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Welcome to the third week of Challenge 555, I hope you are all training hard.
Challenge 555 goals (November 5th)
=============================
biscuit: get fingerboard up (x), down to 12% body fat (x) 7b circuit (x) insulate van (x)
AlanLittle: redpoint 7b on Kalymnos (x)
AJM: Force Majeure or other fb7 (x) Do some DWS (/) An E2 or E3 (x) Steady Training for trip (x)
The sheep: sub-2 hour half marathon (x) weight below 15 stone (x)
Just Tintin: Lead E4 route (x) Complete Morocco tick list (x) Boulder 7A/7A+ (x) WFD (x) Lose a couple of kg and 'tone up' a bit (x) Run a successful WCS (x)
Dandan82: Nina Mala in one hang (x) Another 8a route (x) 3 x 7c/+ (x)
MrChewy: First 7a (x)
Ally Smith: 2 of this: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=2181
guy127917: 5s video of handstand (x) indoor v6 (x) -5kg one arm 5s hang on BM1000 edge (x) First 7a+ (x)
annak: hill fit for the alps (x)
hms: wye valley challenge (x) magma1 (x) 7b in Ariege (x) shunt Armistice E6 (x) Dial moves on Storm Warning (x)
snoop6060: onsight/flash 7c (x)
planetmarshall: The file (x) Banana Finger (x) Crescent Arete (x) The Unconquerables (x)
Tyler: 555 pull ups (x) 555 press ups (x)
mattrm: 555 pull ups (x) 555 press ups (x)
Tom Green: Regular shoulder rehab (x) Grit E1 (x) Limestone E1 (x) F6A in Font (x) 5km at 5min/km (x)
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=670898
TheFasting: Welcome back, good to hear you making progress conquering your fears!
guy127917: Good week last week, must work harder on nutrition.
mrchewy: Sounds like you made some great progress last week. You should be able to build that core strength pretty quickly if you are consistent with it, especially if you are getting back to a previous level. By the way have you read through this https://www.thebmc.co.uk/how-to-climb-7a-10-tips-secrets-steve-mcclure
mattrm: Well you’re off the mark with the 555 goal, did you manage to fit our 9 a day in this week?
AJM: Nice test result. 22% gain is impressive given the volume of training you seem to do (in comparison to certain other people)
AlanLittle: Your Berchtesgaden expedition sounds like a great short term goal to focus the mind!
Tom Green: Do you feel like you are ready to tackle all your STG’s or is there real conditioning work to be done besides the rehab?
biscuit: Bodyfat as measured on scales is such a random number, I recommend not using it as a daily measure, especially if you get motivated/bummed as a result. Even the pro ones like DEXA are really inaccurate. (They’re ok for a long term trend etc)
Ally Smith: It’s really good that you’re able to retrospect and make long term adjustments.
the sheep: It can’t go 100% to plan every week. I’m sorry to hear about your father.
annak: Glad you enjoyed the unplanned bivvy, sounds like a good adventure!
Dandan: 555 pseudo planche pushups? (from overcoming gravity)
hms: I really need to stop ignoring that half crimp advice I keep hearing!!
planetmarshall: The best laid plans etc!
snoop6060: Oh dear, not a good start! Whats the injury update? Have you consulted any medical professionals?
Si dH: Welcome back and congrats on your dadclub membership. It’s good to hear you are finding time to fit climbing in.
Challenge 555 goals (November 5th)
=============================
biscuit: get fingerboard up (x), down to 12% body fat (x) 7b circuit (x) insulate van (x)
AlanLittle: redpoint 7b on Kalymnos (x)
AJM: Force Majeure or other fb7 (x) Do some DWS (/) An E2 or E3 (x) Steady Training for trip (x)
The sheep: sub-2 hour half marathon (x) weight below 15 stone (x)
Just Tintin: Lead E4 route (x) Complete Morocco tick list (x) Boulder 7A/7A+ (x) WFD (x) Lose a couple of kg and 'tone up' a bit (x) Run a successful WCS (x)
Dandan82: Nina Mala in one hang (x) Another 8a route (x) 3 x 7c/+ (x)
MrChewy: First 7a (x)
Ally Smith: 2 of this: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=2181
guy127917: 5s video of handstand (x) indoor v6 (x) -5kg one arm 5s hang on BM1000 edge (x) First 7a+ (x)
annak: hill fit for the alps (x)
hms: wye valley challenge (x) magma1 (x) 7b in Ariege (x) shunt Armistice E6 (x) Dial moves on Storm Warning (x)
snoop6060: onsight/flash 7c (x)
planetmarshall: The file (x) Banana Finger (x) Crescent Arete (x) The Unconquerables (x)
Tyler: 555 pull ups (x) 555 press ups (x)
mattrm: 555 pull ups (x) 555 press ups (x)
Tom Green: Regular shoulder rehab (x) Grit E1 (x) Limestone E1 (x) F6A in Font (x) 5km at 5min/km (x)
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=670898
TheFasting: Welcome back, good to hear you making progress conquering your fears!
guy127917: Good week last week, must work harder on nutrition.
mrchewy: Sounds like you made some great progress last week. You should be able to build that core strength pretty quickly if you are consistent with it, especially if you are getting back to a previous level. By the way have you read through this https://www.thebmc.co.uk/how-to-climb-7a-10-tips-secrets-steve-mcclure
mattrm: Well you’re off the mark with the 555 goal, did you manage to fit our 9 a day in this week?
AJM: Nice test result. 22% gain is impressive given the volume of training you seem to do (in comparison to certain other people)
AlanLittle: Your Berchtesgaden expedition sounds like a great short term goal to focus the mind!
Tom Green: Do you feel like you are ready to tackle all your STG’s or is there real conditioning work to be done besides the rehab?
biscuit: Bodyfat as measured on scales is such a random number, I recommend not using it as a daily measure, especially if you get motivated/bummed as a result. Even the pro ones like DEXA are really inaccurate. (They’re ok for a long term trend etc)
Ally Smith: It’s really good that you’re able to retrospect and make long term adjustments.
the sheep: It can’t go 100% to plan every week. I’m sorry to hear about your father.
annak: Glad you enjoyed the unplanned bivvy, sounds like a good adventure!
Dandan: 555 pseudo planche pushups? (from overcoming gravity)
hms: I really need to stop ignoring that half crimp advice I keep hearing!!
planetmarshall: The best laid plans etc!
snoop6060: Oh dear, not a good start! Whats the injury update? Have you consulted any medical professionals?
Si dH: Welcome back and congrats on your dadclub membership. It’s good to hear you are finding time to fit climbing in.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. Medium term weather forecast looking good for ...
STG (Sept): ukb Berchtesgaden Expedition.
MTG (Oct): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Bike one hour
T: Beastmaker max hangs. Tried doing these in the morning before work instead of in the evening before bed, in the hope of not wrecking my Wednesday evening routes session like I did last week.
.. which seemed to work.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Nine routes up to 6c,including four on a sector that overhangs six metres in twenty. I have not been a regular visitor to this sector in the past, but I will be for the next month.
Generally I feel that something is coming together with my movement skills & confidence - money well spent with Mr Kettle. The question is whether I can add a significant improvement in fitness to that in the space of a month.
T: Weather forecast put me off biking to work; did 12 x 10 storey stair climbing intervals at work instead.
F: Bike one hour.
Wall, Boulderwelt with my son. An hour bouldering, focusing on doing as many problems around my onsight limit as possible with not much rest, followed by ten rounds of steep circuits and half an hour shoulder & elbow p/rehab in the weights room.
S: Rain, shopping, diy. Did therabar exercises for golfer's elbow while watching Adidas Rockstars - vive la Pooch.
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Eleven rounds of circuits. Definitely not fully recovered from Friday, but training in a not fully recovered state is probably a good idea for the next four weeks given that I'm hoping to manage a two-on-one-off rhythm in Kaly.
Thanks Guy. Medium term weather forecast looking good for ...
STG (Sept): ukb Berchtesgaden Expedition.
MTG (Oct): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Bike one hour
T: Beastmaker max hangs. Tried doing these in the morning before work instead of in the evening before bed, in the hope of not wrecking my Wednesday evening routes session like I did last week.
.. which seemed to work.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Nine routes up to 6c,including four on a sector that overhangs six metres in twenty. I have not been a regular visitor to this sector in the past, but I will be for the next month.
