How do you make a great product even greater? This is something we were curious to find out, because both our reviewers have been big fans of the Drago and Drago LV, and struggled to imagine what more the Drago XT might bring to the table! The answer turns out to be a lot. Both Xa and Penny have come to the conclusion that when it comes to performance bouldering there is one Drago to rule them all - and that is the Drago XT.

In Use

Xa: The Drago XT is a specialist shoe, designed for performance bouldering both indoors and out, and it's one that excels in pretty much every area. Slabs? Check. Steep terrain? Double check. It's good on smears, it's good on small edges, and it's good on everything in between. From a bouldering perspective, it's hard to find fault with it.

Prior to reviewing the Drago XT I'd used the original Drago for a long time, and there are a few things that set the Drago XT apart. Most noticeable for me is the heel, which is by far the most precise and the stickiest that I've ever used. It's tight-fitting and sensitive, and feels like something you can use with the same accuracy as you can your toe.

The Drago XT also has a slightly more supportive feel courtesy of its twin straps, as opposed to single straps of the regular Drago. This development means that you can crank them even tighter when you need maximum precision, locking the heel and forefoot in tight, or loosen them off when you want a little more room. Whilst I never felt lacking for precision with the Drago, the Drago XT definitely gives you a few extra notches on the dial.

Penny: The Drago LV was one of my favourite ever shoes, so before I began using the Drago XT I was aware that it was going to take some beating; however, having used the Drago XT it is now my new favourite - and by far. I'd potentially go one step further to say that the Drago XT is my favourite ever climbing shoe, partly whilst smearing where it feels super solid where other shoes feel sketchy.

I've primarily used the Drago XT outdoors and due to the price, am planning to continue to do that, keeping them for when I want to perform at my best (although I recognise that for some people, in particular comp climbers, the opposite might be true). Comfort-wise they feel fantastic too, moulding really well to the shape of your foot due to how soft they are. They also retain their shape remarkably well, and don't seem to stretch so much that it has an effect on performance.

Fit

Xa: The Drago XT is the narrowest shoe in the Drago collection, but actually has a higher volume, largely to accommodate the way in which they're meant to be worn, with your heel cupped tight and your toes crimped up against the end.

As such, I went a half size smaller for the Drago XT than I did in the Drago, which has worked well for me. Compared to my actual shoe size I downsized 2.5 UK sizes from my street shoes, for an extra tight fit; but I'd recommend going and trying them on somewhere to see what works for you, as Penny found she needed to downsize much less than I did! I think if you were intending to use them mainly for padding up friction slabs - where you wouldn't need your toes to fit quite as snugly - then going 'like for like' with the Drago could be a good shout.

Penny: Unlike Xa, I actually went up a half EU size in the Drago XT compared to the Drago, which is subtle, but did feel right for me in terms of slightly better comfort. I probably could have gotten away with like-for-like, but these felt better - possibly because of the differences of width and volume. If you've never worn the Drago or Drago LV before, it's worth noting that I got a single UK size down from my street shoe size, for a good, snug fit without too much discomfort.

Features

The Drago XT features a 3.5mm Vibram XS Grip 2 sole, which runs a third of the way down the shoe. This is what gives the shoe such adaptability, because this - coupled with the horseshoe midsole - gives it such good balance, allowing you to smear and edge in equal measure.

At the back end, the heel is something truly unique, and Scarpa claim that it's 'the stickiest [compound] yet in a heel of a shoe' - which is quite a statement, but one that rings true in our experience. In fact, those little hexagons are so sticky that they'll even pick up little bits of debris as you walk around - so make sure you give your heels the occasional brush to keep them clean!

It's not just the stickiness that sets it apart though, it's also the sensitivity it offers. Whilst the 2mm of Vibram XS Grip 2 used here is more than you might find on most heels, the snug fit means that you get excellent feedback, and the fact that there aren't any gaps means that you've got complete coverage - hence you can slap it on anywhere and (at least in theory) something will grab.

Summary

Given that we were both fans of the Drago and Drago LV going into this review, it's a testament to just how good this shoe is that we're both now total converts to the XT. The heel is, without doubt, a stand-out feature, but so too is the addition of that second strap, which makes it much more versatile. Understandably it comes at a premium price, but given that it's 'only' £10 more than a standard Drago we know which one we'd be buying.