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Welcome to the opening week of Challenge 555. Let me know if I have incorrectly listed your goals! If you didn’t add a goal last week, it’s not too late, just let me know.
Challenge 555 goals (November 5th)
=============================
biscuit: get fingerboard up (x), down to 12% body fat (x)
AlanLittle: redpoint 7b on Kalymnos (x)
AJM: Force Majeure or other fb7 (x) Do some DWS (x) An E2 or E3 (x) Steady Training for trip (x)
The sheep: sub-2 hour half marathon (x) weight below 15 stone (x)
Just Tintin: Lead E4 route (x) Complete Morocco tick list (x) Boulder 7A/7A+ (x) WFD (x) Lose a couple of kg and 'tone up' a bit (x) Run a successful WCS (x)
Dandan82: Nina Mala in one hang (x) Another 8a route (x) 3 x 7c/+ (x)
MrChewy: First 7a (x)
Ally Smith: 2 of your Autumn ticklist (I can list routes here if you prefer).
guy127917: 5s video of handstand (x) indoor v6 (x) -5kg one arm 5s hang on BM1000 edge (x) First 7a+ (x)
annak: hill fit for the alps (x)
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=670177
hms: Hope you started feeling better through the week? Did you find a yoga replacement?
Just Tintin: Congrats on the tick, and good call on the 555 goals thing!
biscuit: Ooh did you get on anything scary this weekend?
AlanLittle: An excellent 9 step breakdown of how you are going to crush!
AJM: Pembroke in the sunshine is amazing isn’t it! Turns out the rock fax guide isn’t really sufficient though, especially when firing started up on Tuesday.
the sheep: Congrats on doing the half!
Dandan: Excellent trip report, thanks. Given that you ticked a couple of 7c’s second go- how far away from 8a/+ being a reasonable in-a-day prospect do you feel?
mrchewy: if there were more mountains in the UK I would share your sentiments on single pitch trad! 7a should be doable if you get specific and methodical with the right route and work it out.
Ally Smith: aha so Mecca the route, not the metaphor!
hokkyo: Sorry to hear about your son’s accident. Remember you have done a good amount of volume so far this year so try not to worry too much about taking time out in the run up to Budapest.
guy127917: Don’t binge eat
mattrm: I went up to Navigation quarry in the week based on your recommendation a while back- it’s a great spot we would never have tried before so thanks for that!
annak: Welcome back! When you stop doing interesting stuff is when you need to check in more than ever…
Tyler: Nice to hear that you felt inspired getting out in the hills. Wales can be pretty incredible.
AWOL: TheFasting
Post edited at 08:43
2
In reply to guy127917:
I've got loads of Pembroke guides now, but the definitives where I got them or Wired guide are probably my staples now. Amazing place, yeah!
A week which went completely different from my expectations. I'd originally planned for some sensible midweek training, then Fri/Sat in Devon including some DWS, then Sunday helping out on the Dorset Bolt Fund bolting day at Battleship.
As it happened, we all got ill midweek so I didn't get any training in. So one 555 goal with no progress this week. And the dbf day was yesterday not today due to the weather.
However, I got out DWS-ing on Friday My beloved better half decided she fancied getting some fresh air, so we all went to lulworth and they went for a walk and sat on the beach and things whilst I did some soloing. Perfect conditions - gentle northerly through the cave to freshen the holds up, neap-ish tide so very little range and essentially flat water so no swell.
- lengthy warmup/playtime repeating a bunch of the usual easier classics - The Maypole (HVS 5b), Last Season's Loozas (HVS 5b), Captain Bastard Got There First (E2 5c), and The Laws Traverse (E1 6a).
- went over to the east cave with some guys from Reading who had turned up, and in good conditions without the slime fired off Horny Lil' Devil (7a) first go. Amazing route. Everyone should do it.
- then some attempts on other stuff. I got my feet soaked trying to get into Window of Opportunity (E5 6b) so didn't actually try that. Had a fairly token go at Gates of Greyskull (7b+), bottled it low down (it's actually safer higher up as there's a ledge near the base, I jumped from probably the last iffy move), jumped off to clear the head.
- rounded off with some swimming. There was also ice cream and fish and chips.
Yesterday I went and helped the Dorset Bolt Fund do over Battleship. Lots of hard work. Lugged a ton of kit around, multiple trips up and down the crag to move rigging ropes and all that sort of thing, lots of logistics. I also managed to get up on a rope and drilled/cleaned 2 lines and glued/bolted one of those. Very sore from the harness by the end of that and in general pretty achey today, hence the early post. Good workout!
Lots of work done - a lot of routes done and a really good path created under a lot of the crag too to make access easier. Pictures on your choice of social media. Please think about getting involved or donating to support your own local Bolt funds.
So yeah, progress on the 555 goals and 2 good days outside. Hopefully this week I'll actually do some training, but outdoor time might be limited as we have a wedding this weekend near Oxford which is unlikely to work with fitting climbing around it.
> AJM: Force Majeure or other fb7 (x) Do some DWS (x) An E2 or E3 (x) Steady Training for trip (x)
> AJM: Pembroke in the sunshine is amazing isn’t it! Turns out the rock fax guide isn’t really sufficient though, especially when firing started up on Tuesday.
I've got loads of Pembroke guides now, but the definitives where I got them or Wired guide are probably my staples now. Amazing place, yeah!
A week which went completely different from my expectations. I'd originally planned for some sensible midweek training, then Fri/Sat in Devon including some DWS, then Sunday helping out on the Dorset Bolt Fund bolting day at Battleship.
As it happened, we all got ill midweek so I didn't get any training in. So one 555 goal with no progress this week. And the dbf day was yesterday not today due to the weather.
However, I got out DWS-ing on Friday My beloved better half decided she fancied getting some fresh air, so we all went to lulworth and they went for a walk and sat on the beach and things whilst I did some soloing. Perfect conditions - gentle northerly through the cave to freshen the holds up, neap-ish tide so very little range and essentially flat water so no swell.
- lengthy warmup/playtime repeating a bunch of the usual easier classics - The Maypole (HVS 5b), Last Season's Loozas (HVS 5b), Captain Bastard Got There First (E2 5c), and The Laws Traverse (E1 6a).
- went over to the east cave with some guys from Reading who had turned up, and in good conditions without the slime fired off Horny Lil' Devil (7a) first go. Amazing route. Everyone should do it.
- then some attempts on other stuff. I got my feet soaked trying to get into Window of Opportunity (E5 6b) so didn't actually try that. Had a fairly token go at Gates of Greyskull (7b+), bottled it low down (it's actually safer higher up as there's a ledge near the base, I jumped from probably the last iffy move), jumped off to clear the head.
- rounded off with some swimming. There was also ice cream and fish and chips.
Yesterday I went and helped the Dorset Bolt Fund do over Battleship. Lots of hard work. Lugged a ton of kit around, multiple trips up and down the crag to move rigging ropes and all that sort of thing, lots of logistics. I also managed to get up on a rope and drilled/cleaned 2 lines and glued/bolted one of those. Very sore from the harness by the end of that and in general pretty achey today, hence the early post. Good workout!
Lots of work done - a lot of routes done and a really good path created under a lot of the crag too to make access easier. Pictures on your choice of social media. Please think about getting involved or donating to support your own local Bolt funds.
So yeah, progress on the 555 goals and 2 good days outside. Hopefully this week I'll actually do some training, but outdoor time might be limited as we have a wedding this weekend near Oxford which is unlikely to work with fitting climbing around it.
5
In reply to guy127917:
Monday: Square Bay and Initiation Slabs pretty much just pottering around
Tuesday: 4 lovely VS routes at Mowing Word
Wednesday: Mother Carey’s- was going to have a go at Rock Idol but bottled it during the ab in (it’s steep!) and decided to do Joyous Gard (HVS). Good decision- JG was an amazing route that I needed to concentrate on. It was just the right amount of difficult for me right now.
Thursday: Navigation Quarry, went to try Western Front Direct (7a). I went bolt to bolt to work it out, then sent it first go- excellent route. 4 other routes up to 6c O/S.
Friday: 4 mile run (first since June, fun/pain!)
Saturday: Bouldering, started work on three v6 routes, one plausible but tip shredding, one requires some sort of balance I don’t have, the other… confusing. Did a bit of handstand practice.
Sunday: Boxing class (hard work!), I will do 1 set of BM1000 5c workout later as well to get back into fb routine
Sending WFD completes my MTG of 3 UK 7a routes (5 total), and now I actually consider myself ‘a 7a climber’. I feel big progress since this time last year in the technique and head game departments (mostly thanks to doing a lot of climbing- double the number of climbs this year than last already) and finger strength (thanks to a lot of hours on the fingerboard in the spring). I have a couple of 7a routes at Portland worked out which I should be able to finish off as well.
Spending this week bimbling in Pembroke has really got me fired up and ready to train again- this marks the start of “project 7a+”! I need to go out and get on a couple of routes this weekend and see where I’m at. High grades have scared me off even trying so far, I’ve basically only been on one in Spain by accident, and one 7b at Portland.
Jen and I have yet to finalise plans, but I should get 2 weeks in Spain or similar at the end of November. So I have 10 weeks to train. I haven’t finalised the plan yet, but thoughts are mainly focus on finger strength/bouldering (hence v6 and max hang 555 goals). I haven’t failed to RP a route due to fitness yet- I normally get shut down by the moves. Biggest concern is a persistent bit of golfers elbow- I’m twisting a theraband daily and increasing warmup length to try and deal with it.
Down to 78.9kg today which I’m pleased about. I didn’t control diet at all whilst away, and was about 80.9kg when I got back. The difference must just be water retention/bloat from easting a lot of simple carbs. Cutting that stuff out really seems to help me mentally and physically, if I can just get the energy levels right for training and avoid binge eating!