Generally I feel that something is coming together with my movement skills & confidence - money well spent with Mr Kettle. The question is whether I can add a significant improvement in fitness to that in the space of a month.
T: Weather forecast put me off biking to work; did 12 x 10 storey stair climbing intervals at work instead.
F: Bike one hour.
Wall, Boulderwelt with my son. An hour bouldering, focusing on doing as many problems around my onsight limit as possible with not much rest, followed by ten rounds of steep circuits and half an hour shoulder & elbow p/rehab in the weights room.
S: Rain, shopping, diy. Did therabar exercises for golfer's elbow while watching Adidas Rockstars - vive la Pooch.
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Eleven rounds of circuits. Definitely not fully recovered from Friday, but training in a not fully recovered state is probably a good idea for the next four weeks given that I'm hoping to manage a two-on-one-off rhythm in Kaly.
4
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks guy, looks like you've a lot to keep track of with the 555 goals!
Good question as to my climbing STGs...
I think they are realistic without too much work (above and beyond some steady shoulder stuff) as I think success will be more down to cunning, technique and headgame than the physical aspects.
First STG/555 goal ticked this week, with a 24:50 5km. Not quite Chariots of Fire, but chuffed to hit an STG.
M: road run. 5k in 24.50
T: indoor climbing at boardroom. Laps on autobelay (3reps of 4route blocks) followed by 60 sit ups (3x20)
W: shoulder exercises (band)
T: rest
F: shoulder exercises (band)
S: bouldering at monument. High mileage on V0-V1 with one V2.
S: nothing.
Thanks guy, looks like you've a lot to keep track of with the 555 goals!
Good question as to my climbing STGs...
I think they are realistic without too much work (above and beyond some steady shoulder stuff) as I think success will be more down to cunning, technique and headgame than the physical aspects.
First STG/555 goal ticked this week, with a 24:50 5km. Not quite Chariots of Fire, but chuffed to hit an STG.
M: road run. 5k in 24.50
T: indoor climbing at boardroom. Laps on autobelay (3reps of 4route blocks) followed by 60 sit ups (3x20)
W: shoulder exercises (band)
T: rest
F: shoulder exercises (band)
S: bouldering at monument. High mileage on V0-V1 with one V2.
S: nothing.
In reply to guy127917:
Not a great week for me last week.
Monday: Fun bouldering session, finished with 10 foot off 1-3-5 campus ladders, in pairs, 1 minute apart.
Tuesday: 4 mile run
Wednesday + Thursday: Rest
Friday: 4 mile run
Saturday: 6 easyish routes at Cheyne Wears before rain stopped play.
Sunday: 7 routes at the cuttings- sent The Cutting Edge (6c+) and Finesse (7a) both of which I dogged in the spring. Got on Blowing the Gimp (7a+) but was totally shut down, seems absolutely nails above the ledge. Still, progress to even try!
Last week I ate badly again, and it really affects my training. This week I have a pretty strict plan of exactly what training and eating I will be doing, my goal is just to stick to it 100%, no decision making required.
Not a great week for me last week.
Monday: Fun bouldering session, finished with 10 foot off 1-3-5 campus ladders, in pairs, 1 minute apart.
Tuesday: 4 mile run
Wednesday + Thursday: Rest
Friday: 4 mile run
Saturday: 6 easyish routes at Cheyne Wears before rain stopped play.
Sunday: 7 routes at the cuttings- sent The Cutting Edge (6c+) and Finesse (7a) both of which I dogged in the spring. Got on Blowing the Gimp (7a+) but was totally shut down, seems absolutely nails above the ledge. Still, progress to even try!
Last week I ate badly again, and it really affects my training. This week I have a pretty strict plan of exactly what training and eating I will be doing, my goal is just to stick to it 100%, no decision making required.
Post edited at 06:31
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks for the link Guy - I reckon I ticked most of the boxes apart from being the heaviest I've been in years, the climb being steep for me but on the other hand it's always dry.
Biggest change this week is going back to eating meat. Been eating vegan mostly for the last few weeks but it's no good for me. I've tried before and recovery suffered and I was properly ill for a couple of months in Siurana two winters back. It's not for me.
Mon - Loughborough 2.5hrs. Super tired and tweaky (hence decision to have a meat diet again) but a fun night. Followed the comp problems. 9 was impossible for me, 12 and 13 too busy but otherwise flashed up to and including problem 16. Worked a load of V4s and did some laps of the 5+ circuit.
Tue - Rest day.
Wed - Spent the evening in hospital with a piece of wire stuck in my eye
Thu - Using an electric sander above my head all day. Elbows and wrists turned to jelly. In bed at 6.30pm for a 12hr sleep.
Fri - Went to the wall but elbows not recovered from the sander, so did nowt.
Sat - Rest day.
Sun - Rubicon on the 555 project. First and second goes bad as forgot chalk bag and didn't like new long sleeved t-shirt. Third go best yet. Fourth go could have clipped last bolt but spent ages trying other ideas in my head and then it was too late to clip. Super happy after. Next two goes was too pooped to repeat this. Top day and genuinely happy with progress.
A bad week for training due to various things but the best climb yet at Rubicon, a whole load better than even the last visit two weeks ago. Paul is convinced I can do it now but we'll see. He's looking solid on the Sissy too.
Sleeping much better since Tuesday and feeling a lot perkier again - there's meat back in the diet but as much as I hate the thought, gonna have to cut down on the calories for the next few weeks to do this 555 shizzle.
Roll on next Sunday.
Thanks for the link Guy - I reckon I ticked most of the boxes apart from being the heaviest I've been in years, the climb being steep for me but on the other hand it's always dry.
Biggest change this week is going back to eating meat. Been eating vegan mostly for the last few weeks but it's no good for me. I've tried before and recovery suffered and I was properly ill for a couple of months in Siurana two winters back. It's not for me.
Mon - Loughborough 2.5hrs. Super tired and tweaky (hence decision to have a meat diet again) but a fun night. Followed the comp problems. 9 was impossible for me, 12 and 13 too busy but otherwise flashed up to and including problem 16. Worked a load of V4s and did some laps of the 5+ circuit.
Tue - Rest day.
Wed - Spent the evening in hospital with a piece of wire stuck in my eye
Thu - Using an electric sander above my head all day. Elbows and wrists turned to jelly. In bed at 6.30pm for a 12hr sleep.
Fri - Went to the wall but elbows not recovered from the sander, so did nowt.
Sat - Rest day.
Sun - Rubicon on the 555 project. First and second goes bad as forgot chalk bag and didn't like new long sleeved t-shirt. Third go best yet. Fourth go could have clipped last bolt but spent ages trying other ideas in my head and then it was too late to clip. Super happy after. Next two goes was too pooped to repeat this. Top day and genuinely happy with progress.
A bad week for training due to various things but the best climb yet at Rubicon, a whole load better than even the last visit two weeks ago. Paul is convinced I can do it now but we'll see. He's looking solid on the Sissy too.
Sleeping much better since Tuesday and feeling a lot perkier again - there's meat back in the diet but as much as I hate the thought, gonna have to cut down on the calories for the next few weeks to do this 555 shizzle.
Roll on next Sunday.
Post edited at 07:38
2
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy.
2017:
- Fix my finger injury
- Shoulder/core training: 3 sessions per week while I'm unable to pull at max power on my fingers (and while I'm heavy!)
January-March 2018:
- do a grit 7B or two over the winter
- weight down to 11 stone 4
April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse
M: nothing
T: daddy day off - took Sol out to Matlock and had a couple of hours at The P. Did The Universal (f7A). It's quite hard for the grade. Sol slept the whole time.
W: upright rows, reverse flies, IYTs in my cellar (3×5 of each).
T: as per Wednesday, plus half a Fingerboard session (cyrrently thiese jus involve doing a few 2 armed hangs on the 18mm edges to gradually fix my finger, currently I can get up to around + 15kg with no pain if I am well warmed up, more than that starts to hurt pretty fast.
F: nothing
S: nothing
S: stole a few hours in the morning for a session at Eastwood. Figured it would better for the finger than limestone, although the right hand crimp halfway does aggravate it a bit. Just did lots of links of ~1/3rds rather than trying it properly and gave beta to a local who was just starting to try it. Fun session and got a decent workout for shoulders/core.
Just about met my training goal if I include the Eastwood trip as well as the cellar work.
