Performance Rock Shoes
'Performance' is a huge category, so with UK sport climbing in mind we've narrowed the focus of this review to down-turned, supportive shoes with a good edge. How did they all do?
Here Tom Dixon takes a close look at the new Five Ten Anasazi V2 and also gives us a bit of a history lesson.
To summarise, more people sent more hard routes and boulder problems in a pair of Pinks than any other shoe ever and I don't need to conduct a survey to tell you that.
In order to maintain the heel tension Five Ten have used a double rand, so even when they break in it'll take a fair while before they stretch too much. I've found this shoe to perform really well on edges and smears alike making it really versatile. This kind of flatter lasted performance shoe has been superseded by down turned shoes like the Five Ten Dragon, Scarpa Booster or La Sportiva Solution when it comes to really steep overhanging terrain but where these shoes start to falter on slabs and vertical walls the Anasazi Version 2 excels whilst being able to turn its hand to roofs as well, making for a superb all rounder.
If you have a narrower foot then it's definitely worth trying a pair of the V2's as you can crank the laces right in to make a for a really secure fit. I'm happy to see the return of Stealth C4 on this shoe and know that I'm not alone in saying this, it looks, for the moment, like Five Ten are continuing with the Verde so you can have your choice of soles and stiffness. Now we just need to get them to make the V10 again and everyone's a winner. (continued below>
The Anasazi Version 2 has Five Ten's superb synthetic leather Cowdura™ which has a great feel and resists stretch really well so they don't become baggy once you've worn them in.
We've refined the Five Ten Lace-Up that has delivered climbers to the top of more 5.14s than any other shoe. The lined Cowdura™ synthetic upper fits like a glove; providing the same fit, climb after climb, as the day the shoe was born. Stealth® C4™ rubber soles offer extremely high friction and great sensitivity.
- Lined Cowdura synthetic upper
- Stealth C4 soles
- Dual pull-on loops
Designer: Charles Cole
Concept: High-end sport climbing shoe with an emphasis on edging performance.
Tom's other articles and reviews for UKClimbing.com include:
- UK Bouldering 2007: The UK's Best Boulderers Feb/2008
- Snap Pads Dec/2007
- Bouldering Mats Dec/2007
- eVent Fabric Apr/2007
- The Boreal Mutant Apr/2007
- The Scarpa Stix Apr/2007
- The Moon Fingerboard Nov/2006
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