This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Hello FitClubbers! Hope you all had a good week.
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=638479
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: vimeo.com/69045994 it's a long one but incredibly life affirming. Well worth 25 minutes of your time, even if just for the immortal line "It's 7 o'clock in the morning and I'm naked in Kyrgyzstan!"
Si dH: congrats on the sends! Manage to get out this week or did weather interfere?
humptydumpty: solid volume, good effort. Might be worth thinking about posting a more detailed overview of what you did each day for your own reference in the future?
hms: that sounds pretty decent given the hectic work week!
Ian Bell: how's the training plan going?
Ally Smith: eventful day at Malham - hope the skin rehab is going well!
biscuit: haha the comp sounds like mayhem! Effort on the 7a+ onsight, good job!
stevemarkperry: did you get the 7A boulder? What do you do for mobility drills?
Emily: some good climbing volume, nice one. I bet the legs are breathing a sigh of relief haha. More running this week?
Dandan82: sounds like a quality holiday, congrats on the 9/10 7s, great effort!
Robin Brooke: super jealous of the van exodus. What's the planned route?
TonyB: sounds like a productive trip. I certainly know the siren song of the patisserie...
Nick Russell: nice one, good luck with the 10k training then! What's the timescale on your STGs?
AJM: no biggie, everyone has off weeks. Did you get the benchmarking done?
mattrm: how did the goal ticking go? That must be one savage fence you're putting up!
James Moyle: manage to get out despite the ming weather?
planetmarshall: how was the surgery? I've thought about it myself so would be interested to hear your experiences. What's your opinion on its compatibility with high altitude?
hokkyokusei: condolences on the shin splints. I've been there many a time but I never knew it could affect much more experienced runners like yourself. Did the physio shed any light on the cause?
Curious Yellow: hope snot levels are on the decline!
JayK: congrats on the route. Manage to get outside this week at all?
Tyler: glad the climbing/family dynamic worked okay! I can definitely relate to your Sunday entry... gnarly.
0.5viking: good stuff, elbow feeling any better? By the way, have you been to Lofoten? planning a trip this summer and after some beta.
Just Tintin: sneaky! The cast doesn't seem to be holding you back too much. How did it go with the skiing?
I'm going to be out in the Alps for the next two weekends so looking for someone to take over the FC reigns for a while. Any takers?
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=638479
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: vimeo.com/69045994 it's a long one but incredibly life affirming. Well worth 25 minutes of your time, even if just for the immortal line "It's 7 o'clock in the morning and I'm naked in Kyrgyzstan!"
Si dH: congrats on the sends! Manage to get out this week or did weather interfere?
humptydumpty: solid volume, good effort. Might be worth thinking about posting a more detailed overview of what you did each day for your own reference in the future?
hms: that sounds pretty decent given the hectic work week!
Ian Bell: how's the training plan going?
Ally Smith: eventful day at Malham - hope the skin rehab is going well!
biscuit: haha the comp sounds like mayhem! Effort on the 7a+ onsight, good job!
stevemarkperry: did you get the 7A boulder? What do you do for mobility drills?
Emily: some good climbing volume, nice one. I bet the legs are breathing a sigh of relief haha. More running this week?
Dandan82: sounds like a quality holiday, congrats on the 9/10 7s, great effort!
Robin Brooke: super jealous of the van exodus. What's the planned route?
TonyB: sounds like a productive trip. I certainly know the siren song of the patisserie...
Nick Russell: nice one, good luck with the 10k training then! What's the timescale on your STGs?
AJM: no biggie, everyone has off weeks. Did you get the benchmarking done?
mattrm: how did the goal ticking go? That must be one savage fence you're putting up!
James Moyle: manage to get out despite the ming weather?
planetmarshall: how was the surgery? I've thought about it myself so would be interested to hear your experiences. What's your opinion on its compatibility with high altitude?
hokkyokusei: condolences on the shin splints. I've been there many a time but I never knew it could affect much more experienced runners like yourself. Did the physio shed any light on the cause?
Curious Yellow: hope snot levels are on the decline!
JayK: congrats on the route. Manage to get outside this week at all?
Tyler: glad the climbing/family dynamic worked okay! I can definitely relate to your Sunday entry... gnarly.
0.5viking: good stuff, elbow feeling any better? By the way, have you been to Lofoten? planning a trip this summer and after some beta.
Just Tintin: sneaky! The cast doesn't seem to be holding you back too much. How did it go with the skiing?
I'm going to be out in the Alps for the next two weekends so looking for someone to take over the FC reigns for a while. Any takers?
1
In reply to alexm198:
I train BJJ (Brazilian Jiu Jitsu) which basically involves a lot of rolling around on the floor. As part of this we do quite a bit of mobility work. Look up a guy named Steve Maxwell. He has stacks of videos on YouTube but here's one which covers most of what I like to do:
youtube.com/watch?v=K8jH4wzH1rU&
Being quite sport-specific has downsides, so I've learned, so crossing over into other sports or even just doing some basic mobility work really works wonders – keeps me supple and helps prevent injury.
> stevemarkperry: ... What do you do for mobility drills?
I train BJJ (Brazilian Jiu Jitsu) which basically involves a lot of rolling around on the floor. As part of this we do quite a bit of mobility work. Look up a guy named Steve Maxwell. He has stacks of videos on YouTube but here's one which covers most of what I like to do:
youtube.com/watch?v=K8jH4wzH1rU&
Being quite sport-specific has downsides, so I've learned, so crossing over into other sports or even just doing some basic mobility work really works wonders – keeps me supple and helps prevent injury.
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks for doing the stats. It's not the fencing that's been the main issue, it's knocking down two walls and then rebuilding part of one that's been the issue. That and moving about a skipful of rocks down the garden to the driveway. Which has to be good exercise right?
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
SMART Goals:
1 core session - tick!
1 climb - oops....
Weight - 12st 11lbs
M - S - Misc fencing and stuff
S - 2 hours moving large rocks + core session
Next week:
1 core session
1 climb
I suspect that I'll spend quite a bit of the week down the tip to be honest. Lots of rocks and rubble to dispose of. But apart from removal of rubble the fencing is finished. So I really ought to at least get down the wall this week.
Thanks for doing the stats. It's not the fencing that's been the main issue, it's knocking down two walls and then rebuilding part of one that's been the issue. That and moving about a skipful of rocks down the garden to the driveway. Which has to be good exercise right?
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
SMART Goals:
1 core session - tick!
1 climb - oops....
Weight - 12st 11lbs
M - S - Misc fencing and stuff
S - 2 hours moving large rocks + core session
Next week:
1 core session
1 climb
I suspect that I'll spend quite a bit of the week down the tip to be honest. Lots of rocks and rubble to dispose of. But apart from removal of rubble the fencing is finished. So I really ought to at least get down the wall this week.
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks for doing the stats Alex. I'm happy to do them next weekend. I can't do the bank holiday though as I should be camping and am not sufficiently savvy with mobile technology.
This week has been pretty relaxed for me. I originally planned to jump back into training, but one of my elbows felt pretty sore after Font, so I listened to my body and took it fairly easy.
Mon - bouldering, hard circuits long rests (not the greatest session)
Tue - rest
Wed - bouldering, long rests medium intensity
Thurs - routes at Awesome Walls
Fri/Sat/Sun rest
The Awesome Walls session was pretty informative. I hadn't climbed indoors on a rope this year and wasn't too good. It made me realize that whilst going round the same boulder circuits was making me fit, I do need to spend time on a rope to maintain a good head and lead form. The good news is that this seems to return pretty quickly. I think I'm fine now, so should get back to training.
The discussion last week was interesting for me. I also am aware of the fact that I don't spend enough time on rock. I think I will introduce a new aim to spend 4 days on rock per month. It isn't much but it's all I can manage. My main goal for this week is simply to get back into the training regime and get out on rock next weekend.
Thanks for doing the stats Alex. I'm happy to do them next weekend. I can't do the bank holiday though as I should be camping and am not sufficiently savvy with mobile technology.
This week has been pretty relaxed for me. I originally planned to jump back into training, but one of my elbows felt pretty sore after Font, so I listened to my body and took it fairly easy.
Mon - bouldering, hard circuits long rests (not the greatest session)
Tue - rest
Wed - bouldering, long rests medium intensity
Thurs - routes at Awesome Walls
Fri/Sat/Sun rest
The Awesome Walls session was pretty informative. I hadn't climbed indoors on a rope this year and wasn't too good. It made me realize that whilst going round the same boulder circuits was making me fit, I do need to spend time on a rope to maintain a good head and lead form. The good news is that this seems to return pretty quickly. I think I'm fine now, so should get back to training.
The discussion last week was interesting for me. I also am aware of the fact that I don't spend enough time on rock. I think I will introduce a new aim to spend 4 days on rock per month. It isn't much but it's all I can manage. My main goal for this week is simply to get back into the training regime and get out on rock next weekend.
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks Alex. Yep I got out twice again this week. Just got to be flexible and have some projects that stay dry in a shower. We all moan about the British weather but the Peak is a great area really for nearly always being able to get something done
(and even better once the lime dries...)
STGs (next 1-2 months):
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Wright's Traverse (f7B)
- moffatrocity (f7B+)
- Do a selection of other Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs as time permits
MTGs (next 3-6 months):
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- Arch Enemies (7c+)
- More Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs and hopefully Ft7B+s
LTG (6-12 months):
- F8a
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)
M: shoulder rehab work.
T: 3rd session on the Unicorn after work. I'm sure this is super hard for 7B. However I felt my strongest yet on the crux and actually managed to hit the hold for the first time - not quite fully in it and came out with suitable loss of skin - but shows I can do it, and hence the problem. Also had a couple of quick goes on Spellbound (7A+). Got 2/3 of the way up, think I'd have done it with another 30 minutes of light, but ran out of time.
W: did some core work in the morning.
T: Fingerboard session doing repeaters. Same as previous two weeks but a bit stronger this time which was good. I only failed on the very last rep of the last set on back 3.
F: rest
S: rest
S: Churnet trying Wright's traverse. Much better this time than a few weeks ago. I actually managed to do the crux without my feet coming off a couple of times, which shows I was much stronger on it (not sure why) and got all the way through from the start to giving the crux a good go. Best attempt I got my right hand on the hold but my left hand let go at the crucial moment and I fell on my ass. If I do the crux from the start I think I'll finish it off. It's definitely'on' now anyway.
Also did a few other short bits of shoulder rehab work. I've been feeling it a bit more than usual this week, I think the volume of hard climbing last Sunday hit it pretty hard. Need to watch it. Although I'm reading make or break at the moment - lots of interesting stuff - and it seems the odd bit of pain may not be a bad thing as long as it's not excessive...
So overall, good thing is I've been feeling strong when climbing the last 8 days, bad thing is no ticks this week.
Weight last Sunday night was 11st 1.5lb.
Si
Thanks Alex. Yep I got out twice again this week. Just got to be flexible and have some projects that stay dry in a shower. We all moan about the British weather but the Peak is a great area really for nearly always being able to get something done
(and even better once the lime dries...)
STGs (next 1-2 months):
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Wright's Traverse (f7B)
- moffatrocity (f7B+)
- Do a selection of other Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs as time permits
MTGs (next 3-6 months):
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- Arch Enemies (7c+)
- More Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs and hopefully Ft7B+s
LTG (6-12 months):
- F8a
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)
M: shoulder rehab work.
T: 3rd session on the Unicorn after work. I'm sure this is super hard for 7B. However I felt my strongest yet on the crux and actually managed to hit the hold for the first time - not quite fully in it and came out with suitable loss of skin - but shows I can do it, and hence the problem. Also had a couple of quick goes on Spellbound (7A+). Got 2/3 of the way up, think I'd have done it with another 30 minutes of light, but ran out of time.
W: did some core work in the morning.
T: Fingerboard session doing repeaters. Same as previous two weeks but a bit stronger this time which was good. I only failed on the very last rep of the last set on back 3.
F: rest
S: rest
S: Churnet trying Wright's traverse. Much better this time than a few weeks ago. I actually managed to do the crux without my feet coming off a couple of times, which shows I was much stronger on it (not sure why) and got all the way through from the start to giving the crux a good go. Best attempt I got my right hand on the hold but my left hand let go at the crucial moment and I fell on my ass. If I do the crux from the start I think I'll finish it off. It's definitely'on' now anyway.
Also did a few other short bits of shoulder rehab work. I've been feeling it a bit more than usual this week, I think the volume of hard climbing last Sunday hit it pretty hard. Need to watch it. Although I'm reading make or break at the moment - lots of interesting stuff - and it seems the odd bit of pain may not be a bad thing as long as it's not excessive...
So overall, good thing is I've been feeling strong when climbing the last 8 days, bad thing is no ticks this week.
Weight last Sunday night was 11st 1.5lb.
Si
In reply to alexm198:
I made a start - I did the 4 finger open (ish, I think this is the infamous "chisel" grip), need to do a forced half crimp and a 3 finger drag.
For those who care about numbers, I was at 6.7kg assistance on a 19mm edge - an upside down campus rung backed with plywood. That was hanging face on. I could get another half kilo off on my right arm if I allowed myself any shoulder position. In practice that was about 2/3rds of the way to a chin up position. Weight at time of test was 73.9 so a bit over 90% bodyweight held. I could make a decent argument that at peak weight I could take a bit off the weight and therefore the assistance, putting it into a ~91-92% sort of range.
Anyway, the rest of my week, I did 2 back to back after work rides, about 50km/600m each. Good go get the legs used to multiple days on, although they were kind of sore! Need to maintain and build on this level of hard work over the next few weeks.
I also spent the weekend on Cider Soak with hms. Days 2&3 and its going relatively well.
Saturday it was wet at the top so mainly worked the lower section. Got the bottom boulder problem sorted and repeatable. Had a couple of burns and could tickle the sika crimp each time from the ground. Had a bit of a micro beta session later in the day and got the sequence to the sika crimp more sorted - its not really about hitting it, its about hitting it solidly enough to do the difficult unwind off it.
Sunday skin was thin bit the top wall was finally dry enough, so I put a bit of focus into that. The sequence from the "rest jugs" relies on a small Gaston crimp which was a bit slimy and caused at least one ping, but that did boost confidence that the heel-toe wouldn't stay stuck - I was a bit nervous about that. I linked the sequence to the top once from the jugs and again from a move in (the heel toe was aggravating my left leg). I also had my best go from the ground yet getting the sika crimp solid and half way into the unwind.
So, its in 3, the middle link is only a few moves, which makes overlapping halves feel plausible. However, for such a sustained beastie, I suspect there's a way to go from there!
For those who care and want to make sense of my gibberish, the route breaks down as follows:
- Easy womble to get feet on a ledge and both hands on holds on the steep wall (weight on hands at this point). I'm counting moves from here.