Cheers Guy.
2017:
- Fix my finger injury
- Shoulder/core training: 3 sessions per week while I'm unable to pull at max power on my fingers (and while I'm heavy!)
January-March 2018:
- do a grit 7B or two over the winter
- weight down to 11 stone 4
April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse
M: nothing
T: daddy day off - took Sol out to Matlock and had a couple of hours at The P. Did The Universal (f7A). It's quite hard for the grade. Sol slept the whole time.
W: upright rows, reverse flies, IYTs in my cellar (3×5 of each).
T: as per Wednesday, plus half a Fingerboard session (cyrrently thiese jus involve doing a few 2 armed hangs on the 18mm edges to gradually fix my finger, currently I can get up to around + 15kg with no pain if I am well warmed up, more than that starts to hurt pretty fast.
F: nothing
S: nothing
S: stole a few hours in the morning for a session at Eastwood. Figured it would better for the finger than limestone, although the right hand crimp halfway does aggravate it a bit. Just did lots of links of ~1/3rds rather than trying it properly and gave beta to a local who was just starting to try it. Fun session and got a decent workout for shoulders/core.
Just about met my training goal if I include the Eastwood trip as well as the cellar work.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Context: My medium term goal (yearly goal) and my new year's resolution for 2017 is to flash a 6a on lead.
Su: Solo indoor gym trip after vacation. All the progress came at once so I flashed a 6B+ boulder (like a 3 grade flash PR) and a bunch of 6As and some 6A+. Then jumped on the auto-belay and actually toproped a 6a+ on the second go, which was a big PR as well. I haven't really dared doing anything above 5b routes for so long it's a big mental boost to know a 6a is within reach on lead (and hopefully outdoors).
M: Too busy with school
T: Indoor climbing on lead with a friend. Did a 3b, 5b on autobelay, then lead climbed 5a, then a 5c, a 5c+, all flashes. Attempted a 6a flash. Sooo close to that 6a flash I can smell it.
On the 6a when I fell I went down past 3 bolts until I was at the second bolt from the ground. Belayer had only belayed with a girl who only climbs toprope so I guess he wasn't expecting a lead fall or something. Also got a bad habit of standing out from the wall since last time we climbed together. So fell a meter longer.
Good news is that I never was very scared of the height or falling in this whole session. Feels like a ton has been lifted off my shoulders. Now I just have to learn how to climb things.
W: Nothing.
T: 2.5 hour bouldering session. Couldn't help myself and put on my harness to do a 6a I fell off on sunday. It went, but after 2 hours of bouldering my arms just about fell off.
F: Back in the weight room. Did 3 sets of 10 of 70 kg squats, 60 kg bench and 80 kg deadlifts, going to increase these by 5 kg/2.5 kg until I can't, then lower the reps until I need a more advanced program.
Decided to go for the big milestone PR with weighted pull-ups before I start the pull-up program again. Finally got 40 kg (50% bodyweight added): https://www.instagram.com/p/BZI8WUwB975/?taken-by=thefasting
Sa: Finally good enough weather to do trad climbing on Kolsås. Started with Juristen (n3+) (that's an F3c? Hah sometimes these old Kolsås routes are pretty sandbagged).
Then got the big tick with a trad PR and my first climb of the most classic route in Norway, Hollywood (n4+). Been wanting that one for a long time. Very cool route too, sharp cracks, big flakes, nothing but friction for the feet a lot of places. Pumpfest for my calves. Was very on the edge of my abilities but I made it up somehow. This route was perhaps the first non-sandbagged easy route I've done on Kolsås.
Big PR with my first F4c trad lead, previous was F4a. What's the UK adjective grading for a well protected F4c?
Context: My medium term goal (yearly goal) and my new year's resolution for 2017 is to flash a 6a on lead.
Su: Solo indoor gym trip after vacation. All the progress came at once so I flashed a 6B+ boulder (like a 3 grade flash PR) and a bunch of 6As and some 6A+. Then jumped on the auto-belay and actually toproped a 6a+ on the second go, which was a big PR as well. I haven't really dared doing anything above 5b routes for so long it's a big mental boost to know a 6a is within reach on lead (and hopefully outdoors).
M: Too busy with school
T: Indoor climbing on lead with a friend. Did a 3b, 5b on autobelay, then lead climbed 5a, then a 5c, a 5c+, all flashes. Attempted a 6a flash. Sooo close to that 6a flash I can smell it.
On the 6a when I fell I went down past 3 bolts until I was at the second bolt from the ground. Belayer had only belayed with a girl who only climbs toprope so I guess he wasn't expecting a lead fall or something. Also got a bad habit of standing out from the wall since last time we climbed together. So fell a meter longer.
Good news is that I never was very scared of the height or falling in this whole session. Feels like a ton has been lifted off my shoulders. Now I just have to learn how to climb things.
W: Nothing.
T: 2.5 hour bouldering session. Couldn't help myself and put on my harness to do a 6a I fell off on sunday. It went, but after 2 hours of bouldering my arms just about fell off.
F: Back in the weight room. Did 3 sets of 10 of 70 kg squats, 60 kg bench and 80 kg deadlifts, going to increase these by 5 kg/2.5 kg until I can't, then lower the reps until I need a more advanced program.
Decided to go for the big milestone PR with weighted pull-ups before I start the pull-up program again. Finally got 40 kg (50% bodyweight added): https://www.instagram.com/p/BZI8WUwB975/?taken-by=thefasting
Sa: Finally good enough weather to do trad climbing on Kolsås. Started with Juristen (n3+) (that's an F3c? Hah sometimes these old Kolsås routes are pretty sandbagged).
Then got the big tick with a trad PR and my first climb of the most classic route in Norway, Hollywood (n4+). Been wanting that one for a long time. Very cool route too, sharp cracks, big flakes, nothing but friction for the feet a lot of places. Pumpfest for my calves. Was very on the edge of my abilities but I made it up somehow. This route was perhaps the first non-sandbagged easy route I've done on Kolsås.
Big PR with my first F4c trad lead, previous was F4a. What's the UK adjective grading for a well protected F4c?
2
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers for top statting as always guy!
I'll have to dig out my copy and check them out but it could be a goer as long as they can be more 'pseudo' than 'planche'!
This week was going so well until Thursday, when the Golfer's elbow that I had been comfortably ignoring as a minor niggle became a more major issue. Ah well, I was about due another injury!
M: Core; new timed session, felt pretty comfortable
Lower body stretching
T: Indoor Boulder; Forced time projects, 6 hard boulders in 12 minute blocks with max 4 goes per boulder. Did this with a friend and it was a great session.
W: TRX; real progress on these exercises, now doing comfortable horizontal prone flys, deep locked low rows with no momentum and reverse flys/T's at a really steep angle. Also managed sets of 4,4,4,4 each arm on the typewriters.
Antagonist theraband
T: Indoor Boulder; Fingerboard, 1 arm assist stuff on Lattice edge (handy to have one at the local wall) I used more assistance than usual to protect the finger, pulling as needed on a fixed sling.
Boulder mileage forced intervals, 20 problems in 25 minutes, 2 sets. I went off a bit fast and completed the first set in a panicky 18 minutes! Probably indicates I need more harder problems but its a new set so I don't know them all. Really good session, lots of fun.
Lower body stretches.
After this session my golfers elbow really flared up, I don't know why, it wasn't the most intense or hardest session I've done recently.
F: Tried to rest the elbow but had promised to help my dad lay a wood floor. I avoided the hardest jobs but I could tell the elbow wasn't very happy, I could feel discomfort even with some very minor wrist/finger movements.
S: Indoor Routes; Super slow warm up into 1 on 1 off at 7a-ish, this is the first time the elbow has actually hurt during climbing, got through the session ok but there was soreness in certain positions, mostly straight armed on crimps or pulled in on a deep bent elbow, especially on anything undercut.
S: Complete rest, tried to ignore the elbow and not fuss it. It feels much improved today (Monday) so I think some swelling has subsided, which says it's not (yet) a full blown tendinopathy which don't tend to improve that fast.
Some careful attention and controlled use and loading is required this week, i'll have to see how it progresses.
Last week's STG:
* keep finger happy by being more selective with indoor holds and routes - TICK
* More neck stretches - forgot about this
*Introduce more monos into problems - TICK
new STG:
* keep finger happy by being more selective with indoor holds and routes
* More neck stretches
* Be nice to Elbow
MTG: (next few months)
* Progress on Nina mala/flash over in Margalef
* Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger doing OK, golfers annoying.