This week:
* 1 bouldering session, 1 max hangs, 1 routes
* Circuits on wednesday and 2 slow runs (upping the volume)
* Get to Portland fri/sat/sun and get on something hard (for me)
* Stick with the diet, keeping record of timing re: energy levels mon-thurs (will probably add carbs back at the weekend on climbing days)
Monday: Square Bay and Initiation Slabs pretty much just pottering around
Tuesday: 4 lovely VS routes at Mowing Word
Wednesday: Mother Carey’s- was going to have a go at Rock Idol but bottled it during the ab in (it’s steep!) and decided to do Joyous Gard (HVS). Good decision- JG was an amazing route that I needed to concentrate on. It was just the right amount of difficult for me right now.
Thursday: Navigation Quarry, went to try Western Front Direct (7a). I went bolt to bolt to work it out, then sent it first go- excellent route. 4 other routes up to 6c O/S.
Friday: 4 mile run (first since June, fun/pain!)
Saturday: Bouldering, started work on three v6 routes, one plausible but tip shredding, one requires some sort of balance I don’t have, the other… confusing. Did a bit of handstand practice.
Sunday: Boxing class (hard work!), I will do 1 set of BM1000 5c workout later as well to get back into fb routine
Sending WFD completes my MTG of 3 UK 7a routes (5 total), and now I actually consider myself ‘a 7a climber’. I feel big progress since this time last year in the technique and head game departments (mostly thanks to doing a lot of climbing- double the number of climbs this year than last already) and finger strength (thanks to a lot of hours on the fingerboard in the spring). I have a couple of 7a routes at Portland worked out which I should be able to finish off as well.
Spending this week bimbling in Pembroke has really got me fired up and ready to train again- this marks the start of “project 7a+”! I need to go out and get on a couple of routes this weekend and see where I’m at. High grades have scared me off even trying so far, I’ve basically only been on one in Spain by accident, and one 7b at Portland.
Jen and I have yet to finalise plans, but I should get 2 weeks in Spain or similar at the end of November. So I have 10 weeks to train. I haven’t finalised the plan yet, but thoughts are mainly focus on finger strength/bouldering (hence v6 and max hang 555 goals). I haven’t failed to RP a route due to fitness yet- I normally get shut down by the moves. Biggest concern is a persistent bit of golfers elbow- I’m twisting a theraband daily and increasing warmup length to try and deal with it.
Down to 78.9kg today which I’m pleased about. I didn’t control diet at all whilst away, and was about 80.9kg when I got back. The difference must just be water retention/bloat from easting a lot of simple carbs. Cutting that stuff out really seems to help me mentally and physically, if I can just get the energy levels right for training and avoid binge eating!
This week:
* 1 bouldering session, 1 max hangs, 1 routes
* Circuits on wednesday and 2 slow runs (upping the volume)
* Get to Portland fri/sat/sun and get on something hard (for me)
* Stick with the diet, keeping record of timing re: energy levels mon-thurs (will probably add carbs back at the weekend on climbing days)
Post edited at 11:37
2
In reply to guy127917:
Guy, by the Bm1k edge (your 555 goal) do you mean the ones that are basically a Lattice benchmark edge? I'm assuming so, in part because I seem to remember from your fingerboard spreadsheet that you've got quite strong fingers (I may be about to repeat an old discussion here!).
If that is the case, then I'm not sure the goals and training you're laying out stack up to me. Text is obviously a difficult medium, so please take this as constructive observation rather than criticism!
If you can or stand a chance of doing a 5-sec hang at -5kg on a Lattice-equivalent edge, then you're stronger than me. Both in absolute terms and as a percentage of bodyweight. From Lattice's recent FB q&a, 92% of bodyweight is in the 8b region (and V9/10).
If you are that strong in the fingers but also have V6 and 7a+ as equivalent goals, that leads me to suggest a few things:
- its unlikely to be finger strength thats stopping you from doing the moves on either of those grades. Not reading the moves, or tactics, or very different holds (unlikely given portland is basically crimps) perhaps, but it doesn't feel like finger strength is the limiting factor. Unless you have time (or alternatively, don't have the time to do anything else) it may be worth trying to work out what those things are and prioritising those instead.
- if V6 and 7a+ are equivalent difficulty goals, then I would say put the time into fitness rather than strength prior to November. You won't find a V6 crux on anything but very bouldery spanish routes until you hit mid(/high?)-7s at the very minimum; conversely if you can ally V6 strength with a bit of fitness training the exchange rate on that at the crag should be >7a+.
Guy, by the Bm1k edge (your 555 goal) do you mean the ones that are basically a Lattice benchmark edge? I'm assuming so, in part because I seem to remember from your fingerboard spreadsheet that you've got quite strong fingers (I may be about to repeat an old discussion here!).
If that is the case, then I'm not sure the goals and training you're laying out stack up to me. Text is obviously a difficult medium, so please take this as constructive observation rather than criticism!
If you can or stand a chance of doing a 5-sec hang at -5kg on a Lattice-equivalent edge, then you're stronger than me. Both in absolute terms and as a percentage of bodyweight. From Lattice's recent FB q&a, 92% of bodyweight is in the 8b region (and V9/10).
If you are that strong in the fingers but also have V6 and 7a+ as equivalent goals, that leads me to suggest a few things:
- its unlikely to be finger strength thats stopping you from doing the moves on either of those grades. Not reading the moves, or tactics, or very different holds (unlikely given portland is basically crimps) perhaps, but it doesn't feel like finger strength is the limiting factor. Unless you have time (or alternatively, don't have the time to do anything else) it may be worth trying to work out what those things are and prioritising those instead.
- if V6 and 7a+ are equivalent difficulty goals, then I would say put the time into fitness rather than strength prior to November. You won't find a V6 crux on anything but very bouldery spanish routes until you hit mid(/high?)-7s at the very minimum; conversely if you can ally V6 strength with a bit of fitness training the exchange rate on that at the crag should be >7a+.
2
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for the comments. Yes, you have found a flaw in my goal... I just consulted my previous spreadsheet and what I think I meant was get down to -5kg on the 33mm hold (it's been a while). However my home board is a 1000, so I don't have a 33mm hold, and generally would prefer to benchmark on the 18mm edge anyway.
I was at -20kg for a 5s hang (just) which was 75.9% BW, I reckon I could realistically aim for 80-85% in 10 weeks (?) which adjusting for reduced weight is a goal of -12kg. Sound more realistic? That's still 0.8kg improvement a week, so maybe not!! I need to rebenchmark this week to know where I'm starting from- I expect my max to have dropped off a bit over the last two months.
I think you are almost definitely correct that technique, beta and approach will go a long way to unlocking harder routes- I simply haven't tried many (only been on 2 routes harder than 7a) so don't really know. I guess the only thing I can do is get out and try hard, and maybe work with a coach. Maybe if some SW fitclub wads want to shout beta at me on an impossible sheet of glass sometime then we can arrange that!
On the v6/7a+ thing: firstly I have serious doubts that v6 at The Castle is anything akin to outdoor v6. It's just the next grade there for me. This goal is about pushing myself to really work on hard moves and things which are going to need sustained (weeks) of effort. I've not really projected many boulder problems like that and want to really get into the grit of it. This is strongly influenced by Neil Gresham's recent interview on Training Beta.
I think you may be technically correct to say I should develop fitness over finger strength for that grade, but until I actually feel what it is like to clearly fail on a climb because of fitness not strength it's hard to summon the motivation to develop it. Also 7a+ is not my ultimate goal- I'm going to need more strength whatever so I may as well keep piling it on. As Neil Gresham/others say, more strength is going to mean you are working at lower capacity and so will have more endurance as well.
Maybe I should do some research into the more endurance-y 7a+ routes at Portland....
Thanks for the comments. Yes, you have found a flaw in my goal... I just consulted my previous spreadsheet and what I think I meant was get down to -5kg on the 33mm hold (it's been a while). However my home board is a 1000, so I don't have a 33mm hold, and generally would prefer to benchmark on the 18mm edge anyway.
I was at -20kg for a 5s hang (just) which was 75.9% BW, I reckon I could realistically aim for 80-85% in 10 weeks (?) which adjusting for reduced weight is a goal of -12kg. Sound more realistic? That's still 0.8kg improvement a week, so maybe not!! I need to rebenchmark this week to know where I'm starting from- I expect my max to have dropped off a bit over the last two months.
I think you are almost definitely correct that technique, beta and approach will go a long way to unlocking harder routes- I simply haven't tried many (only been on 2 routes harder than 7a) so don't really know. I guess the only thing I can do is get out and try hard, and maybe work with a coach. Maybe if some SW fitclub wads want to shout beta at me on an impossible sheet of glass sometime then we can arrange that!
On the v6/7a+ thing: firstly I have serious doubts that v6 at The Castle is anything akin to outdoor v6. It's just the next grade there for me. This goal is about pushing myself to really work on hard moves and things which are going to need sustained (weeks) of effort. I've not really projected many boulder problems like that and want to really get into the grit of it. This is strongly influenced by Neil Gresham's recent interview on Training Beta.
I think you may be technically correct to say I should develop fitness over finger strength for that grade, but until I actually feel what it is like to clearly fail on a climb because of fitness not strength it's hard to summon the motivation to develop it. Also 7a+ is not my ultimate goal- I'm going to need more strength whatever so I may as well keep piling it on. As Neil Gresham/others say, more strength is going to mean you are working at lower capacity and so will have more endurance as well.
Maybe I should do some research into the more endurance-y 7a+ routes at Portland....
In reply to guy127917:
That sounds a bit more balanced (fwiw, my best efforts have been just shy of 67kg pulled which has generally been about -7-8kg)
I can't go anywhere terribly child-unfriendly but I'm off work on Friday childminding so might be able to pop by although I've not actually done that many 7a+s on Portland so might not actually be that useful to you.
You mention the feeling of failing due to (lack of) fitness - I think suitable route selection in Spain should teach you that! Do you know yet where you are going?
