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Hi
I'm looking for recommendations for friction smearing routes/ boulder problems in the UK. Not corners with big jugs/ crimps but this sort of thing. https://www.mountainproject.com/route/109561280/the-shadow
Only thing I can think of is Green Death Superdirect (f7B) .
Any other suggestions?
Thanks
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In reply to James Oswald:
Do goliath's groove without laybacking or jamming - superb.
12
In reply to James Oswald:
Kilt rock has some
In reply to James Oswald:
Can't immediately think of any perfect granite corners in Scotland or Cornwall, but there must be some.
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5
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In reply to James Oswald:
Maybe The Torridonian (E3 6a)
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5
In reply to James Oswald:
Memory may be hazy but First Slip (E1 5c)?
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In reply to James Oswald:
Damn - I literally had five routes to suggest and they’re the last five suggested!
Profit of Doom tbh is easier by other means, but if you eschew those then it fits.
jcm
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In reply to James Oswald:
Not done it but hasn't Ten Degrees North (E2 5c) got a groove that requires friction bridging that loads of people rave about.
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In reply to Robert Durran:
> Maybe The Torridonian (E3 6a)
Unfortunately not - it's definitely reliant on holds. A couple that spring to mind are Excellence By Design (E2 5c) and Louie Groove (E1 5b)
In reply to James Oswald:
How about Orifice Fish (E4 5c), put up by Kev Stephens.
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In reply to Darron:
Yes, I think First Slip is a contender.
In reply to James Oswald:
Cocytus Cocytus (6c) has superb friction bridging at the start.
In reply to James Oswald:
+1 for Orifice Fish (E4 5c) and it's on slate so a proper one in faith in friction.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=283413
Would the Quarryman come under your criteria?
Post edited at 16:36
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In reply to James Oswald:
The first section of the final pitch on Direct Route (VS 5b) would fit. Fine climb.
T.
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In reply to James Oswald:
what you training for? The Shadow or the Teflon?
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In reply to James Oswald:
Vulcan (E4 6a) - it's been a long time since I climbed it, but if I remember it may well fit the bill.
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In reply to James Oswald:
Not done it, but it's a corner, and lots of photos show some bridging...
Post edited at 14:47
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In reply to Mark Kemball:
ICompared with venom ,vulcan should not be on the list!
In reply to Darron:
> First Slip. Loved that route. Mainly did it on rib but once tried to go up the groove on a wet day. Friction bridging indeed. Slid off and ended up eyeballing a surprised Paul Bolger who was belaying.
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In reply to James Oswald:
10 degrees north on the mot and last slip at Avon are a bit that way as far as I can remember
In reply to James Oswald:
Zukator (E4 6b) or one of those routes has the climbing up the inside of an egg shell pitch.
Ten Degrees North (E2 5c) has a short lived bridging section.
The Quarryman (E8 7a) groove pitch, you can ab in and top rope it. Although more frictionless friction climbing.
3
In reply to James Oswald:
My plantar fasciitis is acting up just from reading this thread.
4
In reply to James Oswald:
Not sure Louie Groove of leg slip will help you for the Teflon or the shadow, James
Great list to start!
In reply to Mark Reeves:
My memory of Zukator is that the crux involved more than just friction bridging. I followed John Syrett up that, but he swum up the crux so quickly and easily that I didn't really get any clues from him how to do it. The way I struggled up it could be described as semi-desperate contortionism!
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In reply to James Oswald:
Those types of routes are my absolute worst nightmare! Looking up and having absolutely nothing to aim for...
Very short, but Micro Corner (f7A) gives a couple of contorted moves.
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In reply to all:
Thanks for your responses.
It seems to me that many of the suggestions are technical bridging routes rather(German schoolgirl) than friction bridging routes (the shadow in Squamish, book of hate in Yosemite). I will look into the other suggestions though.
https://gripped.com/news/adam-ondra-sends-book-hate-5-13d-trad-yosemite/
This makes me think that there aren't many pure friction bridging routes in the UK - I guess it's because we don't have much granite?
Thanks all, any other suggestions would be much appreciated!
Post edited at 12:32
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In reply to James Oswald:
I feel like there must be some on Arran, or in the Cairngorms, or the Etive Slabs, or the Mournes...but I can't think what they are, so maybe there aren't.
In reply to Andy Moles:
I was thinking the same thing and the one one that sprung to mind was P1+2 of The Pinch Direct (E3 5c) on the Etive Slabs, but I'm not sure if it strictly fit within the criteria - just depends on what your view of 'bridging' is (i.e. does it have to be with feet either side of a corner, or could it be using your body + arms as well?).
Pinch Direct fits the latter, with your arms spanning and your body tight up against the corner, with your feet walking progressively up a slender gangway - no footholds whatsoever - completely harrowing. Certainly haven't done anything anyway near this pure in the UK, but suspect there's pitches abound like this all around Squamish and it'd certainly be great training.
When it comes to the Cairngorms my initial thought was Thor (E5 6b), but whilst it does go up a corner I'm not sure whether you actually bridge it. My final thought was from the other end of the country with The West Face (E5 6b) in Bosigran's Great Zawn. I did it last year and that's got some pretty conceptual frictioneering throughout its second (crux) pitch.
Much like you though I keep thinking there's loads of things I've missed, but maybe not?!
Either way, great thread Wald!
p.s. I don't suppose you've done Agony (E2 5c) have you Andy? Always presumed this climbed more like slab, but I might be wrong - it does go up a corner after all...
In reply to James Oswald:
The groove pitch on...The Rock Bottom Line (7b+)
youtube.com/watch?v=pool3YXNLEQ&
A bit of a beginners The Quarryman (E8 7a)
Post edited at 12:42
In reply to Andy Moles:
> I feel like there must be some on Arran, or in the Cairngorms, or the Etive Slabs, or the Mournes...
Eye of the Tiger, on Wee Binnian. Blankish corner - in the Nectar mould.
Mick
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In reply to James Oswald:
Not in the UK, but check out this photo of an astonishing holdless groove on Simon Nadin's instagram
https://www.instagram.com/p/BzAgpbCjP8X/?igshid=98gjrt0ogbdc
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In reply to James Oswald:
I've just remembered this:
I seem to remember it being fairly precarious. However, it was a while ago and maybe someone who's done it more recently can confirm whether it's contaminated by microcrimps.
In reply to James Oswald:
Not really on topic, but Red Rocks and nearby Paradise Forks both have a fantastic collections of pure stemming routes (especially in the E4/5/6 range) if you're ever in that region of the USA.
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:
Sadly I'm not returning to Squamish again soon, just on the lookout for the pure friction smearing corners (like easier versions of the shadow). I'll have a look at the routes you suggest
I think in general there's not many of these in the UK - I think they are mostly on granite of the sort you find in other countries.
Thanks all for suggestions
In reply to James Oswald:
Lovely photo of the top pitch of direct route dinas mot in this article
In reply to Baron Weasel:
First time I did Direct I left my EBs (it was that long ago) in the hut and led it in a pair of trainers that had lost virtually all the tread. Start of the top pitch was "interesting", every time I got into a bridged position, both feet would slowly slide down before I could reach the proper holds. Took many goes before I managed to just reach the holds before the shoe slide
In reply to James Oswald:
I've not done it, but what about the Peapod at Curbar?
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