Rab Mythic Alpine Light Jacket £265

The lightest piece in Rab's Mythic range, the Mythic Alpine Light offers a whole lot of warmth for its low weight, making it a real mountain minimalist, a jacket equally suited to backpacking or summer alpine climbing, summer and bridge seasons in the UK hills, or winter layering. It's an effective hybrid of high quality down and premium synthetic insulation, each zoned to maximise the jacket's performance and relative durability, and considering all this we'd say it comes at a pretty reasonable price.

In this lightweight jackets review the Mythic Alpine Light hits the sweet spot between lightness, warmth and affordability - a worthy winner of our coveted Best in Test.

How light is it?

At 265g for our size L jacket (Rab say 252g size M), this is the second lightest jacket on review, making it perfect for more weight-conscious uses. It comes with a stuff sack, rather than stowing into one of its own pockets. While the latter would have been our preference for convenience, the main thing is probably that the size when stuffed away is pretty tiny, making this an attractive choice if you're pushed for pack space.

Fit

The Mythic Alpine Light is available in both men's and women's fit. It's fairly close-cut, and in my size L I've room to wear it over a couple of layers such as a t-shirt and midweight fleece, but not to use it like a belay jacket on top of several other items - for which you would probably have to go up a size from your usual. I do find the fit in the sleeves a bit restrictive, particularly with a bent elbow, and there's some hem lift with raised arms. Overall, this is not a jacket that's cut particularly well for climbing or scrambling in - but then you probably wouldn't want to use it like that anyway since it's not tough enough.

With plenty of length in the body the hem drops well below waist level, eliminating cold spots around the midriff, while the collar sits nice and high to keep your neck warm. The hood has a close fit for snugness, so if you're wearing it with a helmet then it'll have to go under rather than over. There's no size adjustment on the hood, and no structure beyond a simple stretch binding, so it's fine in calm conditions but flappy in the wind. Hood-wise I wouldn't have expected anything more substantial on a jacket this light, but if you like an adjustable hood it's worth noting that some of the heavier options on test here do offer one.

Insulation and fabric

Rab have used 900FP European Goose Down, very high quality stuff that has a brilliant loft, and with 80g of it in a size M jacket there's enough fill to make the Mythic Alpine Light really quite toasty for something this light. We think it's warmer than its marginally lighter Montane rival. Even though this is the highest fill-power down in the review there is only so much you can do with under 100g of it, and jackets with considerably more will beat it for warmth. To boost its damp weather performance and help resist clumping the down is treated with a Nikwax Fluorocarbon-Free Hydrophobic Finish - always useful in the UK. It's held in little square stitch-through baffles, and with this much stitching there will be lots of cold spots; as with the unstructured hood, I'd see this as par for the course with an ultralight down jacket, not a criticism.

Complementing the down are zoned areas of Primaloft Gold insulation in the cuffs, the shoulders, and parts of the hood. This offers improved performance in places that see higher wear and the potential for more dampness - a clever combination of different sorts of insulation that I think works extremely well.

Outside is an ultra-thin 10D Pertex Quantum fabric, which has a good degree of wind resistance. While it seems reasonably tough for its thinness, this is definitely not the jacket to go rock climbing or scrambling in, and its high fill power down will need looking after if it's to maintain its loft. After several months of use a few wisps of down have migrated through the stitching in one or two places.

Features

You get two zipped hand pockets, positioned high enough to be usable with a harness or rucksack hipbelt, but in an age when we all carry a phone it's a shame there's not also a chest pocket. All the zips are very lightweight, and while I've not yet had a problem with them I do wonder how long the main zip will last. There's no double zipper either, something that makes belaying that bit easier in some of the heavier jackets reviewed here. If you want something this light then compromises have to be made somewhere - and it's features.

Ethics and environment

With 100% recycled fabrics, a PFC-free DWR, and RDS-certified down, the Mythic Alpine Light has very decent sustainability credentials.

Montane Alpine 850 Nano £300

The Montane Alpine 850 Nano is the lightest and most packable jacket in this group test, and since we're particularly interested in saving weight it really is the one to beat. But there's more to it than a negligible weight alone, because this fantastic jacket also boasts a great cut, a high quality down fill (with the added advantage of gold particles - we kid you not), and the extra benefit of a hybrid insulation that also includes high performance Primaloft Gold for improved moisture management.

How light is it?