That sounds a bit more balanced (fwiw, my best efforts have been just shy of 67kg pulled which has generally been about -7-8kg)
I can't go anywhere terribly child-unfriendly but I'm off work on Friday childminding so might be able to pop by although I've not actually done that many 7a+s on Portland so might not actually be that useful to you.
You mention the feeling of failing due to (lack of) fitness - I think suitable route selection in Spain should teach you that! Do you know yet where you are going?
In reply to AJM:
No, it's up for debate. I'd be happy to go back to costa Blanca for round 3, but I think Jen wants to go somewhere new. You have suggestions for somewhere nice with plenty of punterish routes?
No, it's up for debate. I'd be happy to go back to costa Blanca for round 3, but I think Jen wants to go somewhere new. You have suggestions for somewhere nice with plenty of punterish routes?
In reply to guy127917:
Siurana/Montsant/Margalef perhaps in Spain. Good variety of styles/etc and good grade spread.
Not the place to push your grade, but Buoux (plus Orgon, St Remy etc) might be another option for a good grade spread and really good climbing. Chateauvert is an excellent crag but maybe for a week of a split fortnight rather than an entire fortnight? Or perhaps around Buis - Malaucene, Combe Obscure, that sort of stuff...?
Siurana/Montsant/Margalef perhaps in Spain. Good variety of styles/etc and good grade spread.
Not the place to push your grade, but Buoux (plus Orgon, St Remy etc) might be another option for a good grade spread and really good climbing. Chateauvert is an excellent crag but maybe for a week of a split fortnight rather than an entire fortnight? Or perhaps around Buis - Malaucene, Combe Obscure, that sort of stuff...?
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy, correct 555 goal for me.
STG: book flights for Kalymnos DONE
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Bike one hour.
Shoulder & elbow p/rehab exercises
T: Max hangs & shoulder mobility
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Harder power endurance work from now till Kalymnos. Three easy warm ups, three goes on a steep 7a, then a final no-takes go until falling burn on a mindless 6b+ crimp ladder when already powered out from the 7a attempts - this last being a tip from Mr Kettle for how to end a power endurance session. All on routes that are overhanging & long by wall standards - 15 to 20 metres.
T: Bike one hour.
F: Boulderwelt. Did four of the new 6B/C circuit, including one flash. Four of these in a session is better than I normally do (could just mean that the current set is soft though)
Rounded off with a few sets of max hangs and shoulder & elbow work.
S:
S: Wall, Weyarn. Routes. Twelve pitches including my first ever success uphill on a plastic 6c+, i.e. a route not a circuit. Third go - would have got it second go if not for a silly foot slip. Pity the weather was too bad to get out on rock, but at least it was a good weekend for plastic achievements.
FC555 goal: redpoint 7b on Kalymnos.
1. Book flight. DONE - 20th October to 6th November.
2. Ask Fit Club for recommendations for achievable 7b's. DONE - thanks AJM. Any more for any more?
3. Buy guidebook
4. Train like mad, focus on power endurance IN PROGRESS
5. Falling practice on steep ground IN PROGRESS
6. Hopefully get some decent rock mileage & a tick or two in the 7a-ish range before travelling RAIN STOPPED PLAY
7. Cease training like mad a week or so beforehand.
8. Go
9. Crush
Thanks Guy, correct 555 goal for me.
STG: book flights for Kalymnos DONE
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Bike one hour.
Shoulder & elbow p/rehab exercises
T: Max hangs & shoulder mobility
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Harder power endurance work from now till Kalymnos. Three easy warm ups, three goes on a steep 7a, then a final no-takes go until falling burn on a mindless 6b+ crimp ladder when already powered out from the 7a attempts - this last being a tip from Mr Kettle for how to end a power endurance session. All on routes that are overhanging & long by wall standards - 15 to 20 metres.
T: Bike one hour.
F: Boulderwelt. Did four of the new 6B/C circuit, including one flash. Four of these in a session is better than I normally do (could just mean that the current set is soft though)
Rounded off with a few sets of max hangs and shoulder & elbow work.
S:
S: Wall, Weyarn. Routes. Twelve pitches including my first ever success uphill on a plastic 6c+, i.e. a route not a circuit. Third go - would have got it second go if not for a silly foot slip. Pity the weather was too bad to get out on rock, but at least it was a good weekend for plastic achievements.
FC555 goal: redpoint 7b on Kalymnos.
1. Book flight. DONE - 20th October to 6th November.
2. Ask Fit Club for recommendations for achievable 7b's. DONE - thanks AJM. Any more for any more?
3. Buy guidebook
4. Train like mad, focus on power endurance IN PROGRESS
5. Falling practice on steep ground IN PROGRESS
6. Hopefully get some decent rock mileage & a tick or two in the 7a-ish range before travelling RAIN STOPPED PLAY
7. Cease training like mad a week or so beforehand.
8. Go
9. Crush
1
In reply to guy127917:
I just started to bore myself with my updates! But you're right, this is when the motivation is even more important.
M: cycle 20km
T - F: away at a conference and also a bit ill, so took the opportunity to rest and eat and get better
Sa: hiked up my nearest hill, 1:43 to the top
Su: did 1000' box step test, 49mins which is fairly crap, 4mins slower than my previous (also rubbish) time in January but I've really not done any hill training all summer (just been cragging) . I can only get better from here right?
I just started to bore myself with my updates! But you're right, this is when the motivation is even more important.
M: cycle 20km
T - F: away at a conference and also a bit ill, so took the opportunity to rest and eat and get better
Sa: hiked up my nearest hill, 1:43 to the top
Su: did 1000' box step test, 49mins which is fairly crap, 4mins slower than my previous (also rubbish) time in January but I've really not done any hill training all summer (just been cragging) . I can only get better from here right?
In reply to AJM:
Cool. I hope we get to meet up. I'll be on my own for the first few days, got some mates arriving later. Planning to make use of the climbkalymnos partners forum.
Cool. I hope we get to meet up. I'll be on my own for the first few days, got some mates arriving later. Planning to make use of the climbkalymnos partners forum.
In reply to guy127917:
It's probably the best 7a in the South Wales Sandstone area, so I'm not surprised you liked it. Glad that you enjoyed Navigation, it really is a little gem. If you enjoyed Navigation and want to do more sandstone, I'd recommend Tirpentwys and Sirhowy (called Sirhowy by locals), with the latter being good for routes in the 7s.
> Thursday: Navigation Quarry, went to try Western Front Direct (7a). I went bolt to bolt to work it out, then sent it first go- excellent route. 4 other routes up to 6c O/S.
It's probably the best 7a in the South Wales Sandstone area, so I'm not surprised you liked it. Glad that you enjoyed Navigation, it really is a little gem. If you enjoyed Navigation and want to do more sandstone, I'd recommend Tirpentwys and Sirhowy (called Sirhowy by locals), with the latter being good for routes in the 7s.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks for this, a good week to report but firstly, with regards your trip to Spain - think about your style and choose the right crag accordingly. Long routes with obvious beta = Chuililla. Steep pocket pulling = Margalef. Endurance pocket pulling = Monsant. Crimpy face climbing with ten foot movements to each hand move = Siurana. Etc etc etc.
Mon - rest
Tue - Paul's board. Stuff then 10 pull-ups in 3min (huge improvement) On lattice edge, single foot pulling. On 2min - 10,10,10,7,8,6. A tags
Wed - Climbing Station. Did V0/1 circuit, felt easy. Did some V1/2 thing then taped big toe. Did three 3/4 straight off (1xV4 flash). Easy lap of 5+ circuit. Then tried a lot of hard things! Ace night.
Thu - Paul's. Pull-ups, on lattice edge and wide pull-ups. 3 in quick succession etc, lock off on wide and move a little way side to side - this was hard but good progress. One hour only but enough.
Fri - rest
Sat - rest
Sun - Rubicon. Good condition today despite showers. Managed a move in the reverse of the main traverse that's had me off for three years! Then Trunk not Punk 7a. Pretty tired but made progress, getting right hand on triangle hold and staying there happily but lost sight of the right foothold and dropped off. Worked out beta tho, so fresh, should be good for clipping the last bolt. Game on I think.
Taped the left big toe at Loughborough, it's been painful for a month, I think ligament damage from the crack climbing in Swizzy. Hurts so much and today I took a fall into a ledge and stubbed it, so need to be careful or else challenge 555 will be over.
Otherwise, super happy this week. Fingers are weak but I feel good generally and left Rubicon today thinking 7a isn't such a daft idea in the short term. I'm enjoying the process, that's what matters.
Thanks for this, a good week to report but firstly, with regards your trip to Spain - think about your style and choose the right crag accordingly. Long routes with obvious beta = Chuililla. Steep pocket pulling = Margalef. Endurance pocket pulling = Monsant. Crimpy face climbing with ten foot movements to each hand move = Siurana. Etc etc etc.
Mon - rest
Tue - Paul's board. Stuff then 10 pull-ups in 3min (huge improvement) On lattice edge, single foot pulling. On 2min - 10,10,10,7,8,6. A tags
Wed - Climbing Station. Did V0/1 circuit, felt easy. Did some V1/2 thing then taped big toe. Did three 3/4 straight off (1xV4 flash). Easy lap of 5+ circuit. Then tried a lot of hard things! Ace night.
Thu - Paul's. Pull-ups, on lattice edge and wide pull-ups. 3 in quick succession etc, lock off on wide and move a little way side to side - this was hard but good progress. One hour only but enough.
Fri - rest
Sat - rest
Sun - Rubicon. Good condition today despite showers. Managed a move in the reverse of the main traverse that's had me off for three years! Then Trunk not Punk 7a. Pretty tired but made progress, getting right hand on triangle hold and staying there happily but lost sight of the right foothold and dropped off. Worked out beta tho, so fresh, should be good for clipping the last bolt. Game on I think.
Taped the left big toe at Loughborough, it's been painful for a month, I think ligament damage from the crack climbing in Swizzy. Hurts so much and today I took a fall into a ledge and stubbed it, so need to be careful or else challenge 555 will be over.
