Borrowdale is the perfect place to develop your trad climbing skills. It's a valley with a long and storied climbing history where many have honed their practice over the years.
© Mark Glaister
The volcanic rhyolite here is one of my favourite rock types to climb on. It is full of features and friction (apart from the odd spot where it has worn through with the passage of hundreds of climbers).
The climbs in this idyllic valley offer ample year-round climbing. Parking can be tricky, but for extra eco-points you can also access these crags by bike, hitch-hike or public transport: bus 77 and 78 travel along Borrowdale from Keswick.
Join the ranks and get some all-important practice in with this list of 10 routes at VS and under to develop your love of trad climbing.
Shepherd's Crag
Little Chamonix (VD) - 4 pitches
This is THE classic of the valley. Gain yourself a Classic Rock tick by completing this memorable journey up Shepherd's Crag. Enjoy the bum slide across the slippery corner and take a banjo to pose on the top pitch in tribute to the iconic 1960s photo advertising the local Lamplighter Folk Group. Alternatively, do it in boxing gloves and roller skates like Ray McHaffie.
© USBRIT
Ardus (VS 4b) - 2 pitches
A mild VS taking in the dominating corner. Practice those bridging skills then try some face-climbing, moving out leftwards following a crack-line into brilliant exposure. Ardus, like every other climb at Shepherd's, has a great top-out position, with solid oak tree belays and glorious views over Derwent Water to Cat Bells and Skiddaw.
© Mark Glaister
Eve (VS 4c) - 3 pitches
There are so many great routes at Shepherd's and Eve is another gem. Over three pitches, weave your way up the buttress, taking in a number of wonderful features. Feel the history as you climb: Eve was first climbed by Bill Peascod, a local working class hero. This Cumbrian coal miner laboured in Workington and escaped from the mines on his days off to take to the eastern fells where he put up a number of outstanding routes. Bill later moved to Australia and became an artist. The man had an eye for a line: you can see his talent in the routes he established across the north eastern fells. Watch Bill Peascod and Chris Bonnington in action in this fabulous film, capturing the traditional spirit of Lakes mountain cragging. Socks on!
(If you're climbing well, then don't miss Adam, Eve's harder companion, at VS 5a.)
© Mark Glaister
Black Crag
Troutdale Pinnacle (S) - 6 pitches
A little further up Borrowdale, Black Crag has a lovely approach through the oakwoods. Troutdale Pinnacle offers 100 metres of quality climbing, taking in sensational positions up the airy crag. Fight the polish, find the holds and climb to the top of that pinnacle for an exposed and memorable belay. With good reason, this is held to be one of the best Severes in the UK and another Classic Rock tick!
(If the bottom of the route is busy and you're feeling competent, take on Troutdale Pinnacle Direct (VS 4c) at VS 4a or Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect (HVS 5a) at HVS 5a)
Gillercombe
Gillercombe Buttress (S 4a) – 7 pitches
A third Classic Rock route in the valley gives an indication of the quality of climbing to be found in Borrowdale. Over 200 metres of rock at a higher elevation, Gillercombe Buttress offers a taste of the airy pleasures of mountain cragging. Think vast views, lots of pitches and topping out to a stunning Lakeland panorama. Aspiring alpinists can then hike up to Great Gable and climb Engineer's Slabs (VS 4c) on the enigmatic North Face. However you do it, pick a sunny day and you're guaranteed a great climb and a fine introduction to mountain cragging.
© Mark Glaister
Raven Crag
Raven Crag Buttress (VD) – 4 pitches
At the head of Combe Ghyll, a valley that nestles into Glaramara, you can take a longer walk-in for another taste of mountaineering. The crag is 'atmospheric', which is guidebook-speak for remote and shady. It faces north-east and so is the perfect place for climbing in a heatwave – or the rain! Raven Crag Buttress takes on the eponymous buttress with rising views down to Derwent Water.
Corvus, The Direct Start (S 4a) - 5 pitches
Corvus is the more popular route at Raven Crag. Described as a route for all seasons, check out the UKC gallery for proof! If you want the extra traditional tick on this mountain route, climb Corvus in big boots in the rain. If you are less of a pluviophile, then wait it out in Keswick Pencil Museum and return in the dry.
Bowderstone Crags
Bowderstone Pinnacle (S 4a) - 2 pitches
You will find Bowderstone Crag a short walk above the magnificent Bowderstone boulder. Stop here to get those fingers warmed up for the main event! If you have not had enough of rhyolite pinnacles yet, there is Bowderstone Pinnacle, the classic of the crag. Enjoy the positions and scenery, while holding your nerve for this adventurous romp.
When you have finished, take a wander over to Hell's Wall for further inspiration for your next big project!
Woden's Face (VS 4b) and Woden's Face Direct (VS 4c) - both 1 pitch
A five-minute walk-in with a low-lying west-facing aspect makes this a great spot for a short day or sunny afternoon. The climbs are single-pitch and technical, helping you to practise some different skills. The routes are all graded between Severe and VS. Wimpey Way (S 4a), Woden's Face, Woden's Face Direct and Woden's Cheek (VS 4c) are all worth climbing.
Buckstone How
Sinister Grooves (VS 4c) - 3 pitches
In the stunning Honister Pass, Sinister Grooves is technically just outside of Borrowdale – but well worth a visit. Climbing on Buckstone How takes you into a different aspect of Lakeland history. Swap the oakwoods and rhyolite for Cumbrian slate served up with a good dose of mining detritus, from inclines to waste scree-slopes, rusting machinery and tunnels leading into dark mines within the mountains.
This south-west facing crag is blessed with plenty of sunshine (don't forget the sun lotion!) and offers great views over the cars, buses and cyclists struggling over the pass. Sinister Grooves is steep and technical; the perfect finale to test all the skills you've learned across these top 10 Borrowdale routes. If you're going well, make sure to also climb Cleopatra (HVS 5a) at HVS 5a. Both Cleopatra and Sinister Grooves are Bill Peascod lines and offer 80 metres of inspired climbing.
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Guidebook
Lake District Climbs
Lake District Climbs provides comprehensive coverage of the very best traditional climbing in the mountains and valleys of English Lake District. The range and variety of climbing available is outstanding, from low-level single-pitch outcrop cragging to long multi-pitch mountain routes. There is something here for climbers of all abilities from experts to those just starting out. More info
Comments
Great selection of routes!
(Though IMHO think Eve is a bit of a sandbag for a budding VS climber - it was no walk in the park when I did it in November with a couple grades in hand - tho I'll admit the time of year most likely didn't help! I think there's been several serious accidents on it too, just as a little safety thought.)
I followed my ascent of Eve by doing Adam and North Buttress so it felt quite easy by contrast. Among my first ever Borrowdale climbs, done circa 1972.
I agree that Pinndale Trouticle is one of the best in the UK at the grade. The pitch under the overhang and then up the wall is a belter.
Gillercombe Buttress never had that classic appeal for me, though that could be because I did it in rain turning to snow on a miserable November day.
T.
Repeated Gillercombe Buttress last May Tony, on a beautiful day with not another person in sight. Totally wonderful experience. It is the feeling of being on a remote crag and with enough interest in the climbing to make it really memorable, as was the walk afterwards up to Great Gable and good company to boot.
I agree about Gillercombe Buttress. I first did it in the early 1980's because it was in "Classic Rock" I thought it was a pretty poor route with the odd good pitch. I decided to repeat it last year - I was still not impressed!