In reply to Dandan:
Thanks me,
The week started off a little low with the iffy finger but it improved greatly toward the weekend and is now back to being as good as it's been in a while which is a pleasant outcome.
M: Indoor boulder, The Project; 4 reps of 10 move route with 20's rest between. 4 sets. Did this on the woody and I failed, a LOT! Kept off RH crimps for finger but it was a little achey.
2 on 1 off on the circuit wall, sweaty mess. Loving these double/triple sessions at the moment, it gives more proper rest periods between sessions and it means I feel like i'm really trying hard in the sessions too.
T: Antagonist Theraband; new set of shoulder antag exercises, something I should have been doing all along really so happy to have them back in the mix
W: Indoor Boulder, The Project; Protracted warm up trying some of the harder problems around, then 2 on 1 off again, same route, felt almost as hard as Monday!
T: Rest
F: Nothing; was supposed to do doubles of 7a+-ish but I skipped it for the sake of the finger. Seemed to be a good call as it felt great the next day.
S: Outdoor, Portland; Got the tick of Illusions (7c) at Cheyne, it felt nails on the bolt-to-bolt, but then I did the reachy crux move from the floor next go but messed up the sequence coming out of it.
I felt that if the conditions remained ok (it gets notoriously greasy in the shade) then it would be in the bag next go. Miraculously, the sun went around but the grease never materialised so it went smoothly on the next go as predicted.
It was good to feel confident in my ability and aware of my limits so that I could predict the next go quite accurately, there weren't really any nerves, I just did what I needed to do, followed the sequence, job done. Definitely hard 7c. Detonator (7c) right next it is next on the list.
S: Indoor Boulder, BoulderShed; repeat hard problem 7 times with 2.5 min rests. 3 sets. I only did 2 sets as on the second I managed to jam a splinter right up under my fingernail, agonising! My finger tip is still tender now.
This coming week is a full-on rest week which I never deal well with, I'll do my best to stay away from climbing walls, but I might do some antagonist weights or something... plus lots of stretching, I must get back into that.
Last weeks STG:
* Stretch hamstrings and/or hips every session - FAIL
* All 6 sessions on plan (+ potential outdoor at weekend) - 5/6 plus outdoor
* Investigate top secret lattice board at The Project and see if I can get access for self assessing - TICK
new STG:
* Stretch hamstrings and/or hips every DAY -
* Have some actual rest -
MTG: (next few months)
* Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger back on track
* Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c)
* Illusions (7c) - TICK
* Detonator (7c)
* Prison Sex (7c+)
* Nightmare Scenario (7c)
* The Breathing Method (8a)
* Monoculture (7c+)
LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 2 done and 2 more booked!
* Niña Mala (8b) in October
* tick 3 x 8a - 2/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook) - 2/10
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year