Otherwise, super happy this week. Fingers are weak but I feel good generally and left Rubicon today thinking 7a isn't such a daft idea in the short term. I'm enjoying the process, that's what matters.
1
In reply to mattrm:
Based on my very limited experience of S Wales sandstone, The Gap is also worthy of note - Encore! Magnifique! (7b+) and Salmon Running, Bear Cunning Right-Hand Finish (7a) and all..... had a good day out with hms and D2 once upon a year...
Based on my very limited experience of S Wales sandstone, The Gap is also worthy of note - Encore! Magnifique! (7b+) and Salmon Running, Bear Cunning Right-Hand Finish (7a) and all..... had a good day out with hms and D2 once upon a year...
2
In reply to AlanLittle:
Did you spot mine from last week?
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=670177&v=1#x8625517
> 2. Ask Fit Club for recommendations for achievable 7b's. DONE - thanks AJM. Any more for any more?
Did you spot mine from last week?
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=670177&v=1#x8625517
In reply to guy127917:
Yes, Mecca the route! The exercise looks like this: https://www.instagram.com/p/BYghKCPBJ88/
Week 36
M - Reported last week. Kilnsey - Project wet. 50-for-5/Ashes x3 whippers from the boss or thereabouts. Truth Drug, 7b+ flash to warm-down.
T - Nowt, but compared to previous weeks I wasn’t wiped out in the slightest. Wining against the lurgy
W - Kilnsey; after work dash. Very rushed with lack of daylight. Dogged, then RP’d 50 for 5/The Ashes link-up (8a+). John repeated my FA from two weeks ago, and then I did a 5min speed ascent of the 7b+ start to my roof project with none of the normal shake-outs. Threw in the towel and dogged/aided/back-aided the roof project to retrieve draws. Despite the crag starting to dry out again, it’s time to move on, as I have very limited weekends in September, and evening trips are just about infeasible from now on.
T - Nowt – workin’
F - FB. Warm-up, then 1-arm BM2K central slot hangs with assist. 10s L+R, -14, -11, -10kg (all just about completed). 5s L+R, -5, -4, -4 (only just on last hang with L-hand). 2x 5s lock offs on each arm. Repeaters; 7/3/6/3@BW; Middle-2 x3 fairly doable (+2kg this week?) 35degree slopers x3. Just finished first set. 2nd & 3rd I barely made it through the 3rd hang; much work to do here. 3x20 press-ups. 3x4 mecca exercises. 10x 1on/1off aero-cap FoC with 15xdish-tuck in rest minute. Fairly beastly training session, made awesome when my amazing girlfriend handing me pulled-pork bap and a bottle of cider 30s after I finished!
S - Nowt – Family birthday BBQ. Some Therabanding before bed. Core and shoulder #DOMS
S - Core #DOMS. More family fun – scrumping apples from a National Trust property.
Sad to be walking away from the Kilnsey project without a tick. My best efforts were doing the route in 3 overlapping sections.
1) Floor to damp pockets; 8b? to RP through this bit to Freakshow jugs?
2) With pre-dried pockets, I linked from 3 moves before the crux to the end of the Freakshow rail; 8a link?
3) From knee-scum just before end of the Freakshow rail to the top of Freakshow/Mandela; 8a+ link?
With the experience from this year, I know what to work on this autumn/winter:
- More strength in fingers and shoulders - having a surfeit will be useful to be able to do the cruxes even with damp pockets
- More core strength & stamina - to recover arms in the rests
- More mental tenacity to keep up another seasons worth of psyche!
In the meantime, 555 goals are, 2 of:
In Heaven (lite) (f8A+)
CB low start - Upper Cut (V10)
An extended start to: Dickens' Cider (8a+)
Waddage (8b)
"Unfinished Sympathy" (8b)
Weedkiller/Chimes Link (8b)
Ben's Roof Extension Start (f8A)
10s, 1-arm hang with 4kg assist
Yes, Mecca the route! The exercise looks like this: https://www.instagram.com/p/BYghKCPBJ88/
Week 36
M - Reported last week. Kilnsey - Project wet. 50-for-5/Ashes x3 whippers from the boss or thereabouts. Truth Drug, 7b+ flash to warm-down.
T - Nowt, but compared to previous weeks I wasn’t wiped out in the slightest. Wining against the lurgy
W - Kilnsey; after work dash. Very rushed with lack of daylight. Dogged, then RP’d 50 for 5/The Ashes link-up (8a+). John repeated my FA from two weeks ago, and then I did a 5min speed ascent of the 7b+ start to my roof project with none of the normal shake-outs. Threw in the towel and dogged/aided/back-aided the roof project to retrieve draws. Despite the crag starting to dry out again, it’s time to move on, as I have very limited weekends in September, and evening trips are just about infeasible from now on.
T - Nowt – workin’
F - FB. Warm-up, then 1-arm BM2K central slot hangs with assist. 10s L+R, -14, -11, -10kg (all just about completed). 5s L+R, -5, -4, -4 (only just on last hang with L-hand). 2x 5s lock offs on each arm. Repeaters; 7/3/6/3@BW; Middle-2 x3 fairly doable (+2kg this week?) 35degree slopers x3. Just finished first set. 2nd & 3rd I barely made it through the 3rd hang; much work to do here. 3x20 press-ups. 3x4 mecca exercises. 10x 1on/1off aero-cap FoC with 15xdish-tuck in rest minute. Fairly beastly training session, made awesome when my amazing girlfriend handing me pulled-pork bap and a bottle of cider 30s after I finished!
S - Nowt – Family birthday BBQ. Some Therabanding before bed. Core and shoulder #DOMS
S - Core #DOMS. More family fun – scrumping apples from a National Trust property.
Sad to be walking away from the Kilnsey project without a tick. My best efforts were doing the route in 3 overlapping sections.
1) Floor to damp pockets; 8b? to RP through this bit to Freakshow jugs?
2) With pre-dried pockets, I linked from 3 moves before the crux to the end of the Freakshow rail; 8a link?
3) From knee-scum just before end of the Freakshow rail to the top of Freakshow/Mandela; 8a+ link?
With the experience from this year, I know what to work on this autumn/winter:
- More strength in fingers and shoulders - having a surfeit will be useful to be able to do the cruxes even with damp pockets
- More core strength & stamina - to recover arms in the rests
- More mental tenacity to keep up another seasons worth of psyche!
In the meantime, 555 goals are, 2 of:
In Heaven (lite) (f8A+)
CB low start - Upper Cut (V10)
An extended start to: Dickens' Cider (8a+)
Waddage (8b)
"Unfinished Sympathy" (8b)
Weedkiller/Chimes Link (8b)
Ben's Roof Extension Start (f8A)
10s, 1-arm hang with 4kg assist
Post edited at 08:55
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy.
Can I add an extra goal? 7b circuit at The Depot or BoulderUK. I need to get route fit as I am off to El Chorro at the beginning of November. Not going to put an outdoor goal route wise as this weekend showed you can't rely on the weather. Target for the trip will be 7b quick redpoint. Can't decide if it's ambitious or not as I seem to be flashing 7a atm outdoors (ish) and Spanish lime is always easier to read than UK lime. I haven't done any fitness work of any sort for months so with quick boost i'd hope to see some good gains. I do need to increase my all day stamina though. I've got one good go a day in me atm and that' not much use.
Today I am going to order the beastmaker mount so I can get some pumpy repeaters done and my fat average for the week was 14.9% so I can compare next week.
Feast and famine pattern continues with me climbing 5 times this week!
Monday - Depot - trying more pinks that I felt would go from last visit. They didn't. Very hot and I lost psyche quite quickly but still pulled hard.
Wednesday - New BoulderUK - flipping amazing. It's still got the setting quality but with 10 x more wall space and hold variety. The training area is something to behold. Wow! I've got to drive past it on the way back from work twice a week so I know where i'll be climbing from now on. Climbed aimlessly (too hard too quick) for a while and then did a lot of the V5 circuit.
Friday - still hurting from Wednesday and skin sore but back at BUK. Took it a bit easier and nothing harder than V4.
Saturday - Chapel Head Scar - major cock up on a 7a. It looked tricky so as rope and clips were in opted for a quick top rope first. Only went and flashed it. Doh! Then fluffed up the crux on lead as rope got in the way and I pumped out massively at the top. Idiot!
Sunday - rain dodging - Millside - 6b warm up, rain. Planned look at soft 7b shelved. Coffee and cake while the weather made its mind up and then to Trowbarrow to try the Red Wall Traverse in the rain. Linked from RHS to the bulge on my first go but again ran out of steam after getting pumped once. Bit tired from the whole week I think. Did all the moves but will need some refining. Quite challenging conditions. Good fun for a traverse, in the rain.
This week get BM up and use it. Go to BUK twice - get on circuit board if it's ready. Depot circuit board after coaching on Wednesday. I'm away (non climbing) at the weekend so that may be it.
Cheers Guy.
Can I add an extra goal? 7b circuit at The Depot or BoulderUK. I need to get route fit as I am off to El Chorro at the beginning of November. Not going to put an outdoor goal route wise as this weekend showed you can't rely on the weather. Target for the trip will be 7b quick redpoint. Can't decide if it's ambitious or not as I seem to be flashing 7a atm outdoors (ish) and Spanish lime is always easier to read than UK lime. I haven't done any fitness work of any sort for months so with quick boost i'd hope to see some good gains. I do need to increase my all day stamina though. I've got one good go a day in me atm and that' not much use.
Today I am going to order the beastmaker mount so I can get some pumpy repeaters done and my fat average for the week was 14.9% so I can compare next week.
Feast and famine pattern continues with me climbing 5 times this week!
Monday - Depot - trying more pinks that I felt would go from last visit. They didn't. Very hot and I lost psyche quite quickly but still pulled hard.