- 5 move boulder problem to a decent incut
- the 4th move from here is a big reach through to a sika-ed crimp
- there's then a hard unwind (here my first link ends) to a sidepull and some foot shuffling on these 2 allows a clip
- 4 more moves sees you matched on good holds with poor feet in a steep position. These are the "rest jugs". My second link goes from the crimp, through the unwind, to either these or a move beyond these.
- from the jugs to the chains is 8 moves, of which the first two are hardest - a pull to a small horrible Gaston and a press off this and a high heel-toe to get a sidepull crimp/crozzle. This is my third link.
- so 1-9, 9-14, 14-22. 22 moves!!! There's one clip I've not made logically on sequence yet which is at about move 11. It's fine but strenuous.
- I'm not sure on grades. I'm terrible at boulder grades. I'm pretty sure 1-5 I've done easier V5s although I've probably also failed on harder V4s. 5-10 is harder, 10-14 fairly steady for my height although the cumulative effort of 5-14 is definitely harder than say Lost Decade or most other things I've done given the grade so I wouldn't feel bad about quoting V6. Top is maybe V4 but I'll be wiped by then, got to dig in deep for the first few moves and then just hang on in there. Consensus seems to be however it breaks down it adds up to hard 8a. Ally, JKay, how far out am I?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=195559 - this, incidentally, is the most ridiculous way to make the clip I've ever seen, but on the other hand if you imagine his left hand were reaching straight up to the chalked hold above his right hand instead of clipping (the higher one, level with the bolt end crabs) that gives you some idea of the move to the sika crimp and therefore an idea of how the unwind looks.
So that was my week. Plan for this week is more midweek cycling, maybe mkx it up and try the MTB, and hopefully trad this weekend coming to start off on the road to (hopefully) E5...
> AJM: no biggie, everyone has off weeks. Did you get the benchmarking done?
I made a start - I did the 4 finger open (ish, I think this is the infamous "chisel" grip), need to do a forced half crimp and a 3 finger drag.
For those who care about numbers, I was at 6.7kg assistance on a 19mm edge - an upside down campus rung backed with plywood. That was hanging face on. I could get another half kilo off on my right arm if I allowed myself any shoulder position. In practice that was about 2/3rds of the way to a chin up position. Weight at time of test was 73.9 so a bit over 90% bodyweight held. I could make a decent argument that at peak weight I could take a bit off the weight and therefore the assistance, putting it into a ~91-92% sort of range.
Anyway, the rest of my week, I did 2 back to back after work rides, about 50km/600m each. Good go get the legs used to multiple days on, although they were kind of sore! Need to maintain and build on this level of hard work over the next few weeks.
I also spent the weekend on Cider Soak with hms. Days 2&3 and its going relatively well.
Saturday it was wet at the top so mainly worked the lower section. Got the bottom boulder problem sorted and repeatable. Had a couple of burns and could tickle the sika crimp each time from the ground. Had a bit of a micro beta session later in the day and got the sequence to the sika crimp more sorted - its not really about hitting it, its about hitting it solidly enough to do the difficult unwind off it.
Sunday skin was thin bit the top wall was finally dry enough, so I put a bit of focus into that. The sequence from the "rest jugs" relies on a small Gaston crimp which was a bit slimy and caused at least one ping, but that did boost confidence that the heel-toe wouldn't stay stuck - I was a bit nervous about that. I linked the sequence to the top once from the jugs and again from a move in (the heel toe was aggravating my left leg). I also had my best go from the ground yet getting the sika crimp solid and half way into the unwind.
So, its in 3, the middle link is only a few moves, which makes overlapping halves feel plausible. However, for such a sustained beastie, I suspect there's a way to go from there!
For those who care and want to make sense of my gibberish, the route breaks down as follows:
- Easy womble to get feet on a ledge and both hands on holds on the steep wall (weight on hands at this point). I'm counting moves from here.
- 5 move boulder problem to a decent incut
- the 4th move from here is a big reach through to a sika-ed crimp
- there's then a hard unwind (here my first link ends) to a sidepull and some foot shuffling on these 2 allows a clip
- 4 more moves sees you matched on good holds with poor feet in a steep position. These are the "rest jugs". My second link goes from the crimp, through the unwind, to either these or a move beyond these.
- from the jugs to the chains is 8 moves, of which the first two are hardest - a pull to a small horrible Gaston and a press off this and a high heel-toe to get a sidepull crimp/crozzle. This is my third link.
- so 1-9, 9-14, 14-22. 22 moves!!! There's one clip I've not made logically on sequence yet which is at about move 11. It's fine but strenuous.
- I'm not sure on grades. I'm terrible at boulder grades. I'm pretty sure 1-5 I've done easier V5s although I've probably also failed on harder V4s. 5-10 is harder, 10-14 fairly steady for my height although the cumulative effort of 5-14 is definitely harder than say Lost Decade or most other things I've done given the grade so I wouldn't feel bad about quoting V6. Top is maybe V4 but I'll be wiped by then, got to dig in deep for the first few moves and then just hang on in there. Consensus seems to be however it breaks down it adds up to hard 8a. Ally, JKay, how far out am I?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=195559 - this, incidentally, is the most ridiculous way to make the clip I've ever seen, but on the other hand if you imagine his left hand were reaching straight up to the chalked hold above his right hand instead of clipping (the higher one, level with the bolt end crabs) that gives you some idea of the move to the sika crimp and therefore an idea of how the unwind looks.
So that was my week. Plan for this week is more midweek cycling, maybe mkx it up and try the MTB, and hopefully trad this weekend coming to start off on the road to (hopefully) E5...
Post edited at 20:33
3
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks Alex
Still trying to shake off a sore throat and cough. Nearly there...
Monday - Wednesday - partially ill so no exercise
Thursday - RUN - a slow wheezy walk-jog. 4km
Friday - CLIMB - Bouldering at Redpoint
Saturday and Sunday - DIY - Like Mattrm, I've been moving rather a lot of rubble this weekend (removal of patio and lowering ground level to install a deck). Wouldn't usually include DIY but my body is broken!
Thanks Alex
Still trying to shake off a sore throat and cough. Nearly there...
Monday - Wednesday - partially ill so no exercise
Thursday - RUN - a slow wheezy walk-jog. 4km
Friday - CLIMB - Bouldering at Redpoint
Saturday and Sunday - DIY - Like Mattrm, I've been moving rather a lot of rubble this weekend (removal of patio and lowering ground level to install a deck). Wouldn't usually include DIY but my body is broken!
In reply to alexm198:
Done lots this weekend but not sure how much value it was, I'm struggling with skin pain.
M: Depot, messed around on problems
T: Depot AeroCap (or is it AnCap?) 4x10 mins
W: Yoga followed by 3x 15mins A***Cap
T: Skin too sore for AeroCap so messed around on problems. Thought I'd better do something structured so did on the minute dead hangs. I've no idea what these are doing but as someone commented 'it's bound to be hitting one of the energy systems!'
F:Rest
S: Arrived late at Malham, no time for warmup so got straight on MO and went bolt to bolt. Had two more goes, first go managed undercut to top and second go ground to two crimps after undercut and then yelled take. I was powered out but should have tried an extra half move, really poor. So now done in two halves but not on same go, still it's miles off as the move after the undercut is the hardest on the route and I can only just do it off the rope so doing it 17 moves in is a different league.
S: Went to Depot, skin pretty sore so did some problems then thought about getting structured. Tried doing one arm lower offs on the minute but realised I wasn't even slowing down the descent so tried pull ups instead only to fail to manage a second set of ten. Are there any other 8a aspirants as chronically weak as me? Finally did dead hangs in the minute x10. Would be really interested to hear from others whether this is a worthwhile exercise, I was doing about 10 sec hangs which felt quite hard but on my last rep decided to hang on as long as poss and managed 23 secs so was nowhere near to my max.
Done lots this weekend but not sure how much value it was, I'm struggling with skin pain.
M: Depot, messed around on problems
T: Depot AeroCap (or is it AnCap?) 4x10 mins
W: Yoga followed by 3x 15mins A***Cap
T: Skin too sore for AeroCap so messed around on problems. Thought I'd better do something structured so did on the minute dead hangs. I've no idea what these are doing but as someone commented 'it's bound to be hitting one of the energy systems!'
F:Rest
S: Arrived late at Malham, no time for warmup so got straight on MO and went bolt to bolt. Had two more goes, first go managed undercut to top and second go ground to two crimps after undercut and then yelled take. I was powered out but should have tried an extra half move, really poor. So now done in two halves but not on same go, still it's miles off as the move after the undercut is the hardest on the route and I can only just do it off the rope so doing it 17 moves in is a different league.
S: Went to Depot, skin pretty sore so did some problems then thought about getting structured. Tried doing one arm lower offs on the minute but realised I wasn't even slowing down the descent so tried pull ups instead only to fail to manage a second set of ten. Are there any other 8a aspirants as chronically weak as me? Finally did dead hangs in the minute x10. Would be really interested to hear from others whether this is a worthwhile exercise, I was doing about 10 sec hangs which felt quite hard but on my last rep decided to hang on as long as poss and managed 23 secs so was nowhere near to my max.
Post edited at 23:16
STGs (next 2 weeks):
* run*, boulder, yoga* every weekday (* or equivalent)
* get out on the rock every weekend
* don't get injured, drink alcohol or smoke anything
MTGs (end of June):
* finish Clockwork Orange, a 50-move problem at the local wall. I guess it's 6b, cos I can do all the moves
* tick 50% of http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1390
* learn how to fall off sport climbs
LTGs (end of 2016)
* redpoint F7a
* tick 20 routes on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1391
* climb Punsola-Reniu (aid allowed!)
Knees feeling dodgy, so cut down on the running this week. Joined a climbing gym to mix up the climbing and get access to yoga & other classes.
M: yoga, cycle (1 hr to the gym & back), climb at the gym (inc 3 6b onsight; one 6b+ 2nd go)
T: yoga, run, climb (worked back 20 of clockwork orange, but no link yet)
W: cycle, tai chi, climb at the gym (all 5's & 6a's in the gym; 1 6b onsight); knee injury?
T: cycle, pilates, climb at the gym (one 6b onsight; 2 6c's after multiple attempts); climbers' elbow? knee injury?!
F: cycle to the wall, linked first 45 moves of Clockwork Orange - so close, but the last 8 moves are ALL tough; yoga
S: got out for some sport, and found a great sector with very soft grades. onsighted two 6a+ (one slabby & delicate, one juggy and overhanging; both very soft), and got close to confident on a 6b+ (bizarrely named 'Excite Woman'). Would be great to go back and get on the lead before it gets downgraded!
S: onsighted a 6a+ (slabby, delicate & brief), and then got spanked by a 6a (steep, long and technical)! Maybe starting to work out what suits me?
Very pleased with the weekend's sport climbing - felt much stronger than I was expecting, especially given how much I got done in the week, tried a couple of climbs outside of likely onsight territory, and even had a proper fall on one of them.
* run*, boulder, yoga* every weekday (* or equivalent)
* get out on the rock every weekend
* don't get injured, drink alcohol or smoke anything
MTGs (end of June):
* finish Clockwork Orange, a 50-move problem at the local wall. I guess it's 6b, cos I can do all the moves
* tick 50% of http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1390
* learn how to fall off sport climbs
LTGs (end of 2016)
* redpoint F7a
* tick 20 routes on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1391
* climb Punsola-Reniu (aid allowed!)
Knees feeling dodgy, so cut down on the running this week. Joined a climbing gym to mix up the climbing and get access to yoga & other classes.
M: yoga, cycle (1 hr to the gym & back), climb at the gym (inc 3 6b onsight; one 6b+ 2nd go)
T: yoga, run, climb (worked back 20 of clockwork orange, but no link yet)
W: cycle, tai chi, climb at the gym (all 5's & 6a's in the gym; 1 6b onsight); knee injury?
T: cycle, pilates, climb at the gym (one 6b onsight; 2 6c's after multiple attempts); climbers' elbow? knee injury?!
F: cycle to the wall, linked first 45 moves of Clockwork Orange - so close, but the last 8 moves are ALL tough; yoga
S: got out for some sport, and found a great sector with very soft grades. onsighted two 6a+ (one slabby & delicate, one juggy and overhanging; both very soft), and got close to confident on a 6b+ (bizarrely named 'Excite Woman'). Would be great to go back and get on the lead before it gets downgraded!
S: onsighted a 6a+ (slabby, delicate & brief), and then got spanked by a 6a (steep, long and technical)! Maybe starting to work out what suits me?
Very pleased with the weekend's sport climbing - felt much stronger than I was expecting, especially given how much I got done in the week, tried a couple of climbs outside of likely onsight territory, and even had a proper fall on one of them.
In reply to Tyler:
Yes, me!
I can't lock off on either arm and struggle to do 1 set of ten pull ups. Haven't fingerboard, other than the usual 1week of effort then leave it for months, for about 3 years. Never tried lowering but I reckon it wouldn't be much good, unless it's my Unknown superpower. I tried to do a core workout this week. It said I should be aiming for 5 sets of each exercise. I managed two to three if I was lucky.
Maybe we've just got really good technique?
Have you done the depot league problems? Just checking out the competition in the vets category
Yes, me!
I can't lock off on either arm and struggle to do 1 set of ten pull ups. Haven't fingerboard, other than the usual 1week of effort then leave it for months, for about 3 years. Never tried lowering but I reckon it wouldn't be much good, unless it's my Unknown superpower. I tried to do a core workout this week. It said I should be aiming for 5 sets of each exercise. I managed two to three if I was lucky.
Maybe we've just got really good technique?
Have you done the depot league problems? Just checking out the competition in the vets category
In reply to biscuit:
> Maybe we've just got really good technique?
I think it's more likely we've no hope of getting up 8a any time soon> Have you done the depot league problems? Just checking out the competition in the vets category
I'm pretty certain the competition is fierce but won't come from me, I've looked at them, I don't think I've done any in the 20s but not sure.In reply to alexm198:
I tried the 7a a few times but it involves a bicycle move with my left foot which puts a lot of pressure on a recent injury so I just can't commit to the move as I think it might re-injure it, so I'm sacking it off and focusing on the other goals. A good week this week and Saturday evening's bouldering session was fantastic. It makes all the difference climbing with mates egging you on to do stuff.
Mon: Rest & mobility drills
Tue: 10 miles MTB, mix of road and trail. Hill sprints and skills. Smiles.
Wed: Pushups / rest
Thu: Indoor bouldering. Ticked some more from the second row of my pyramid although they were all in the cave (my strong point). There are also some more downstairs that I want to do (two reds). Climbed really well tonight and really chuffed that I ticked an orange V3 that I tried last time. Got it tonight in a few attempts by literally 'trying harder'. Also climbed well on go-ey moves, little to no hesitation. No closer on the yellow fr7a/+. I think this might be too hard at the moment as my crux move irritates a recent foot injury.