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Illusions (7c) - TICK
* Megalomania (7c) - TICK
* Sirene (7c) - TICK
* Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c)
* Detonator (7c)
* Tennessee (7c)
* Prison Sex (7c+)
* Nightmare Scenario (7c)
* The Breathing Method (8a)
* Monoculture (7c+)
LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 3 done and 1 more booked!
* tick 3 x 8a - 2/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook) - 4/10
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year
Cheers for top statting as always guy!
> Dandan: 555 pseudo planche pushups? (from overcoming gravity)
I'll have to dig out my copy and check them out but it could be a goer as long as they can be more 'pseudo' than 'planche'!
This week was going so well until Thursday, when the Golfer's elbow that I had been comfortably ignoring as a minor niggle became a more major issue. Ah well, I was about due another injury!
M: Core; new timed session, felt pretty comfortable
Lower body stretching
T: Indoor Boulder; Forced time projects, 6 hard boulders in 12 minute blocks with max 4 goes per boulder. Did this with a friend and it was a great session.
W: TRX; real progress on these exercises, now doing comfortable horizontal prone flys, deep locked low rows with no momentum and reverse flys/T's at a really steep angle. Also managed sets of 4,4,4,4 each arm on the typewriters.
Antagonist theraband
T: Indoor Boulder; Fingerboard, 1 arm assist stuff on Lattice edge (handy to have one at the local wall) I used more assistance than usual to protect the finger, pulling as needed on a fixed sling.
Boulder mileage forced intervals, 20 problems in 25 minutes, 2 sets. I went off a bit fast and completed the first set in a panicky 18 minutes! Probably indicates I need more harder problems but its a new set so I don't know them all. Really good session, lots of fun.
Lower body stretches.
After this session my golfers elbow really flared up, I don't know why, it wasn't the most intense or hardest session I've done recently.
F: Tried to rest the elbow but had promised to help my dad lay a wood floor. I avoided the hardest jobs but I could tell the elbow wasn't very happy, I could feel discomfort even with some very minor wrist/finger movements.
S: Indoor Routes; Super slow warm up into 1 on 1 off at 7a-ish, this is the first time the elbow has actually hurt during climbing, got through the session ok but there was soreness in certain positions, mostly straight armed on crimps or pulled in on a deep bent elbow, especially on anything undercut.
S: Complete rest, tried to ignore the elbow and not fuss it. It feels much improved today (Monday) so I think some swelling has subsided, which says it's not (yet) a full blown tendinopathy which don't tend to improve that fast.
Some careful attention and controlled use and loading is required this week, i'll have to see how it progresses.
Last week's STG:
* keep finger happy by being more selective with indoor holds and routes - TICK
* More neck stretches - forgot about this
*Introduce more monos into problems - TICK
new STG:
* keep finger happy by being more selective with indoor holds and routes
* More neck stretches
* Be nice to Elbow
MTG: (next few months)
* Progress on Nina mala/flash over in Margalef
* Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger doing OK, golfers annoying.
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Illusions (7c) - TICK
* Megalomania (7c) - TICK
* Sirene (7c) - TICK
* Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c)
* Detonator (7c)
* Tennessee (7c)
* Prison Sex (7c+)
* Nightmare Scenario (7c)
* The Breathing Method (8a)
* Monoculture (7c+)
LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 3 done and 1 more booked!
* tick 3 x 8a - 2/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook) - 4/10
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year
1
1
In reply to mrchewy:
Have you tried the section from the last bolt to the chains? For me passing the last bolt was the crux (as in I couldn’t do it in the time available) and the rest was ok *if you know the non-obvious foot beta*.
It would be a shame to get the crux and then have to do it over & over again while you spend more time grinding away at the rest ground-up. Tactically cleverer perhaps to get through the crux and then think “ok, I know what to do now & I’m in with a realistic chance if I can just keep it together”. At least that’s what I would think, but everybody’s different.
Have you tried the section from the last bolt to the chains? For me passing the last bolt was the crux (as in I couldn’t do it in the time available) and the rest was ok *if you know the non-obvious foot beta*.
It would be a shame to get the crux and then have to do it over & over again while you spend more time grinding away at the rest ground-up. Tactically cleverer perhaps to get through the crux and then think “ok, I know what to do now & I’m in with a realistic chance if I can just keep it together”. At least that’s what I would think, but everybody’s different.
1
In reply to TheFasting:
Probably about HS, maybe VS
> Big PR with my first F4c trad lead, previous was F4a. What's the UK adjective grading for a well protected F4c?
Probably about HS, maybe VS
Post edited at 08:31
1
In reply to AlanLittle:
Not been on the last bit at all - I guess seconding from the last bolt to the chains would be the tactical/sensible option but the beta is burnt into my head and I'd really like to do it ground up.
Doing the crux over and over addresses a very definite weakness in my left arm and shoulder, so in itself it's good training and I'm definitely feeling stronger when bouldering indoors since I started this.
The traverse last section happily heads diagonal right which plays to any strengths I may have and for that reason alone I'm gonna give it a go ground up.
You are right however...
Not been on the last bit at all - I guess seconding from the last bolt to the chains would be the tactical/sensible option but the beta is burnt into my head and I'd really like to do it ground up.
Doing the crux over and over addresses a very definite weakness in my left arm and shoulder, so in itself it's good training and I'm definitely feeling stronger when bouldering indoors since I started this.
The traverse last section happily heads diagonal right which plays to any strengths I may have and for that reason alone I'm gonna give it a go ground up.
You are right however...
In reply to guy127917:
Week 38
M - Rehab workout;
4x 40s work/20s rest on:
scapular pull-up hold, side-plank, calf raise hold, plank & v-sit.
4x(35kg deadlift x12, OHP x8, wrist-curl x12, 20 rep external rotator)
T - For the first time in ages, slept like a log and felt rejuvenated in the morning – get in! Too much work, no time for exercise.
W - Tor - after work lantern session. Warmed up, then worked bomb-proof beta for the direct finish to Ben's Roof (f7C). Once sorted, glued on the knee-pad, set off and nailed it first go! The roof/crimp crux felt piss – totally static! After re-working the extended start, had 2 good RP goes, where I got to the cut loose on Ben’s, but failed to hold the swing. Finished with by doing the direct finish 3 times to cement beta.
T - More rehab. Warm-up barbell circuit. OHP 3x45kg (too hard - lost form) 8x35kg twice. External rotators 20x3. Barbell finger curls, 8x45kg twice, 12x35kg. Next rehab session - 40kg is the way to go!
F - An-cap; boulder problem triples. Used lime V6’s on the steep side of awful walls, which are looking really tatty. Powered out on a couple of reps towards the end. Think I need to wire some of the "V7+" problems for this session?
S - Brothers stag do – karting, drinking, darting, drinking, gigging, drinking, semi-sleeping
S - Grotty night’s sleep and crowded train home made me a zombie. 25km flat on road bike. Early night.
Like Dan my elbow has been sore recently - need to nip it in the bud and do my hammer curl eccentrics and work again on shoulder stability to reduce reliance on elbow flexors to initiate climbing moves.
Hopefully back at the Tor this evening - rehab Tuesday
Week 38
M - Rehab workout;
4x 40s work/20s rest on:
scapular pull-up hold, side-plank, calf raise hold, plank & v-sit.
4x(35kg deadlift x12, OHP x8, wrist-curl x12, 20 rep external rotator)
T - For the first time in ages, slept like a log and felt rejuvenated in the morning – get in! Too much work, no time for exercise.
W - Tor - after work lantern session. Warmed up, then worked bomb-proof beta for the direct finish to Ben's Roof (f7C). Once sorted, glued on the knee-pad, set off and nailed it first go! The roof/crimp crux felt piss – totally static! After re-working the extended start, had 2 good RP goes, where I got to the cut loose on Ben’s, but failed to hold the swing. Finished with by doing the direct finish 3 times to cement beta.
T - More rehab. Warm-up barbell circuit. OHP 3x45kg (too hard - lost form) 8x35kg twice. External rotators 20x3. Barbell finger curls, 8x45kg twice, 12x35kg. Next rehab session - 40kg is the way to go!