Wednesday - New BoulderUK - flipping amazing. It's still got the setting quality but with 10 x more wall space and hold variety. The training area is something to behold. Wow! I've got to drive past it on the way back from work twice a week so I know where i'll be climbing from now on. Climbed aimlessly (too hard too quick) for a while and then did a lot of the V5 circuit.
Friday - still hurting from Wednesday and skin sore but back at BUK. Took it a bit easier and nothing harder than V4.
Saturday - Chapel Head Scar - major cock up on a 7a. It looked tricky so as rope and clips were in opted for a quick top rope first. Only went and flashed it. Doh! Then fluffed up the crux on lead as rope got in the way and I pumped out massively at the top. Idiot!
Sunday - rain dodging - Millside - 6b warm up, rain. Planned look at soft 7b shelved. Coffee and cake while the weather made its mind up and then to Trowbarrow to try the Red Wall Traverse in the rain. Linked from RHS to the bulge on my first go but again ran out of steam after getting pumped once. Bit tired from the whole week I think. Did all the moves but will need some refining. Quite challenging conditions. Good fun for a traverse, in the rain.
This week get BM up and use it. Go to BUK twice - get on circuit board if it's ready. Depot circuit board after coaching on Wednesday. I'm away (non climbing) at the weekend so that may be it.
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy, previous longest run was 16 km and boy did that extra 5 on the end make a difference! Anyway it would be rather cheeky to try log it twice so last week starts from Tuesday.
Tuesday, usual 1km lunchtime swim
Wednesday, 15km ride to work, 1km lunchtime swim and 27km ride home
Thursday, 1km lunchtime swim and 44km ride home
Friday 1km lunchtime swim, 22km ride home and 8km run whilst the daughter swam.
Weekend was rest as I slightly damaged my knee and ankle on the Friday evening run.
> the sheep: Congrats on doing the half!
Cheers Guy, previous longest run was 16 km and boy did that extra 5 on the end make a difference! Anyway it would be rather cheeky to try log it twice so last week starts from Tuesday.
Tuesday, usual 1km lunchtime swim
Wednesday, 15km ride to work, 1km lunchtime swim and 27km ride home
Thursday, 1km lunchtime swim and 44km ride home
Friday 1km lunchtime swim, 22km ride home and 8km run whilst the daughter swam.
Weekend was rest as I slightly damaged my knee and ankle on the Friday evening run.
In reply to AJM:
I remember that - yes it was a good day out. I'd add One Track Mind as another excellent 7a at the Gap. Don't go near Pleasant Valley Sunday though - it is an utter sandbag.
I remember that - yes it was a good day out. I'd add One Track Mind as another excellent 7a at the Gap. Don't go near Pleasant Valley Sunday though - it is an utter sandbag.
2
In reply to guy127917:
feeling much better thank you. No I haven't found a replacement yoga session - don't know how to avoid the ones that are solely full of middle aged ladies (which of course I totally am not, no no no, total denial!!)
Week555 goals (omitted from last week):
do Wye Valley Challenge (Ally - nudge, nudge)
do Magma1 in Ariege - a 7a I briefly tried about 6 years ago
do a 7b in the Ariege (holiday RP lite - plus can't remember if Ariege has stinky French hard grading!)
get back on Storm Warning and get the rock-over & udge crux better dialled so starting serious redpointing is feasible
shunt Armistice E6
This week - all a bit hazy so possibly not 100% accurate:
M - Bank Holiday. Checked out the Wye Valley Challenge routes at Wyndcliff Quarry with husband, who keeled over in the heat. 11/14 climbed, once twice as he was out for the count but it was a traverse so someone had to strip it!
T - cycle commute. FB warmup then 5/10/5/3 on 20mm edge with up to +16kg by the final iteration. Rest then 1min on/1min off with 7kg assist on the same edge.
W - cycle commute. Various prehab weights, TRX Is Ys Ts, bit of theraband.
T - cycle commute. Back to Wyndcliff Q in evening to do the final 3 easy routes, then quick couple of tries on a new 7a+ which is well hard. Gets dark far earlier now so had to pack up before I'd unlocked the crux sequence.
F - 2 miles urban walking. Prehab weights, TRX Is Ys Ts, bit of theraband.
S - Armistice trying E6 on TR. Need to be able to rig a straighter line. 1 very hard bit I'm not getting, 1 bit I couldn't work cos of the sideways pull.
S - TCA, new V2-V4 set. A few OS so keen to return. Knee was fine although I treated it with care.
current injury total not too bad. Left index finger is unhappy unless I tape it. Right elbow grumbles and I have to be very careful with it. Shoulders currently fine - hurrah.
feeling much better thank you. No I haven't found a replacement yoga session - don't know how to avoid the ones that are solely full of middle aged ladies (which of course I totally am not, no no no, total denial!!)
Week555 goals (omitted from last week):
do Wye Valley Challenge (Ally - nudge, nudge)
do Magma1 in Ariege - a 7a I briefly tried about 6 years ago
do a 7b in the Ariege (holiday RP lite - plus can't remember if Ariege has stinky French hard grading!)
get back on Storm Warning and get the rock-over & udge crux better dialled so starting serious redpointing is feasible
shunt Armistice E6
This week - all a bit hazy so possibly not 100% accurate:
M - Bank Holiday. Checked out the Wye Valley Challenge routes at Wyndcliff Quarry with husband, who keeled over in the heat. 11/14 climbed, once twice as he was out for the count but it was a traverse so someone had to strip it!
T - cycle commute. FB warmup then 5/10/5/3 on 20mm edge with up to +16kg by the final iteration. Rest then 1min on/1min off with 7kg assist on the same edge.
W - cycle commute. Various prehab weights, TRX Is Ys Ts, bit of theraband.
T - cycle commute. Back to Wyndcliff Q in evening to do the final 3 easy routes, then quick couple of tries on a new 7a+ which is well hard. Gets dark far earlier now so had to pack up before I'd unlocked the crux sequence.
F - 2 miles urban walking. Prehab weights, TRX Is Ys Ts, bit of theraband.
S - Armistice trying E6 on TR. Need to be able to rig a straighter line. 1 very hard bit I'm not getting, 1 bit I couldn't work cos of the sideways pull.
S - TCA, new V2-V4 set. A few OS so keen to return. Knee was fine although I treated it with care.
current injury total not too bad. Left index finger is unhappy unless I tape it. Right elbow grumbles and I have to be very careful with it. Shoulders currently fine - hurrah.
1
In reply to hms:
Globe Trotters (7b) was good.
I thought Pleasant Valley Sunday (7a+) was meant to be good climbing, just 7b rather than 7a+ or whatever?
> do a 7b in the Ariege (holiday RP lite - plus can't remember if Ariege has stinky French hard grading!)
Globe Trotters (7b) was good.
I thought Pleasant Valley Sunday (7a+) was meant to be good climbing, just 7b rather than 7a+ or whatever?
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for the recommendation.
I think PVS was deemed under-graded even before someone yanked off a ley hold. And I believe it has a significantly weird sequence to get through the crux which involves some sort of crossover/face outwards smart-arsery and a long armspan. My sole play on it ended in me retreating in utter confusion!
Thanks for the recommendation.
I think PVS was deemed under-graded even before someone yanked off a ley hold. And I believe it has a significantly weird sequence to get through the crux which involves some sort of crossover/face outwards smart-arsery and a long armspan. My sole play on it ended in me retreating in utter confusion!
1
In reply to the sheep:
Yes at > 1.5 hours you are really starting to have to think about proper fuelling, hydration etc. The first time I ran HM distance I did resulted in a massive bonk (my first), had to drop pace by about 3min/mile!!
> boy did that extra 5 on the end make a difference
Yes at > 1.5 hours you are really starting to have to think about proper fuelling, hydration etc. The first time I ran HM distance I did resulted in a massive bonk (my first), had to drop pace by about 3min/mile!!
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers, I had been out before the run and hidden a couple of bottles of squash at around 8 and 11 miles which helped We were only going round our local roads, not an organised event.
We did have to stop and walk for a while as my wife felt a bit wibbly after mile 10 and got tingling in her arms, although in fairness it was a scorching day. We have ordered some Tailwind on recommendations from other members of her running club so will see what thats like. What do you use?
Cheers, I had been out before the run and hidden a couple of bottles of squash at around 8 and 11 miles which helped We were only going round our local roads, not an organised event.
We did have to stop and walk for a while as my wife felt a bit wibbly after mile 10 and got tingling in her arms, although in fairness it was a scorching day. We have ordered some Tailwind on recommendations from other members of her running club so will see what thats like. What do you use?
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks, I appreciate it. Managed to combine a run with visiting my son this week as I ran from Bingley into Leeds, which turned out to be further than I thought.
m - slow 10k
t - 10k cycling
w - 10k cycling, 25k running
t - rest
f - 10k cycling, Bingley Music Live
s - Bingley Music Live
s - Bingley Music Live
> hokkyo: Sorry to hear about your son’s accident. Remember you have done a good amount of volume so far this year so try not to worry too much about taking time out in the run up to Budapest.
Thanks, I appreciate it. Managed to combine a run with visiting my son this week as I ran from Bingley into Leeds, which turned out to be further than I thought.
m - slow 10k
t - 10k cycling
w - 10k cycling, 25k running
t - rest
f - 10k cycling, Bingley Music Live
s - Bingley Music Live
s - Bingley Music Live
In reply to the sheep:
My preference is the SIS gels, and the caffeinated ones in races. I have found I can get away with minimal water intake for about 2 hours using just them. For longer training runs I would get the camelbak out with water + SIS hydration tabs.
I really got into fasted morning long runs though, maybe just taking a few BCAA tabs beforehand. It takes a while for your body to adapt to not having carbs to burn, but it feels pretty good. I still take a couple of gels out in case of issues. Note that I wouldn't necessarily recommend jumping into 10+ mile fasted runs, like everything, you build it up!