Fri: Rest
Sat: Fantastic session at the wall. Ticked another two V3–4s (one that I was trying on Thurs) and both were quit go-ey. I didn't seem to bother and just went for the moves anyway. I love it when I climb like this as it's so rare for me. Well happy! Finished the 2nd row of my pyramid too. Cruising.
Sun: Pushups, mobility drills, rest
On-going weekly/daily:
Mobility drills: daily 2/7
Antagonists: weekly 2x 2/2
Climbing: weekly 3x 2/3
Weight: maintain 140-142 lbs (current: 143.0) +
STGs (End June 2016):
Complete next XC race of season (May 8)
Purple fr6c in cave
Yellow fr7a/+ in cave -- going to remove this as it involves a move that is irritating a recent foot injury.
Too Drunk (f7A)
Complete second row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V3/4) 4/4 TICK!
MTGs (before end 2016):
Sleeping with the Flowers (f7A)
Ousal Low (f7A+)
Ride The Beast at Coed y Brenin (just need to sort a date with mates)
I tried the 7a a few times but it involves a bicycle move with my left foot which puts a lot of pressure on a recent injury so I just can't commit to the move as I think it might re-injure it, so I'm sacking it off and focusing on the other goals. A good week this week and Saturday evening's bouldering session was fantastic. It makes all the difference climbing with mates egging you on to do stuff.
Mon: Rest & mobility drills
Tue: 10 miles MTB, mix of road and trail. Hill sprints and skills. Smiles.
Wed: Pushups / rest
Thu: Indoor bouldering. Ticked some more from the second row of my pyramid although they were all in the cave (my strong point). There are also some more downstairs that I want to do (two reds). Climbed really well tonight and really chuffed that I ticked an orange V3 that I tried last time. Got it tonight in a few attempts by literally 'trying harder'. Also climbed well on go-ey moves, little to no hesitation. No closer on the yellow fr7a/+. I think this might be too hard at the moment as my crux move irritates a recent foot injury.
Fri: Rest
Sat: Fantastic session at the wall. Ticked another two V3–4s (one that I was trying on Thurs) and both were quit go-ey. I didn't seem to bother and just went for the moves anyway. I love it when I climb like this as it's so rare for me. Well happy! Finished the 2nd row of my pyramid too. Cruising.
Sun: Pushups, mobility drills, rest
On-going weekly/daily:
Mobility drills: daily 2/7
Antagonists: weekly 2x 2/2
Climbing: weekly 3x 2/3
Weight: maintain 140-142 lbs (current: 143.0) +
STGs (End June 2016):
Complete next XC race of season (May 8)
Purple fr6c in cave
Yellow fr7a/+ in cave -- going to remove this as it involves a move that is irritating a recent foot injury.
Too Drunk (f7A)
Complete second row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V3/4) 4/4 TICK!
MTGs (before end 2016):
Sleeping with the Flowers (f7A)
Ousal Low (f7A+)
Ride The Beast at Coed y Brenin (just need to sort a date with mates)
In reply to AJM:
I've realised by the way that it was actually 7.1 staying front on going down to 6.7 with the free shoulder position, not 6.7 falling to 6.2. 6.2 was my final attempt and a definite fail.
Figuresfail. Good job I don't do numbers for a living, right.....
I've realised by the way that it was actually 7.1 staying front on going down to 6.7 with the free shoulder position, not 6.7 falling to 6.2. 6.2 was my final attempt and a definite fail.
Figuresfail. Good job I don't do numbers for a living, right.....
In reply to Tyler:
You have met me, right?!! If it jogs your memory - try to picture an Anglepoise lamp made of broom-handles, falling down the stairs!
Seriously, I don't think I can do 1-arm hangs off an edge. I certainly can't do lock-offs / lower offs, even from a bar. I feel like I am notably weaker than everyone I know who climbs similar stuff at Malham - poor at anything involving proper "beef" like plastic bouldering (I manage the odd purple at the Leeds Depot but, unless it's an anomalously easy setting, not many - and a yellow would be postcards to the family territory).
I would not get too disheartened by Saturday - it's early season and frankly you just might have been tired - 4th day-on in 6 days?! Try saving yourself for the outdoor action. By the way - which route is "MO" - Main Overhang?
> Are there any other 8a aspirants as chronically weak as me?
You have met me, right?!! If it jogs your memory - try to picture an Anglepoise lamp made of broom-handles, falling down the stairs!
Seriously, I don't think I can do 1-arm hangs off an edge. I certainly can't do lock-offs / lower offs, even from a bar. I feel like I am notably weaker than everyone I know who climbs similar stuff at Malham - poor at anything involving proper "beef" like plastic bouldering (I manage the odd purple at the Leeds Depot but, unless it's an anomalously easy setting, not many - and a yellow would be postcards to the family territory).
I would not get too disheartened by Saturday - it's early season and frankly you just might have been tired - 4th day-on in 6 days?! Try saving yourself for the outdoor action. By the way - which route is "MO" - Main Overhang?
1
In reply to alexm198:
Cheers Alex, I was really pleased with that, it was an incredible holiday, made even better by the lack of injuries.
A good week after the holiday, I was determined to get back into the swing of things as a week of rest did me no good at all last April.
M: Easy fingerboard and chin up session, just testing the waters.
T: Indoor routes; Got back on a hard 7a that I did before Margalef, it was a real fight to the top before, this week it was a walk, very encouraging. 15 or so routes up to 7b.
W: Bodyweight antagonists; I had an epiphany regarding handstands! I had been keeping my neck straight, looking straight ahead and having real trouble keeping in balance. I started looking down to the floor and immediately knocked out 2 x 10 second handstands! That little change really helps to feel the balance.
I've also been using some top yoga tips from a friend to stretch my hamstrings, and have miraculously gone from just touching my toes to being able to curl my fingers round my toes! Very good progress.
T: Indoor bouldering; Tried to be restrained, flashed a lot of v2-5 but did get tempted by a steep v6 which went in 2 goes. Also did 1-5-9 benchmark, managed a comfortable 1-4-6 both sides, also very nearly did 1-5-7 both sides.
F: Bit of light DIY
S: Indoor routes at Calshot; They've re-clad their old 'comp' wall with ply panels instead of feature panels, thankfully some of the setting is actually ok, still almost all stiff for the grades but some interesting routes. I only climbed up to 6c+, elbows felt a little tired, I made the cardinal error of doing DIY and climbing in the same day, it was only a bit of filling but I guess the wrist motion wasn't appreciated.
S: Bit of bodyweight antagonists, did another 2 10 second handstands, one of which was more like 15 seconds! Did 2RM chin up benchmark, used the decent outside edge slots on the BM2000, I managed +45kg or 165% bodyweight, I don't think my strength is stopping me hitting 8a...
Also booked a return to Margalef for October, 7 whole nights! Excited already.
Last weeks STG:
climb 3 times - TICK 2 routes 1 boulder
1 easy fingerboard session - TICK, all feels good
Keep stretching, check progress of toe-touching - TICK can now hold toes!
5x10 second free handstands - 4x10, quite pleased with that
New STG: (this week)
climb 3 times - at least 1 Aerocap
1 easy fingerboard session
5x10 second free handstands
Set lap problem in bouldershed
MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - see below
Decide if I'm ready for a proper training plan
Get outside a couple of times
Lap indoor 7a 4 times
Buy moon holds for moonboard - TICK
LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Margalef in October
Tick Bésame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October
Lap indoor 7b 4 times
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds
BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...
Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
*Assisted one arm hang - 10 seconds on BM2000 bottom middle slot?
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie (not hugely scientific as grades can be subjective)
*Max reps on medium hard boulder problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between
> Dandan82: sounds like a quality holiday, congrats on the 9/10 7s, great effort!
Cheers Alex, I was really pleased with that, it was an incredible holiday, made even better by the lack of injuries.
A good week after the holiday, I was determined to get back into the swing of things as a week of rest did me no good at all last April.
M: Easy fingerboard and chin up session, just testing the waters.
T: Indoor routes; Got back on a hard 7a that I did before Margalef, it was a real fight to the top before, this week it was a walk, very encouraging. 15 or so routes up to 7b.
W: Bodyweight antagonists; I had an epiphany regarding handstands! I had been keeping my neck straight, looking straight ahead and having real trouble keeping in balance. I started looking down to the floor and immediately knocked out 2 x 10 second handstands! That little change really helps to feel the balance.
I've also been using some top yoga tips from a friend to stretch my hamstrings, and have miraculously gone from just touching my toes to being able to curl my fingers round my toes! Very good progress.
T: Indoor bouldering; Tried to be restrained, flashed a lot of v2-5 but did get tempted by a steep v6 which went in 2 goes. Also did 1-5-9 benchmark, managed a comfortable 1-4-6 both sides, also very nearly did 1-5-7 both sides.
F: Bit of light DIY
S: Indoor routes at Calshot; They've re-clad their old 'comp' wall with ply panels instead of feature panels, thankfully some of the setting is actually ok, still almost all stiff for the grades but some interesting routes. I only climbed up to 6c+, elbows felt a little tired, I made the cardinal error of doing DIY and climbing in the same day, it was only a bit of filling but I guess the wrist motion wasn't appreciated.
S: Bit of bodyweight antagonists, did another 2 10 second handstands, one of which was more like 15 seconds! Did 2RM chin up benchmark, used the decent outside edge slots on the BM2000, I managed +45kg or 165% bodyweight, I don't think my strength is stopping me hitting 8a...
Also booked a return to Margalef for October, 7 whole nights! Excited already.
Last weeks STG:
climb 3 times - TICK 2 routes 1 boulder
1 easy fingerboard session - TICK, all feels good
Keep stretching, check progress of toe-touching - TICK can now hold toes!
5x10 second free handstands - 4x10, quite pleased with that
New STG: (this week)
climb 3 times - at least 1 Aerocap
1 easy fingerboard session
5x10 second free handstands
Set lap problem in bouldershed
MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - see below
Decide if I'm ready for a proper training plan
Get outside a couple of times
Lap indoor 7a 4 times
Buy moon holds for moonboard - TICK
LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Margalef in October
Tick Bésame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October
Lap indoor 7b 4 times
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds
BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...
Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
*Assisted one arm hang - 10 seconds on BM2000 bottom middle slot?
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie (not hugely scientific as grades can be subjective)
*Max reps on medium hard boulder problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks for the stats Alex. Training is going OK, managed to complete everything this week and get outside even if I am feeling a bit battered this morning. Motivated to continue the training but also got to not get too carried away and have a day off if the body is demanding it. Managed to sort out the admin of buying new car / selling old car at the weekend so good that is now out the way.
STG = keep up training but also be sensible enough to skip a day if body demands.
MTG = keep up the training plan
LTG = 7b+ pyramid this year, at least 3x7a+, 2x7b,1x7b+. Done plenty of 7as over the last few years.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Mon - 2 sets of TRX esque exercises. 1 set = 11 different exercises, 6 reps of each. About 50:50 between ones mostly working shoulders and ones working core. 30 mins ish of max weight dead hangs on fingerboard.
Tues - 3x20 boulder problems in a row. Average of V1.7. 15 mins solid on autobelay at 6a ish.
Weds - 1.5hrs strength and conditioning (press ups, sit ups, weights etc)
Thurs - 1.5hrs ish bouldering. Worked a few V5s all of which felt impossible but did manage at least 1 move on each that originally felt impossible so happy. 15 mins solid on autobelay at 6a ish.
Fri - well earned rest
Sat - 3 sets of the TRX exercises. c30 mins (incl rests) of fingerboard repeaters (7secs on, 3 off, 6 reps per grip).
Sun - lovely day at a sunny Brean. Repeated the 6a+, 6b+, 6c, 6c+ (falls on the last 2). Retroflash of Chepito (7a) (did it c18 months ago) and then got Pearl Harbour (7a), first go today although have tried it in the past. Happy with that, not sure I've done 2 7a in a day before.
Thanks for the stats Alex. Training is going OK, managed to complete everything this week and get outside even if I am feeling a bit battered this morning. Motivated to continue the training but also got to not get too carried away and have a day off if the body is demanding it. Managed to sort out the admin of buying new car / selling old car at the weekend so good that is now out the way.
STG = keep up training but also be sensible enough to skip a day if body demands.
MTG = keep up the training plan
LTG = 7b+ pyramid this year, at least 3x7a+, 2x7b,1x7b+. Done plenty of 7as over the last few years.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Mon - 2 sets of TRX esque exercises. 1 set = 11 different exercises, 6 reps of each. About 50:50 between ones mostly working shoulders and ones working core. 30 mins ish of max weight dead hangs on fingerboard.
Tues - 3x20 boulder problems in a row. Average of V1.7. 15 mins solid on autobelay at 6a ish.
Weds - 1.5hrs strength and conditioning (press ups, sit ups, weights etc)
Thurs - 1.5hrs ish bouldering. Worked a few V5s all of which felt impossible but did manage at least 1 move on each that originally felt impossible so happy. 15 mins solid on autobelay at 6a ish.
Fri - well earned rest
Sat - 3 sets of the TRX exercises. c30 mins (incl rests) of fingerboard repeaters (7secs on, 3 off, 6 reps per grip).
Sun - lovely day at a sunny Brean. Repeated the 6a+, 6b+, 6c, 6c+ (falls on the last 2). Retroflash of Chepito (7a) (did it c18 months ago) and then got Pearl Harbour (7a), first go today although have tried it in the past. Happy with that, not sure I've done 2 7a in a day before.
1
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
Cheers Luke, MO is Main Overhang, chosen because Toadal has a powerful static move I cannot do whereas the crux of MO involves snatching between poor holds which I can (on occasion). Most routes I've done up there I've thought would 'go' provided I do everything right whereas this feels easy to ping off so probably the 8a is justified.
I'm surprised you consider yourself weak, as I assume anyone who has bouldered to your level will have a certain amount of burl (far more than me). Having listened to Tom Randall podcast it seems the one arm hang off an edge is pretty advanced but I thought everyone (but me) could lock off on a bar at 90degrees.
I wasn't too disappointed by my performance on Saturday but every time I go to the Depot and see people who have been climbing about three months campusing my projects I'm faced with my own inadequacy, which is a bit harder to stomach!
Cheers Luke, MO is Main Overhang, chosen because Toadal has a powerful static move I cannot do whereas the crux of MO involves snatching between poor holds which I can (on occasion). Most routes I've done up there I've thought would 'go' provided I do everything right whereas this feels easy to ping off so probably the 8a is justified.
I'm surprised you consider yourself weak, as I assume anyone who has bouldered to your level will have a certain amount of burl (far more than me). Having listened to Tom Randall podcast it seems the one arm hang off an edge is pretty advanced but I thought everyone (but me) could lock off on a bar at 90degrees.
I wasn't too disappointed by my performance on Saturday but every time I go to the Depot and see people who have been climbing about three months campusing my projects I'm faced with my own inadequacy, which is a bit harder to stomach!
