about, complete a 10s hang with as much weight as possible, taking about 1 minute of rest between attempts. I did 2 arm hangs until weights got to about 50% BW then flipped to one arm assisted.
I would recommend picking about 4-5 holds per session, from 4 finger 22mm, 4 finger 15mm, open 3, back 3, front 2, middle 2, back 2, 25deg sloper, 35 deg sloper, 45 deg sloper etc.
I generally did twice a week, but if I couldnt replicate my previous max on the first set of lifts i deemed myself not sufficiently recovered and sacked off the session (generally always 4 finger 22mm)
I had great success earlier in the year for 12 consecutive weeks with simple max hangs. I treated it like weight lifting- for a set of holds you care about, complete a 10s hang with as much weight as possible, taking about 1 minute of rest between attempts. I did 2 arm hangs until weights got to about 50% BW then flipped to one arm assisted.
I would recommend picking about 4-5 holds per session, from 4 finger 22mm, 4 finger 15mm, open 3, back 3, front 2, middle 2, back 2, 25deg sloper, 35 deg sloper, 45 deg sloper etc.
I generally did twice a week, but if I couldnt replicate my previous max on the first set of lifts i deemed myself not sufficiently recovered and sacked off the session (generally always 4 finger 22mm)
Post edited at 15:54
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
Did that but the bit getting to and from the undercut needs to be done on the rope when you are as knackered as me! Only had one tired go at this so pretty sure it'll go when feeling better, not getting there this weekend though.....
Did that but the bit getting to and from the undercut needs to be done on the rope when you are as knackered as me! Only had one tired go at this so pretty sure it'll go when feeling better, not getting there this weekend though.....
In reply to Tyler:
Sorry, Pembroke I think. Going to try and remember what those wire things are for...
Sorry, Pembroke I think. Going to try and remember what those wire things are for...
In reply to AJM:
For protecting your second...
> Sorry, Pembroke I think. Going to try and remember what those wire things are for...
For protecting your second...
1
In reply to mrchewy:
Or for removing bits of loose rock so it's more solid for the next person.
> For protecting your second...
Or for removing bits of loose rock so it's more solid for the next person.
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy.
I nearly forgot again. Probably because it was a quiet week. One session at The Depot trying the pinks again. Teamed up with a wad who'd obviously show me all the beta. He later described it as an enjoyable on-sighting, volume, session. I described it as one of the hardest sessions I've had in ages. I've got a feeling a couple will go next time now (minimal points available now) but it was a great reminder in what trying hard really is and that I can't follow wad beta!
That was it. Summer holidays are nearly over. I don't go back to Uni until 25th Sept so i'm hoping for some good weather.
Cheers Guy.
I nearly forgot again. Probably because it was a quiet week. One session at The Depot trying the pinks again. Teamed up with a wad who'd obviously show me all the beta. He later described it as an enjoyable on-sighting, volume, session. I described it as one of the hardest sessions I've had in ages. I've got a feeling a couple will go next time now (minimal points available now) but it was a great reminder in what trying hard really is and that I can't follow wad beta!
That was it. Summer holidays are nearly over. I don't go back to Uni until 25th Sept so i'm hoping for some good weather.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Just a thought - we all got a good bit of psyche from Fit Club 500 goals this time last year, so perhaps a Fit Club 550 goal? Or an arbitrary 555 to give everyone time for a full training cycle if preferred?
Just a thought - we all got a good bit of psyche from Fit Club 500 goals this time last year, so perhaps a Fit Club 550 goal? Or an arbitrary 555 to give everyone time for a full training cycle if preferred?
In reply to guy127917:
Decent fitness week but clearly running myself too hard as the lurgy came on Saturday morning no trad
M: swim 1500m while Ben had a swimming lesson to improve his technique pre Buttermere 10k. He now does everything much better by just making tiny changes and will have a much better time.
T - T: conditioning, wall, fingerboard, yoga (order unknown)
F: Climbing Unit comp set - 200 points without working anything so pretty good as I'm normally around 165-185 onsight
S: lurgy descends. Boulder laps on old project traverse at Rheinstor for pocket mileage as practice for ToYP without needing brain or breathing
S: curbar just on the trackside boulder repeating up to strawberries and then rheinstor laps again after. Feeling rubbish but better for the fresh air and seeing some grit and heather.
Decent fitness week but clearly running myself too hard as the lurgy came on Saturday morning no trad
M: swim 1500m while Ben had a swimming lesson to improve his technique pre Buttermere 10k. He now does everything much better by just making tiny changes and will have a much better time.
T - T: conditioning, wall, fingerboard, yoga (order unknown)
F: Climbing Unit comp set - 200 points without working anything so pretty good as I'm normally around 165-185 onsight
S: lurgy descends. Boulder laps on old project traverse at Rheinstor for pocket mileage as practice for ToYP without needing brain or breathing
S: curbar just on the trackside boulder repeating up to strawberries and then rheinstor laps again after. Feeling rubbish but better for the fresh air and seeing some grit and heather.
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