At a scanty 220g in size M the Alpine 850 Nano is ridiculously light for the warmth it provides, undercutting its near competitors in this group test and coming in at around half the weight of the heavier models. If you're primarily interested in lightness and packability then it needs a serious look despite the price tag. On the other hand, if warmth or durability are more your concerns then it's worth highlighting that there's only so much of either that a jacket that weighs so little can provide, versus beefier (and in some cases cheaper) alternatives.

One bonus of the jacket's remarkably tiny weight is that it has actually encouraged me to carry it more often than not, just in case. It's something I've packed countless times throughout the spring, summer and autumn, and being so easily carried helps make the Alpine 850 Nano highly versatile, because whether you're hillwalking, camping, climbing or mountaineering, you're going to find it easy to fit in even the tiniest pack. I could also see it being used for running and cycling, especially for mountain marathons and bike packing adventures, where space is at a premium. It'd be the height of luxury during something like the OMM, where a weightier down jacket wouldn't be justifiable. And carried as an emergency backup on a winter hill run it's hardly going to tip the scales.

Fit

The Alpine 850 Nano is available in both men's and women's versions. It punches above its weight in terms of warmth and its trim fit is one of the main reasons why, making it extremely efficient at keeping warm air in. So far I've always used it as an outer layer, but for mountaineering or winter hillwalking it could also double up as part of your layering system, underneath a shell on cold alpine starts or icy Scottish Munros.

Despite being so close-fitting it still features a fantastic freedom of movement, and on us there is minimal (if any) hem lift. There's also an under helmet hood, which is - much like the rest of the jacket - very fitted. As with the Rab alternative, the hood is not adjustable and can't be cinched tight to resist the wind; there's only so much you can expect from a 220g jacket.

Insulation and fabric

It features a premium 850 fill power goose down that provides superior loft and plenty of warmth for its minimal weight (and 60g of fill really isn't much). This down is bonded with gold particles - a feature some other brands are also beginning to use - and this offers a chemical-free way to make the down hydrophobic, with the added benefit that it's much longer lasting than your typical PFC-free treatment. In the past I would always have suggested using synthetics in wetter conditions, but my opinion on this is changing, as modern treatments have improved significantly. Gold particle bonding does appear to be the next phase of development, and I've noticed its benefit most whilst working and sweating hard, when it allows moisture vapour to pass through very effectively, without noticeably absorbing it.

The Alpine 850 Nano also uses Primaloft Gold in high moisture areas (although there's no actual gold in that - it's just really good), and this helps it manage moisture well.

Features

The Alpine 850 Nano comes with a separate stuff sack, but we much prefer it when the method of storage is integrated into the jacket (i.e. within a reversible pocket). In the case of the Alpine 850 Nano I suspect the decision not to do the storage pocket thing might have stemmed from a desire not to add any extra weight to the jacket, which is good from a headline figure perspective but a bit of a shame from a convenience point of view. Aside from this the jacket is suitably simple, with a couple of zipped hand pockets and an elasticated hem.

Black Diamond Approach Down Hoody £320

The second lightest insulated jacket in the Black Diamond range, this classic offering had a total revamp to its fit and design in 2023. Providing excellent warmth for its weight, the Approach Down Hoody is an easy choice for a wide range of outdoors endeavours, from chilly walks, to winter bouldering, and - with the addition of a layer beneath, or a shell on top - even colder and more serious alpine undertakings. With a combination of high quality down insulation, durable ripstop fabric, and a reliable PFC-Free DWR coating, this jacket is a great grab-and-go option, albeit one that comes at a price.

How light is it?

At 288g for the size S women's jacket, and 324g for the size L men's jacket, (Black Diamond give a weight of 285g for the women's size S, and 304g for the men's size M), the Approach Hoody may not be quite up there with the likes of Rab's Mythic Alpine Light or the Montane Alpine 850 Nano, but it's a lot warmer and should be plenty light enough for most folk. If saving every last gram is a priority then Black Diamond's alternative offering, the Deploy, is claimed to be the lightest down jacket on the market (at under 150g).

It stuffs comfortably into its own front left chest pocket, always a nice touch for those who tend to misplace stuff sacks, and can be clipped to a harness through a carabiner clip loop, another useful feature, especially for those who might prefer to climb without an insulating layer, but would prefer to belay in warmth.

Fit

Coming in both men's and women's fits, the Approach Hoody is close cut - with the women's slightly more tailored then the men's - but with both loose enough to wear over multiple layers without feeling like you're inside a stuff sack. The sleeves are a good length, and offer enough elastication at the wrists to keep the wind out without ever feeling tight. Articulation is good across the back and arms, allowing the arms to move freely without any restriction across the back or near the elbows, but could be better in terms of hem lift when raising both arms up. As with all the rest, this isn't a great jacket for actually climbing in.

