Peak District limestone, it's not all chossy quarries, honestly! And, it's not all overhanging crimp-fests either.
So for those climbers for whom a rest involves a sandwich and cup of tea, not just a slightly bigger hold, we have put together a selection of high quality trad routes, spanning the grades VDiff to E2, and all within a stone's throw of a cake shop.
Are you more in to breadsticks than clipsticks? Us too! Have you ticked all these routes? No? Us neither! But you can log your progress at getting these routes done using this UKC Logbook Ticklist: Classic Peak Limestone Trad.
Low Grade Gems
A fine little route with a couple of easy variations to the side of it.
A great rising diagonal line across a steep buttress - a great way to get to territory normally reserved for harder routes.
The left-hand side of High Crag at Wildcat gives slightly harder climbing than Lynx, with a superb stance at half-height.
Multi-pitch DelightsRavensdaleis an unlikley crag. Situated near Miller's Dale in an area better known for its intense fingery sport climbing, lies this surprising west-facing delight of mid-grade multi-pitch trad limestone.
4: Medusa, VS 4b
A little polished these days but the central line of the buttress is still a popular tick with fine climbing and one slippery crack.
5: Conclusor, HVS, 5a
Steady climbing up clean rock between the ivy. Possibly the best route at the crag!
ADVERTISEMENT: Scarpa Vapour XSG
High Tor below E1
This magnificent corner bounds the left-hand side of the main face at High Tor. It offers brilliant sustained climbing (with a fair amount of polish).
The companion corner left of Skylight gives a great route which is similar to its neighbour but a touch harder.
The third classic route below E1 at High Tor is the fine corner on the Main Face. One of the best routes of its kind in the country.
The following two routes are well known to many.
Worth seeking out. A fine line up this impressive face with a commiting and exposed moves on the second pitch providing the (photogenic) crux.
One of the steepest and most exposed routes of its grade in the Peak District. Breath-taking positions and fine climbing leading outwards above the void on huge holds for the most part. In combination with Aplomb it gives an E1 day out that will leave you dizzy from the exposure.
Not so much fun climbing as a must-do experience. The slippery start repels most attempts, get past this and you will probably make the top.
The finest route at Stoney Middleton tackling the central feature of its best buttress. Lots of fixed gear on this one, but take your wires to back it up and fill the gaps.
13/14/15: The High Tor D Routes
Was there ever a better trio than this? Three fine routes crossing the best face of limestone in England.
www.danlanephotography.com), Christian Fox, Neil Foster, Dave Foster for their photographs.
- JOBS: UKClimbing Ltd Full Stack Web Developer 3 May
- OPINION: Guidebooks should omit specific Sport Route Lengths 11 Apr
- DESTINATION GUIDE: Beginners' Pembroke 15 Mar
- REVIEW: Montane Icarus Jacket 1 Dec, 2017
- PRESS RELEASE: UKC, UKH and Rockfax at Kendal 16 Nov, 2017
- JOBS: UKClimbing Ltd Front End Web Developer 16 May, 2017
- PRESS RELEASE: Rockfax Makes Contribution to Sustainable Bolting on Mallorca 27 Feb, 2017
- REVIEW: Via Ferrata Sets from Climbing Technology 13 Sep, 2016
- REVIEW: Beal Booster III 9.7mm Unicore Single Rope 11 Jul, 2016
- Ken Wilson - Passionate Defender of British Climbing 13 Jun, 2016