F - An-cap; boulder problem triples. Used lime V6’s on the steep side of awful walls, which are looking really tatty. Powered out on a couple of reps towards the end. Think I need to wire some of the "V7+" problems for this session?
S - Brothers stag do – karting, drinking, darting, drinking, gigging, drinking, semi-sleeping
S - Grotty night’s sleep and crowded train home made me a zombie. 25km flat on road bike. Early night.
Like Dan my elbow has been sore recently - need to nip it in the bud and do my hammer curl eccentrics and work again on shoulder stability to reduce reliance on elbow flexors to initiate climbing moves.
Hopefully back at the Tor this evening - rehab Tuesday
2
In reply to Ally Smith:
Now this is interesting, is reducing reliance on elbow flexors a conscious thing or are you hoping it will be an unconscious symptom of stronger shoulder stability?
If there is some kind of method of 'thinking shoulders' when initiating moves, i'd be keen to know more about it.
Then again I think my shoulder stability is probably the best it has ever been right now, my issue is just dealing with this new technique of actually straightening my arms occasionally mid-route! Still, that's not to say there isn't more than one cause...
> Like Dan my elbow has been sore recently - need to nip it in the bud and do my hammer curl eccentrics and work again on shoulder stability to reduce reliance on elbow flexors to initiate climbing moves.
Now this is interesting, is reducing reliance on elbow flexors a conscious thing or are you hoping it will be an unconscious symptom of stronger shoulder stability?
If there is some kind of method of 'thinking shoulders' when initiating moves, i'd be keen to know more about it.
Then again I think my shoulder stability is probably the best it has ever been right now, my issue is just dealing with this new technique of actually straightening my arms occasionally mid-route! Still, that's not to say there isn't more than one cause...
In reply to Dandan:
I have also been having golfers elbow issues recently, and interestingly I have found it's pretty uncorrelated to amount of climbing. Like bouldering does make it worse, for sure, but sometimes it has worsened over multiple rest days as well. I'm also wondering if cycling with flat bars contributes.
Ibuprofen has definitely helped the immediate issue (clearly not a long term fix). I've been finding Theraband flexbar pronators do help. When I saw an osteo about it a while ago she advised long forearm stretches to loosen the muscles, and massage on the forearm (with a small hard ball or something). It seems like different people respond very differently to different things for it (thinking of Tom R's weird laying down stretch!)
I have also been having golfers elbow issues recently, and interestingly I have found it's pretty uncorrelated to amount of climbing. Like bouldering does make it worse, for sure, but sometimes it has worsened over multiple rest days as well. I'm also wondering if cycling with flat bars contributes.
Ibuprofen has definitely helped the immediate issue (clearly not a long term fix). I've been finding Theraband flexbar pronators do help. When I saw an osteo about it a while ago she advised long forearm stretches to loosen the muscles, and massage on the forearm (with a small hard ball or something). It seems like different people respond very differently to different things for it (thinking of Tom R's weird laying down stretch!)
Post edited at 10:58
2
In reply to Dandan:
For me, there is a definite technique element that comes about from weaker shoulders - i avoid wide moves and bring my hand in front of my face as soon as possible - especially when fatigued. Over reliance on this technique mode places extra stress on the forearm extensors and brachialis = over-use symptoms.
If my shoulders are fresh/strong - i don't get the same symptoms. Stretching my pecs to allow my rotator cuff to fire better has also been suggested and is now a daily stretch.
For me, there is a definite technique element that comes about from weaker shoulders - i avoid wide moves and bring my hand in front of my face as soon as possible - especially when fatigued. Over reliance on this technique mode places extra stress on the forearm extensors and brachialis = over-use symptoms.
If my shoulders are fresh/strong - i don't get the same symptoms. Stretching my pecs to allow my rotator cuff to fire better has also been suggested and is now a daily stretch.
2
In reply to guy127917:
thanks Guy. I had a very busy week and might have over cooked it a bit - feeling wiped out today!
M - Dublin and slightly hassly journey home.
T - cycle commute. FB baseline session. My finger strength has improved which is good, my lactate curve is a tad steep but not surprising as I've been trying to concentrate on strength.
W - cycle commute. UCR routes, dozen in pairs. Ticked second go 'route 11' in the comp set which I'd guess was 7a+. Still struggling on the 7a fang route although I did get the hanging clip in this time. Still stuck on the bounce move on the 7b.
T - no cycle commute. drove to UCR and did ancap circuit bits - approx. 15 move chunk, 2 min rest, x4, 10 mins then whole lot again twice more. was quite glad I wasn't cycling home afterwards.
F - rest. Bit of urban walking.
S - Brean with CY. Supposed to be white cloud, was actually full on sun. Place was rammed and the world was trying SW/SW variation/Black snake moan. Permarope on my backup of El Chocco. Had a go at Casino Royale and was royally shut down by the crux. Short goes on first 4 clips of SW but using someone else's rope and draws and very conscious that they might want to RP at any moment, so pacing/mindset dead wrong. Crimps felt vicious and skin was sore in no time. Bah!
S - ByG with CY doing a Wye Valley Challenge recce. Couldn't have been a greater contrast. Very few other people, lots and lots of routes. We managed 13 of the 14 before running out of time and power. The ByG style gets me every time - I'm absolutely not attuned to it and was finding some of the 6as hard work.
thanks Guy. I had a very busy week and might have over cooked it a bit - feeling wiped out today!
M - Dublin and slightly hassly journey home.
T - cycle commute. FB baseline session. My finger strength has improved which is good, my lactate curve is a tad steep but not surprising as I've been trying to concentrate on strength.
W - cycle commute. UCR routes, dozen in pairs. Ticked second go 'route 11' in the comp set which I'd guess was 7a+. Still struggling on the 7a fang route although I did get the hanging clip in this time. Still stuck on the bounce move on the 7b.
T - no cycle commute. drove to UCR and did ancap circuit bits - approx. 15 move chunk, 2 min rest, x4, 10 mins then whole lot again twice more. was quite glad I wasn't cycling home afterwards.
F - rest. Bit of urban walking.
S - Brean with CY. Supposed to be white cloud, was actually full on sun. Place was rammed and the world was trying SW/SW variation/Black snake moan. Permarope on my backup of El Chocco. Had a go at Casino Royale and was royally shut down by the crux. Short goes on first 4 clips of SW but using someone else's rope and draws and very conscious that they might want to RP at any moment, so pacing/mindset dead wrong. Crimps felt vicious and skin was sore in no time. Bah!
S - ByG with CY doing a Wye Valley Challenge recce. Couldn't have been a greater contrast. Very few other people, lots and lots of routes. We managed 13 of the 14 before running out of time and power. The ByG style gets me every time - I'm absolutely not attuned to it and was finding some of the 6as hard work.
2
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers, a better week gone by. More active although I had to cut out the running due to my ankle still feeling dodgy. Still managed to squeeze in enough feel it was a more productive week than the previous one.
Monday, 16km ride home from work
Tuesday, 1km lunchtime swim
Wednesday, 1km lunchtime swim and 31km ride home
Thursday, 15km ride in, 1km lunchtime swim and 16km ride home
Friday, 1km lunchtime swim and 44km ride home
No exercise over the weekend, had folks round for the eldest daughters 14th birthday. Cooked up a Mexican feast on Saturday and an Indian feast on Sunday. Not helping my 555 goals here
> the sheep: It can’t go 100% to plan every week. I’m sorry to hear about your father.
Cheers, a better week gone by. More active although I had to cut out the running due to my ankle still feeling dodgy. Still managed to squeeze in enough feel it was a more productive week than the previous one.
Monday, 16km ride home from work
Tuesday, 1km lunchtime swim
Wednesday, 1km lunchtime swim and 31km ride home
Thursday, 15km ride in, 1km lunchtime swim and 16km ride home
Friday, 1km lunchtime swim and 44km ride home
No exercise over the weekend, had folks round for the eldest daughters 14th birthday. Cooked up a Mexican feast on Saturday and an Indian feast on Sunday. Not helping my 555 goals here
In reply to Si dH:
Glad to hear you feel that about The Universal (f7A) - have worked it on and off for quite a bit and not getting very far. Would be interested to see what you think of Gravity Grave (f7B) if you head there again
Glad to hear you feel that about The Universal (f7A) - have worked it on and off for quite a bit and not getting very far. Would be interested to see what you think of Gravity Grave (f7B) if you head there again
3
In reply to Ally Smith:
True, I always think of it as more of a 'disagree' button than a 'sorry to hear that' button. I'm just a delicate flower, figuratively and physically if my elbows are anything to go by!