My preference is the SIS gels, and the caffeinated ones in races. I have found I can get away with minimal water intake for about 2 hours using just them. For longer training runs I would get the camelbak out with water + SIS hydration tabs.
I really got into fasted morning long runs though, maybe just taking a few BCAA tabs beforehand. It takes a while for your body to adapt to not having carbs to burn, but it feels pretty good. I still take a couple of gels out in case of issues. Note that I wouldn't necessarily recommend jumping into 10+ mile fasted runs, like everything, you build it up!
In reply to guy127917:
I have a question for you fit club folk. Do you get motivation to train from this thread? Genuine question, I have long thought about joining but don't want to be publicly shamed for my training apathy and preference for drinking benders over training . I occasionally read it which is somewhat voyeuristic and see some of you have been on this for quite some time over the years. All jokes aside, I could do with as much motivation help as humanly possible!
Edit! Oh and what is a 555 goal? Sounds like something from sheffield .
I have a question for you fit club folk. Do you get motivation to train from this thread? Genuine question, I have long thought about joining but don't want to be publicly shamed for my training apathy and preference for drinking benders over training . I occasionally read it which is somewhat voyeuristic and see some of you have been on this for quite some time over the years. All jokes aside, I could do with as much motivation help as humanly possible!
Edit! Oh and what is a 555 goal? Sounds like something from sheffield .
Post edited at 15:29
In reply to snoop6060:
Haha there is no public shaming! There is a big range of commitment, ability and disciplines so I wouldn't worry about it. People dip in and out, it's no problem.
Only you can determine if you will get motivation from it, but you should get the following
- a weekly cue to check in and record your previous weeks
- public forum for committing to goals
- somewhere to ask casual questions that you wouldnt bother to make a full ukc thread on
- at least one person commenting on weekly progress
- the level of accountability you want (can range from 'always encouraging' through 'probing questions' to 'calling you out based on previously stated goals')
Haha there is no public shaming! There is a big range of commitment, ability and disciplines so I wouldn't worry about it. People dip in and out, it's no problem.
Only you can determine if you will get motivation from it, but you should get the following
- a weekly cue to check in and record your previous weeks
- public forum for committing to goals
- somewhere to ask casual questions that you wouldnt bother to make a full ukc thread on
- at least one person commenting on weekly progress
- the level of accountability you want (can range from 'always encouraging' through 'probing questions' to 'calling you out based on previously stated goals')
2
In reply to snoop6060:
555 goal is a goal to complete by FitClub 555 (ie 9 weeks time). It started this week, so a perfect time to set yourself a SMART goal and get stuck in.
Specific
Measurable
Achievable
Relevant
Timely
555 goal is a goal to complete by FitClub 555 (ie 9 weeks time). It started this week, so a perfect time to set yourself a SMART goal and get stuck in.
Specific
Measurable
Achievable
Relevant
Timely
In reply to AJM:
I've never actually been there tbh. Got to stuck with Navigation and Sirhowy in recent years. But it is supposed to be good.
> Based on my very limited experience of S Wales sandstone, The Gap is also worthy of note.
I've never actually been there tbh. Got to stuck with Navigation and Sirhowy in recent years. But it is supposed to be good.
Post edited at 16:45
In reply to guy127917:
Right, ok, may as well try it and see I guess. Do feel free to shame me though, I don't respond well to compliments and prefer outright abuse. If I post on here that I fell off something because I am short (which I do a fair bit as I am incredibly short) do not hold back. 9 week goals are timely since I have 3 trips in those 9 weeks. Kalymnos, Chullia and Red Rocks. I have also had one of them fancy assessments done which apart from giving me an easily measurable target to train on, highlighted that I knew absolutely nothing about my own climbing ability as it was basically the exact opposite of what I expected and what I climb. Said I had the finger strength of a v9/10 boulderer (95% of body weight on one hand for 5 seconds on the bottom rung of a BM 1000 board). I have not climbed anywhere near V10 as I am a route climber mainly. It said I have absolutely pathetic endurance (both types) so train that! Weird but hey ho.
9 week goal: onsight/flash a 7c. Possibly a slightly lofty one but done a few second go this year so I am getting into the mindset that this may be possible which is the first step of actually doing it!
Right, ok, may as well try it and see I guess. Do feel free to shame me though, I don't respond well to compliments and prefer outright abuse. If I post on here that I fell off something because I am short (which I do a fair bit as I am incredibly short) do not hold back. 9 week goals are timely since I have 3 trips in those 9 weeks. Kalymnos, Chullia and Red Rocks. I have also had one of them fancy assessments done which apart from giving me an easily measurable target to train on, highlighted that I knew absolutely nothing about my own climbing ability as it was basically the exact opposite of what I expected and what I climb. Said I had the finger strength of a v9/10 boulderer (95% of body weight on one hand for 5 seconds on the bottom rung of a BM 1000 board). I have not climbed anywhere near V10 as I am a route climber mainly. It said I have absolutely pathetic endurance (both types) so train that! Weird but hey ho.
9 week goal: onsight/flash a 7c. Possibly a slightly lofty one but done a few second go this year so I am getting into the mindset that this may be possible which is the first step of actually doing it!
Post edited at 17:31
1
In reply to guy127917:
Planning to be in Red Rocks that week and am waiting on the guidebook to arrive. So, in the meantime -
* The File (VS 4c). Really no excuses for not doing this now.
* Send Banana Finger (f6A). Was so close on my first attempt so can surely do this.
* Send Crescent Arête (f5+). Flashing V2s on a fairly regular basis now so this should go soon. Waiting for a good Autumn gritstone day.
* The Unconquerables at the Plantation.
This week -
Mon - Some Max Strength stuff. Weighted pullups, dips.
Tue - Fingerboard Max Hangs. 5x4 Finger open hand (bodyweight), 5x half crimp (-20kg)
Wed - Trail Run. 7k/220m
Thu - Core/Max Strength (Weighted pullups, dips, front squats, deadlift)
Fri - Bouldering @ Roaches Skyline, flashed 3 slabby V2s (Two Pocket Slab (f5), Eager Trout (f5+), Lazy Trout (f5+))
Sat - Trad at Running Hill Pits. Interesting. Plumb Line (VS 4c) was excellent. Everything else is good until you're required to top out.
Sun - Trad at Curbar Edge.
STG
Next week's goals -
* Trying to manage simultaneously training for a mountain marathon and a climbing trip
* 2 Upper body strength sessions/Fingerboard
* 2 Core sessions
* 2 trail runs, long one at the weekend.
* 1 Lower body strength session
* 1 Lower body Strength Endurance session (hill climbs of some description)
* 3 leads at HVS or above
* 1 bouldering session.
MTG
OMM End October
Left shoulder rehab.
Red Rocks trip (November)
British Trad Routes:
The File (VS 4c)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
The Sloth (HVS 5a)
The HVSs on Hen Cloud
The Unconquerables
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
The Embankment routes at Millstone
Bouldering
Banana Finger (f6A)
Technical Master (f6B)
Crescent Arête (f5+)
LTG
The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Left Wall (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Vector (E2 5c)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) Solo (Spring 2018)
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Dalriada (E7 6b)
Something on El Capitan.
> Challenge 555 goals (November 5th)
Planning to be in Red Rocks that week and am waiting on the guidebook to arrive. So, in the meantime -
* The File (VS 4c). Really no excuses for not doing this now.
* Send Banana Finger (f6A). Was so close on my first attempt so can surely do this.
* Send Crescent Arête (f5+). Flashing V2s on a fairly regular basis now so this should go soon. Waiting for a good Autumn gritstone day.
* The Unconquerables at the Plantation.
This week -
Mon - Some Max Strength stuff. Weighted pullups, dips.
Tue - Fingerboard Max Hangs. 5x4 Finger open hand (bodyweight), 5x half crimp (-20kg)
Wed - Trail Run. 7k/220m
Thu - Core/Max Strength (Weighted pullups, dips, front squats, deadlift)
Fri - Bouldering @ Roaches Skyline, flashed 3 slabby V2s (Two Pocket Slab (f5), Eager Trout (f5+), Lazy Trout (f5+))
Sat - Trad at Running Hill Pits. Interesting. Plumb Line (VS 4c) was excellent. Everything else is good until you're required to top out.
Sun - Trad at Curbar Edge.
STG
Next week's goals -
* Trying to manage simultaneously training for a mountain marathon and a climbing trip
* 2 Upper body strength sessions/Fingerboard
* 2 Core sessions
* 2 trail runs, long one at the weekend.
* 1 Lower body strength session
* 1 Lower body Strength Endurance session (hill climbs of some description)
* 3 leads at HVS or above
* 1 bouldering session.
MTG
OMM End October
Left shoulder rehab.
Red Rocks trip (November)
British Trad Routes:
The File (VS 4c)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
The Sloth (HVS 5a)
The HVSs on Hen Cloud
The Unconquerables
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
The Embankment routes at Millstone
Bouldering
Banana Finger (f6A)
Technical Master (f6B)
Crescent Arête (f5+)
LTG
The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Left Wall (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Vector (E2 5c)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) Solo (Spring 2018)
> Scottish Winter 2017/18
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Dalriada (E7 6b)
Something on El Capitan.
In reply to snoop6060:
I know some have left due to finding it demotivating because they couldn't do as much as they wanted and others had the opportunity to - but for me personally, I've found it brilliant at times. It makes sure that I do at least three sessions of something relevant to whatever my particular goal is, I really don't want to shame myself basically on a public forum, and I actually started on here because I wanted to train for an ultra. Climbing was very much a secondary thing six years ago when I started.
Keeping in mind that others have found it demotivating, I tend not to post when I'm away on big trips as it would feel like rubbing people's nose in it but for short trips (two weeks or less) I'm happy to stick details up. It's gotta add to the group psyche eh?
I find everyone's personal goal lists inspiring - it's always great to see the commitment out there for everyone to see.
Welcome to the group.
> I have a question for you fit club folk. Do you get motivation to train from this thread?
