/ UKC FitClub week 538

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Dandan82 - on 09 Jul 2017
FitClub Week 538

Good morning FitClub faithful, welcome to another week of praying at the altar of fitness, sacrificing your time and energy to the gods of finger strength and aerobic endurance, hoping your prayers for one more rep on the campus board will be answered.
Welcome also to those of you who have actual lives outside of training… ;)

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:

Last week’s thread can be found here:

Last Weeks Posters:

AJM - Apologies if this already covered but where are you going on holiday? Is it climbing or family based?
Tyler - Damn those families getting in the way! Hope the ankle, toe, hip and motivation are doing ok
AlanLittle - Looks like a very solid improvement on that lactate curve, nice that it’s the same shape only higher.
Hms - Wow that’s a lot of days of climbing! Glad to hear shoulders and elbows seem to be under control though.
Hokkyokusei - Not such a good week back but it often happens after a trip like that. Feeling better this week?
The sheep - Surgically removing bits of yourself is definitely cheating, otherwise i’d have ditched a leg long ago…
Biscuit - The summer league sounds fun, my local one is a single day flash style and i’m always busy, be nice to have some time to work the problems.
Ally Smith - You say you have your hanging position sorted now, is that to do with shoulder engagement?
Dandan82 - Sore loser (literally)
Alx - Sounds like very fast planche progress, if you get it i’ll be mighty jealous.
Just Tintin - My plan for the growing ticklist is to tick one and go from there, not much of a plan! What were you doing at Henley? Regatta related?
Planetmarshall - I like the idea of adding weight but dropping reps to build up the FB sessions
TheFasting on 09 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:
Totally forgot to post last week.

Last week's highlight:

Did the Alpine Combine from Training for the New Alpinism. Improved the box step vertical climb by 4 minutes since January. Strength metrics not as good as last time but it was expected. All this cardio is paying off!

This week:

M - 95 kg squats for 1 set of 10, then couldn't do the full set of 10 for the second set.

Moved on to bench press where I did my 8/6/3 progression with an AMRAP of 75 kg x 11. Then went home and did some diamond push-ups before bed, got 2 sets of 20 which was a PR. Closing in on one-arm push-ups now.

T - Indoor climbing for 2 hours. So so so close to flashing a 6a, did the whole thing except the starting hold in one go. That would have been a major milestone.

Then proceeded to fail on my roof project again (and again again again), and some other new problems, and tore 3 callouses. Ouch.

W - I think I did weighted pull-ups? Can't quite remember. I had one session around the middle of the week where I did 25 kg added for 4 sets of 2 reps, holding the last rep of each set for 5 seconds.

Also did a 1.5 hour stair climb, climbing 780 meters. Kind of meh. In between the stairs I did the box jump test in The Alpine Combine, got 45 jumps in 60 seconds.

T - Climbing at Hell. Third full session where I tried and failed on the third to last move on Ekstremsport (n5). I think I figured it out though, I have to drop knee, and then I've got it. Also, fear of falling and the usual deal, but I do fall practice regularly now so there's some development. Going forward I'll warm up by trying this route and spend my time working on other things to not just bang my head against the wall.

F - 100 kg squats x 4, then it got so slow I bailed on squats. Time to not add weight each session and begin the proper program that I've been following for bench for some time. Also did 100 kg deadlift x 10, but felt slow so only did one set. Going to do the program for all 3 lifts starting next week.

Sa - Long cardio day. Did laps on Trondheim's steepest trail (average incline 30% or so). Climbed 1670m in 5 hours. Did it all fasted. By the end it was a total zombie death march with wobbly knees, so exhausted and hungry I felt drunk etc. When that happens I picture myself on the summit ridge of some 8000er and keep going, great to practice suffering.

Su - Rest.
Post edited at 20:11
hms - on 09 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

Thanks Dan. Another busy week with the elbow just about coping. Have been doing a lot of p/rehab for elbow/shoulder as well (much more than mentioned below) to hopefully keep everything under control.