True, I always think of it as more of a 'disagree' button than a 'sorry to hear that' button. I'm just a delicate flower, figuratively and physically if my elbows are anything to go by!
1
In reply to Just Tintin:
Will do - not tried it, does it have any nasty rh crimps?
If you want alternatives, parklife and pretender are both easier 7As.
> Glad to hear you feel that about The Universal (f7A) - have worked it on and off for quite a bit and not getting very far. Would be interested to see what you think of Gravity Grave (f7B) if you head there again
Will do - not tried it, does it have any nasty rh crimps?
If you want alternatives, parklife and pretender are both easier 7As.
In reply to guy127917:
Calling me a slacker?
Quite right
It was a relief in some ways to switch to an old-style strength program when miniAJM turned up - short intense sessions, long rests, all that. In theory, that shouldn't work so well for getting fit, which means I'm sure I could have done more with the amount of time/dedication of some of my peers. But then foot on campus based stuff is pretty good on a bang per buck basis which helps me a bit.
So, midweek was quiet for me. I did the decay test I shared last week, but then we experienced round 2 of the nursery snot& grot so aside from a walk carrying the wee man collecting blackberries didn't do anything else.
The snot&grot put paid to ideas of climbing Friday, although thankfully it was receding for the wedding on Saturday.
Sunday was an interesting day. We got out to Curbar and with the masses in attendance I sorted out a sequence on Trackside (f7A). Then it rained. We tried to drive to a cafe and had an entertaining time trying to get the van back out - wheels spinning and in the end we used my foot pad under the wheels to help provide some grip. By that time it had dried up and we eventually returned. Got on fairly well, rocking over properly onto the heel twice. But with no spotter (childminding) it all felt a bit weird so I bottled it. Then MiniAJM went weird on us and started screaming, which led to a visit to the hospital to get him checked out and a slightly dopy and sad evening where he looked mainly sleepy and miserable.
MiniAJM seemed his usual self this morning so on Si's recommendation we went to the P. Good short session. Ticked a few things and Parklife (f7A), which despite its low for the grade votes allows me to claim another 555 goal ticked off.
Currently at the services on the last leg of the drive home. Fingers crossed a few slightly more local and slightly quieter weekends coming up!
> AJM: Nice test result. 22% gain is impressive given the volume of training you seem to do (in comparison to certain other people)
Calling me a slacker?
Quite right
It was a relief in some ways to switch to an old-style strength program when miniAJM turned up - short intense sessions, long rests, all that. In theory, that shouldn't work so well for getting fit, which means I'm sure I could have done more with the amount of time/dedication of some of my peers. But then foot on campus based stuff is pretty good on a bang per buck basis which helps me a bit.
So, midweek was quiet for me. I did the decay test I shared last week, but then we experienced round 2 of the nursery snot& grot so aside from a walk carrying the wee man collecting blackberries didn't do anything else.
The snot&grot put paid to ideas of climbing Friday, although thankfully it was receding for the wedding on Saturday.
Sunday was an interesting day. We got out to Curbar and with the masses in attendance I sorted out a sequence on Trackside (f7A). Then it rained. We tried to drive to a cafe and had an entertaining time trying to get the van back out - wheels spinning and in the end we used my foot pad under the wheels to help provide some grip. By that time it had dried up and we eventually returned. Got on fairly well, rocking over properly onto the heel twice. But with no spotter (childminding) it all felt a bit weird so I bottled it. Then MiniAJM went weird on us and started screaming, which led to a visit to the hospital to get him checked out and a slightly dopy and sad evening where he looked mainly sleepy and miserable.
MiniAJM seemed his usual self this morning so on Si's recommendation we went to the P. Good short session. Ticked a few things and Parklife (f7A), which despite its low for the grade votes allows me to claim another 555 goal ticked off.
Currently at the services on the last leg of the drive home. Fingers crossed a few slightly more local and slightly quieter weekends coming up!
4
In reply to Ally Smith:
i've invented a super pec stretch that seems to help. I grasp a broomstick with a grip that's just a bit too narrow to do a full dislocate, take it over as far as I can, and hold there.
seems to mainly target the pec minor, which aiui is important for shoulder positioning.
i've invented a super pec stretch that seems to help. I grasp a broomstick with a grip that's just a bit too narrow to do a full dislocate, take it over as far as I can, and hold there.
seems to mainly target the pec minor, which aiui is important for shoulder positioning.
Post edited at 16:35
1
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy.
The scales have historically been accurate. Lower scores definitely equate to less muffin top. I had a client a few years ago who worked for Omron. He said the bits that went in to their £25 scales were the same as their £100 scales. The expensive ones just had more options/functions. Whilst they could be a couple of % out they would be that consistently. I know mine are about 2% out so my 12% goal is 10% ish. I am using them as a trend but not crying in the bathroom if one result doesn't fit with what I want. Well not much anyway.... This week has been mainly high 13% low 14% so progress still being made.
I got the fingerboard up and the roof and high side panels of the van insulated and carpeted. It will need to come out for some adjusting of the panels but I've broken the back of that part of the job. So 1 and a half goals done.
This is what I think I did this week:
Mon - 3 mile run in morning. Coaching at Depot. Got on circuit boards after. 6a,b,c done without touching down. 7a, 7a + done, 7b+ very hard and fell off 1/3rd in
Tue - 3 mile run in morning. Fingerboard session. Just some repeaters to get back into it.
Wed - Coaching at Depot. Circuit boards before. Did 6b twice (74 moves) then 5 min rest. Managed 6 repeats.
Thur - 3 mile run in morning. BUK in eve. Problems up to V6. Circuits - Got the 6b+ and 6c this time. Tried 7a but a cross through move to a pocket near end I don't like and a move right at the end that's bloody hard. May come back to it or may just move on to the 7b+.
Fri - 19 mile bike ride on new bike. Very fast and very exciting. Chuffed.
Sat - Nothing
Sun - Nothing
This week is last week before back to Uni. Weather looks like it's not going to play ball. My plan is:
BUK 2ce for boulders and circuits
Depot once for boulders (finish off summer boulder league) and circuits?
FIngerboard
Weekend - try and get out. Possibly Trowbarrow to look at soft E4/5's
Cheers Guy.
The scales have historically been accurate. Lower scores definitely equate to less muffin top. I had a client a few years ago who worked for Omron. He said the bits that went in to their £25 scales were the same as their £100 scales. The expensive ones just had more options/functions. Whilst they could be a couple of % out they would be that consistently. I know mine are about 2% out so my 12% goal is 10% ish. I am using them as a trend but not crying in the bathroom if one result doesn't fit with what I want. Well not much anyway.... This week has been mainly high 13% low 14% so progress still being made.
I got the fingerboard up and the roof and high side panels of the van insulated and carpeted. It will need to come out for some adjusting of the panels but I've broken the back of that part of the job. So 1 and a half goals done.
This is what I think I did this week:
Mon - 3 mile run in morning. Coaching at Depot. Got on circuit boards after. 6a,b,c done without touching down. 7a, 7a + done, 7b+ very hard and fell off 1/3rd in
Tue - 3 mile run in morning. Fingerboard session. Just some repeaters to get back into it.
Wed - Coaching at Depot. Circuit boards before. Did 6b twice (74 moves) then 5 min rest. Managed 6 repeats.
Thur - 3 mile run in morning. BUK in eve. Problems up to V6. Circuits - Got the 6b+ and 6c this time. Tried 7a but a cross through move to a pocket near end I don't like and a move right at the end that's bloody hard. May come back to it or may just move on to the 7b+.
Fri - 19 mile bike ride on new bike. Very fast and very exciting. Chuffed.
Sat - Nothing
Sun - Nothing
This week is last week before back to Uni. Weather looks like it's not going to play ball. My plan is:
BUK 2ce for boulders and circuits
Depot once for boulders (finish off summer boulder league) and circuits?
FIngerboard
Weekend - try and get out. Possibly Trowbarrow to look at soft E4/5's
1
In reply to biscuit:
I think I've sacked off the lilac 7A on account of being unable to do at least two of the moves. I can do the moves on the 7b+ but it's pretty intense.