1
In reply to AJM:
MTB is dangerous, steer clear...
Cider Soak felt like hard 8a to me - definitely a power endurance route. My best efforts when i lived down in the SW were ground to the "break" not-a-rest-jugs and pinging off shortly there after. I don't think i've sufficient memory to quote you on boulder grade breakdown.
I'm making plans for a SW hit for 2 or more weekends in June. Cheddar, Shipwreck and possibly Pembroke are on the agenda. Anstey's might fit in too - i'll keep you and hms in the loop
MTB is dangerous, steer clear...
Cider Soak felt like hard 8a to me - definitely a power endurance route. My best efforts when i lived down in the SW were ground to the "break" not-a-rest-jugs and pinging off shortly there after. I don't think i've sufficient memory to quote you on boulder grade breakdown.
I'm making plans for a SW hit for 2 or more weekends in June. Cheddar, Shipwreck and possibly Pembroke are on the agenda. Anstey's might fit in too - i'll keep you and hms in the loop
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks for the stats Alex - skin recovery went well, but still climbing with enough tape to look like an extra from "The Mummy Returns"
Last/Next week’s goals:
Yoga class – tick – more this week
Cycle >40miles total – semi-fail ~30miles
Edit skiing video - fail
3x rehab sessions – 2x - repeat
1x an-cap - fingerboard, Depot or Cave? - fail
1x aero-cap - fingerboard, Depot or trad!?! - fail
2x mental rehearsal of project sequences – tick – repeat now sequence is optimised
April goals:
Continued shoulder rehab and core fitness – start yoga class with the lady - TICK
Rehab strange finger tweak – hurts closing car doors, but not crimping - Getting there
2x week an-cap work-outs (inc. crimping an-cap specific to Waterval Boven) - FAIL
LW reverse - TICK (and back again, or trohs efil evac?)
RP the easier Malham potential project - Progress – 1-hang
Investigate/bolt the harder projects at Malham & Kilnsey – FAIL
Week 16:
M - Gentle theraband and stretching.
T - Yoga class. L oblique still a grumbly.
W - 45km bike ride including some cobbled sections from the sportive in May
T - Depot. Lots of tape on fingers to protect slowly re-growing skin but left oblique just about okay. Entire red (V3-5) & black (V2-4) circuits, with a couple of the mauve (V5-7).
F - Rest/skin repair/theraband session. Boutique gin/beer bar and pasta gluttony
S - Malham. Regretted the booze as the project was dry and made good progress. 1-hanged it a couple of time – swapped clipping hands and super-extended 2nd draw so it doesn’t feel wiggy with heel hook in. 7b retro-flash warm-down.
S - Day with the lady and her friends at tatton. Felt tired out by 2&4 year olds, but totally aced the monkey bars…!
Thanks for the stats Alex - skin recovery went well, but still climbing with enough tape to look like an extra from "The Mummy Returns"
Last/Next week’s goals:
Yoga class – tick – more this week
Cycle >40miles total – semi-fail ~30miles
Edit skiing video - fail
3x rehab sessions – 2x - repeat
1x an-cap - fingerboard, Depot or Cave? - fail
1x aero-cap - fingerboard, Depot or trad!?! - fail
2x mental rehearsal of project sequences – tick – repeat now sequence is optimised
April goals:
Continued shoulder rehab and core fitness – start yoga class with the lady - TICK
Rehab strange finger tweak – hurts closing car doors, but not crimping - Getting there
2x week an-cap work-outs (inc. crimping an-cap specific to Waterval Boven) - FAIL
LW reverse - TICK (and back again, or trohs efil evac?)
RP the easier Malham potential project - Progress – 1-hang
Investigate/bolt the harder projects at Malham & Kilnsey – FAIL
Week 16:
M - Gentle theraband and stretching.
T - Yoga class. L oblique still a grumbly.
W - 45km bike ride including some cobbled sections from the sportive in May
T - Depot. Lots of tape on fingers to protect slowly re-growing skin but left oblique just about okay. Entire red (V3-5) & black (V2-4) circuits, with a couple of the mauve (V5-7).
F - Rest/skin repair/theraband session. Boutique gin/beer bar and pasta gluttony
S - Malham. Regretted the booze as the project was dry and made good progress. 1-hanged it a couple of time – swapped clipping hands and super-extended 2nd draw so it doesn’t feel wiggy with heel hook in. 7b retro-flash warm-down.
S - Day with the lady and her friends at tatton. Felt tired out by 2&4 year olds, but totally aced the monkey bars…!
In reply to Ally Smith:
I mean pottering along big tracks and along ridges and things, not your sort of mountain biking!
Yes, do. I've a lot of climbing planned for weekends in June, although I've one errant weekend that I need to decide whether to go to rodellar in...
I mean pottering along big tracks and along ridges and things, not your sort of mountain biking!
Yes, do. I've a lot of climbing planned for weekends in June, although I've one errant weekend that I need to decide whether to go to rodellar in...
In reply to alexm198:
thanks Alex. I had a busy week and pretty intense wkend. Will have to take it a bit easier this week I think as fingers are grumbling.
M - coaching session with Ben at Redpoint. Did a 7a I'd come off the week before. Had some really good goes at the 7b+ but still 1 move I can't do. Took a horrid fall onto an unprotected beam from a 7c - hopefully Redpoint have now padded it, cos I've got a massive bruise on my ankle to prove it needs it!
T - cycle commute. Fingerboard - 10 lots of 7/3/6/2 using pretty much all the holds except the v small crimps, then 8 lots of 10/3/4/3 using combinations of lower row holds. Weights - bicep curls and over head shoulder push-up thingies.
W - cycle commute. Too short UCR session due to guest being vague as to when they could deign to arrive. 12 routes in 3s. At home then did a shed load of pull-ups and knee-raises whilst fully locked off.
T - cycle commute. Cycle on to Bloc to try circuits. Weird set: 5+, 6a, 6a+, (v easy) 6b, then a leap up to mails hard 6c+, 7a+, 7b+, 7c. Seems to leave a yawning gulf in the middle of the sort of grade I want. Lots of numpties about too. Ended up doing 1min on:1min off FoC x 8 as the campus board was free from people who'd taken stupid pills.
F - rest.
S - Cider Soak. Some short links.
S - Cider Soak. Got on better on a coupe of the moves I'd struggled on the day before. 1 move near the bottom I am totally shut down on, plus the hard move from the rubbish gaston at the top.
I also have a major problem on CS that I have to lunge and stab for the pocket, which means I (hopefully) get it with my front two. But to move up from it one needs a really secure sidepull grip. I can't do it front 2 but can't swap to anything else.
Anyway, suspect it might be a while till I can have another play, so main thing is to write it down I guess.
thanks Alex. I had a busy week and pretty intense wkend. Will have to take it a bit easier this week I think as fingers are grumbling.
M - coaching session with Ben at Redpoint. Did a 7a I'd come off the week before. Had some really good goes at the 7b+ but still 1 move I can't do. Took a horrid fall onto an unprotected beam from a 7c - hopefully Redpoint have now padded it, cos I've got a massive bruise on my ankle to prove it needs it!
T - cycle commute. Fingerboard - 10 lots of 7/3/6/2 using pretty much all the holds except the v small crimps, then 8 lots of 10/3/4/3 using combinations of lower row holds. Weights - bicep curls and over head shoulder push-up thingies.
W - cycle commute. Too short UCR session due to guest being vague as to when they could deign to arrive. 12 routes in 3s. At home then did a shed load of pull-ups and knee-raises whilst fully locked off.
T - cycle commute. Cycle on to Bloc to try circuits. Weird set: 5+, 6a, 6a+, (v easy) 6b, then a leap up to mails hard 6c+, 7a+, 7b+, 7c. Seems to leave a yawning gulf in the middle of the sort of grade I want. Lots of numpties about too. Ended up doing 1min on:1min off FoC x 8 as the campus board was free from people who'd taken stupid pills.
F - rest.
S - Cider Soak. Some short links.
S - Cider Soak. Got on better on a coupe of the moves I'd struggled on the day before. 1 move near the bottom I am totally shut down on, plus the hard move from the rubbish gaston at the top.
I also have a major problem on CS that I have to lunge and stab for the pocket, which means I (hopefully) get it with my front two. But to move up from it one needs a really secure sidepull grip. I can't do it front 2 but can't swap to anything else.
Anyway, suspect it might be a while till I can have another play, so main thing is to write it down I guess.
1
In reply to hms:
Alex, incidentally, hits the pocket in the same way you were doing and does the move without readjusting. Require a rework of the moves above but a potential option...
Alex, incidentally, hits the pocket in the same way you were doing and does the move without readjusting. Require a rework of the moves above but a potential option...
In reply to alexm198:
Cheers Alex. I didn't realise you were short sighted. My sight hasn't quite stabilized yet but so far my experience has been extremely positive. Would definitely recommend it to anyone who does outdoor activities and wants to ditch the glasses ( and doesn't want to wear contacts ).
There are a few anecdotal reports of mountaineers having problems above about 6500m, but nothing conclusive ( see http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/?term=lasik+altitude ). For a counterexample, I believe Ken Applegate has had the procedure and been to that altitude with no problems. Bear in mind that if you are short sighted, if all goes well the procedure will give you 'normal' vision, that is you will probably end up needing reading glasses at some point - though typically not until your mid 40s.
Anyway, on with fitclub...
Pretty lousy week. No particular reason, just a general motivational low
Mon - Rest
Tue - ARC@ AW Stockport. 3x 20 minute laps in the tower.
Wed - Strength and Conditioning (Hypertrophy ).
Core warmup
3 sets (90s rest)
Turkish getup, wide chinup, hang squats, dips, walking lunge, pressup, leg raise
Thu - Rest
Fri - Strength and Conditioning (Supersets)
3 sets
Turkish Getup/Wide Chinup
Ring Dip/Inclined ring row
Hang Squat/Military Press
Sat - Rest
Sun - Climbing @ Froggatt Edge (Tody's Wall (HVS 5a))
STG
## Last weeks goals
Shoulder rehab. I think the turkish getup exercise is really helping with this - benchmark my one-handed axe hang to see what the status is.
Done. 30s on the right arm, 17s on the left. Left feels considerably weaker, but this is a big improvement over zero seconds
Strength and Conditioning. Keep at 3 sets, but move to a hypertrophy protocol which means a greater emphasis on fatiguing the muscles.
Done. Reduced the rest interval between sets to 90 secs, which had a major effect. Had to reduce the weight on almost all exercises. Also trying out a superset activity, from https://breakingmuscle.com/strength-conditioning/everything-you-need-to-kno...
Aerobic. 4 hours 40 minutes of Z1 plus 30 minutes Z2
Total fail. Must do better.
Do some climbing!
** ARC - try using features for feet only in the AW Stockport Tower. 2 sets of 20 minutes
Managed 3x20 minutes, but features only for feet was way too hard! Instead trying just make use of the features, rather than exclusively matching hands/feet.
** 4 routes at HVS
Only 1 route. (Tody's Wall (HVS 5a)). No excuse for not doing more.
** 1 6b and 1 6b+ if indoor
Indoor session at AW Stockport but only climbed up to 6a+
## Next week's goals
* Aerobic. 4h 40m Z1 ( inc 40m Z2 )
* Strength and Conditioning. Continue Hypertrophy protocol and move to 4 sets.
* Climbing
** 4 routes at easy-med HVS. Evenings are getting lighter now and I have a gritstone crag practically in my back garden so *surely* I can do this?
** 1 6b and 1 6b+ if indoor. Hopefully weather will be too good to do this.
** Bouldering. Either at the Depot or (preferably) outdoors somewhere.
MTG
Left shoulder rehab.
Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Cemetery Gates (E1 5b)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
LTG
Recovery of left shoulder injury.
Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly
Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)
Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics, and some hard mixed routes on Beinn Eighe
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The North Face (TD+ 6a)
Learn to ski.
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Something on El Capitan.
> planetmarshall: how was the surgery? I've thought about it myself so would be interested to hear your experiences. What's your opinion on its compatibility with high altitude?
Cheers Alex. I didn't realise you were short sighted. My sight hasn't quite stabilized yet but so far my experience has been extremely positive. Would definitely recommend it to anyone who does outdoor activities and wants to ditch the glasses ( and doesn't want to wear contacts ).
There are a few anecdotal reports of mountaineers having problems above about 6500m, but nothing conclusive ( see http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/?term=lasik+altitude ). For a counterexample, I believe Ken Applegate has had the procedure and been to that altitude with no problems. Bear in mind that if you are short sighted, if all goes well the procedure will give you 'normal' vision, that is you will probably end up needing reading glasses at some point - though typically not until your mid 40s.
Anyway, on with fitclub...
Pretty lousy week. No particular reason, just a general motivational low
Mon - Rest
Tue - ARC@ AW Stockport. 3x 20 minute laps in the tower.
Wed - Strength and Conditioning (Hypertrophy ).
Core warmup
3 sets (90s rest)
Turkish getup, wide chinup, hang squats, dips, walking lunge, pressup, leg raise
Thu - Rest
Fri - Strength and Conditioning (Supersets)
3 sets
Turkish Getup/Wide Chinup
Ring Dip/Inclined ring row
Hang Squat/Military Press
Sat - Rest
Sun - Climbing @ Froggatt Edge (Tody's Wall (HVS 5a))
STG
## Last weeks goals
Shoulder rehab. I think the turkish getup exercise is really helping with this - benchmark my one-handed axe hang to see what the status is.
Done. 30s on the right arm, 17s on the left. Left feels considerably weaker, but this is a big improvement over zero seconds
Strength and Conditioning. Keep at 3 sets, but move to a hypertrophy protocol which means a greater emphasis on fatiguing the muscles.
Done. Reduced the rest interval between sets to 90 secs, which had a major effect. Had to reduce the weight on almost all exercises. Also trying out a superset activity, from https://breakingmuscle.com/strength-conditioning/everything-you-need-to-kno...
Aerobic. 4 hours 40 minutes of Z1 plus 30 minutes Z2
Total fail. Must do better.
Do some climbing!
** ARC - try using features for feet only in the AW Stockport Tower. 2 sets of 20 minutes
Managed 3x20 minutes, but features only for feet was way too hard! Instead trying just make use of the features, rather than exclusively matching hands/feet.
** 4 routes at HVS
Only 1 route. (Tody's Wall (HVS 5a)). No excuse for not doing more.
** 1 6b and 1 6b+ if indoor
Indoor session at AW Stockport but only climbed up to 6a+
## Next week's goals
* Aerobic. 4h 40m Z1 ( inc 40m Z2 )
* Strength and Conditioning. Continue Hypertrophy protocol and move to 4 sets.
* Climbing
** 4 routes at easy-med HVS. Evenings are getting lighter now and I have a gritstone crag practically in my back garden so *surely* I can do this?
