UKC

Tom Ripley lists the best Diff ('Difficult') /V Diff ('Very Difficult')* -graded trad routes in the UK...

The phrase - 'the Diff to end all Diffs' - originates from Tom Patey and Chris Bonington's first ascent of the Cioch Nose on Sgurr a' Chaorachain. Patey - a great solo climber - was too intimidated to head into the unknown on Sgurr a' Chaorachain without a partner, so he enlisted Chris Bonington to hold his ropes. The pair were much amused to find the climbing much easier than expected, proclaiming afterward that it was the 'Diff to end all Diffs'. 

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Nice article but no Agags groove?

Lots of great routes there but hardly any actual Diffs🙂

My suggestions would be:

Black Slab (Bosigran). Overlapping Rib Route (Tryfan). Giant's Crawl and C Buttress (Dow). Crystal Ridge (Coire Sputan Dearg). Tower Ridge (Nevis). East Buttress (Coire Mhic Fhearchair). Red Slab (A' Mhaighdean). Pinnacle Ridge (Gillean) and the Clach Glas-Blaven traverse.

Throw in Corvus on Raven Crag Borrowdale for good measure! 

Is it just me that finds it irritating, but the correct name is "Bosigran Ridge"... First climbed in 1902.

Just to throw in another non-diff: the lovely Dubh Slabs. The actual best easy mountain route in the UK?

And how about Howling Ridge (Summer) (VD) (which I thought was more like diff)

edit - I see Tom said UK. Well they use the same grading system.

No Quiver Rib???

One of best VDiffs I've ever done was Main Wall Route on Gimmer. Two perfect pitches with varied climbing, enough gear to keep a beginner (or mental rehab patient (me)) happy and enough exposure from the off to excite. Not many people seem to know about it yet it's almost the first route you come to if approaching from the ODG.

Lovely to see FM get an honourable mention, I doubt it’ll ever see half the traffic of the others, but so very worth getting on it. 

It's only one pitch, but King's Chimney (VD) fit's the bill of a fine diff which is now no longer a diff.

I remember leading Heaven Crack and just enjoying it so much and being so focussed, I put no runners in and my second shouting up to me 

Oi put some gear in" 

But it just so much better without all that faff.  That was end (I think) of my leading climbing 'career' i prefer to solo these type of routes now

I just noticed your comment after adding mine. I agree, Quiver Rib is just stunning for a Diff. 

But please can we have an actual Diff? One that is actually still a Diff? 

Better yet, send me some good ones so noone else can see them. Pretty sure I am queen of the (actual) Diff!!

The first time I did Heaven Crack I was so taken with it I did it again straight afterwards. Still my favourite gritstone route

Its a lovely single pitch but 'm frankly amazed it's now a VDiff. There were plenty of old serious or safe Diff sandbags on Skye but this was never one of them.

In contrast Median at its new grade of VD is an amazing example of an comparative grade disparity, albeit possibly the best route I've ever done that was graded Diff at the time. A massive undertaking, technically lots harder and way more serious.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/sron_na_ciche-780/median-49659

The second pitch was my first ever lead, so it holds a special place in my heart!

Well there is https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/rhoscolyn-617/symphony_crack-6832#...

and again 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/tryfan-491/grooved_arete-29169#vid...

New West Climb (VD) on Pillar is equal to the very best on the list.

Maybe, but to leave out Rappel Wall (VD) is a travesty.

No longer vdiff either

Did part of this fall off and make it harder?

C Ordinary is just a Diff, rather than a VDiff. The Rockfax upgrade is mistaken... Almost, but not quite, as bad as the FRCC Duddon guide upgrading the really steady, easy VDiff Trinity Slabs to Severe!

Best VDiffs in the Lakes should include:

Bowfell Buttress (HS 4b) Yes, it's a bit stiff for VDiff... but, it's a great day out.

Slingsby's Chimney Route (VD) A fun and unlikely mountaineering route through impressive terrain!

New West Climb (VD) A big mountaineering day out that is worth a bivi under the stars, in summer.

Needle Ridge (VD) Classic.

Trinity Slabs (VD) Really pleasant, in the full sense of the word, and a great introductory route for newbies.

and Little Chamonix. Because it's funky, with good moves at the grade.

I'm not sure why Slingsby's isn't more frequented: except the short chimney, it's low in the grade, with varied terrain, traversing through amazing rock architecture to a fantastic traverse from Low Man to High Man. At the VDiff grade, I'm not sure any route in Cumbria takes in such excellent terrain.

I think that the best VDiff in Wales may, controversially, be Direct Route (HVD) on the Milestone... Although it's right by the road and, if you're unlucky, you'll have to queue... the climbing is just so damn characterful for the grade! You have a thin slab, a steep crack, an offwidth, an exposed traverse, "the chasm"/"bivalve" step... and a glorious little chimney finish. Brilliant!

President's Slab (VD) is gritstone perfection at the grade

Edit: apparently V Diff now too 🙄 Well, the start is tricky but is avoidable on the right. So probably Diff if you step in from the right

Lovely to see an article driven by the joy of climbing/scrambling and being outdoors in grand settings rather than cutting edge tech grade. Not saying this is better or worse, just that it restores the balance.

Thanks.. enjoyed  reading it

Had a quick look but that start most definitely doesn't look Diff! Though aware that Yorkshire grit is a different breed...

Heaven Crack? You've got to be kidding.