> BUK in eve. Problems up to V6. Circuits - Got the 6b+ and 6c this time. Tried 7a but a cross through move to a pocket near end I don't like and a move right at the end that's bloody hard. May come back to it or may just move on to the 7b+
I think I've sacked off the lilac 7A on account of being unable to do at least two of the moves. I can do the moves on the 7b+ but it's pretty intense.
In reply to guy127917:
Last week's goals -
* 2 Upper body strength sessions/Fingerboard - Yes
* 2 Core sessions - One only
* 2 trail runs, long one at the weekend. One longer trail run at the weekend
* 1 Lower body strength session No
* 1 Lower body Strength Endurance session (hill climbs of some description) No
* 3 leads at HVS or above No
* 1 bouldering session. Yes, indoors
Better than last week but still some gaps to fill. I had two days with no training at all so I can definitely fit everything in. Enjoyed training at the Depot much more when I realised that the Black and Red circuits had been swapped round in terms of difficulty.
Mon - Upper body strength. Highlights - Pullups (3x2 @+20kg), Max hangs open hand (+2kg), half crimp (-18kg)
Tue - Nothing
Wed - Nothing
Thu - Upper body strength. Highlights - Pullups (1 @+22kg), Max hangs open hand (+4kg), half crimp (-16kg)
Fri - Bouldering @Depot. Blue/Black/Red pyramid
Sat - Trail Run @ Kinder (14km/600m)
Sun - A couple of routes at Stanage. Walked up to under The Unconquerables ready to have a go at my first 555 goal then it started to rain. Psyched out, climbed Fern Crack (VS 5a) and soloed Wall End Slab (VS 5a), which I was sure I'd done before but apparently not.
STG
Next week's goals -
* 2 Upper body strength sessions/Fingerboard
* 2 Core sessions
* 2 trail runs, or 1 long one at the weekend.
* 1 Lower body strength session
* 1 Lower body Strength Endurance session (hill climbs of some description)
* 3 leads at HVS or above
* 1 bouldering session.
MTG
OMM End October
Red Rocks in November
British Trad Routes:
The File (VS 4c)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
The Sloth (HVS 5a)
The HVSs on Hen Cloud
The Unconquerables
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
The Embankment routes at Millstone
Bouldering
Banana Finger (f6A)
Technical Master (f6B)
Crescent Arête (f5+)
LTG
The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Left Wall (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Vector (E2 5c)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) Solo (Spring 2018)
Scottish Winter 2017/18
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Dalriada (E7 6b)
Something on El Capitan.
Last week's goals -
* 2 Upper body strength sessions/Fingerboard - Yes
* 2 Core sessions - One only
* 2 trail runs, long one at the weekend. One longer trail run at the weekend
* 1 Lower body strength session No
* 1 Lower body Strength Endurance session (hill climbs of some description) No
* 3 leads at HVS or above No
* 1 bouldering session. Yes, indoors
Better than last week but still some gaps to fill. I had two days with no training at all so I can definitely fit everything in. Enjoyed training at the Depot much more when I realised that the Black and Red circuits had been swapped round in terms of difficulty.
Mon - Upper body strength. Highlights - Pullups (3x2 @+20kg), Max hangs open hand (+2kg), half crimp (-18kg)
Tue - Nothing
Wed - Nothing
Thu - Upper body strength. Highlights - Pullups (1 @+22kg), Max hangs open hand (+4kg), half crimp (-16kg)
Fri - Bouldering @Depot. Blue/Black/Red pyramid
Sat - Trail Run @ Kinder (14km/600m)
Sun - A couple of routes at Stanage. Walked up to under The Unconquerables ready to have a go at my first 555 goal then it started to rain. Psyched out, climbed Fern Crack (VS 5a) and soloed Wall End Slab (VS 5a), which I was sure I'd done before but apparently not.
STG
Next week's goals -
* 2 Upper body strength sessions/Fingerboard
* 2 Core sessions
* 2 trail runs, or 1 long one at the weekend.
* 1 Lower body strength session
* 1 Lower body Strength Endurance session (hill climbs of some description)
* 3 leads at HVS or above
* 1 bouldering session.
MTG
OMM End October
Red Rocks in November
British Trad Routes:
The File (VS 4c)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
The Sloth (HVS 5a)
The HVSs on Hen Cloud
The Unconquerables
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
The Embankment routes at Millstone
Bouldering
Banana Finger (f6A)
Technical Master (f6B)
Crescent Arête (f5+)
LTG
The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Left Wall (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Vector (E2 5c)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) Solo (Spring 2018)
Scottish Winter 2017/18
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Dalriada (E7 6b)
Something on El Capitan.
In reply to Tyler:
Similar thoughts to myself. Got on the 7b+ tonight and got it in two halves and some overlapping bits as well. Putting it together is going to be good training and i'm hoping won't take too long - but i'm an optimist.
New set on the right hand side today. Proper BUK style problems. Tiny holds, feet by your head and positions that you can get into but not out of. Brilliant.
> I think I've sacked off the lilac 7A on account of being unable to do at least two of the moves. I can do the moves on the 7b+ but it's pretty intense.
Similar thoughts to myself. Got on the 7b+ tonight and got it in two halves and some overlapping bits as well. Putting it together is going to be good training and i'm hoping won't take too long - but i'm an optimist.
New set on the right hand side today. Proper BUK style problems. Tiny holds, feet by your head and positions that you can get into but not out of. Brilliant.
In reply to guy127917:
One of these beauties:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/eastway-emitter-r4-tiagra-2017-road-bike/
Amazing price for a carbon. Nearest competitor I could find was a Decathlon carbon one for £800 that had rubbish wheels. 3 kgs lighter than my old bike and rides like a dream. I was significantly quicker and less tired at the end. Win win!
> Whats the new bike?
One of these beauties:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/eastway-emitter-r4-tiagra-2017-road-bike/
Amazing price for a carbon. Nearest competitor I could find was a Decathlon carbon one for £800 that had rubbish wheels. 3 kgs lighter than my old bike and rides like a dream. I was significantly quicker and less tired at the end. Win win!
In reply to biscuit:
Looks great, amazing spec for the money- I was looking through the wiggle sale this morning, there are some good deals to be had!
Looks great, amazing spec for the money- I was looking through the wiggle sale this morning, there are some good deals to be had!
In reply to guy127917:
So...... Still injured, flying to kalymnos tomorrow. Not climbed in 1.5 weeks but it is defo on the mend. Just haven't climbed as didn't want to risk it. Been able to fully move it but lost all pinch strengh. Struggled to pick up a brick 3 days ago. Not gonna be much use tufa wrestling for 2 weeks! This all said it's much better yesterday and today so do at least think I can climb. Will redo my goals ready for next week based on how I get on in kalymnos.
Not all is lost, not climbing has given me 10 days working on my van. Made good progress. Electrics all done, fitted heated seats ready for winter (can be turned on from my phone from anywhere in the world, haha), carpeted and floored and an LPG tank installed. So it now a fair bit nicer inside
Still gonna go all out to flash 7c next week. If nothing else it'll be good fall practice .
So...... Still injured, flying to kalymnos tomorrow. Not climbed in 1.5 weeks but it is defo on the mend. Just haven't climbed as didn't want to risk it. Been able to fully move it but lost all pinch strengh. Struggled to pick up a brick 3 days ago. Not gonna be much use tufa wrestling for 2 weeks! This all said it's much better yesterday and today so do at least think I can climb. Will redo my goals ready for next week based on how I get on in kalymnos.
Not all is lost, not climbing has given me 10 days working on my van. Made good progress. Electrics all done, fitted heated seats ready for winter (can be turned on from my phone from anywhere in the world, haha), carpeted and floored and an LPG tank installed. So it now a fair bit nicer inside
Still gonna go all out to flash 7c next week. If nothing else it'll be good fall practice .
2
In reply to guy127917:
I've not much to compare it with as I've only had one 'proper' road bike before it. That's got carbon forks and seat stays and was a huge trade up from a Specialised Allez I was borrowing to see if I liked road biking. This feels like a similar step up again and for not much more than I bought the other one for 3 yrs ago. My other is also Tiagra which although it's not top of the range has never let me down and has done everything I need it to. This years Tiagra is miles better. I'm well happy with it.
