UKC

Scarpa Boostic R - The Ultimate Supportive Performance Shoe? Review

© UKC Gear

Its high level of stiffness may not be for everyone, or every occasion, but the Boostic R's unmatched edging support makes it perhaps Rob Greenwood's all-time favourite performance shoe for hard trad and sport climbing.


Back in 2021 Scarpa released a new version of the Boostic. Whilst it was a lovely shoe, it was far from a direct replacement to the original, as it sought to balance the scales towards sensitivity, and away from the outright stiffness and support of its predecessor. This of course had pros and cons, and made the shoe quite a different proposition. Fast forward to 2025 and Scarpa have released the true heir to the original - the Boostic R. Whilst cosmetically it's been given a facelift, this shoe's DNA returns to the feel for which the original was known. Its stiffness and support may not be for everyone, but the Boostic R really is 'the edging machine' and potentially my favourite performance trad/sport shoe of all-time…

In Use

Let's get something straight before we go any further: this is an unashamedly specialist shoe, focussed on outright performance and edging power. If you're after something soft for indoors or bouldering, or a shoe that's forgiving and comfortable to knock about in, then look elsewhere. 

The Boostic R is aimed specifically at hard trad and sport climbing, where you're going to have your weight through your feet, pressing down on the smallest of holds. It excels in the vertical environment as a result of its robust construction, which offers the utmost support; however, it's not just the support it provides that makes it stand out - it's the power you're able to place through the toe. 

Over the years I used the original Boostic redpointing many of my hardest sport climbs at Malham, Kilnsey, Raven Tor and the Cornice(s). UK sport climbing is, more often than not, at the vertical or gently overhanging end of the spectrum, which is where the Boostic excel. I've also used the predecessors on many of my hardest onsights too, because on an onsight ascent you tend to spend a lot of time teetering around on your feet working out what to do next, and if your shoes are too soft then you've got to work a whole lot harder to stay on the rock. Again, most UK trad is either slabby, vertical or gently overhanging, which is - once again - where the Boostic excels.

Now although this is a glowing review, the stiffness that I'm so in favour of for the above uses would prove a clear disadvantage in other settings, and the first - perhaps obvious - caveat is that this simply isn't a shoe for smearing in. Whilst it may soften a little, it doesn't soften a lot, and if that's what you're after then maybe try the Blue Boostic, or the Instinct instead. Secondly, whilst there may be applications for it on very specific boulder problems, this isn't a shoe I foresee myself using anywhere near as much for bouldering more generally. 

Using the original Boostics on Unleashing the Wild Physique (8a), The Cornice  © Ramon Marin
Using the original Boostics on Unleashing the Wild Physique (8a), The Cornice
© Ramon Marin

Using the original Boostics on Scarab (E6 6b), Stoney Middleton  © Penny Orr
Using the original Boostics on Scarab (E6 6b), Stoney Middleton
© Penny Orr

Fit

The Boostic R is designed to fit with your toes knuckled right up against the end, which is how it drives so much power through your toes. If your feet are flat within the shoe, it simply won't work, so be sure to fit it accordingly. In light of this requirement it's quite high volume, as you need to make sure your toes are bunched. It's also quite radically asymmetrical, and whilst the Scarpa website describes it as narrow, we'd probably say it's at the medium to wide end of the spectrum.

In spite of its radical shape I've always been lucky in terms of how they fit, finding them remarkably comfortable. A major part of this is a result of the level of the support they offer, because my feet don't get anywhere near as tired in these as they do when wearing a soft shoe, where I'm going to really have to work to keep the pressure on; in the Boostic, it's the shoe that's doing a lot of the hard work.

When it comes to sizing, I've generally gone down a single UK shoe size in order to get a good, technical fit. In use, the Boostic does give a little, but not a lot. It definitely becomes comfier in use, but never loses its level of support due to how well constructed it is. 

Features

The Boostic R features a full length 4mm Vibram XS Edge outsole, coupled with a full length 1.4mm midsole, which - when combined - offer a lot of support. When you then add the rest of its construction into the mix, which features both microfibre and suede, then the twin strap closure, you've got yourself a seriously solid shoe. 

The Boostic R in use on Deep Vein Thrombosis (7a), Deep Rake  © UKC Gear
The Boostic R in use on Deep Vein Thrombosis (7a), Deep Rake
© UKC Gear

Summary

The Boostic R is the true successor to the original Boostic and is without doubt the best supportive performance shoe that's out there as far as trad and sport climbing are concerned. The only caveat is whether or not it fits you personally, and as ever there is no substitute for going to a shop to try it fr yourself.


For more information scarpa.co.uk



27 Mar

Didn't realise you could size down XXX sizes... :D

Oops, I meant to update that before it went live

I went down a single UK shoe size (and the article has been updated accordingly). You could go down 1.5 sizes if you were after a super technical fit, but obvioulsy that would have a knock-on effect to comfort, and I was probably after a bit more of a balance (i.e. snug, but not crippling).

27 Mar

No worries thought I'd point it out!

For my 2p's worth I find measuring the sole length helps me guide size. The Instinct 41 is the same as the Boostic OG 42, very similar fit for me in terms of performance. I wear 42 in TX4's, Mescalito's & Gecko's in approach shoes!

28 Mar

Is Deep Rake now the official UK shoe testing venue? No wonder so many of the routes now seem more polished.

28 Mar

Scarpa's Miura VS?

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