** 1 6b and 1 6b+ if indoor. Hopefully weather will be too good to do this.
** Bouldering. Either at the Depot or (preferably) outdoors somewhere.
MTG
Left shoulder rehab.
Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Cemetery Gates (E1 5b)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
LTG
Recovery of left shoulder injury.
Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly
Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)
Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics, and some hard mixed routes on Beinn Eighe
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The North Face (TD+ 6a)
Learn to ski.
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Something on El Capitan.
Post edited at 14:19
In reply to alexm198:
Cheers Alex. It was the minimum I was after but as it felt so steady away i'm happy enough.
Starting my next 3 mth cycle is proving tricky due to taking on some excellent job related work for the next couple of months. It leaves very little time for college work, which as to be a priority atm. We'll see what happens. Everytime I've whinged about this sort of stuff it's ended up being hard work, but manageable, so i'll just get super organised and do what I can.
Last week was poor really. 1 session at the Depot doing the comp problems. Could call it a rest week after the holiday but more to do with being too busy. Car finally died and hunting for a replacement took a lot of time. Finally got one - a camper van Very excited to have one again. Lots of adventures await.
Did OK at the depot. Got 199 points with a good few points to get if I get back to it this week before end of the round. I'm a vet now so be interesting to see how that works out.
This weeks goals:
2x fingerboard
1 x aerocap
1 x depot boulder
That'll do I think. If i'm feeling very disciplined I might pop in some trx and core stuff.
Cheers Alex. It was the minimum I was after but as it felt so steady away i'm happy enough.
Starting my next 3 mth cycle is proving tricky due to taking on some excellent job related work for the next couple of months. It leaves very little time for college work, which as to be a priority atm. We'll see what happens. Everytime I've whinged about this sort of stuff it's ended up being hard work, but manageable, so i'll just get super organised and do what I can.
Last week was poor really. 1 session at the Depot doing the comp problems. Could call it a rest week after the holiday but more to do with being too busy. Car finally died and hunting for a replacement took a lot of time. Finally got one - a camper van Very excited to have one again. Lots of adventures await.
Did OK at the depot. Got 199 points with a good few points to get if I get back to it this week before end of the round. I'm a vet now so be interesting to see how that works out.
This weeks goals:
2x fingerboard
1 x aerocap
1 x depot boulder
That'll do I think. If i'm feeling very disciplined I might pop in some trx and core stuff.
In reply to alexm198:
The physio reckoned that I'd upped my mileage too quickly. Also most of my running is off road, but there was a significant stretch of canal tow path in the "off road" half marathon I did, for which I was wearing off road shoes. So he had lots of suggestions, but nothing conculsive.
m - rest
t - physio
w - 10k cycling
t - sports massage
f - 10k cycling
s - 1.5k gentle run
s - 22.5k cycling
I had a very tentative run, and it trurns out that I'm pain free, but only if I'm very forward on my feet and that's not a style I'm practiced at. As soon as I started heel-striking the pain was right back.
On the plus side, I got my bike out and cycling is pain free, which good, because if I don't do something I'll start pileing the wight back on!
> Hello FitClubbers! Hope you all had a good week.
> hokkyokusei: condolences on the shin splints. I've been there many a time but I never knew it could affect much more experienced runners like yourself. Did the physio shed any light on the cause?
The physio reckoned that I'd upped my mileage too quickly. Also most of my running is off road, but there was a significant stretch of canal tow path in the "off road" half marathon I did, for which I was wearing off road shoes. So he had lots of suggestions, but nothing conculsive.
m - rest
t - physio
w - 10k cycling
t - sports massage
f - 10k cycling
s - 1.5k gentle run
s - 22.5k cycling
I had a very tentative run, and it trurns out that I'm pain free, but only if I'm very forward on my feet and that's not a style I'm practiced at. As soon as I started heel-striking the pain was right back.
On the plus side, I got my bike out and cycling is pain free, which good, because if I don't do something I'll start pileing the wight back on!
In reply to alexm198:
OK, before I go and waste another 10 mins of my life doing on the minute hangs at about 40% of my one rep max does anyone want to tell me if they are of any use and which energy system they might help with? Alternative suggestions for easily digestible exercises to improve arm and finger strength equally welcome (as are suggested tweaks).
PS. According to the front page I have three replies to my post but can only see 2 so if someone has already answered, and I've missed it, apologies.
OK, before I go and waste another 10 mins of my life doing on the minute hangs at about 40% of my one rep max does anyone want to tell me if they are of any use and which energy system they might help with? Alternative suggestions for easily digestible exercises to improve arm and finger strength equally welcome (as are suggested tweaks).
PS. According to the front page I have three replies to my post but can only see 2 so if someone has already answered, and I've missed it, apologies.
In reply to Tyler:
"anyone want to tell me if they are of any use"
I'd hazard a guess at not very much.
It's not anywhere near your max to be any use for Strength gains - and the rest times are huge, so won't be hitting any of the energy systems.
For finger strength - you could try doing max hangs, do them one handed and use a pulley to take off weight?
http://www.stevemaischtraining.com/fingerboarding-for-maximum-strength.html
"anyone want to tell me if they are of any use"
I'd hazard a guess at not very much.
It's not anywhere near your max to be any use for Strength gains - and the rest times are huge, so won't be hitting any of the energy systems.
For finger strength - you could try doing max hangs, do them one handed and use a pulley to take off weight?
http://www.stevemaischtraining.com/fingerboarding-for-maximum-strength.html
Post edited at 16:24
In reply to Tyler:
Do you mean 40%? So if you could do bw+10 on a hold you'd be doing hangs at under half of that - -30kg or something?
Have I missed something?
Do you mean 40%? So if you could do bw+10 on a hold you'd be doing hangs at under half of that - -30kg or something?
Have I missed something?
In reply to conorcussell:
I agree, I am no training guru (or even aficionado) from what I can gather, to gain max strength most efficiently, do relatively small numbers of hangs but with near as much added weight as you can.
Ms Lopez recommends starting off with 10s hangs off a 20-18mm edge with the amount of added weight you can hang at most for 13s - so your workout is at around 90-80% of capacity - to give a bit of margin to reduce injury risk. Rest well between hangs (3 mins) to ensure you can keep the added weight high throughout the workout.
She claims her research has found that you are best off using a larger edge with more added weight, than a smaller edge and less added weight - more muscle recruitment supposedly. Although, she recommends changing the hold size up or down every 4 weeks just to shake things up. Another way to alter the difficulty is to reduce the hang times from 10s, say, to 6s, using the amount of added weight you can hang at most for 8s.
An alternative regimen I have been trying lately (though not for a while - elbow tweaks and a desire to stay fresh and injury-free for Malham) was blogged by Mr Crusherholds, occasionally of this parish:
http://crusherholdsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/
It calculates the optimum load using a different method but seems to arrive at roughly the same added weight as the Lopez method. The routine seems to be a half-way house between "Lopez" max hangs and the normal "repeaters" based routines. Comparatively small numbers of sets of repeaters, with big rests between... but with lots of added weight - I'm hoping it will keep the fingers strong but add a wee bit of stamina for the routes season (rather than helping neither!).
I agree, I am no training guru (or even aficionado) from what I can gather, to gain max strength most efficiently, do relatively small numbers of hangs but with near as much added weight as you can.
Ms Lopez recommends starting off with 10s hangs off a 20-18mm edge with the amount of added weight you can hang at most for 13s - so your workout is at around 90-80% of capacity - to give a bit of margin to reduce injury risk. Rest well between hangs (3 mins) to ensure you can keep the added weight high throughout the workout.
She claims her research has found that you are best off using a larger edge with more added weight, than a smaller edge and less added weight - more muscle recruitment supposedly. Although, she recommends changing the hold size up or down every 4 weeks just to shake things up. Another way to alter the difficulty is to reduce the hang times from 10s, say, to 6s, using the amount of added weight you can hang at most for 8s.
An alternative regimen I have been trying lately (though not for a while - elbow tweaks and a desire to stay fresh and injury-free for Malham) was blogged by Mr Crusherholds, occasionally of this parish:
http://crusherholdsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/
It calculates the optimum load using a different method but seems to arrive at roughly the same added weight as the Lopez method. The routine seems to be a half-way house between "Lopez" max hangs and the normal "repeaters" based routines. Comparatively small numbers of sets of repeaters, with big rests between... but with lots of added weight - I'm hoping it will keep the fingers strong but add a wee bit of stamina for the routes season (rather than helping neither!).
In reply to AJM:
I was using max hang time rather than amount of assistance, so I was hanging for 10 secs whereas my max time for hang is prob 25 - 30 secs. I'd love to e able to add weight for assistance and do one arm stuff but at the moment that's not feasible
I was using max hang time rather than amount of assistance, so I was hanging for 10 secs whereas my max time for hang is prob 25 - 30 secs. I'd love to e able to add weight for assistance and do one arm stuff but at the moment that's not feasible
In reply to Tyler:
For added weight, I use an adjustable weight vest (from Amazon market place) - can be increased from 0-20kg in 0.5kg increments - plus a few old free weights on a bandolier made from the cut-off end of a rope. No one-arm stuff - just very weighted two-arms. I am too weak for one-arm stuff, lack the skills to set up a pulley, and lazy enough that exercising both arms at once appeals!
For added weight, I use an adjustable weight vest (from Amazon market place) - can be increased from 0-20kg in 0.5kg increments - plus a few old free weights on a bandolier made from the cut-off end of a rope. No one-arm stuff - just very weighted two-arms. I am too weak for one-arm stuff, lack the skills to set up a pulley, and lazy enough that exercising both arms at once appeals!
In reply to Tyler:
Fatiguing the muscle over longer times with lower loads and shorter rests ( at least around the 30-40% mark ) is usually associated with muscle growth (hypertrophy) rather than max strength, but I don't know if you can say the same about finger tendons ( now picturing body-builder style fingers. Ewww.... ).
> OK, before I go and waste another 10 mins of my life doing on the minute hangs at about 40% of my one rep max does anyone want to tell me if they are of any use and which energy system they might help with?
Fatiguing the muscle over longer times with lower loads and shorter rests ( at least around the 30-40% mark ) is usually associated with muscle growth (hypertrophy) rather than max strength, but I don't know if you can say the same about finger tendons ( now picturing body-builder style fingers. Ewww.... ).
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
When I was going to Rochdale regularly I had a pulley setup and started to get an idea how much weight to add, but:
a) I used their weights
b) The fixing for a pulley in the Depot looks a bit flimsy for the amount of weight I'll need to add
c) it's very publi in the Depot and I'll look like a bit of a tool doing assisted one arm hangs with 49% body weight assistance. The only people who do this sort of thing are very strong. I might get weight vest, if I lose some weight I could wear it under a T-shirt and no one would ever know
When I was going to Rochdale regularly I had a pulley setup and started to get an idea how much weight to add, but:
a) I used their weights
b) The fixing for a pulley in the Depot looks a bit flimsy for the amount of weight I'll need to add
c) it's very publi in the Depot and I'll look like a bit of a tool doing assisted one arm hangs with 49% body weight assistance. The only people who do this sort of thing are very strong. I might get weight vest, if I lose some weight I could wear it under a T-shirt and no one would ever know
In reply to planetmarshall:
That's put it into perspective, all I'm doing is some endurance type stuff so I may as well do some circuits, I suppose this has the advantage of being more skin friendly
That's put it into perspective, all I'm doing is some endurance type stuff so I may as well do some circuits, I suppose this has the advantage of being more skin friendly
In reply to Tyler:
Cheers re GBH - I don't know who was more surprised, me, or the regulars at Malham who had witnessed my earlier efforts! I had envisaged it being my season-long project - at the earliest succumbing to a renewed siege in autumn after a spring-summer gaining fitness at Kilnsey.
Re finger-boarding, I hadn't realised that you were using facilities at a wall. My own efforts are strictly private - I think I would feel a bit too self-conscious to use weight vests etc at the Depot. Also, I can't see the point of paying wall entry fees to do stuff that can be done as effectively at home for a modest investment.
Cheers re GBH - I don't know who was more surprised, me, or the regulars at Malham who had witnessed my earlier efforts! I had envisaged it being my season-long project - at the earliest succumbing to a renewed siege in autumn after a spring-summer gaining fitness at Kilnsey.
Re finger-boarding, I hadn't realised that you were using facilities at a wall. My own efforts are strictly private - I think I would feel a bit too self-conscious to use weight vests etc at the Depot. Also, I can't see the point of paying wall entry fees to do stuff that can be done as effectively at home for a modest investment.
1
In reply to Tyler:
Ah I getcha.
How do you feel at the end of it? That's probably the easiest way to tell...
Ah I getcha.
How do you feel at the end of it? That's probably the easiest way to tell...
In reply to Dandan:
Spill the beans...what're the top yoga tips?
> I've also been using some top yoga tips from a friend to stretch my hamstrings, and have miraculously gone from just touching my toes to being able to curl my fingers round my toes! Very good progress.
Spill the beans...what're the top yoga tips?
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
The point crusherholds makes about the most important grip types being 4 finger open handed and 3 finger half crimped is interesting. Does anyone know the logic behind this? I tend to train 4 fingers half crimped and 3 fingers open (the latter on a bigger hold than the former.) 3 fingers forced to be half crimped feels noticeably harder.
The point crusherholds makes about the most important grip types being 4 finger open handed and 3 finger half crimped is interesting. Does anyone know the logic behind this? I tend to train 4 fingers half crimped and 3 fingers open (the latter on a bigger hold than the former.) 3 fingers forced to be half crimped feels noticeably harder.
In reply to alexm198:
M-Nothing
T-Really tired so pottered around at the wall.
W-Foot-on campussing.
T-Rest
F-Board session and core.
S-Rest
S-LPT. Tried Mussel Beach but it was too cold for me. Managed to do first half and second half in links but my fingers kept getting too cold. It's not going anywhere! Hopefully get it done in a couple of weeks. Went upstairs and did my seemingly regular lap of Rock Atrocity. Probably should have tried something else, but went to look for Fish Pie instead. Looked really hard so went home.
M-Nothing
T-Really tired so pottered around at the wall.
W-Foot-on campussing.
T-Rest
F-Board session and core.
S-Rest
S-LPT. Tried Mussel Beach but it was too cold for me. Managed to do first half and second half in links but my fingers kept getting too cold. It's not going anywhere! Hopefully get it done in a couple of weeks. Went upstairs and did my seemingly regular lap of Rock Atrocity. Probably should have tried something else, but went to look for Fish Pie instead. Looked really hard so went home.
In reply to AJM:
Re:Cider Soak
I remember it always feeling really hard to link, and then falling off the last move. After refining the top and having a really low expectation go on second day on, it went really smoothly. I also remember having loads of fun on the middle section, the move from the pocket to the jugs was amazing! v5 into v6 into v4/5 sounds about right, as the top always feels really doable after a rest on the rope.