I've not much to compare it with as I've only had one 'proper' road bike before it. That's got carbon forks and seat stays and was a huge trade up from a Specialised Allez I was borrowing to see if I liked road biking. This feels like a similar step up again and for not much more than I bought the other one for 3 yrs ago. My other is also Tiagra which although it's not top of the range has never let me down and has done everything I need it to. This years Tiagra is miles better. I'm well happy with it.
In reply to snoop6060:
Go steady, don't break yourself for no good reason!
That said, if the injury is feeling ok, do you have a particular 7c in mind?
If it's any use, my first and only 7c flash was Padroni e Pagliacci (7c) which is pretty soft and maybe even onsightable, the hard part is low down so you can see it from the ground. I basically onsighted the top half because the wind was so strong I couldn't hear any beta by then.
My other suggestion would be Sirene (7c), unfortunately the crux is right near the top but if you have someone to work out the beta for you then it is definitely do-able as the rest of the route is steady.
I'd tell you my beta if I could remember it but my memory isn't that good (it was only last month!)
If the injury doesn't improve, just have fun on the easier stuff, don't let it ruin your holiday, you can always go back.
Go steady, don't break yourself for no good reason!
That said, if the injury is feeling ok, do you have a particular 7c in mind?
If it's any use, my first and only 7c flash was Padroni e Pagliacci (7c) which is pretty soft and maybe even onsightable, the hard part is low down so you can see it from the ground. I basically onsighted the top half because the wind was so strong I couldn't hear any beta by then.
My other suggestion would be Sirene (7c), unfortunately the crux is right near the top but if you have someone to work out the beta for you then it is definitely do-able as the rest of the route is steady.
I'd tell you my beta if I could remember it but my memory isn't that good (it was only last month!)
If the injury doesn't improve, just have fun on the easier stuff, don't let it ruin your holiday, you can always go back.
In reply to Dandan:
I have no routes in mind, I'm just gonna try any of them. My plan is climb fast and take risks (not safety risks) and if I fall then so be it, try another route in much the same vein. Will pick ones with people's clips in to speed this up . Onsight/flash attempt then move on to another route. Basically an numbers game, try loads, climb without hesitation and lady luck might grant me my wish.
I have no routes in mind, I'm just gonna try any of them. My plan is climb fast and take risks (not safety risks) and if I fall then so be it, try another route in much the same vein. Will pick ones with people's clips in to speed this up . Onsight/flash attempt then move on to another route. Basically an numbers game, try loads, climb without hesitation and lady luck might grant me my wish.
In reply to snoop6060:
I'm with Dandan on recommending Padroni e Pagliacci (7c) - steady away with a little bit of pocket strength
Polifemo (7c) was also fine with some "modern" technique - gimp it up!
Priapos (7c) - so many rests - some quite bouldery moves on the steep section though
Aegialis (7c) - much more sustained than Priapos, but with a good rest if you're strong in the knee
Carnivore (7c) - softest of the lot... (AJM - one for you too?)
The Call of the Ktulu (7b+) - used to get 7c, but has rightly been downgraded
I'm with Dandan on recommending Padroni e Pagliacci (7c) - steady away with a little bit of pocket strength
Polifemo (7c) was also fine with some "modern" technique - gimp it up!
Priapos (7c) - so many rests - some quite bouldery moves on the steep section though
Aegialis (7c) - much more sustained than Priapos, but with a good rest if you're strong in the knee
Carnivore (7c) - softest of the lot... (AJM - one for you too?)
The Call of the Ktulu (7b+) - used to get 7c, but has rightly been downgraded
In reply to Ally Smith:
Priapos comes into the sun around midday, and you don't want to be climbing it in the sun!
Priapos comes into the sun around midday, and you don't want to be climbing it in the sun!
In reply to guy127917:
The problem with last weekend's long route with bivvy was that I was feeling kind of ill on the drive up, and though I felt mostly ok during the climbing as soon as I descended into the valley I got it all back with interest. Spent all last week laid up with the plague (also doing the rounds at work). Bouldered a little bit sunday afternoon.
The problem with last weekend's long route with bivvy was that I was feeling kind of ill on the drive up, and though I felt mostly ok during the climbing as soon as I descended into the valley I got it all back with interest. Spent all last week laid up with the plague (also doing the rounds at work). Bouldered a little bit sunday afternoon.
In reply to Just Tintin:
Tried this today. The sit start is ok but the supposedly 7A upper wall from a stand feels desperate. Have you been on it? I don't know whether my sequence is naff or it's just really hard.
I'm assuming all the left side pulls and ledge to the left are out, since that'd be like finishing up the 6A+.
> Glad to hear you feel that about The Universal (f7A) - have worked it on and off for quite a bit and not getting very far. Would be interested to see what you think of Gravity Grave (f7B) if you head there again
Tried this today. The sit start is ok but the supposedly 7A upper wall from a stand feels desperate. Have you been on it? I don't know whether my sequence is naff or it's just really hard.
I'm assuming all the left side pulls and ledge to the left are out, since that'd be like finishing up the 6A+.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers, will try em all except aegalis. I can't knee bar for shit. Will do it one day but I get pumped just looking up at it and then there's the queue...
Cheers for recommendations anyway chaps. I'll post back in high spirits next week having fallen off them all the chains! Wrist is feeling fine today. Been on the grip master all day getting some pinch strengh back.
Cheers, will try em all except aegalis. I can't knee bar for shit. Will do it one day but I get pumped just looking up at it and then there's the queue...
Cheers for recommendations anyway chaps. I'll post back in high spirits next week having fallen off them all the chains! Wrist is feeling fine today. Been on the grip master all day getting some pinch strengh back.
In reply to AJM:
Whilst I'm at it - on-sightable 7b's:
Armata Sikati (7b) - not sure if it was this one you tried before in Sikati cave?
Lulu in the Sky (7b)
Omiros (7b)
Lucky Strike (7b)
Whilst I'm at it - on-sightable 7b's:
Armata Sikati (7b) - not sure if it was this one you tried before in Sikati cave?
Lulu in the Sky (7b)
Omiros (7b)
Lucky Strike (7b)
Post edited at 17:20
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers ally. Yes I binned it off Armata trying to get onto the ledge with the chains on it. Epic fun route, jugs ahoy. Don't think I've tried the others, cheers.
Cheers ally. Yes I binned it off Armata trying to get onto the ledge with the chains on it. Epic fun route, jugs ahoy. Don't think I've tried the others, cheers.
In reply to Si dH:
Yep, agreed! I was pretty pleased with myself getting through sit start but then absolutely shut down if I don't cheat left on the sidepull crimp.
Thanks for suggesting the other 7As - will have a look next time I'm down. Just got fixated on the pocket on the 7B!
Yep, agreed! I was pretty pleased with myself getting through sit start but then absolutely shut down if I don't cheat left on the sidepull crimp.
Thanks for suggesting the other 7As - will have a look next time I'm down. Just got fixated on the pocket on the 7B!
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. Apologies for AWOL. Bit frantic at the moment as mum is back in treatment and lots of events at work so all of my extra curricular climbing commitments are proving tough to juggle! Plus have had lurgy again. Hope to get back on the goals asap.
M - coaching then lead routes to 7A
T - rest
W - core
T - routes
F - lurgy
S - routes to 7A+, work
S - Peak wet curbar feeling shocking but enjoyed Ringworm (f5+) between sniffy coughing bouts
Thanks Guy. Apologies for AWOL. Bit frantic at the moment as mum is back in treatment and lots of events at work so all of my extra curricular climbing commitments are proving tough to juggle! Plus have had lurgy again. Hope to get back on the goals asap.
M - coaching then lead routes to 7A
T - rest
W - core
T - routes
F - lurgy
S - routes to 7A+, work
S - Peak wet curbar feeling shocking but enjoyed Ringworm (f5+) between sniffy coughing bouts
In reply to guy127917:
Yeah, the 9 in a day didn't go well.
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st
M - F - Nowt
S - Routes at the Wall and 45 pull ups (50kgs off)
S - Rest
Think 555 might be a bit of a reach to be honest. Don't really trust my home fingerboard any more and I'm not getting down the wall much (where there is a pull-up machine). The pushups are a bit more possible.
Yeah, the 9 in a day didn't go well.
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st
M - F - Nowt
S - Routes at the Wall and 45 pull ups (50kgs off)
S - Rest
Think 555 might be a bit of a reach to be honest. Don't really trust my home fingerboard any more and I'm not getting down the wall much (where there is a pull-up machine). The pushups are a bit more possible.
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