The Dolomites - 5 Easy Route Recommendations

A contender for the most exposed severe anywhere in the world. © James Rushforth
A contender for the most exposed severe anywhere in the world.
© James Rushforth

The Dolomites have a somewhat fearsome reputation when it comes to trad climbing and when viewing the peaks with their characteristically steep faces it is easy to see why. There are however plenty of easy routes to go at in terms of technical difficulty, just bearing in mind that7 pitches is a relatively short route and many of the descents require multiple abseils.

Its always hard to put together a best of list, not only because it is so subjective but also because there are simply so many good routes to choose from.Nevertherless here arefive'recommended' routes of varying lengths that devolop at a relatively amenable grade. For general and logistical information see the Dolomites destination article.

Just remember to start small and early...


#1 - Sass Pordoi - Fedele (IV+) - 16 pitches intoDibona (IV+) - 8 pitches (24 pitches total)

Views of the Sella pass from the Fedele © Ralf Gantzhorn
Views of the Sella pass from the Fedele
© Ralf Gantzhorn

Fedele © James Rushforth
Fedele
© James Rushforth

The huge Northwest Face of Sass Pordoi is one of the largest and most impressive in the Dolomites. The dark and smooth-looking face is intimidating on first (and indeed subsequent) viewings; which makes it all the more amazing that the classic Fedele route goes at a relatively amenable IV+. The climb weaves its way along the edges of the large black water steak that dominates the central wall. This constant trickle of water has scrubbed the rock clean and sculpted a veritable jug ladder up the steep face. As you might expect, it is advisable to wait for a dry period to tackle this beautiful climb. The route crosses the black steak several times, most infamously on pitch 14, which is usually soaking at best and an impassable waterfall at worst. The terrace at three-quarters height provides a possible escape for those pressed for time.

For those up to the challenge the Dibona Upper Wall provides the logical continuation and is highly recommended. Combining the routes gives almost a kilometre of climbing up one of the most impressive faces of the Dolomites whilst never exceeding upper grade IV.

#2- Sas Ciampac - Adang/Old South Face (V-) -11 pitches

Superb positions on Via Adang © James Rushforth
Superb positions on Via Adang
© James Rushforth
Adang / Old South Face © James Rushforth
Adang / Old South Face
© James Rushforth

The impressive and sunny south face of Sas Ciampac is a familiar sight to anyone descending the Gardena Pass towards Corvara. Situated just west of the elegant Sassongher, and rising out of beautiful flower meadows, the location is nothing short of idyllic. The Adang/Old South Face follows a huge rightwards trending black slab before taking a series of chimneys up to the panoramic summit plateau. The climbing is superb throughout with no polish and good clean rock, albeit with slightly difficult route finding up the initial slabs. The hour long walk in ensures solitude is usually the norm and the views over to the Sella are excellent. Finally the descent is uncomplicated, following the very scenic path 2 towards Passo di Crespina and then down to Jimmy's Hutte for a well deserved beer.

#3 - Torre Delago -Piaz Arete/Delagokante (IV+) - 6 pitches

Looking down the Piaz Arete © Andreas Bengtsson
Looking down the Piaz Arete
© Andreas Bengtsson

Piaz Arete/Delagokante © James Rushforth
Piaz Arete/Delagokante
© James Rushforth

The Vajolet Towers have long symbolised the Catinaccio (Rosengarten) group and viewed from Rifugio Re Alberto (Gartlhtte) the trio of towers are an impressive sight. However the true cause for their fame becomes immediately apparent when first stepping on to the arete of the classic Piaz Arete/Delagokante. The ground suddenly plunges down some 500m to the valley bottom creating some of the best exposure found anywhere in the world at the grade. Despite the queues and the polish, there is no doubt that this route deserves its acclaim, with fantastic positions and breathtaking exposure at an accessible grade.

Torre Delago was also used in the now infamous opening scene of Sylvester Stallone's 'Cliffhanger'.

#4 - Tre Cime -Cima Grande - DibonaArete(IV+) - 13 pitches

Nearing the top of Cima Grande © Frédéric Dorn
Nearing the top of Cima Grande
© Frédéric Dorn

Dibona Arete © James Rushforth
Dibona Arete
© James Rushforth

Cima Grande is the largest of the three towers that make up the icon Tre Cime group, and its north side makes up one of the prestigious six classic north faces of the Alps. This popular climbprovides one of the easiest routesto the summit of Cima Grande which is a much sought aftertick for many. Route finding is difficult and there is certainly a degreeof 'following your nose' as there areso many possible lines. This only serves to heighten the sense of adventure however, which is ultimately what aroute of this nature isall about.

It is usual to join onto the Normal Route from the ringband terrace to reach the summit, an experience which definentelyshouldn't be shunned due to the spectacular views from the top.

#5-Sass de Stria/Hexenstein - South Arete (IV+) - 8 pitches

Looking down onto the Valparola and Falzarego passes © Mark Houston
Looking down onto the Valparola and Falzarego passes
© Mark Houston

South Arete © James Rushforth
South Arete
© James Rushforth

Sass de Stria or the witches rock is an iconic peak located at the junction of the Falzarego and Valparola Passes, its dominating stand-alone position compensating for its relatively low altitude. The prominent South Arete provides a deservedly popular route of modest length that is the perfect introduction to Dolomite trad. The rock is mainly solid and, although not always logical, the route is varied and enjoyable. There are cemented belays throughout, but scant fixed gear en-route so take a decent rack. The hardest bit comes at the end and can be avoided to the right if you'refeeling unsure, though you should give it a crack as its probably the best pitch. The descent is once again uncomplicated following a protected path through World War One trenches back down to the Valparola pass.

Related UKC Articles:

Climbing the Comici by James Rushforth
The Brandler Hasse by Jack Geldard
Dolomites FAQ by Chris the Tall
Dolomites - Ice, Mixed and Drytooling by James Rushforth
ROCKFAX - Dolomites : Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata Reviewed by Tom Ripley


James Rushforth © James Rushforth

JamesRushforth has just completed the new Rockfax guide - The Dolomites : Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata and is currently working on another guide toItalian sport-climbing destination Finale Ligure.

James Rushforth is a professional photographer and you can see his portfolio on Smugmug, and follow him at JamesRushforth.com


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5 May, 2015
What a great article. Love nice long easy routes and am definitely inspired by some of these. Does anyone know if the ledge on Fedele is flat enough to bivvy with a small tent?
5 May, 2015
If by the ledge you mean the terrace, its about as wide as a football pitch ! Basically a gentle scree slope. I'm sure you could find somewhere to pitch but much better to aim to get the last cable car down and get some beers in :-)
5 May, 2015
It's a pretty large ledge and offers an out at 2/3's height as you can walk off to the right and exit back to Passo Pordoi. However, I would suggest it's better to go fast, light and make it to the top. There is a hut not far from the summit which is excellent and not too expensive. The guardian is very sympathetic to climbers... There is a slightly easier route to the right - the Dibona which is by all accounts not as good as the Fedele but runs the same course at the top.
5 May, 2015
ha, yeah terrace not ledge! planning on going heavy and slow. take it all in really. The missus loves climbing, and has been up to about 6 pitches before and climbs about VS or 6a. but has expressed interest in camping out on a climb. I know this isn't exactly extreme portaledging, and quite contrived, but would make for an interesting 2 day climb for someone who's not that speedy.
5 May, 2015
Obviously check the weather forecast ! Its really not somewhere you want to be if an afternoon thunderstorm hits.
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