Re:Cider Soak
I remember it always feeling really hard to link, and then falling off the last move. After refining the top and having a really low expectation go on second day on, it went really smoothly. I also remember having loads of fun on the middle section, the move from the pocket to the jugs was amazing! v5 into v6 into v4/5 sounds about right, as the top always feels really doable after a rest on the rope.
In reply to JayK:
Ace isn't it!
Cool cheers, nice to know my internal benchmarking isn't too far out.
> I also remember having loads of fun on the middle section, the move from the pocket to the jugs was amazing!
Ace isn't it!
> v5 into v6 into v4/5 sounds about right, as the top always feels really doable after a rest on the rope.
Cool cheers, nice to know my internal benchmarking isn't too far out.
In reply to Si dH:
Well, I find my calves limit my stretching as they are agonising when I stretch with straight legs, so my yoga friend asked me a very obvious question; What do I want to achieve, touching my toes with straight legs or more flexibility? The answer is obvious and so is the solution, stretch my hamstrings with bent legs! Sit on your bum, knees nice and bent, toes pointing up and grab the arch of each foot with your hands. Concentrate on holding the lower back in to keep a straight back and relax your neck, lean forward to bring your chest to your knees.
Once sat comfortably, slowly 'walk' your feet away from you and try to keep your chest touching your knees and your lower back controlled.
I immediately felt stretching in my hamstrings instead of pain in my calves, I found the lower back got the most achey at first, I don't think it's very used to it, but the improvements were fast. Weirdly, I also feel a bit taller after i've done this stretch...
> Spill the beans...what're the top yoga tips?
Well, I find my calves limit my stretching as they are agonising when I stretch with straight legs, so my yoga friend asked me a very obvious question; What do I want to achieve, touching my toes with straight legs or more flexibility? The answer is obvious and so is the solution, stretch my hamstrings with bent legs! Sit on your bum, knees nice and bent, toes pointing up and grab the arch of each foot with your hands. Concentrate on holding the lower back in to keep a straight back and relax your neck, lean forward to bring your chest to your knees.
Once sat comfortably, slowly 'walk' your feet away from you and try to keep your chest touching your knees and your lower back controlled.
I immediately felt stretching in my hamstrings instead of pain in my calves, I found the lower back got the most achey at first, I don't think it's very used to it, but the improvements were fast. Weirdly, I also feel a bit taller after i've done this stretch...
2
In reply to Tyler:
The on the minute workout actually prescribed by my coach for finger strength - but much higher intensity efforts - and once you can hold it for 10 secs change the hold size or add weight.
He says do it 6 times otm then rest for a while and do two other grip types in the same session.
However if you're hanging off your fingers and it's really hard to hold on and you do it often enough, but not often enough to get injured, your fingers will get stronger.
Getting bogged down in the minutiae of it all just isn't needed I don't think.
Want to get fit for recovery and endurance = climb easy and lots
Want to get fit for pumpy stuff = climb lots of stuff that pumps you and don't fully recover before going again.
Etc etc etc.
If you're in the ball park it'll be doing a hell of a lot more than being sat on the settee.
The on the minute workout actually prescribed by my coach for finger strength - but much higher intensity efforts - and once you can hold it for 10 secs change the hold size or add weight.
He says do it 6 times otm then rest for a while and do two other grip types in the same session.
However if you're hanging off your fingers and it's really hard to hold on and you do it often enough, but not often enough to get injured, your fingers will get stronger.
Getting bogged down in the minutiae of it all just isn't needed I don't think.
Want to get fit for recovery and endurance = climb easy and lots
Want to get fit for pumpy stuff = climb lots of stuff that pumps you and don't fully recover before going again.
Etc etc etc.
If you're in the ball park it'll be doing a hell of a lot more than being sat on the settee.
1
In reply to Dandan: . Weirdly, I also feel a bit taller after i've done this stretch...
Now that would be a bonus...
Now that would be a bonus...
1
In reply to Tyler:
The night before I did GBH I was sitting on the sofa drinking bourbon - it had been a hard week, my elbows hurt, and I assumed GBH would be wet.... don't be afraid to chill and save the beastings for the crag.
The night before I did GBH I was sitting on the sofa drinking bourbon - it had been a hard week, my elbows hurt, and I assumed GBH would be wet.... don't be afraid to chill and save the beastings for the crag.
1
In reply to Tyler:
Doh!
It was meant to make you feel better, not worse.
Structure is important, but not so it becomes graphs and stats over actually doing something.
Have you ever had a go at putting a plan together? One that is workable for your life I mean, not a rigid one where you feel bad as you only hit 98.3% of your targets that week so you're a failure.
My 'phases' basically just have a focus. Any chance I get to climb i try and make it relevant to that phase without getting too strung out as I can only find a 30 move route to use and the plan says it should be 35 etc.
Moose is right over missing a session to be in better shape for a performance day. That's why we do it after all - to climb well on a project. Not so sure about the bourbon bit though.
> I feel bad now as I'm sat on the settee having sacked off going to the wall!
Doh!
It was meant to make you feel better, not worse.
Structure is important, but not so it becomes graphs and stats over actually doing something.
Have you ever had a go at putting a plan together? One that is workable for your life I mean, not a rigid one where you feel bad as you only hit 98.3% of your targets that week so you're a failure.
My 'phases' basically just have a focus. Any chance I get to climb i try and make it relevant to that phase without getting too strung out as I can only find a 30 move route to use and the plan says it should be 35 etc.
Moose is right over missing a session to be in better shape for a performance day. That's why we do it after all - to climb well on a project. Not so sure about the bourbon bit though.
1
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks Alex, unfortunately the 10k training has stalled again. Various foot-related issues, the worst of which (painful arch, L foot) seems to be exacerbated by climbing shoes. With the event in less than 2 weeks and no meaningful training since early March, I guess I'm running to complete now, rather than compete. I can have some vague hope that maybe my target time was sufficiently pessimistic that I can reach it on the back of some decent training back in Jan/Feb.
Timescales for goals are something along the lines of...
Short Term: the things I'm focussed on right now. e.g. the 10k is the next running event so my (complete lack of) running training is focussed on that. The Paradise Lost goal has to be short term because that half of Cheddar is restricted from July onwards.
Medium Term: other things I want to do this year.
Long Term: Unlikely to make the opportunity to do them this year, but may take some concrete steps.
BHAG: Some day...
M - Fingerboard. Not much, but trying to keep up frequent sessions of hanging on my fingers, at the very least.
T - 10km run. 4km pacing Emily, 4km attempting to run my race pace. Complete fail to hit pace target, deep (but not visible at the surface?) blister developing on R big toe, arch of L foot sore.
W - A few solos in Avon in the afternoon sun.
T - Redpoint. Ridiculously busy. Flash 7a+ (white, comp wall), finished off a 7a ('Irn Bru', fingery job up to big roll for penultimate hold) that gave me a bit of trouble a few weeks ago, 7a+ (orange, comp wall) second go.
F - Rest. (Lots of time spent walking around town trying to retrieve my bike)
S - Portland. Nipped into Wallsend before high tide, out again after. Had a big fight with Reverence (7a+) for the onsight, really pleased to get it! On the way out ticked Nothing but the Groove (6c+) - a bit of unfinished business for me.
S - Portland. Cuttings in the morning. 3 goes up Hall of Mirrors, but no tick. Blacknor North afternoon. Got on Imbolc (7b), a candidate for the worst bolting on Portland? Still, came to enjoy the moves through the crux and a bit disappointed not to get the tick. One to come back to (with some cams to protect the logical 'direct' finish rather than the sketchy shuffling left)
M - (bonus day but logically goes with this week) Portland, Cuttings. Back on Hall of Mirrors. 4 more times up, finally sorted out the beta/clips but faffed to much on the one decent RP attempt. Feels like it should go together but psyche was not high.
Saturday was probably the best day out I've had on Portland. We had the entire crag to ourselves, the sun came out in the evening, and I put in a decent performance on Reverence (despite it feeling pretty damp at times). Finishing off Nothing but the Groove in the low evening sun was just perfect.
I've learnt that if I'm going to attempt hard routes (above say 7b for me at the moment) I need to sort out my RP tactics. I've spent three sessions and 10 attempts (this is, tie-ins not RPs) on HoM now, at which point I start to get bored. If I'd just put my head down and worked it systematically from the beginning that would probably have been enough. Alternatively, I can just drop back to doing easier routes more quickly. Maybe I'd enjoy that more.
STG
Sub 40 in Bristol 10k. Unlikely.
Get on Paradise Lost (7b). I've been talking about this for years! I think now is the time to have a go, before the restrictions come in in July.
MTG
Keep the pressure on the E4s. Still have to get on Central Wall (E4 6a), Star Wars (E4 5c), Mother Africa (E4 6a), Pacemaker (E5 6a), ...
Sub 90 in Bristol half (September)
LTG
varied E5 onsights
Get out to Orkney with The Fox
Snowdonia marathon. I'll be up at midnight next New Year!
BHAG
The Long Hope Route
> Nick Russell: nice one, good luck with the 10k training then! What's the timescale on your STGs?
Thanks Alex, unfortunately the 10k training has stalled again. Various foot-related issues, the worst of which (painful arch, L foot) seems to be exacerbated by climbing shoes. With the event in less than 2 weeks and no meaningful training since early March, I guess I'm running to complete now, rather than compete. I can have some vague hope that maybe my target time was sufficiently pessimistic that I can reach it on the back of some decent training back in Jan/Feb.
Timescales for goals are something along the lines of...
Short Term: the things I'm focussed on right now. e.g. the 10k is the next running event so my (complete lack of) running training is focussed on that. The Paradise Lost goal has to be short term because that half of Cheddar is restricted from July onwards.
Medium Term: other things I want to do this year.
Long Term: Unlikely to make the opportunity to do them this year, but may take some concrete steps.
BHAG: Some day...
M - Fingerboard. Not much, but trying to keep up frequent sessions of hanging on my fingers, at the very least.
T - 10km run. 4km pacing Emily, 4km attempting to run my race pace. Complete fail to hit pace target, deep (but not visible at the surface?) blister developing on R big toe, arch of L foot sore.
W - A few solos in Avon in the afternoon sun.
T - Redpoint. Ridiculously busy. Flash 7a+ (white, comp wall), finished off a 7a ('Irn Bru', fingery job up to big roll for penultimate hold) that gave me a bit of trouble a few weeks ago, 7a+ (orange, comp wall) second go.
F - Rest. (Lots of time spent walking around town trying to retrieve my bike)
S - Portland. Nipped into Wallsend before high tide, out again after. Had a big fight with Reverence (7a+) for the onsight, really pleased to get it! On the way out ticked Nothing but the Groove (6c+) - a bit of unfinished business for me.
S - Portland. Cuttings in the morning. 3 goes up Hall of Mirrors, but no tick. Blacknor North afternoon. Got on Imbolc (7b), a candidate for the worst bolting on Portland? Still, came to enjoy the moves through the crux and a bit disappointed not to get the tick. One to come back to (with some cams to protect the logical 'direct' finish rather than the sketchy shuffling left)
M - (bonus day but logically goes with this week) Portland, Cuttings. Back on Hall of Mirrors. 4 more times up, finally sorted out the beta/clips but faffed to much on the one decent RP attempt. Feels like it should go together but psyche was not high.
Saturday was probably the best day out I've had on Portland. We had the entire crag to ourselves, the sun came out in the evening, and I put in a decent performance on Reverence (despite it feeling pretty damp at times). Finishing off Nothing but the Groove in the low evening sun was just perfect.
I've learnt that if I'm going to attempt hard routes (above say 7b for me at the moment) I need to sort out my RP tactics. I've spent three sessions and 10 attempts (this is, tie-ins not RPs) on HoM now, at which point I start to get bored. If I'd just put my head down and worked it systematically from the beginning that would probably have been enough. Alternatively, I can just drop back to doing easier routes more quickly. Maybe I'd enjoy that more.
STG
MTG
LTG
BHAG
In reply to alexm198:
Monday - nothing, workityworkworkwork.
Tuesday - running, attempted a 5k on 10k target pace (4:40/km) with Nick pacing for me (thank you!). Unfortunately the conditions weren't brilliant (thick, slightly smoggy mist first thing in the morning which really seemed to be bothering my breathing) and I think I warmed up a bit too fast, which was daft. Held on for 3.5k, then started falling quite badly off the pace, and decided to call it quits at 4k with 4:32, 4:35, 4:38 and 4:57. Not too upset about this because it's normally legs more than lungs holding me back in running and the former didn't feel that bad. Plus, adding my warmup km to the calculations left me not actually very far behind 4:40 pace. Total was 6.1km in 31:04.
Wednesday - running: 11.4km easy in 66:04.
Thursday - climbing at Redpoint. I got the grey 7a! First go up (after trying it last week) - it felt easy. It's obviously severely overgraded (I've definitely done harder 6cs) but it's still labelled 7a so maybe it will still provide some help with getting over the psychological barrier on a genuine indoor 7a sometime. Also flashed a slopey 6b and a nasty 6a+ slab that I had to dyno on.
Friday - running, 45 min as 15 easy warmup, 15 steady build from 5:40 to 4:30 pace, 15 easy cooldown, total 7.9km.
Saturday - afternoon climbing at Wallsend on Portland. In probably the best piece of outdoor climbing I've ever done, I managed to flash Stalker's Zone (6a+), a long and quite intimidating climb with genuinely pretty spaced clips, despite being freezing cold and having split a fingertip quite nastily near the bottom. I took several tries to get off the ledge at the second bolt but never weighted the rope, so decided to let myself have it. Pretty scared most of the way up but managed to keep going. I think this used up all of my mental climbing fortitude forever, unfortunately. Tried Trad Free World afterwards but didn't get on with that at all.
Sunday - climbing at the Cuttings and Blacknor north. So, so frustrated with how scared and useless I was after Saturday. Whimpered halfway up a 6a or two before giving up. Managed to do a 4+ onsight.
Goals / progress on them:
Short term (Apr)
Medium term (Apr, May, Jun)
Minor miracle level "maybe someday" wishes
> Emily: some good climbing volume, nice one. I bet the legs are breathing a sigh of relief haha. More running this week?
Thanks alex. Yeah, the legs feel better and I got back to the running a bit this week! Managed to do some good climbing (and some disappointing climbing) as well, in amongst a bit of a mad week for my PhD work.Monday - nothing, workityworkworkwork.
Tuesday - running, attempted a 5k on 10k target pace (4:40/km) with Nick pacing for me (thank you!). Unfortunately the conditions weren't brilliant (thick, slightly smoggy mist first thing in the morning which really seemed to be bothering my breathing) and I think I warmed up a bit too fast, which was daft. Held on for 3.5k, then started falling quite badly off the pace, and decided to call it quits at 4k with 4:32, 4:35, 4:38 and 4:57. Not too upset about this because it's normally legs more than lungs holding me back in running and the former didn't feel that bad. Plus, adding my warmup km to the calculations left me not actually very far behind 4:40 pace. Total was 6.1km in 31:04.