M - cycle commute. yoga.
T - cycle commute. UCR in evening. onsight of a new 6c+ which I reckon probably deserves 7a. Couple more goes at the 7b+ which has been down-graded to 7b. There is one move in particular where one has to twist up with weight out to one side and awkward feet where the grade is distinctly height dependant I think. Not possible to just pop for it. Dozen routes in pairs.
W - cycle commute. Cycle home via UCR. Boulder warmup then ancap on campus board. I am very bad at campusing! Finished with 1 min on/90 sec off FoC x10 trying to keep flat on and frog rather than twist. Very hard work.
T - cycle commute. TRX flys, theraband and other p/rehab
F - Armistice on shunt. Slowly chipping away at War on Words but significant chunks still a mystery.
S - 4 miles urban walking. FB warmup then strength - 6/1/10/3 1 hand with stool hangs x 5. rest then aerocap 7/3/6/1 x 10 with -7.5 assist.
S - Armistice with D2. Somewhat time bound and she was working a route and got to the point of wanting to lead so my goes got squished down to very little. Managed to TR up to clip3 clean, and also clip4 to the top. Getting properly up level with C3 and then progressing to C4 are still not getting any clearer. FB in evening to make up for low volume - 5/10/5/3 on various grip types - crimp with -5 assist, drag with +10. Rest then same aerocap as Sat but had to up it to -10 assist for the last few iterations.

Bottom line is that I don't know what grade War on Words is now, but it certainly isn't 7c any more. Need a second opinion!
AJM - on 09 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

> AJM - Apologies if this already covered but where are you going on holiday? Is it climbing or family based?

Well, we have a wedding on Saturday coming in Cheshire/wales, so "up north" somewhere depending on the weather. Climbing en famille, potentially with walking and biking thrown in.

The early part of the week I didn't really do anything bar packing and stuff. Things improved from Friday lunchtime, but I might as well report it all in one go when I get back really.
Tyler - on 09 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:
> Tyler - Damn those families getting in the way! Hope the ankle, toe, hip and motivation are doing ok
Cheers Dan, still got two more interrupted weekends for family stuff to go but the DIY marathon is coming to an end. Injuries no better but motivation has improved due to arranging a Siurana trip with strong Ru in December.

That said, this week has been a bit of a write-off. Went to Kilnsey on Sunday and I wasn't as awful as I thought I would be. Maybe stick some goals up next week and see if I can do a bit better this week. On that front just got a text from the Peugeot who's on the comeback trail so will hopefully get to Kilnsey with him one day after work (midges permitting).
Post edited at 22:23
hms - on 10 Jul 2017
In reply to hms:

D1 has complained vociferously that it was her not D2 getting her route ticked at Armistice!
planetmarshall on 10 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:
> Planetmarshall - I like the idea of adding weight but dropping reps to build up the FB sessions

Yes, from the point of view of specificity it makes sense to me that it's better to sacrifice reps in favour of getting as close to bodyweight as possible. Can always increase the reps as I (hopefully) get stronger.

A couple of days of illness this week so not much done between that and rest/recovery. However, at least managed a couple of routes out at Stanage, and continued daily shoulder rehab. Feeling more positive about my shoulder injury as I have for ages, and put up a few more goals.

Mon - Hathersage Gala fell race. Way down on my time from 2015 again, but was starting to feel ill so that could be at least partially to blame. Fingerboard (BM 5a, -26kg/6reps)
Tue - Ill.
Wed - Ill.
Thu - Recovery
Fri - Recovery
Sat - Climbing at Stanage. Busy so went to the not often visited Titanic Buttress. Climbed Titanic (VS 4b) - tremendous route, surely one of the best VSs on the edge, and seems to see comparatively little traffic. Fingerboard (BM 5a, -26kg/6 reps)
Sun - Rest.


Next week's goals -

* Mid week and weekend trail run (1 long)
* Midweek bouldering (preferably outdoors)
* 2 max strength sessions
* Increase Fingerboard weight to -22kg/5 reps
* Weekend trad
* Continue daily shoulder rehab.


Left shoulder rehab.
Kalymnos in September
Magma (6b+)
Something in the Grande Grotta Area,
Elefantenhimmel (7a) maybe.