I know some have left due to finding it demotivating because they couldn't do as much as they wanted and others had the opportunity to - but for me personally, I've found it brilliant at times. It makes sure that I do at least three sessions of something relevant to whatever my particular goal is, I really don't want to shame myself basically on a public forum, and I actually started on here because I wanted to train for an ultra. Climbing was very much a secondary thing six years ago when I started.
Keeping in mind that others have found it demotivating, I tend not to post when I'm away on big trips as it would feel like rubbing people's nose in it but for short trips (two weeks or less) I'm happy to stick details up. It's gotta add to the group psyche eh?
I find everyone's personal goal lists inspiring - it's always great to see the commitment out there for everyone to see.
Welcome to the group.
1
In reply to snoop6060:
Hi, on the whole contributing here does help keep me motivated as i feel it keeps me accountable. I keep my own training log as well and use Strava. However its nice posting on here as you get encouragement even though sometimes i feel bit of an impostor as I hardly ever post anything climbing related.
Hi, on the whole contributing here does help keep me motivated as i feel it keeps me accountable. I keep my own training log as well and use Strava. However its nice posting on here as you get encouragement even though sometimes i feel bit of an impostor as I hardly ever post anything climbing related.
1
In reply to guy127917:
M: Llanymynech but didn't do much. Good venue though
T: Physio
W: Nothing, drove to Scotland.
T: Got on Hamish Teddy's, got all the moves but found it hard and took me all session to work
F: Quick bolt to bolt of Hamish told me it wasn't going to go (two nights in a van not conducive to sporting performance). One quick RP to collect the draws, fell off at first hard move but surprised myself by going from there to the top but no time or energy for another go. Afternoon spent relaxing and overeating in Kinloch Rannoch
S: Relaxing and overeating in Kinloch Rannoch.
S: We were supposed to walk from Corrour but it was raining so I got a chance to do Hamish Teddy's on way home but took two goes due to puntering near the top on first RP.
Injuries: Elbow and hip seem constant, re-cut finger, calf injury getting better but shoulder worse (a lot of driving in van), arthiritc toe.
Diet: Ate like a pig
Inspiration: The route at Dunkeld, I was so psyched for it, pity it took three visits
STG: Nothing planned
Will try to think of some 3x5 goals this week
M: Llanymynech but didn't do much. Good venue though
T: Physio
W: Nothing, drove to Scotland.
T: Got on Hamish Teddy's, got all the moves but found it hard and took me all session to work
F: Quick bolt to bolt of Hamish told me it wasn't going to go (two nights in a van not conducive to sporting performance). One quick RP to collect the draws, fell off at first hard move but surprised myself by going from there to the top but no time or energy for another go. Afternoon spent relaxing and overeating in Kinloch Rannoch
S: Relaxing and overeating in Kinloch Rannoch.
S: We were supposed to walk from Corrour but it was raining so I got a chance to do Hamish Teddy's on way home but took two goes due to puntering near the top on first RP.
Injuries: Elbow and hip seem constant, re-cut finger, calf injury getting better but shoulder worse (a lot of driving in van), arthiritc toe.
Diet: Ate like a pig
Inspiration: The route at Dunkeld, I was so psyched for it, pity it took three visits
STG: Nothing planned
Will try to think of some 3x5 goals this week
Post edited at 22:30
1
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy, good stats as always!
I think the biggest thing between me and a 1 day redpoint of an 8th graded route is my head. I thought that once I ticked 8a it wouldn't seem to be quite such a barrier but i've got three in the bag now and they still seem a scary prospect.
I need to change my mental approach, I presume it will be hard- maybe too hard- so I don't try, instead I need to ignore that and at least have a go. I remember working a 7b in the Wye Valley Nelson Mandela (7b) several years ago. I tried the moves and thought there was no way I could redpoint it, it felt way, way too hard. Regardless, the grade was within my current ability so I tied in for a go, and redpointed it. I need to do that on harder routes, ignore the doubts and at least try!
Also having a partner that can work it with me would be good, as much as I love climbing with Mrs Dandan, our grade disparity means i'm almost always climbing hard on my own, so to speak. There will potentially be up to 3 other '8' climbers in Margalef with us in October so that should help things, I don't want to put 8a in a day as a 555 goal, but it will be in the back of my mind.
Pretty poor week just gone, I talked to Tom about topping up the aero before Margalef (although there is some on the plan closer to the holiday, I clearly didn't look very hard at the plan) and he suggested destroying myself for a fortnight now with loads of extra aero to give things a kick. I tried to do so but I think I just needed a rest after Kaly, I felt weak and useless, doing sessions on what are normally warmup routes, plus my finger got sore again so I tried to listen to my body and eased off.
M: Nothing
T: Indoor Boulder; System board doubles, 2 reps with 5 sec rest between, 6 sets with 4 min rest. I did this on my warm-up route, felt really weak.
W: Fingerboard; New session, based on 10s 1 hand max hang on 20mm edge with weight/assistance. Then do timed reps of 6,7,7,7,7,6 sec hangs, 2 min rest between. Did it at +0 LH and -2kg RH due to iffy finger.
Antag theraband
T: Indoor Boulder; system board triples, 6 reps.
Also did 1min on 1min off x10 circuit board, incorporating mono and 2 finger holds where possible. This was really good, forearms were busted for days but the practical application of monos instead of just hanging off slings or fingerboards felt really worthwhile. As I have been building up to it slowly, the monos were hard but not painful or tweaky.
F: Indoor Boulder; sacked off the planned session due to tiredness and had a mooch about, actually ticked my first ever BoulderShack V5 after some shouting and a bit of skin loss, their comp wall grades are ridiculous!
S: Dorset Bolt Fund rebolting day at Battleship. This was a lot of fun, so good to see 20 people all pitching in to improve things for everyone. As I brought my chainsaw along, I became part of the path maintenance crew, we had large logs and steel stakes to make proper steps with and so I was committed to chopping the logs down to length.
The progress was fantastic, Marti (Mr DBF) had really thought about it so as well as the logs and stakes there was a roll of loose weave hessian for retaining the dirt and even grass seed to encourage growth on the steps!
Hopefully we can get more of these occasions happening, there are plenty more paths in need of attention, not to mention the bolts.
S: Nothing
I've been looking at the comments for Niña Mala (8b) on 8a.nu and it seems I might have picked a bit of a stiff one for my first 8b. I'm not worried so much about the difficulty, but I have this theory that a 'hard' 8b can feel harder than an 'easy' 8b+ and yet they both rightly retain their grades. I think it's to do with quality of moves, variety of sequences, things like that. I think of those 'hard for the grade' routes as something like "an 8b for 8c climbers", so something that is the right grade but perhaps requires a bit of spare skill/power/stamina/luck etc to be do-able.
It got me thinking that perhaps, as stupid as it sounds, I should switch my focus to the route to the right which shares the first few bolts, Flash Over (8b+) as it is considered generally softer and also less cruxy. Ok, it's another grade up, but if my theory holds water, it may feel easier, especially if my endurance is in good shape then it might be a more likely prospect.
new STG:
* keep finger happy by being more selective with indoor holds and routes
* More neck stretches
MTG: (next few months)
* Progress on Nina mala/flash over in Margalef
* Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger back doing OK
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Illusions (7c) - TICK
* Megalomania (7c) - TICK
* Sirene (7c) - TICK
* Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c)
* Detonator (7c)
* Tennessee (7c)
* Prison Sex (7c+)
* Nightmare Scenario (7c)
* The Breathing Method (8a)
* Monoculture (7c+)
LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 2 done and 2 more booked!
* tick 3 x 8a - 2/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook) - 4/10
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year
> Dandan: Excellent trip report, thanks. Given that you ticked a couple of 7c’s second go- how far away from 8a/+ being a reasonable in-a-day prospect do you feel?
Cheers Guy, good stats as always!
I think the biggest thing between me and a 1 day redpoint of an 8th graded route is my head. I thought that once I ticked 8a it wouldn't seem to be quite such a barrier but i've got three in the bag now and they still seem a scary prospect.
I need to change my mental approach, I presume it will be hard- maybe too hard- so I don't try, instead I need to ignore that and at least have a go. I remember working a 7b in the Wye Valley Nelson Mandela (7b) several years ago. I tried the moves and thought there was no way I could redpoint it, it felt way, way too hard. Regardless, the grade was within my current ability so I tied in for a go, and redpointed it. I need to do that on harder routes, ignore the doubts and at least try!
Also having a partner that can work it with me would be good, as much as I love climbing with Mrs Dandan, our grade disparity means i'm almost always climbing hard on my own, so to speak. There will potentially be up to 3 other '8' climbers in Margalef with us in October so that should help things, I don't want to put 8a in a day as a 555 goal, but it will be in the back of my mind.
Pretty poor week just gone, I talked to Tom about topping up the aero before Margalef (although there is some on the plan closer to the holiday, I clearly didn't look very hard at the plan) and he suggested destroying myself for a fortnight now with loads of extra aero to give things a kick. I tried to do so but I think I just needed a rest after Kaly, I felt weak and useless, doing sessions on what are normally warmup routes, plus my finger got sore again so I tried to listen to my body and eased off.
M: Nothing
T: Indoor Boulder; System board doubles, 2 reps with 5 sec rest between, 6 sets with 4 min rest. I did this on my warm-up route, felt really weak.
W: Fingerboard; New session, based on 10s 1 hand max hang on 20mm edge with weight/assistance. Then do timed reps of 6,7,7,7,7,6 sec hangs, 2 min rest between. Did it at +0 LH and -2kg RH due to iffy finger.
Antag theraband
T: Indoor Boulder; system board triples, 6 reps.
Also did 1min on 1min off x10 circuit board, incorporating mono and 2 finger holds where possible. This was really good, forearms were busted for days but the practical application of monos instead of just hanging off slings or fingerboards felt really worthwhile. As I have been building up to it slowly, the monos were hard but not painful or tweaky.
