In reply to guy127917:
> Dandan82: Nina Mala in one hang (x) Another 8a route (x) 3 x 7c/+ (x)
Cheers Guy, I think I should have some kind of cumulative challenge as well, like the 555 press ups or similar, any suggestions? 555 5 sec front levers seems more than a little ambitious...
> Dandan: I think that mental barrier in particular is very common, especially when going over one of the big grade boundaries. As you mentioned, climbing with people who are pushing it at least as hard or harder is likely to be a good way of tackling it. Maybe you should invite yourself along on another lattice trip
Another Lattice trip would be awesome but it didn't really work last time, Santa Linya cave broke my elbows and I ended up doing the two easiest routes in the whole cave! I've been chatting to Mac, our Margalef host, and he is back on form working 8c so hopefully he can push me up some silly stuff in October.
This week was much improved over last week, energy levels back to some semblance of normality.
M: Fingerboard; warm up and 10s weighted hangs on small outer BM2K edges, 5 sets at +20kg
Lower body stretching
T: Indoor Boulder; System board doubles. 6 sets with 4 min between sets. Tried to set problems without RH crimps, more work needed, it's a tough board!
W: Nothing
T: Indoor Boulder; 12 move problem, 4 reps 2.5 min rest, 3 sets 5 min rest.
Lower body stretching
F: Nothing. Supposed to be doing triples on the moon board but I was too busy pulling up the floor in the bouldershed to try and lay some more slabs underneath. Some furry critters had made a home under there and it was driving the dog mad so some remedial work was needed. That'll teach me to cut corners when I built the thing...
S: Finished work on the Bouldershed, absolutely knackering.
S: Fingerboard; warm up and 10s weighted hangs on small outer BM2K edges, 5 sets at +20kg
Indoor routes; Doubles on hard 7a+, 3 sets with 10 min rests.
Felt much more back to my old self this week, some good flashes on the new set during warm up on my boulder sessions.
Finger is still achey, neither improved or worsened really, I've accepted that it's probably going to still be present during Margalef but if I pick my battles it should be ok. It's a shame because I really wanted to get on
Via del Marc (8a+)(Marc) but it has a tiny RH crimp in the crux
Golfer's elbow on the left arm is being a bit of a pain (literally) but only after sessions and not during, so i'm going to continue to treat it mean and keep it keen, basically ignore it into submission.
Last week's STG:
* keep finger happy by being more selective with indoor holds and routes - Meh
* More neck stretches - Tick
new STG:
* keep finger happy by being more selective with indoor holds and routes
* More neck stretches
*Introduce more monos into problems
MTG: (next few months)
* Progress on Nina mala/flash over in Margalef
* Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger doing OK, golfers annoying.
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Illusions (7c) - TICK
* Megalomania (7c) - TICK
* Sirene (7c) - TICK
* Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c)
* Detonator (7c)
* Tennessee (7c)
* Prison Sex (7c+)
* Nightmare Scenario (7c)
* The Breathing Method (8a)
* Monoculture (7c+)
LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 2 done and 2 more booked!
* tick 3 x 8a - 2/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook) - 4/10
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year