When your hands aren't in the air, the hem sits nice and low, meaning there are no cold spots around the waist, and the collar sits high enough around the neck and close enough to keep it warm, without ever feeling tight. The hood, which is elasticated at the sides, offers a close fit which keeps the wind out and the warmth in. A drawcord at the back of the hood allows for further adjustment for those particularly cold and breezy days, with another drawcord at the waist allowing you to seal both ends shut for ultimate insulation.

Whilst Black Diamond don't claim that the hood is helmet compatible, a helmet fits quite comfortably under the hood, and allows full movement without any restriction of vision. Whilst adding a helmet under the hood results in an extra centimetre or two of lift at the hem, this isn't particularly noticeable in use.

To have so much adjustability at such a light weight is quite a feat, and is something that sets the Approach Down Hoody apart from some others in this test.

Insulation and fabric

The Approach Down Hoody has a generous 130g of 800FP Goose Down (men's size M). This has excellent loft, giving the jacket a thick and substantial feel for its weight. Compared to the skimpier jackets in this group test, that's an impressive amount of insulation, the third most out of all the jackets on review here, and yet the Approach is still the third lightest on test. It's better suited to stand-alone winter use than the Rab and Montane offerings, whilst not being hugely heavier.

At just 10 denier, the fabric probably shouldn't feel as resilient as it does, but having worn the jacket during bouldering sessions, whilst out in snag-heavy woodland, and even in the midst of over-excited dogs - the sworn enemy of thin face fabrics - both jackets have held up remarkably well, with not even the tiniest of snags or rips between them. Narrow baffles hold the insulation in place well, and neither of us have noticed clumping or cold spots in either of our jackets.

The Approach Down Hoody performs similarly well in wet weather, with a permanently bonded PFC-Free DWR coating that is both environmentally friendly and - claim BD - more durable than others on the market. These claims ring true in practice, with the jacket proving breathable and holding up remarkably well in showers.

Black Diamond offer the Approach Hoody in a good range of colours, five for both the women's and men's jacket. It was particularly pleasing to find that the colours offered in the women's range expanded beyond the pinks and turquoises that they can sometimes be confined to, in terms of both the face fabric and the lining. 

Features

Two generously sized hand pockets keep hands warm, and can easily accommodate a pair of large insulated gloves on the one side and a hat on the other. A single chest pocket is on offer for a mobile phone or a map. Large interior pockets on both sides are an excellent addition for the climbers among us, offering enough room to fit a shoe each in order to warm them up on cold days.

Drawcords in the hem and hood are both adjustable with one hand, and offer more adjustability than many of the jackets in this selection. The YKK zips all work as expected, with no snagging, but the front zip only works in one direction, meaning you'll have to hike the jacket up over your belay loop if you're wearing this jacket whilst belaying. Not a deal breaker, but something worth noting if you're looking for a jacket for that purpose.

Ethics and environment

The Approach Down Hoody offers a PFC-Free DWR coating which is applied using a process that permanently bonds the finish to the fibres of the jacket without using any water or releasing any hazardous discharge.

100% of down used in Black Diamond products is RDS Certified, and Black Diamond work with Allied Down to ensure that the down they use complies with animal welfare best practices, meaning that our jackets came with a tag allowing us to trace the origin of the down inside them.

But unlike some of the other jackets in our review, the Approach Down Hoody doesn't list any of its fabrics as being recycled.

Mountain Equipment Earthrise Jacket £200

Since most brands make a narrow-baffled down jacket, it takes something different to stand out. One way to do so is to create a more sustainable product. The Earthrise Hooded Jacket is a great example of a product combining environmentally conscious materials and manufacturing with mountain-ready performance.

How light is it?

At a comparatively hefty 455g (men's Medium) this is very far from the lightest model on test here, and won't appeal to the more discerning gram counter; but for less weight-critical uses its relative durability may be a trump card. If you want a light-ish down jacket to take to the crag, or up hills, or on a camping trip, without costing the earth in either sense, then take a look.

Fit

Coming in both a men's and women's version, the Earthrise has a technical feel, with a slim cut and a clean silhouette. This is a down jacket that isn't overly complicated - Mountain Equipment has worked on getting the basics right, and in this they've succeeded. It's not got a super-active cut that lets you reach high without the bottom hem moving an inch, but it's totally functional for your non-climbing outdoor activities.

