As the media hypes up this week's heatwave - AKA 'British Summer' - this rare dosage of heat, sun and dry rock will inevitably see many of us poring over guidebooks and frantically ringing our mates. Although preferable to climbing in the rain, wind and cold, sunny climes can be equally as uncomfortable and potentially risky, if exposure to heat and sun becomes excessive.
There exist, however, some handy crags which face north or are relatively shaded from sunlight, so we've come up with a list of our 14 favourite crags from around the UK to help you make the most of this week of
Remember: Stay hydrated, avoid the midday sun and take plenty of suncream, long-sleeved clothing and a hat to avoid sunburn and heatstroke! There's nothing worse than being the lobster of the crag the following day, other than having to stay at home due to heatstroke!
South of England
High Rocks - A predominantly north-facing crag which provides 12m high sandstone top-roping and bouldering. Ideal for a family day out in fair weather. For a 3 star route check out the popular Infidel 6a.
Pentire Point - Ok, so it's only got a handful of routes...and they're all hard...but the sea cliff location is stunning and the rock truly immaculate. Best of the bunch include Eroica E2 6a/5b A1, Black Magic E5 6a and the amazing Darkinbad the Brightdayler E5 6a.
Carn Gowla - Same as the above, but looser and more adventurous. That said, the classic HVS Journey to Ixtlan is well worth seeking out if you're after a wild day, as is Rainbow Games E2, Mercury E2 and America E4.
Wimberry Rocks - High up, North-facing. Just as many classic VSs as there are E8s and some decent bouldering too!
Staden Main Quarry - A bit controversial as access is technically banned, but the BMC doesn't formally recognise the ban and has encouraged climbers to visit. It features some of the best quality limestone within the Peak District too, with the occasional tufa and 'stuck-on' conglomerate hold.
Chee Dale Lower - The word on the street is that the Cornice is dry/clean (all hard obviously too!)
Willersley Castle Rocks - Sport and trad climbing. Classics include Cucumber Groove, Garrotter (both VS 4c), Pothole Wall VS 4c,5a, Sycamore Flake VS 4c,4c, Lone Tree Groove HVS 5a,4b and Gangue Grooves HVS 5b. The route of the crag is Lime Street Direct (E1 5c difficult start only, 4c).
Scafell East Buttress - A high mountain crag which boasts some of the best routes in the Lake District. Super-classics include Mickledore Grooves VS, The Centaur HVS, The Yellow Slab HVS, Hell's Groove E1, The Lord of the Rings E2 and Ichabod E2.
Dow Crag - A bit of a walk in the heat and could be a bit touristy with The Old Man of Coniston nearby, but routes such as Giant's Crawl D and Murray's Direct VS 4c are well worth their stars. Go for a swim in Goat's Water afterwards to cool down!
Glyder Fach - Loads of easier classics with a good selection of middle grade routes in a mountain setting. The climbing here is mainly multi-pitch routes to 125 metres. Try Hawk's Nest Arête - a 3 star VS 4c.
Highlands of Scotland
Any crag in Scotland is inherently freezing, but beware of the locals going crazy with the appearance of a mysterious object in the sky...
Ben Nevis - The UK's highest mountain will inevitably be popular with climbers and walkers alike, but the classic Tower Ridge D and Centurion HVS would make for a fine day out in sunnier conditions. Pack your suncream!
Beinn Eighe - Another mountain crag whose situation and elevation will be handy in the heat, consisting of 300m high sandstone capped with quartzite cliffs. Hamilton's Route S 4a and Nisbet's Route VS 4c are not to miss.
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