UKC

Logbook for Super-Afro

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Best Climbing Experience

The first desert tower I climbed in Moab what a day! It started when we got to the crux pitch off-width, it was my lead and we only had 1 size 4 Camelot on our rack (not a clever move). I didn't want to bail unless I had to so I set off up the climb shuffling the cam as I went. After 20ft the off-width crack started to widen to the point where my size 4 wouldn't fit anymore so without any other options I left the last piece of protection I had and continued the rest of the 110ft pitch. I can still feel my sweaty palms as I was desperately trying the lay back and chicken wing my way up the crack with sections of polished white calcite attached to the inside of the red sandstone crack and looking at a ridiculous wipper. After a lot of groaning, I finally made it to the top of the pitch with a sigh of relief and some Elvis Presley legs, and thankfully it was over or so I thought. The last squeeze chimney pitch was my partners lead to the top but after seconding the crux pitch he got so psyched out he bailed and asked me to lower him off. Anxiety started to kick in and I was seriously considering to bail the climb. After a few minutes of silence, I pulled all my mustard together and lead the final pitch. Getting to the top of that climb, I have never felt anything like it. Fear, anxiety the unknown, it all faded away and an overwhelming sense of joy filled me as i stood on the top. As I looked to the other side of the tower I saw what looked like an old army tin. I went over and opened it and inside was a book. As I started to read through the book I could see names of all the iconic climbers of our the area. After bringing my belay partners up I left it signed, in the footsteps of legends.

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150 entries in this logbook showing 1-25
Name Grade Style Partner(s) Notes Feedback Date Crag name
Rubicon 7a *** Lead O/S George 18 Oct, 2020 Water-cum-Jolly
Looning the Tube E1 5a *** Lead O/S   11 Jul, 2020 Australia
Last Tango in Paris E2 5b *** Lead O/S   11 Jul, 2020 Vivian Quarry
Comes the Dervish E3 5c *** Lead O/S   11 Jul, 2020 Vivian Quarry
Slug Club Special E5 6a ** Lead rpt   10 Jul, 2020 Serengeti
The Mau Mau E4 6a *** Lead O/S Matt Britz 10 Jul, 2020 Rainbow Slab Area
Tin Of 7b ** Lead G/U   27 Jun, 2020 Raven Tor (Miller's Dale)
A Little Extra 7a+ * Lead RP   27 Jun, 2020 Raven Tor (Miller's Dale)
Sly Stallone f6B+ ** Sent O/S   20 Jun, 2020 Newstones and Baldstones
Nutmeg Groove f6A ** Sent O/S   20 Jun, 2020 Newstones and Baldstones
Hammy f6A ** Sent O/S   20 Jun, 2020 Newstones and Baldstones
Rocky Variations 6b ** Lead O/S   20 Jun, 2020 Harpur Hill Quarry
Cairn 7a *** Lead O/S   20 Jun, 2020 Harpur Hill Quarry
Coral Seas 6a *** Lead O/S   20 Jun, 2020 Harpur Hill Quarry
The Sloth HVS 5a *** Lead rpt   13 Jun, 2020 Roaches Upper Tier
Stretch and Mantel f6C *** Sent β   13 Jun, 2020 Roaches Lower Tier
Stretch Left f6B * Sent rpt   13 Jun, 2020 Roaches Lower Tier
Classic Arête f5 ** Sent rpt   13 Jun, 2020 Roaches Lower Tier
Three Pocket Slab f6A *** Sent rpt   13 Jun, 2020 Roaches Lower Tier
Squeezy Slab f5+ ** Sent rpt   13 Jun, 2020 Roaches Lower Tier
The Price of Silence 6a ** Lead O/S Matt Britz 1 Jun, 2020 Battleship Back Cliff
A Dream of White Porsches 5c * Lead O/S Matt Britz 31 May, 2020 Battleship Back Cliff
Slings Shot 5a *** Lead O/S   31 May, 2020 Blacknor North
Pregnant Pause 6a+ *** Lead O/S   31 May, 2020 Blacknor Central
England's Dreaming 7a+ *** Lead G/U Matt Britz 31 May, 2020 Blacknor North
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