The women's model fits nicely around the hips, but doesn't feel restrictive - there is still space for layers. The back of the jacket offers a dropped hem, meaning when you bend over or reach you're not left with a cold patch at the waist; and the hood has a good clean shape, and will fit nicely over a streamlined helmet for belay duty. 

Insulation and fabric

With 700 fill power down, the insulation in the Earthrise does not compete gram for gram with premium fills in some of the more expensive jackets. However you do get a generous 155g (men's Large) of it, so the Earthrise still provides a good level of insulation for a stand-alone jacket worn on cool spring days and summer evenings. In colder weather it is trim enough to work as a mid layer under a shell; but despite being a lot heavier than some on test we'd say it's still a bit lightweight to be standing around in trying your gritstone boulder project on a freezing December day.

Our review team have used a number of Earthrise jackets over some time. Although we were initially concerned about how the recycled material would fare against rough rock and general wear, even the older model is still going strong with no rips to report.

Features

There are two good sized hand pockets that will accommodate a reasonably big insulated glove, and you also get a single chest pocket for carrying a phone - not something on offer from some rivals. The previous women's version had no chest pocket, so we think the addition of this to the current model is an advance (women use phones too). The small internal pocket has a flat, soft, low-profile zipper and is barely noticeable when wearing the jacket.

When it comes to using the Earthrise Hooded Jacket for climbing there are some helpful features. Firstly the main zip has a two-way zipper with a push stud closure at the bottom. This means you can pull on the jacket at a belay, and unzip from the bottom to expose your belay loop and device. Plus if you need a bit of extra warmth you're able to button up the bottom of the jacket under your belay plate.

One advantage the Earthrise has over some lighter alternatives is that it stuffs into a pocket which can be clipped to a harness on multi-pitch climbs; no faffy stuff sack required. Packing it away is a squeeze, but once achieved it's about the size of a 1L bottle, and not too much hassle to carry with a trad rack. The stuff pocket also has two good sized attachment loops and the cord on the zipper is long enough that both cord and attachment loop can be clipped together so the stuff pocket doesn't open when clipped to the back of a harness.

Ethics and environment

Here's the big selling point! ME says the Earthrise has a lower environmental impact than its products consisting of virgin components, and a lower carbon emission than any other jacket they make. 

The outer fabric is 100% recycled 20D ripstop polyamide, that comes treated with a PFC-free DWR and gets the thumbs up in terms of overall durability for the weight. This is a big improvement compared to the lightweight recycled fabric you might have found on jackets a few years ago. It's filled with 100% recycled down, all of which comes from post-consumer goods like clothing and bedding. And last but by no means least, it's made in a Fair Wear Foundation audited factory.

Mammut Broad Peak IN Hooded Jacket Men £290

Middle of the pack weight-wise, the Broad Peak IN Hooded Jacket is well-made and offers more seasonal adaptability than some lighter jackets in the test. I've enjoyed having this for a cold and breezy Munro top in summer, or chillier days in autumn. With a bit more warmth, it's also great for cool Scottish summer nights around camp, and it should transition nicely into winter for walking on those crisp cold days. Its broad usability makes it appealing for those looking for a "jack of all trades" and its tailored fit means it's worth considering for those with a slimmer build. On the other hand, the price may put some people off.

How light is it?

At 383g in men's size Medium, the Broad Peak IN Hooded Jacket is a comparative heavyweight compared to the ultralights featured in this review. If you're counting grams - think backpacking, bikepacking, or summer mountaineering - that will count as a drawback. However it has obvious advantages too, and because there's a lot more down inside it's significantly warmer than the skimpier models on test here.

Fit

The jacket comes in both men's and women's versions, both described as Mammut's regular fit. However, it's more tailored and not as boxy as some designs, which I appreciate with my slimmer build. On me there's enough room for layering a mid-layer underneath if you want to wear it as an outer jacket. Despite this layering space, the jacket maintains a streamlined look, with room in the shoulders and some tailoring in the waist, avoiding the baggy fit I often find with other jackets in this area.

There is a good level of articulation, allowing for decent freedom of movement. It's not an ultra-active fit, so there is some hem lift. However, for general mountaineering - where you often have your arms raised but full range of motion isn't critical - it performs well. A slight hem drop offers a little cold protection for the waistline when bent over.

The elasticated hood is snug enough to use without a helmet but can also fit over a low-profile one when standing at a belay. However, it isn't designed for climbing, where greater head mobility is required.