British Trad Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud
The Unconquerables
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
The Embankment routes at Millstone


Banana Finger (f6A)
Technical Master (f6B)


Regent Street (E2 5c)
Left Wall (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Vector (E2 5c)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (VD) Solo (Spring 2018)

Scottish Winter 2017/18

Kami-kaze (VI 7)
Central Buttress (VI 7)
Shang-High (VII 7)
Central Grooves (VII 7)
Sundance (VIII 8)


The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
The American Direct (ED1)
Dalriada (E7 6b)

Something on El Capitan.
Post edited at 08:18
Ally Smith on 10 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:
Yep - shoulder engagement - for some reason the L-raises/hangs feel so much easier without bending elbows

Right now i'm sat in a Stuttgart hotel with terrible internet connection, musing over how 3 days of travel/beer
& sausage gluttony/zero training will effect my performance on the Kilnsey project...

Week 28
M - Cycle commute; 18.0/18.9km in/out. Stretching in front of the TV.
T - Rehab deadhangs – progressive set, then straight into the 1-arm hangs;
RH only centre slot @BW-6.75kg; 10,8,10,10
3x10s @BW+43.5kg on BM2K-AA slot.
3x10s @BW+16kg on 35degree slopers.
3x10s middle-2 @BW
3x10s back-2 @BW
i.e. increased weight on every 2-handed grip
3 sets I’s, reverse T’s and narrow/wide pull-ups; shoulders felt pretty blasted.
Tea & doughnut break, then 10x 1on/1off FoC aero-cap. 8x press-ups in the off minute (weak on the diamond variant) & 250 core movements whilst watching a spectacular pile up in the TdF sprint finale.
W - Evening ride; 20km flat.
T - Mingingly hot & sweaty. BW continuous an-cap hangs; 4-finger drag down a bit (68s, 84%); crimp up a little (43s; 88%); back-3 also up (28s; 89%). Put pizza in oven and did 10x 1on/1off aero-cap session (7/3/6/1@BW on the BM2K 40mm slots) whilst it was cooking. Mixed in L-raises & pull-ups as part of the session.
F - Nowt. Finally got around to writing some blog
S - Kilnsey. 6c+ warm-up. First 10 clips of project (7b/+) as 2nd warm-up, and dogged next 5 bolts to brush/dry/chalk holds. RP#1 new high-point, 1.5 moves from the jug on Freakshow - effectively 4 clips further than last go, but I’m only clipping 1 of them…
…makes for an exciting fall.
2nd go wasn’t as sprightly. 3rd go was a equally poor, but I did a massive link from where I fell off on the first go through to the middle of the RP crux, where I pinged off with a damp foot hold. Bumped into Gresham – he says I’ll be done in a month…
S - Rest – suit shopping and pub dinner with AJM + mini-me.
Post edited at 15:33
hokkyokusei - on 10 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

> Hokkyokusei - Not such a good week back but it often happens after a trip like that. Feeling better this week?

Yeah. much better thanks.

m - 5km run to work
t - Danefield Relay ~5km 26:08 offroad and very hilly, so pleased with the time.
w - rest
t - off road club run from Ilkley to Baildon, ~13km
f - rest
s - Horton Park parkrun 5km 23:00 - just ten seconds away from a PB, maybe next week.
s - rest

STG keep the weight off and think of some longer term goals.

AlanLittle - on 10 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

Thanks Dan. A better lactate curve turns out not to be the path to immediate glory off the campus board. Yet.

STG: Base phase training for Kaly: complete a dozen aerobic capacity mileage sessions. 12/12
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Bike one hour.
T: Bike one hour.
Mutual decision with my son to let heat-induced fatigue get the better of us & skip our usual Tuesday night Boulderwelt session. I did some max hangs for strength maintenance and some shoulder work at home instead.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. 14 routes 5b to 6b. Kaly aerocap session #12
T: Rest
F: Bike one hour.

