In The Science of Climbing Training, top Spanish climbing coach Sergio Consuegra provides an evidence-based approach to training for climbing. It is designed to help you improve climbing performance, whether you're taking the next step in your training as you work towards your project, or if you're a coach looking to optimise your athletes' training. 

Split into three sections, the book looks at how different training methods are governed by the physiological and biomechanical processes in the body; how to make improvements in specific areas, such as finger strength and endurance, as well as looking at injury prevention; and how to fit it all together into a training plan which can help you achieve your climbing goals. 

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Sergio's inspiration for the book

My beginning in climbing was with trad mountain routes (long and easy but exposed climbing). I always said the grade was easy to achieve – you just had to train, and what was truly difficult was mind factor in the mountains.

A few years later I started training really hard; I started getting injured and my climbing ability didn't improve that much. I noticed that the methods of the coaches in my climbing gym were a long way from what I studied at university (I hold a degree in physical activity and sport sciences), so I decided to start researching about climbing performance and applying updated training methods to conditioning, injury prevention, mobility and climbing. I discovered there is an important gap between the science of physical conditioning and the coaches that work in climbing gyms.

Any climber who wants to escape from a performance plateau, any climber tired of getting injured and every climbing coach looking to optimise their athletes' training will find this book useful.

It includes the most innovative and scientifically validated training methods – such as velocity-based strength training, blood-flow restriction to improve local endurance, local vibration to enhance mobility, and, rather than it being based on my own experience as a climber, the book is entirely based on what science says about performance – how the body responds, what works well and what doesn't.

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