Insulation and Fabric

The jacket uses a lofty 800-fill-power hydrophobic down, with 115g spread evenly across the jacket, giving a good amount of warmth and without clumping or creating cold spots. Thanks to the hydrophobic finish I've felt comfortable wearing it in damp conditions, though I'll rely on it mostly for dry days aside from brief, light rain.

The outer fabric is a lightweight 20-denier Pertex Quantum, which allows the down to fully loft for a warm, puffy feel. It's durable enough for general mountaineering, though not ideal for rough rock climbs. I initially noticed some down escaping through the fabric, but this hasn't been a recurring issue with use.

The DWR coating provides light rain resistance but will need regular re-treating, so as with most down garments I'd mainly save it for drier outings.

Features

The feature set is well considered. The two handwarmer pockets are compatible with backpacks and harnesses, though they're slightly smaller than standard handwarmer pockets, so they aren't ideal for stowing larger items. One of these pockets doubles as an integrated stow pocket, allowing the jacket to pack down small - though as with many similar designs, stuffing it in can be a struggle.

On the chest there is an external chest pocket. The 2-way full length YKK zipper allows flexibility to use over a harness at a belay. The one-hand adjustable hem drawstring is easy to use for quick adjustment to the waist fit, while the low-profile elasticated cuffs provide a snug fit. Additionally, there's an internal zipped pocket for more secure storage.

Ethics and Environment

The Broad Peak also has some decent sustainability credentials. There's a PFC-free DWR; all down is responsibly sourced; and it is a registered bluesign and fair wear product. Materials are also listed as recycled although it is unclear what components and percentage of them are.

The North Face Summit Breithorn Hooded Down Jacket £340

The Summit Breithorn down jacket is part of The North Face's Summit series, their most technical wear designed for climbing and mountaineering. This jacket isn't a stripped-back semi-insulator like some of the others on test, but a compromise between weight and warmth that would better favour winter use, with a feature set that's functional in the mountains. The Breithorn comes at a heavyweight price which we suspect may just prove too much of a stretch for many. But it offers a few features that we don't see on some lightweight rivals, and does showcase some top tech when it comes to the down and fabrics used.

How light is it? 

While it's by no means a heavy winter mountain insulator this is still the second heaviest on test, at 470g for a Men's medium and 410g for a women's small (as weighed at home). It is worth mentioning that what you gain in weight, you also gain in warmth, as this is definitely among the warmest jackets on test, matched only by the Berghaus. It might not be ideal as part of an ultralight running or hiking setup but would be well worth taking as a euro ice climbing belay jacket (dry cold conditions) that could be attached to a harness or stuffed in a pack, and carried while climbing. The Breithorn is a great jacket but it's really a midweight, and that's one reason we can't award it a Highly Recommended here (the other being that hefty price tag).

Fit

This jacket comes in both men's and women's sizing. Interestingly The North Face say the Breithorn is a slim fit, which I wouldn't agree with and almost undersells what this jacket is good at, which is pulling over the top of everything to keep the wind out and you warm. I personally think this is a classic regular mountain fit, which can be donned over a soft or hard shell to keep you warm as and when required.

When it comes to moving around in this jacket the regular fit gives you room to do anything you need to at a belay or while setting up a tent. Really good articulation for climbing (no hem lift when you reach up above your head) is always tricky in down jackets due to the baffle construction that is required to hold the down fill, but in general, the Breithorn is a good shape and totally fit for purpose. The hood is fully helmet compatible and comes with a fixed elasticated surround and single toggle adjuster to cinch in when needed. The collar configuration works well and can be zipped up to cover just over the month without poking you in the nostrils on cold days.

The stretch knit cuffs are also worth a mention and create a nice soft seal around your wrist, making pulling gloves over the top easy. 

Insulation and Fabric

The Breithorn is insulated with The North Face's light and techy 800 Fill ProDown. This is a hydrophobic treated down designed to resist absorbing water in damp and humid conditions, which is great for the UK as most of the time it's damp and humid! Keeping 800 fill (or higher) down dry is important not only for performance but also for longevity. Once high-end techy down products get damp they can clump and degrade pretty rapidly, making trying to regenerate their loft tricky.

While we don't know the precise amount of down used here, we do know that it's a generous wodge, putting this jacket at the warmer end of the scale when it comes to this group test, and thus making it less specialist than some of the other super lightweight options. More down is more bulk, which is not going to work for all uses, but it also equates to more warmth, which will obviously be an advantage at times.