S: Frankenjura, Herzwand. Got a kicking on Löwenherz, a top 6c+ classic that I've wanted to do for a while but it's rarely dry. Fell at the third bolt on what I had tried to convince myself was a serious flash attempt, bolt to bolted it on another go, was intimidated, gave up. The route is overhanging jug pulling on big pockets, and on steep stuff I have big problems with my footwork, my head, and indecisiveness generally. No amount of getting fitter is going to help with that; I need to build confidence.
S: Frankenjura, Elfenwelt. ... so I got on two overhanging, juggy 6b's and flashed them easily (plus half a dozen other routes) Confidence Building on steep ground phase 1.
Si dH - on 10 Jul 2017
In reply to Ally Smith:

Nice video Ally. I noticed on fb you mentioned you used different software - was it any good?
Ally Smith on 10 Jul 2017
In reply to Si dH:

Yeah - Lightworks took a little bit of getting used to, but there's so much more functionality. I think I've barely scratched the surface to be honest and will continue to learn as I make some more little films. P.s. it's freeware
the sheep - on 11 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

> The sheep - Surgically removing bits of yourself is definitely cheating, otherwise i’d have ditched a leg long ago…

Its wasn't planned that's for sure, was supposed to have my appendix out via keyhole surgery but when i woke up things had got a whole lot more major!

Anyway last week was another good one although I did over push myself on Friday and am still feeling it a bit in my hip. Week went as follows;

Monday, 1km lunchtime swim

Tuesday, 1km lunchtime swim

Wednesday, 1km lunchtime swim and 44km ride home

Thurdsady, 1km lunchtime swim

Friday, 1km lunchtime swim and then a 26km ride home followed by an 11km run, ouch

Saturday, 40 minutes crossfit, arms and upper body

Sunday, nice gentle family cycle ride

AlanLittle - on 11 Jul 2017
In reply to the sheep:

> Its wasn't planned that's for sure, was supposed to have my appendix out via keyhole surgery but when i woke up things had got a whole lot more major!

That happened to me too with my knee. Woke up and on one side was a neat keyhole, on the other side a trench. "Oh yes, there was more to clear out than we expected"
Dandan82 - on 11 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

Thanks me,
The week started off a little low with the iffy finger but it improved greatly toward the weekend and is now back to being as good as it's been in a while which is a pleasant outcome.

M: Indoor boulder, The Project; 4 reps of 10 move route with 20's rest between. 4 sets. Did this on the woody and I failed, a LOT! Kept off RH crimps for finger but it was a little achey.
2 on 1 off on the circuit wall, sweaty mess. Loving these double/triple sessions at the moment, it gives more proper rest periods between sessions and it means I feel like i'm really trying hard in the sessions too.

T: Antagonist Theraband; new set of shoulder antag exercises, something I should have been doing all along really so happy to have them back in the mix

W: Indoor Boulder, The Project; Protracted warm up trying some of the harder problems around, then 2 on 1 off again, same route, felt almost as hard as Monday!

T: Rest

F: Nothing; was supposed to do doubles of 7a+-ish but I skipped it for the sake of the finger. Seemed to be a good call as it felt great the next day.

S: Outdoor, Portland; Got the tick of Illusions (7c) at Cheyne, it felt nails on the bolt-to-bolt, but then I did the reachy crux move from the floor next go but messed up the sequence coming out of it.
I felt that if the conditions remained ok (it gets notoriously greasy in the shade) then it would be in the bag next go. Miraculously, the sun went around but the grease never materialised so it went smoothly on the next go as predicted.
It was good to feel confident in my ability and aware of my limits so that I could predict the next go quite accurately, there weren't really any nerves, I just did what I needed to do, followed the sequence, job done. Definitely hard 7c. Detonator (7c) right next it is next on the list.

S: Indoor Boulder, BoulderShed; repeat hard problem 7 times with 2.5 min rests. 3 sets. I only did 2 sets as on the second I managed to jam a splinter right up under my fingernail, agonising! My finger tip is still tender now.

This coming week is a full-on rest week which I never deal well with, I'll do my best to stay away from climbing walls, but I might do some antagonist weights or something... plus lots of stretching, I must get back into that.

