In reply to Dandan:
Q3 functional goals:
Benchmark finger strength %); then aim for 2% point increase (work out adaptation of the 2x max pull-up routine that worked so well last year, but in a way that doesn’t tweak my elbows)
Benchmark an-cap; then aim for >10% increase in both parameters. Initially very specific training via laps of key 12-move sections of tTotG’s; Second fifth, Mr Skin, Bend, and Low Life
Increase static core strength to maximise use of tTotGs kneebar rests. >4min plank; >90s side plank; 90s V-sit with perfect form; 3x30 kneebar sit-ups in Parisella’s slot; maintain weekly yoga sessions.
August route goals:
- Traverse of the Gods, f8b+
- Clean and do Gorge projects:
o Link-up heaven; stamina f8a+/b?
o Devil’s Haircut extension; bouldery f8a+/b?
- Bolt, clean and try rest of Kilnsey project – probably a 2017 RP aim now?
- Broken Heart/Almost Familiar link-up, f8b
End of year route goals:
Continue with RP’ing projects (listed from stamina to boulder intensity):
- Traverse of the Gods, f8b+
- Bolt and clean rest of Kilnsey project
- Gorge projects, both f8a+/b
- Well Done Finish, f8b
- Waddage, f8b
- Cider Soak, f8a
- Broken Heart/Almost Familiar link-up, f8b
- Tor link-up, f8a+/b
Week 30:
M - CyL after work, very productive session despite the minging hot & sweaty conditions. Middle bit (f7c) to warm-up, then an-cap laps of sections of the lenny, each 55-65s long, with 2.5min rest interval. 4xBend (cross through method). 10min rest. 4x Low Life (couple of failures – good to wire the engram). 10min rest. 4x Bend (failed on cross through and reverted to shuffle method – good discovery that the cross through doesn’t work when bolx’d) 10min rest. 4x Mr Skin – 50% failure on last move, though I was taped up by that point. 10min aero-cap warm-down.
T - 5min core app and stretching only
W - Hoopla bouldering. It was meant to be Parisella’s but the traffic was murder. Got spanked initially, but got in the groove by the end and had managed to repeat a bunch of things, including Foghorn Leghorn, a steep and slappy 7B.
T - Yoga
F - Too much work to get out, so trained at home before curry gluttony. Benchmarking session:
- Finger strength: somewhere between 73 & 74 kg – closer to 74kg on the right than left = ~97%. Now aim for 99%
- An-cap: 53s constant (equal to Oct ’15) & 178s intermittent (18% increase on Oct ’15). Now aim for >60s constant and >200s intermittent.
Then did 15x 1on/1off aero-cap FoC with 3kg on harness; skin was screaming. 3x20 8kg shoulder press. 3x30 inclined press-ups. 2min plank. 5min core-app.
S - 25mile MTB on mostly easy trails/quiet lanes with the lady. Added
The Spider (8a) and
Sirplum (E1 5b) to the “must-get-round-to-doing-them-one-day” list
S - 9miles walking in/above Dovedale; added
Arch Enemies (7c+) and Tom’s direct finish to Eye of the Tiger to the “must-get-round-to-doing-them-one-day” list