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Assisted-Braking Belay Devices: Everything You Need To Know Gear News

© Edelrid

UKClimbing recently ran a comprehensive comparative review of belay devices, in which the EDELRID Jul² scored highly, winning an award for 'Good Value'. Whilst EDELRID are well known for their extensive range of ropes, the extent of their belay device offerings may not be so familiar to you.

They include the Eddy (EN 15151-1 compliant), which offers full assisted-braking functionality. Alongside a range of devices including the Jul², Mega Jul, Mega Jul Sport and Micro Jul (EN 15151-2 compliant) that offer additional safeguards above and beyond a standard tuber device, when the device is correctly operated and the rope is held in the correct position by the belayer.

EDDY

Easy-to-operate semi-automatic belay device with assisted braking and maximum safety for sport and indoor climbing.

  • Controlled descent with an emergency brake system eliminates the "panic pull" syndrome
  • Large lowering lever to ensure controlled descents
  • Simple and safe, easy to thread, logical operation (shown on device)
  • Suitable for 9.0 - 11.0 mm diameter ropes
  • Weight: 360 g

JUL²

    Innovative belay device with high braking performance for single ropes. The optimized Mega Jul geometry ensures easy and secure belaying even with thicker ropes.

    • Body made of high-quality stainless steel
    • Optimized geometry ensures easy operation even for beginners
    • High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls
    • Rope can be paid out faster to a leader by holding device in the "open" position with the thumb
    • Perfect handling, even for ropes with larger diameter
    • Suitable for 8.9 –11.0 mm single ropes
    • Weight: 105 g

    In this video EDELRID developer Richard Heinz shows you how to use the JUL² belay device, as well as what makes it so special.

    MEGA JUL

    Our most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability.

    • High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls
    • Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner
    • For belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for abseiling
    • Rope can be paid out faster to a leader by holding device in the "open" position with the thumb
    • Suitable for 7.8 - 10.5 mm ropes
    • Robust solid stainless steel construction
    • Weight: 65g

    The Mega Jul is one of the most versatile belay devices on the market. In this video, developer Simon Graf tells us what the Mega Jul makes so special.

    MEGA JUL SPORT

    The sport climbing version of our award-winning Mega Jul Designed with a specific geometry for sport climbing for slicker belaying, including with thicker ropes, or for trad climbing with double ropes.

    • For belaying a leader or abseiling
    • Robust solid stainless steel construction
    • High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls
    • Rope can be paid out faster to a leader by holding device in the "open" position with the thumb
    • Suitable for 7.8 - 11.0 mm rope
    • Weight: 88g

    MICRO JUL

    A compact, ultra-light belay and abseil device for half ropes and twin ropes. The only suitable device for use with the Flycatcher 6.9 mm.

    • For belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for abseiling
    • Robust solid stainless steel construction
    • High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls
    • Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner
    • Rope can be paid out faster to a leader by holding device in the "open" position with the thumb
    • Suitable for 6.9 - 8.0 mm double and twin ropes and single ropes up to 8.9 mm
    • Weight: 62g

    OHM

    Assisted-braking resistor to increase rope friction when there is a large weight difference between belayer and lead climber. In the event of a fall, the OHM increases the amount of rope friction so that a lighter belayer can hold a heavier lead climber without difficulty.

    • Belayer requires significantly less hand braking force to arrest a fall
    • Lowering a heavier climber is much easier to control
    • OHM is attached at the first bolt in the safety chain
    • Should a lead climber fall at the first bolt, the OHM significantly reduces the risk of a possible ground fall
    • Rope handling when belaying a lead climber not affected (no additional friction when paying out rope)
    • Recommended weight difference (lead climber > belayer): 10 - 40 kg
    • Minimum weight belayer: 40 kg
    • For single ropes from 8.9 - 11 mm
    • Weight: 360 g

    In this video EDELRID product manager Philippe Westenberger takes you through the features and operation of the OHM assisted-braking resistor.




    23 Jun, 2017
    Hs anybody tried this, my partner is nearly 4 stone lighter than me?
    //www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=3637. As a bit of background to the video itself, we missed out on something of an opportunity when I was being belayed by our Assistant Developer Martin McKenna, who weighs 54kg. I weigh in/around the 78kg mark and it would suffice to say that the fall (both mine downwards and his upwards) was something of a spectacle. Unfortunately he wasn't around on the day of filming, so Alan had to step in. Whilst he still weighs 10kg less than me, and it's obvious that the device still has an impact, it's nothing compared to seeing Martin being extruded through the first bolt!
    23 Jun, 2017
    Not sure it is 10kg actually, more like 3 or 4!
    23 Jun, 2017
    One thing that was missing from the review was what Awesome Walls made of it? I can't see a wall being happy either with users removing in situ draws nor doubling up with a draw and ohm in one hanger. Did you have a conversation with them about how it would work in practice? Would it require them to replace the first in situ draw with a permanent ohm?
    27 Jun, 2017
    Yes. I regularly use it. I'm 17-18st whereas partners are in the region of 12-13. They previously had to modify their belay style loads and would hit the first clip if I took a big lob. Now they report that they belay me like someone of their own weight and we can both relax more while climbing. It just works. Cheers
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