F: Indoor Boulder; sacked off the planned session due to tiredness and had a mooch about, actually ticked my first ever BoulderShack V5 after some shouting and a bit of skin loss, their comp wall grades are ridiculous!
S: Dorset Bolt Fund rebolting day at Battleship. This was a lot of fun, so good to see 20 people all pitching in to improve things for everyone. As I brought my chainsaw along, I became part of the path maintenance crew, we had large logs and steel stakes to make proper steps with and so I was committed to chopping the logs down to length.
The progress was fantastic, Marti (Mr DBF) had really thought about it so as well as the logs and stakes there was a roll of loose weave hessian for retaining the dirt and even grass seed to encourage growth on the steps!
Hopefully we can get more of these occasions happening, there are plenty more paths in need of attention, not to mention the bolts.
S: Nothing
I've been looking at the comments for Niña Mala (8b) on 8a.nu and it seems I might have picked a bit of a stiff one for my first 8b. I'm not worried so much about the difficulty, but I have this theory that a 'hard' 8b can feel harder than an 'easy' 8b+ and yet they both rightly retain their grades. I think it's to do with quality of moves, variety of sequences, things like that. I think of those 'hard for the grade' routes as something like "an 8b for 8c climbers", so something that is the right grade but perhaps requires a bit of spare skill/power/stamina/luck etc to be do-able.
It got me thinking that perhaps, as stupid as it sounds, I should switch my focus to the route to the right which shares the first few bolts, Flash Over (8b+) as it is considered generally softer and also less cruxy. Ok, it's another grade up, but if my theory holds water, it may feel easier, especially if my endurance is in good shape then it might be a more likely prospect.
new STG:
* keep finger happy by being more selective with indoor holds and routes
* More neck stretches
MTG: (next few months)
* Progress on Nina mala/flash over in Margalef
* Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger back doing OK
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Illusions (7c) - TICK
* Megalomania (7c) - TICK
* Sirene (7c) - TICK
* Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c)
* Detonator (7c)
* Tennessee (7c)
* Prison Sex (7c+)
* Nightmare Scenario (7c)
* The Breathing Method (8a)
* Monoculture (7c+)
LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 2 done and 2 more booked!
* tick 3 x 8a - 2/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook) - 4/10
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year
In reply to Dandan:
Are you the same person I saw mentioned on a lattice thread on FB as having the best dead hang figures? BTW if you're hoping to get to Kilnsey this year you'd better make it soon...
Are you the same person I saw mentioned on a lattice thread on FB as having the best dead hang figures? BTW if you're hoping to get to Kilnsey this year you'd better make it soon...
1
In reply to Tyler:
Hehe, I wish, my racing snake figure weighs in at 65kg so although I have a great headline figure of +4kg or 106% bodyweight on the hang, i'm only pulling a total of 69kg which, for example is the same as AJM can pull too, he just likes cake more than me
Yeah I feel I might have missed the boat on Kilnsey, fingers crossed for an Indian summer maybe?
Hehe, I wish, my racing snake figure weighs in at 65kg so although I have a great headline figure of +4kg or 106% bodyweight on the hang, i'm only pulling a total of 69kg which, for example is the same as AJM can pull too, he just likes cake more than me
Yeah I feel I might have missed the boat on Kilnsey, fingers crossed for an Indian summer maybe?
In reply to Dandan:
I've just read Adam Ondra only manages 112% so 106 is pretty much off the scale as far as I am concerned. Might be best to wait for the spring for Kilnsey now but don't forget Malham is open for business year round.
I've just read Adam Ondra only manages 112% so 106 is pretty much off the scale as far as I am concerned. Might be best to wait for the spring for Kilnsey now but don't forget Malham is open for business year round.
2
In reply to Dandan:
Yeah, my best effort on the edge in Tom's basement was 72.5kg, so a higher total mass pulled, but as a percentage of bodyweight much lower! (93%)
I've just gone and ordered myself a Lattice Edge, so will now have access to the same test metric at home.
I expect to be humiliated, especially if I adopt the prescribed half-crimp grip position...
Yeah, my best effort on the edge in Tom's basement was 72.5kg, so a higher total mass pulled, but as a percentage of bodyweight much lower! (93%)
I've just gone and ordered myself a Lattice Edge, so will now have access to the same test metric at home.
I expect to be humiliated, especially if I adopt the prescribed half-crimp grip position...
1
In reply to Tyler and Ally:
The problem is, now that I know pulls of 80+kg are possible, I want to be able to do it...
The problem is, now that I know pulls of 80+kg are possible, I want to be able to do it...
2
In reply to Dandan:
Yep, 'cos finger strength is definitely holding you back!
> The problem is, now that I know pulls of 80+kg are possible, I want to be able to do it...
Yep, 'cos finger strength is definitely holding you back!
2
In reply to Dandan:
Slightly more - they said ~67-8kg in the end on the test sheet.
But I do like cake. Mmmmm... Cake.....
> i'm only pulling a total of 69kg which, for example is the same as AJM can pull too, he just likes cake more than me
Slightly more - they said ~67-8kg in the end on the test sheet.
But I do like cake. Mmmmm... Cake.....
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
Results are for sharing.....
> I've just gone and ordered myself a Lattice Edge, so will now have access to the same test metric at home.
Results are for sharing.....
In reply to Ally Smith:
Is that a full on board then? Or just a rung? I can't see just a rung on the website.
> I've just gone and ordered myself a Lattice Edge, so will now have access to the same test metric at home.
Is that a full on board then? Or just a rung? I can't see just a rung on the website.
In reply to guy127917:
Nothing much again. I have got into the habit of doing pull ups when I walk past the pull up bar. Otherwise that's it. Really hoping to get down the wall this week.
Nothing much again. I have got into the habit of doing pull ups when I walk past the pull up bar. Otherwise that's it. Really hoping to get down the wall this week.
In reply to guy127917:
Ok some quick 555 goals.....
555 pull ups before the date
555 press ups before the date
They should be easy but I tried to do some earlier and they make my injuries hurt!
Ok some quick 555 goals.....
555 pull ups before the date
555 press ups before the date
They should be easy but I tried to do some earlier and they make my injuries hurt!
2
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks for another incisive set of stats Guy. Now I come to write up my last week I understand how I was coming down with something by last weekend. It was Day 11 on with no rest days!
M - black grub as per last week
T - core and conditioning
W - campus and bouldering
T - wall lead to 7a+
F - boulder volume Climbing Unit
S - bouldering burbage south. Too sticky and conditions bad for grit but did a combination of orange/red circuit
S - starting to ail by now. Popped over to The P to see if there was anothing that would make a local workable FC555 tick that didn't require a spotter. Started work on a 7A+ and a 7B -
One of which might do the trick. Odd venue but very convenient.
Thanks for another incisive set of stats Guy. Now I come to write up my last week I understand how I was coming down with something by last weekend. It was Day 11 on with no rest days!
M - black grub as per last week
T - core and conditioning
W - campus and bouldering
T - wall lead to 7a+
F - boulder volume Climbing Unit
S - bouldering burbage south. Too sticky and conditions bad for grit but did a combination of orange/red circuit
S - starting to ail by now. Popped over to The P to see if there was anothing that would make a local workable FC555 tick that didn't require a spotter. Started work on a 7A+ and a 7B -
One of which might do the trick. Odd venue but very convenient.
In reply to Tyler:
I make that as being 9 per day of each. I reckon that's doable. So put me down for that.
> Ok some quick 555 goals.....
> 555 pull ups before the date
> 555 press ups before the date
I make that as being 9 per day of each. I reckon that's doable. So put me down for that.
In reply to guy127917:
Hi Fit Clubbers
Mind if I join you? I've been flirting with the idea for a while, but just about to go through a bit of a work change -aiming to get a bit more time for climbing, so now seems a good time to get stuck in. Hopefully Fit Club can keep me on track and stop me wasting my new found freedom! My main aim is to get in the habit of having a more structured approach to both doing and recording climbing/running/training.
STG: By end of October
1. Get in to the habit of regular shoulder rehab
2. E1 on Grit
3. E1 on Limestone
4. F6A in Font
5. 5km at 5m00s/km pace
MTG: By end of 2017
1. E2 on Grit
2. E2 &/or F6b on Limestone
3. M6 onsight
4. 10km at 5m30s/km pace
5. An 'El Cap' day (880m of climbing in a day)
M-LTG: By April 2018
1. Scottish VII
2. 5 Routes of ED1 or above
3. Haute-Route Cham-Zermatt
LTG: By Oct 2018
1. E3 on 5 diff rock types
2. F7a
3. M7 onsight
4. Half Marathon in sub-1hr30
5. Sandstone trail in sub-10hr
Look forward to posting tomorrow (this week has not been a productive one!)
Cheers
Tom
Hi Fit Clubbers
Mind if I join you? I've been flirting with the idea for a while, but just about to go through a bit of a work change -aiming to get a bit more time for climbing, so now seems a good time to get stuck in. Hopefully Fit Club can keep me on track and stop me wasting my new found freedom! My main aim is to get in the habit of having a more structured approach to both doing and recording climbing/running/training.
STG: By end of October
1. Get in to the habit of regular shoulder rehab
2. E1 on Grit
3. E1 on Limestone
4. F6A in Font
5. 5km at 5m00s/km pace
MTG: By end of 2017
1. E2 on Grit
2. E2 &/or F6b on Limestone
3. M6 onsight
4. 10km at 5m30s/km pace
5. An 'El Cap' day (880m of climbing in a day)
M-LTG: By April 2018
1. Scottish VII
2. 5 Routes of ED1 or above
3. Haute-Route Cham-Zermatt
LTG: By Oct 2018
1. E3 on 5 diff rock types
2. F7a
3. M7 onsight
4. Half Marathon in sub-1hr30
5. Sandstone trail in sub-10hr
Look forward to posting tomorrow (this week has not been a productive one!)
Cheers
Tom
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