Wednesday - running: 11.4km easy in 66:04.
Thursday - climbing at Redpoint. I got the grey 7a! First go up (after trying it last week) - it felt easy. It's obviously severely overgraded (I've definitely done harder 6cs) but it's still labelled 7a so maybe it will still provide some help with getting over the psychological barrier on a genuine indoor 7a sometime. Also flashed a slopey 6b and a nasty 6a+ slab that I had to dyno on.
Friday - running, 45 min as 15 easy warmup, 15 steady build from 5:40 to 4:30 pace, 15 easy cooldown, total 7.9km.
Saturday - afternoon climbing at Wallsend on Portland. In probably the best piece of outdoor climbing I've ever done, I managed to flash Stalker's Zone (6a+), a long and quite intimidating climb with genuinely pretty spaced clips, despite being freezing cold and having split a fingertip quite nastily near the bottom. I took several tries to get off the ledge at the second bolt but never weighted the rope, so decided to let myself have it. Pretty scared most of the way up but managed to keep going. I think this used up all of my mental climbing fortitude forever, unfortunately. Tried Trad Free World afterwards but didn't get on with that at all.
Sunday - climbing at the Cuttings and Blacknor north. So, so frustrated with how scared and useless I was after Saturday. Whimpered halfway up a 6a or two before giving up. Managed to do a 4+ onsight.
Goals / progress on them:
Short term (Apr)
- keep weight trending downwards. More actionably: pay attention to food with this in mind
- down 0.3kg, did better than the last couple of weeks
- 3 runs/week per my plan for the next few weeks through April
- yes, got 3 in this week
- run 5k at 10k race target pace, maybe at Little Stoke park run
- had a vaguely credible attempt at this, shame I didn't make it to 5k but I think it still provided the confidence boost I was looking for
- stretch my legs every day this week because apparently I should admit that I am old and also haven't done any yoga lately
- definitely didn't manage every day but did some most days and did feel the benefit; will keep this one on here!
- embarrass myself as thoroughly as possible at this weekend's Cambridge alumni-vs-current-team swimming relays. I'm going to get the fly leg aren't I...
Medium term (Apr, May, Jun)
- follow running plan for Bristol 10k
- 26/36 done, 1 skipped
- aim for course (and distance) PB at the Bristol 10k, so sub 47:14. Target pace 4:40ish I guess
- find another local(ish) climb to work on?
Minor miracle level "maybe someday" wishes
- redpoint something beginning with 7 indoors?
- well, I kind of did this! Very pleased with the climb but I'm under no illusion that it genuinely ticks this box. Guess I'll change this goal to "something legitimately beginning with 7"
- redpoint something beginning with 7 outdoors??
- lead a VS??? (don't care whether onsight or after seconding a billion times, but this does include placing the gear myself)
1
In reply to biscuit:
A fine single malt is also acceptable; no need to be proscriptive about these things. I am pretty cosmopolitan - any coopered spirit will do!
Seriously though, by necessity I generally only climb on weekends - midweek activity is at most a fingerboard session. I would hate to feel that I am compromising my weekend at the crag with fatigue / bad skin. Tyler - it might be worth taking it easy for a week or two and build the psyche (and skin) for an all-out assault at the weekend.
That said, I have a lot of leave to use up by the end of June so I will hopefully be climbing a lot midweek - last Thursday I had my first non-statutory day-off since December. I just hope it results in increased rate of tickage and doesn't break me!
> Moose is right over missing a session to be in better shape for a performance day. That's why we do it after all - to climb well on a project. Not so sure about the bourbon bit though.
A fine single malt is also acceptable; no need to be proscriptive about these things. I am pretty cosmopolitan - any coopered spirit will do!
Seriously though, by necessity I generally only climb on weekends - midweek activity is at most a fingerboard session. I would hate to feel that I am compromising my weekend at the crag with fatigue / bad skin. Tyler - it might be worth taking it easy for a week or two and build the psyche (and skin) for an all-out assault at the weekend.
That said, I have a lot of leave to use up by the end of June so I will hopefully be climbing a lot midweek - last Thursday I had my first non-statutory day-off since December. I just hope it results in increased rate of tickage and doesn't break me!
In reply to Nick Russell:
> Thanks Alex, unfortunately the 10k training has stalled again. Various foot-related issues, the worst of which (painful arch, L foot) seems to be exacerbated by climbing shoes. With the event in less than 2 weeks and no meaningful training since early March, I guess I'm running to complete now, rather than compete. I can have some vague hope that maybe my target time was sufficiently pessimistic that I can reach it on the back of some decent training back in Jan/Feb.
You do mean less than 4 weeks here, right? I still kind of suspect you're fit enough to carry this off, especially if you could get some speed work in over the next 2 weeks, but I guess it depends how bad the foot arch thing is. Don't be disheartened about Tuesday's run: sustaining a fast pace with nothing but the clock with you is really really hard. In reply to Nick Russell:
I found the clipping on HoM was pretty key to it. My top beta, looking at my notes, was to ignore clip 5 and instead reach up and snick in an extended clip 6 from the excellent hold on the right arete then downclimb a move or two before launching into the main sequence. Then in the hard bit, forget clip 7 altogether and mega extend clip 8 so you can reach it on balance once safely in the groove. Does mean some big fall potential, but i took the ride several times and it is totally freash air! I also got a sequence that used as little fridge hugging as possible (just 1 slap) by using some seriously tiny feet on the left of the lip.
I found the clipping on HoM was pretty key to it. My top beta, looking at my notes, was to ignore clip 5 and instead reach up and snick in an extended clip 6 from the excellent hold on the right arete then downclimb a move or two before launching into the main sequence. Then in the hard bit, forget clip 7 altogether and mega extend clip 8 so you can reach it on balance once safely in the groove. Does mean some big fall potential, but i took the ride several times and it is totally freash air! I also got a sequence that used as little fridge hugging as possible (just 1 slap) by using some seriously tiny feet on the left of the lip.
In reply to Emily:
>Don't be disheartened about Tuesday's run...
Thanks for the comments. It is hard with nobody else to pace off, and I know that mornings aren't the best time for me! We'll see how the foot thing pans out: realising that there's 4 weeks to go is better than 2.
> You do mean less than 4 weeks here, right?
Ha, yes! I've been counting the last two weeks as 'taper' since I started training for it in January, so somehow I must have mentally discounted them entirely!>Don't be disheartened about Tuesday's run...
Thanks for the comments. It is hard with nobody else to pace off, and I know that mornings aren't the best time for me! We'll see how the foot thing pans out: realising that there's 4 weeks to go is better than 2.
In reply to hms:
I'm not sure if it would be worth downclimbing to the shakeout from clip 5 because it's not a particularly tricky/strenuous one. Worth bearing in mind though.
> I found the clipping on HoM was pretty key to it.
Thanks for the beta... I tried something similar to that with the clipping (but without mega extending 8 and without downclimbing to the shakeout). The solution I settled on is to clip 5 (short-ish) draw from the LH jug on the lip then skip 6. I can get 7 (modest extender) from a R heel hook above the lip before going for the crimp on the arete. I know opinions differ on how stable that heel hook position is, but I find it solid and got to the crimp from the ground twice so it's not just a case of "OK when I'm fresh".I'm not sure if it would be worth downclimbing to the shakeout from clip 5 because it's not a particularly tricky/strenuous one. Worth bearing in mind though.
> I also got a sequence that used as little fridge hugging as possible (just 1 slap) by using some seriously tiny feet on the left of the lip.
From my sneaky look at your logbooks I'd already concluded that your sequence is completely different to mine! I think I'm pretty strong on fridge hugging moves so the 3 slaps is ok for me. I'd be interested to see what the alternative looks like because it isn't apparent to me at all... In reply to Nick Russell:
I wish I could remember the HOM sequence so I could contribute, but I think I have a video of my redpoint if you want it?
I don't recall doing any extending or clip skipping so there might be some good clipping beta in there?
I wish I could remember the HOM sequence so I could contribute, but I think I have a video of my redpoint if you want it?
I don't recall doing any extending or clip skipping so there might be some good clipping beta in there?
In reply to Nick Russell:
I found that coming off the rope I could avoid all fridge hugging via the use of a dropknee kneescum on the flowstone sidepull/undercut thing, although on a link it was easier to use the right hand side as an intermediate. Surely if you've got the crimp from the ground several times its all over bar the formalities?
I found that coming off the rope I could avoid all fridge hugging via the use of a dropknee kneescum on the flowstone sidepull/undercut thing, although on a link it was easier to use the right hand side as an intermediate. Surely if you've got the crimp from the ground several times its all over bar the formalities?
In reply to Nick Russell:
I didn't come right back down to the shake-out rest from clip 6 - just a move or two to then use the undercut and LH jug
And I dispensed with the heel-hook because although I could get it in beautifully and it held just fine, as soon as I tried to release it I barn-doored off every time. Would never have been able to get clip 7 in from there!
I didn't come right back down to the shake-out rest from clip 6 - just a move or two to then use the undercut and LH jug
And I dispensed with the heel-hook because although I could get it in beautifully and it held just fine, as soon as I tried to release it I barn-doored off every time. Would never have been able to get clip 7 in from there!
In reply to hms:
Ah, but this is the most satisfying part of my sequence! I get the RH crimp with the heel on, switch to a toe and get the LH back down to the flowstone sidepull/undercut thing which controls the barndoor so I can release the toe and switch feet.
> as soon as I tried to release it I barn-doored off every time.
Ah, but this is the most satisfying part of my sequence! I get the RH crimp with the heel on, switch to a toe and get the LH back down to the flowstone sidepull/undercut thing which controls the barndoor so I can release the toe and switch feet.
In reply to AJM:
> I found that coming off the rope I could avoid all fridge hugging via the use of a dropknee kneescum on the flowstone sidepull/undercut thing, although on a link it was easier to use the right hand side as an intermediate.
The more I read other people's beta the more I start to think that either there's a lot of ways to do this route, or I've got a really wacky sequence.> Surely if you've got the crimp from the ground several times its all over bar the formalities?
I find the next more harder. I'm doing a big LH move up to the arete above the crimp. Then there's an easier move to get my RH to a higher crimp on the arete followed by another potential stopper big move left to get LH on a sloper/ledge on the left wall of the groove. Above there I'd say it's over bar the formalities... I think I can do it this way, and linking to the crimp from the ground was the big one for me, but it's still not going to be easy! (And it depends on how long it is before I have another go. It could be a while.) In reply to Nick Russell:
Hmm... I know my friend Ed fell off above that crimp several times but his was something of a siege and he knew he was getting well beyond the crux when he fell. I suspect you're in a small minority in finding those moves up the arête harder than coming through the bulge and up to that crimp. I guess the moves going up to the crimp probably got uk6b when the route was given an E grade and on that scale id say from the crimp upwards should be about 5c/6a once you know where you're going?
I've been up the route maybe 3 times, but from the crimp I think I walked my feet up a bit on the left, got the good left hand sidepully bit of arête, stood up again, using at some point in this process a right toehook, to get the higher crimp, and there's a better foot out left and you just reach across to the good holds on the left of the groove.
> The more I read other people's beta the more I start to think that either there's a lot of ways to do this route, or I've got a really wacky sequence
> I find the next more harder.
Hmm... I know my friend Ed fell off above that crimp several times but his was something of a siege and he knew he was getting well beyond the crux when he fell. I suspect you're in a small minority in finding those moves up the arête harder than coming through the bulge and up to that crimp. I guess the moves going up to the crimp probably got uk6b when the route was given an E grade and on that scale id say from the crimp upwards should be about 5c/6a once you know where you're going?
I've been up the route maybe 3 times, but from the crimp I think I walked my feet up a bit on the left, got the good left hand sidepully bit of arête, stood up again, using at some point in this process a right toehook, to get the higher crimp, and there's a better foot out left and you just reach across to the good holds on the left of the groove.
In reply to AJM:
Interesting. Sounds like I've got some potential for refinement up there then... I'll agree that the initial pull over the roof is the hardest single move, but I suspect I'm more likely to fall off above it (more tired, more moves, no rest before)
Interesting. Sounds like I've got some potential for refinement up there then... I'll agree that the initial pull over the roof is the hardest single move, but I suspect I'm more likely to fall off above it (more tired, more moves, no rest before)
In reply to alexm198:
Just so you don't get confused on Sunday, I've changed my username from stevemarkperry to heelhookofglory. Still the same me
Just so you don't get confused on Sunday, I've changed my username from stevemarkperry to heelhookofglory. Still the same me
In reply to alexm198:
Should probably get back into the swing of actually posting here! I've had a rubbish couple of weeks ever since coming back from the alps - ill for a week and then perpetually off the wagon, it seems. Back on now, have been running and down the wall quite regularly and enjoying an indoor bouldering psyche renaissance which I'm keen to capitalise on!
Last week:
M: 2 hours down the Arch. Can't remember what I did exactly but think it was a mixture of yellow, blue spots and blue, so V2-V4 region I think. Mostly flashes. Finished off with 3x10s hangs on the easy BM2k slopers.
T: Rest
W: 2 hours at the Arch. More of the yellow (done most of them now) as well as a couple of worked pink/greens. 3x10s hangs on easy bm2k slopers.
T: 9km run, HR monitor was out of battery but felt probably Z2/3 for most of it.
F: 2 hours at the Arch with girlfriend, got there about an hour before her so was able to warm up and quickly mission round working some more of the pink/greens. Then it was lots of super easy stuff and encouragement for the other half. She enjoyed it much more than when I've taken her climbing outside so that's a plus... 3x10s hangs on easy bm2k slopers.
S: Rest
S: 4.8km Z3 tempo-ish run. Tried to keep a consistent 5:00km, worked out pretty well. Came in at around 24 minutes if I recall correctly.
STGs for this week:
- 2 sessions at the wall
- 1 run
- Get out on the weekend (binned off going to the alps as the weather is absolute balls).
Some questions for the FC massive:
- I'm feeling really motivated for bouldering at the moment, largely because it's easy for me to get a good session in after work during the week. I'd like to do more sport climbing this summer as I think it's about time I invested as much effort into getting stronger on rock as I try to do with winter and alpine. Is it realistic for me to aim for a 7a RP by the end of the year? If so, what's the best way for me to go about this? Ideally I'd like to get strong by doing a lot more bouldering and then adding some stamina later on?! What sort of bouldering standard would I need to be at for most 7a routes?
- This is largely aimed at Andrew and anyone else who runs governed by HR zones - what split of Z1:anything else do you find works best? Last year I ran almost exclusively in Zones 1 & 2 and I found that it took forever for me to gain fitness (and I was putting in 30 mile weeks fairly regularly). Previously when I trained for a marathon (2013) I went from just about being able to put away 10km, to being able to run 20 miles (albeit feeling pretty wasted by the end) in the space of about 3 months, and that was by doing a much greater mixture of easy and more strenuous runs.