Last weeks STG:
* Stretch hamstrings and/or hips every session - FAIL
* All 6 sessions on plan (+ potential outdoor at weekend) - 5/6 plus outdoor
* Investigate top secret lattice board at The Project and see if I can get access for self assessing - TICK

new STG:
* Stretch hamstrings and/or hips every DAY -
* Have some actual rest -

MTG: (next few months)
* Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger back on track
* Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c)
* Illusions (7c) - TICK
* Detonator (7c)
* Prison Sex (7c+)
* Nightmare Scenario (7c)
* The Breathing Method (8a)
* Monoculture (7c+)

LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 2 done and 2 more booked!
* Niña Mala (8b) in October
* tick 3 x 8a - 2/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook) - 2/10
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last

* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year
biscuit - on 11 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

Cheers Dan.

Had a good start to the week but then weather and parenting got in the way.

Mon - good hard boulder sesh at AWCC. Got roped in to trying the comp problems and had a go at the final ones. Proper max level session.
Tue - outdoor day turned to indoor day due to rain. Routes. Hilarious performance. On-sighted up to 6c had a go at a 7a that was 'soft and should be an ego boost'. It wasn't an ego boost as I failed on it. Twice. I then failed on a 6c on The Mammut wall. Lost my steep fitness. No surprise there really. Had a fun time though. It was nice to get back on a rope and falling felt OK.
Wed - shoulder felt a bit unstable somehow so rested
Thurs - Wed - kids, work and selling my old van and buying a new one. Quite excited!

Usual feast and famine pattern. Should get a couple of indoor sessions this week then off to Lakes for a couple of days bouldering and whatever else I can fit in.

Been doing shoulder exercises every day and shoulder feels OK now.

Got out on my bike for a couple of short, hilly, rides and been calorie counting and i'm now 3lbs lighter than two weeks ago with slightly less body fat as a %. So that's all good. I have fallen off the waggon a couple of times but i'm not stressing about it as it's gradually going in the right direction and that's what i'm after.

This weeks goals:

Swim in a lake
Finish off this round of summer league
Boulder at St Bees - not been for about 4 years. Repeat a V6 would be nice
Possibly another boulder (Bowderstone???)
Another indoor session
Just Tintin - on 12 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

Thanks Dan, sounds like it is working. What did you tick this week? Henley was indeed Regatta running hospitality for a couple of days. Ugh. Started back on the limestone properly this week - it always takes a while after grit and granite to get back judgment of what is safe and not to stand on!

M - Gym cardio/weights
T - core
W - rest
T - body balance/bar and rings
F - Forced boulder mileage at Climbing Unit
S - finally went over the road to High Tor. It's a bit loose in places but fabulous, and I can almost see my house from there. Belay ledge on Original Route (HVS 5a) is awesome and a great accessible route.
S - Routes on High Tor but got quite hot and muggy. Recced both ends of the big wall and have now worked out where the traverses go from both ends, so they're now top of the ticklist! On way back worked boulder sets at Climbing Unit
the sheep - on 12 Jul 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:

Yup, not much fun to wake up and find big bits of you missing!
mattrm - on 16 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)

Weight - 13st 8lbs

M - T - Rest
W - Indoor routes at the Rec
T - Rest
F - Trad at Ogmore
S - S - Rest

Not a bad week I guess. Got down the wall and as a last gasp before the baby took a day off work and went tradding at Ogmore. Obviously I got a bit trashed there, as it's all steep and hard. Still great climbing and it's lovely and quiet at the bottom of the cliffs. I'm also lacking in any kind of stamina. Don't know if I'll keep it up much, but it was nice.

alx on 16 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

Hi Dandan,

Monday - Thursday: gymnastics training, I now cycle through planche, front lever, flag and dragon flag.
Decided to go back to basics on the planche and flag to work on getting the base strength addressed, working on planche leans for 30 second holds with strict core, shoulder and elbow form, for the flag I have taken it back to doing tuck flag holds for as long as possible with good form.

Slight success, this week I managed to hold the front lever strict (no hollow body) for 10 seconds which felt like a lifetime and hold tucked planche on the rings.

Finger is feeling loads better and I find myself wanting to get the planche quickly before my finger heals enough to go back to climbing.

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.