Surely Spiral Stairs (VD) has to be there for sheer position/exposure?

Did that in the rain in my Doc Martens, good fun.

This https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/eastby_crag-543/eastby_buttress-31... was always one my favourites.

It's so good I soloed it 6 times on my first visit to Stanage. Pleased to see Squareface on the list, it's nearly as good as Heaven Crack

Tricky because as already pointed out, so many have been upgraded.

Best routes that I thought were Diffs:

Corvus

Amphitheatre Buttress

Cromlech Flying Buttress 

Symphony Crack, Rhoscolyn 

Right Route at the Roaches

Zig Zag Climb Kinder Downfall 

Black Slab Bosigran

Quiver Rib

Central Buttress on Sron a Ciche South Wall

..for starters anyway...

Nothing on Sron na Ciche?

The only time I went there my client dislocated his shoulder (reoccurring dislocation) and we ran away. 
 

Arrow route looks mint. 

It’s so good I once did it with no clothes on…

Thirded, or possibly fourthed.  Outrageous second pitch for the grade.

T.

That or Cioch Nose (VD) in combination with Wallwork's Route (VD) on the Upper Buttress. A pity Cioch West (S 4a) on the lower buttress has been upgraded or it would be the obvious start.

But the V Diff to end all V Diffs is Median (VD) on the west buttress. Brilliant day out and arguably about AD+ and not for the inexperienced. I used one point of aid and nearly backed off just above.

Is Wallwark's any good? It looks like a shambles from below; not that that's much of an indicator...

I've only ever soloed down it a few times in my teens between routes on the Upper Buttress. Certainly a great position for the grade, but can't remember much about it! 

Re King's Chimney, it's possible. I remember hauling up on chockstones when I did it (solo, so they must've been reliable). So I guess they could've come out, though I suspect it's grade creep.

No Pencoed Pillar (HVD). Another fine outing.

Thank you! Middlefell is surely on there for ease of access to and from the pub... (And being my first multi). I'll have to think what my personal ones are, come to think about it.

I wasn't exactly overawed by it. It was wet so that might have tainted my view but it's not top 5 in the country, I'm sure of that!

Wallworks or Median? I'm sure Wallworks on its own isn't top five, but I was thinking of part of a combination up the whole buttress.

Same here. Soloed it then went went back around and soloed it again. Lovely stuff!

Ah, Wallwork's (not done Median). Wallwork's is maybe the best way to take arrow route/cioch nose to the top at an easy grade, but it's certainly a notch or two off the best routes around - although given the position you're in up high above the coire, it could climb terribly and still be an alright route! It's still very worthwhile.

I soloed Median one gorgeous evening and thought the middle bit quite something for Diff (which was its grade then). I remember there being two obvious lines and not being sure that I was on the right one until I'd done it. Definitely harder than Wallwork's.

A few years later I watched a pair spend 2 hours on that middle section, climbing round in a huge circle, up one option and down the other, to end up back in the same place 3 pitches later😁. I never found out if they finished it or gave up as I had to leave and take my group to the distillery.

A long time ago, perhaps 1974 when I climbed it. Median https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/sron_na_ciche-780/median-49659#pho...

I recall it being quite damp and lost on a alpine scale face wondering where to go. But it went OK.

Outside Edge Route (VD). surely worth a mention? 

Yes, definitely. A good shout. Very high quality in a lovely position/setting. Nice exposure at the top.

Reportedly still some loose stuff around after a major rockfall in 2020, and possibly not quite as enjoyable as it was previously.

That’s a pity. Let’s hope it consolidates soon, or rather sheds any stuff that is still loose.

Alison Rib (D) is an actual Dif, though I think the top pitch is worth VD personally. It's a lovely climb up a great line by the sea.

For the life of me i can't think why C Ordinary isn't still a Diff.  That and Black Slab at Bosi were always my favourites. 

C Ordinary is definite Diff, isn't it? If it's not Diff, then I have no idea what is. C Ordinary followed by Giant's Crawl is what Diff is all about.

It has lost a flake on P6 which makes it harder, apparently. See description and beta notes here: 'C' Ordinary Route (Summer) (VD)

Hmm, just had a look at my log - don't think I've ever done it twice in one day but...

• First time was in 1977
• Then a 10 year gap - wonder why - actually I think it was because I was still "improving" so plenty of other climbs to do and other places to go
• From 1987 to 2022 I've done it 35 times which averages pretty much once a year - but it was never a yearly ritual - I suspect it's my most repeated route
• Been over 19 months since I've done it - going to have to do something about this

I think I've only ever soloed it, and it's been great every time. My only regret is that it's not 3 times longer - can you imagine how mega that would be.

Yeh... I think you're right that this is part of the rationale. But, I've climbed it 3 times since it lost the flake, and it's still a diff, with the section through the rock fall being negligibly harder than the rest, e.g. comparable to the crack on the top section of Giant's Crawl or the main difficulties of the first pitch of Cneifion Arete or the short, steep corner/chimney on the Clogwyn y Person Arete...

Anyway, I guess it doesn't really matter.

Absolutely the New West. It was only a Diff when I climbed it...

And it was me that upgraded Cioch Nose from 'Diff to end all Diffs' to 'Hard V Diff' in 1969 SMC Guidebook. It now seems to hover between Hard V Diff and Mild Severe.

Bowfell Buttress, the crux pitch has got longer because that used to be a grassy terrace at the bottom of it.