Should probably get back into the swing of actually posting here! I've had a rubbish couple of weeks ever since coming back from the alps - ill for a week and then perpetually off the wagon, it seems. Back on now, have been running and down the wall quite regularly and enjoying an indoor bouldering psyche renaissance which I'm keen to capitalise on!
Last week:
M: 2 hours down the Arch. Can't remember what I did exactly but think it was a mixture of yellow, blue spots and blue, so V2-V4 region I think. Mostly flashes. Finished off with 3x10s hangs on the easy BM2k slopers.
T: Rest
W: 2 hours at the Arch. More of the yellow (done most of them now) as well as a couple of worked pink/greens. 3x10s hangs on easy bm2k slopers.
T: 9km run, HR monitor was out of battery but felt probably Z2/3 for most of it.
F: 2 hours at the Arch with girlfriend, got there about an hour before her so was able to warm up and quickly mission round working some more of the pink/greens. Then it was lots of super easy stuff and encouragement for the other half. She enjoyed it much more than when I've taken her climbing outside so that's a plus... 3x10s hangs on easy bm2k slopers.
S: Rest
S: 4.8km Z3 tempo-ish run. Tried to keep a consistent 5:00km, worked out pretty well. Came in at around 24 minutes if I recall correctly.
STGs for this week:
- 2 sessions at the wall
- 1 run
- Get out on the weekend (binned off going to the alps as the weather is absolute balls).
Some questions for the FC massive:
- I'm feeling really motivated for bouldering at the moment, largely because it's easy for me to get a good session in after work during the week. I'd like to do more sport climbing this summer as I think it's about time I invested as much effort into getting stronger on rock as I try to do with winter and alpine. Is it realistic for me to aim for a 7a RP by the end of the year? If so, what's the best way for me to go about this? Ideally I'd like to get strong by doing a lot more bouldering and then adding some stamina later on?! What sort of bouldering standard would I need to be at for most 7a routes?
- This is largely aimed at Andrew and anyone else who runs governed by HR zones - what split of Z1:anything else do you find works best? Last year I ran almost exclusively in Zones 1 & 2 and I found that it took forever for me to gain fitness (and I was putting in 30 mile weeks fairly regularly). Previously when I trained for a marathon (2013) I went from just about being able to put away 10km, to being able to run 20 miles (albeit feeling pretty wasted by the end) in the space of about 3 months, and that was by doing a much greater mixture of easy and more strenuous runs.
Post edited at 21:57
In reply to alexm198:
I would guesstimate the hardest crux sequence I've come across on a 7a is V3/4. This was straight out of a good hands off rest and followed by 6b+ climbing to the chains.
So if you can do V4 outside then you should be fine.
I nearly put outside in capitals as it's very different. I can flash V6 on a good day indoors. My best ever outdoors is V7 and last Summer I flashed a V4.
So not very hard really, but the ability to read the rock is probably more important.
This also all depends on what type of 7a it is: technical, power endurance, short and powerful, long and endurancy etc etc.
However what harm will come from going for it? You may get it, you may not, but you will become a better climber whatever the result. Win win!
I would guesstimate the hardest crux sequence I've come across on a 7a is V3/4. This was straight out of a good hands off rest and followed by 6b+ climbing to the chains.
So if you can do V4 outside then you should be fine.
I nearly put outside in capitals as it's very different. I can flash V6 on a good day indoors. My best ever outdoors is V7 and last Summer I flashed a V4.
So not very hard really, but the ability to read the rock is probably more important.
This also all depends on what type of 7a it is: technical, power endurance, short and powerful, long and endurancy etc etc.
However what harm will come from going for it? You may get it, you may not, but you will become a better climber whatever the result. Win win!
In reply to biscuit:
Cheers biscuit, yes I have been spanked many a time by the gulf in difficulty between indoor and outdoor! Will have to seek out some nearby venues.
Cheers biscuit, yes I have been spanked many a time by the gulf in difficulty between indoor and outdoor! Will have to seek out some nearby venues.
In reply to alexm198:
Given your alpine fitness, trad up to E1? (I just peeked briefly at your logbook) and age, then yes, 7a should be easily achievable. If you are psyched for bouldering then just do that until you can get outside. Your strategy will work.
Re: grades, what biscuit said, but, when you're a boulderer v4 half way up a route might feel harder than v6 off the deck.
If you are short on endurance then being over strong can only help anyway.
Given your alpine fitness, trad up to E1? (I just peeked briefly at your logbook) and age, then yes, 7a should be easily achievable. If you are psyched for bouldering then just do that until you can get outside. Your strategy will work.
Re: grades, what biscuit said, but, when you're a boulderer v4 half way up a route might feel harder than v6 off the deck.
If you are short on endurance then being over strong can only help anyway.
Post edited at 23:01
In reply to alexm198:
Btw, your biggest challenge is likely to be tactics eg trying to onsight everything. Read up on that before you first try one.
Btw, your biggest challenge is likely to be tactics eg trying to onsight everything. Read up on that before you first try one.
In reply to alexm198:
I'd agree that you are unlikely to see any moves harder than V4 on a 7a, and significantly less so if it's of any significant length, say 20m or more.
To gain the endurance for a successful 7a redpoint (or onsight!) you could do boulder 4x4's - pick a problem you can do reasonably comfortably and repeat it 4 times with no rest (jump off and pull back on as quickly as possible). Have a rest approximately as long as it took to do the 4 reps, pick another problem and repeat, do this 4 times in total. With boulder 4x4's you could repeat the whole thing again if you are feeling energetic.
Or my favourite, boulder link ups - make odd number combos (3,5 or 7) of problems of varying difficulty up to near your maximum boulder grade, then climb them in an up-down-up-down-up fashion, always make the down part a reasonably easy problem.
So you might do:
UP v3 DOWN v2 UP v4 DOWN v1 UP v3
or:
UP v6 DOWN v1 UP v6
Again, shortish rest between reps and try to do 6 link ups in a set, long rest between sets and try for 2 or even 3 sets, expect to fail, a lot.
I'd agree that you are unlikely to see any moves harder than V4 on a 7a, and significantly less so if it's of any significant length, say 20m or more.
To gain the endurance for a successful 7a redpoint (or onsight!) you could do boulder 4x4's - pick a problem you can do reasonably comfortably and repeat it 4 times with no rest (jump off and pull back on as quickly as possible). Have a rest approximately as long as it took to do the 4 reps, pick another problem and repeat, do this 4 times in total. With boulder 4x4's you could repeat the whole thing again if you are feeling energetic.
Or my favourite, boulder link ups - make odd number combos (3,5 or 7) of problems of varying difficulty up to near your maximum boulder grade, then climb them in an up-down-up-down-up fashion, always make the down part a reasonably easy problem.
So you might do:
UP v3 DOWN v2 UP v4 DOWN v1 UP v3
or:
UP v6 DOWN v1 UP v6
Again, shortish rest between reps and try to do 6 link ups in a set, long rest between sets and try for 2 or even 3 sets, expect to fail, a lot.
In reply to Si dH:
This is very true. Don't neglect the fitness training (10min on 10min off after a bouldering session, or doubles/triples on routes, or something like that), or you will have to invest a lot more effort into building your strength than otherwise.
Dandy's suggestions are good for topping up that power endurance closer to sending time, although I would take his actual grade ranges with a pinch of salt as they are overkill for the 7a aspirant!
> when you're a boulderer v4 half way up a route might feel harder than v6 off the deck.
This is very true. Don't neglect the fitness training (10min on 10min off after a bouldering session, or doubles/triples on routes, or something like that), or you will have to invest a lot more effort into building your strength than otherwise.
Dandy's suggestions are good for topping up that power endurance closer to sending time, although I would take his actual grade ranges with a pinch of salt as they are overkill for the 7a aspirant!
In reply to AJM:
sorry, just numbers dribbling out of my head as I typed!
> although I would take his actual grade ranges with a pinch of salt as they are overkill for the 7a aspirant!
sorry, just numbers dribbling out of my head as I typed!
In reply to alexm198:
If you are doing all the yellows at the arch, you can climb 7a now i'd say. Get out and try one, then you'll see whats missing to train.
If you've never redpointed before theres usually a few free grades to be had just by working a route and developing some RP tactics.
If you are doing all the yellows at the arch, you can climb 7a now i'd say. Get out and try one, then you'll see whats missing to train.
If you've never redpointed before theres usually a few free grades to be had just by working a route and developing some RP tactics.
In reply to Dandan:
V5ish well into a route of any length is a pretty common description of many 7c+/8a's, let alone 7a. The Bulge and Dead Calm at Kilnsey; Baboo and maybe Toadal Recall at Malham spring to mind (Raindogs famously is like a succession of V2s).
Personally, I reckon the best way to get 7as ticked, if you're reasonably fit is to get on them and stop worrying about if you're "ready". When I transition outdoors after a long winter indoors, the main problem with the adjustment is developing the confidence and speed of thought and movement to move efficiently between terrible footholds - no amount of indoor bouldering games really helps with that.
> I'd agree that you are unlikely to see any moves harder than V4 on a 7a, and significantly less so if it's of any significant length, say 20m or more.
V5ish well into a route of any length is a pretty common description of many 7c+/8a's, let alone 7a. The Bulge and Dead Calm at Kilnsey; Baboo and maybe Toadal Recall at Malham spring to mind (Raindogs famously is like a succession of V2s).
Personally, I reckon the best way to get 7as ticked, if you're reasonably fit is to get on them and stop worrying about if you're "ready". When I transition outdoors after a long winter indoors, the main problem with the adjustment is developing the confidence and speed of thought and movement to move efficiently between terrible footholds - no amount of indoor bouldering games really helps with that.
Post edited at 08:21
2
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
Based on the discussions and conclusions last week, this is good advice for anyone at any grade.
> Personally, I reckon the best way to get *Insert grade here* ticked, if you're reasonably fit is to get on them and stop worrying about if you're "ready".
Based on the discussions and conclusions last week, this is good advice for anyone at any grade.
In reply to alexm198:
Thanks for doing the stats Alex! Elbow is fine luckily, just hit the rock I suppose. Unfortunately I haven’t been to Lofoten yet, but some of my friends have, what kind of info is it you’re after? Maybe some of my friends will have the answer . As for 7a, if I remember correct one of the routes you did in cham was 6b trad? I’d say you’re ready for 7a then, just pick one. For the one 7a I did the moves of (haven’t linked yet) I would say 4 moves 6A+ boulder, then 7 meters of 6a+ climbing and a 6A+/B boulder to top it off.
M: climbing outdoors, just flailed, got halfway up my trad project, but thought it took too long and it was my mates first outdoor day of the year so bailed to give him the chance to climb something.
T: climbing outdoors, back at the project, managed to fail at almost every move, so tested almost all placements, also had 2 good whippers from the top jug, one upside down fall where I hurt my bum, ribs and shoulder a bit. Did manage to free all the moves though .
W: rest/sore, but did walk 9km to uni and work to keep my left leg from getting stiff and as cycling was too painfull.
T: climbing outdoors, repeated a 6 two times as a warmup and then did a 7- I tried last year and struggeled before the move people see as the crux, got new beta for below crux and easy it went. Also tried a 7+/8- on toprope, got some nice moves, but little too hard to have as a project I think.
F: running + stretching.
S: climbing outdoors, repeated a trad 4 and 5 and a bolted 6.
S: climbing outdoors, warmed up on 6- then went for 7- which went second try. Then thought to onsight a 6+, but got myself stuck with my beta and fell, it didn’t even go in the two rp tries afterwards, I think I’m missing something, it felt way harder then the 7-s I’ve done til now.
As for the goals: (7- trad rp, 6 trad os, 7+ sport rp and 7- sport onsight). Did all the moves free on 7- trad project now and tried onsighting a 6+ as step up to 7- os, but failed on it. I must say I’ve never climbed a 6+ outdoors, neither onsight or redpoint, something strange with them.
Thanks for doing the stats Alex! Elbow is fine luckily, just hit the rock I suppose. Unfortunately I haven’t been to Lofoten yet, but some of my friends have, what kind of info is it you’re after? Maybe some of my friends will have the answer . As for 7a, if I remember correct one of the routes you did in cham was 6b trad? I’d say you’re ready for 7a then, just pick one. For the one 7a I did the moves of (haven’t linked yet) I would say 4 moves 6A+ boulder, then 7 meters of 6a+ climbing and a 6A+/B boulder to top it off.
M: climbing outdoors, just flailed, got halfway up my trad project, but thought it took too long and it was my mates first outdoor day of the year so bailed to give him the chance to climb something.
T: climbing outdoors, back at the project, managed to fail at almost every move, so tested almost all placements, also had 2 good whippers from the top jug, one upside down fall where I hurt my bum, ribs and shoulder a bit. Did manage to free all the moves though .
W: rest/sore, but did walk 9km to uni and work to keep my left leg from getting stiff and as cycling was too painfull.
T: climbing outdoors, repeated a 6 two times as a warmup and then did a 7- I tried last year and struggeled before the move people see as the crux, got new beta for below crux and easy it went. Also tried a 7+/8- on toprope, got some nice moves, but little too hard to have as a project I think.
F: running + stretching.
S: climbing outdoors, repeated a trad 4 and 5 and a bolted 6.
S: climbing outdoors, warmed up on 6- then went for 7- which went second try. Then thought to onsight a 6+, but got myself stuck with my beta and fell, it didn’t even go in the two rp tries afterwards, I think I’m missing something, it felt way harder then the 7-s I’ve done til now.
As for the goals: (7- trad rp, 6 trad os, 7+ sport rp and 7- sport onsight). Did all the moves free on 7- trad project now and tried onsighting a 6+ as step up to 7- os, but failed on it. I must say I’ve never climbed a 6+ outdoors, neither onsight or redpoint, something strange with them.
In reply to alexm198:
sneaky again, for which I am sorry ...
M: Ski touring/AIARE course
yoga
T: Ski touring/AIARE course
Yoga
W: Ski toured one of Colorado's 14ers
T: skiing
Breck Rec CapPow/ boulders/conditioning
Yoga
F: skiing
Yoga
S: a couple of runs before driving to Golden to get to the airport side of the mountains before the storm hit
S: mixed session at Earth Treks 1on2off/campus/bouldering (including my first 1-legged v4!)
sneaky again, for which I am sorry ...
M: Ski touring/AIARE course
yoga
T: Ski touring/AIARE course
Yoga
W: Ski toured one of Colorado's 14ers
T: skiing
Breck Rec CapPow/ boulders/conditioning
Yoga
F: skiing
Yoga
S: a couple of runs before driving to Golden to get to the airport side of the mountains before the storm hit
S: mixed session at Earth Treks 1on2off/campus/bouldering (including my first 1-legged v4!)
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...