The main face fabric used on this jacket is Pertex Y Fuse. This is a technical Pertex fabric made from Y-shaped nylon yarn that interlocks to create a tight ripstop, downproof and water-resistant fabric.

Features

When it comes to features the Breithorn comes well equipped for a jacket of this weight and bulk. On the outside are two good sized hand warmer pockets that come with low-profile easy-to-close zippers. The one chest pocket, that easily accommodates a phone or GPS, again comes with a low profile and easy to close zipper. On the inside of the jacket you get not one, not two, but four dump pockets! That's two static fabric pockets which are ideal for a hat or snacks, and then two stretch mesh dump pockets for gloves, or your mate's hat (because yours is already in the other pockets), or your climbing shoes before that 'try hard' go.

The whole jacket packs into its external hand pocket. In most cases this is a fight but the Breithorn's stuff pocket is almost too big and actually it could be packed down to an even smaller size if you had a separate stuff bag.

One small feature I do think is missing from this jacket is a main two-way zipper. Despite the YKK Vislon front zipper being very nice, it isn't a two-way zipper, so this means you can't open the base of the jacket to belay.

Ethics and Environment

The Down insulation in this jacket is RDS-certificated, which ensures that it's ethically sourced, responsibly produced and traceable. This is a scheme that was originally started by The North Face and which is now used by many manufacturers across the world. The face fabric is 100% recycled Nylon and comes with PFC-free DWR treatment.

Berghaus Mtn Seeker MW Down Hoody £250

The Berghaus MTN Seeker MW Down Hoody is no lightweight, but it's a versatile and no-nonsense jacket suitable for various layering options and colder season use. Some of its features, including the stretch panel fabric, are geared towards mountaineering. The straight cut fit may not be ideal for slimmer builds, but its competitive price is likely to appeal to many.

How light is it?

This jacket weighs 514g in size Medium, placing it at the upper end of the testing field. Disappointingly, Berghaus state 458g for size large, giving us a 12% increase in stated weight with a reduction in size. It's much more of a midweight piece than a true lightweight, and consequently we haven't awarded it a Highly Recommended in this particular group test. If you're backpacking, bikepacking or mountaineering in summer then it may be more weight - indeed, more jacket - than you'll ideally be looking for. On the plus side though, it is robustly made, and with loads more down fill than the genuine lightweights this is a beefier, warmer proposition which will function well as your main jacket even in winter.

Fit

The MTN Seeker also comes in a women's fit. The cut is quite straight across the body; this fits me well in the shoulders, although my slim build means in the lower torso it can feel quite boxy. The cut across the body and arms allows room for an additional midweight fleece or midlayer underneath for colder conditions, making it a solid option for added layering. In general for the increased weight of the jacket I've still only felt equally as warm as in the Mammut Broad Peak. Given their similarities in construction, I put this down primarily to the boxy fit, which means I have slightly more space to heat. If you aren't quite as slim as me you may find this warmer - although the MTN Seeker is still plenty warm.

The articulated cut and stretch panelling across the back and under the arms gives a great amount of freedom of movement and minimal hem lift, and this makes it good for use whilst mountaineering and climbing. In terms of fit for climbing, this jacket is one of the best suited in the review, in fact.

The hood is designed to fit under a helmet but for me the wired peak can be annoying to use in conjunction. This is personal preference but I prefer a low profile elasticated hood for use under a helmet. Without a helmet the fit can be brought in snug with the easy to use rear drawcord, and in windy weather minus a helmet that peak does prove useful.

Fabric and Insulation

The jacket features a high quality 800-fill-power hydrophobic down that's body-mapped to provide warmth in areas it's needed most while allowing me to move naturally. Across the jacket you get a really generous 160g of down, and this provides a good deal of warmth - loads more than in the skimpier alternatives on test.

The 15D Pertex Quantum fabric feels tough for the weight, and its DWR has held up well, effectively beading water in damp conditions. Both this and the 20D stretch panelling are light enough to ensure proper lofting of the down. I did receive this product late into the test so I haven't given it quite the same test of durability as the others - I have already had a small pin puncture in the wrist and some down migrating through the main Pertex fabric. Nothing to cause major alarm but worth being aware of if you are likely to take this climbing, where durability may need to be higher.

Features

A practical three-pocket design, it has two large high-set hand pockets that are easily accessible when wearing a harness or backpack, along with an internal chest pocket for storing valuables. The jacket can be stuffed into one of its handwarmer pockets for neater storage. The packed size is quite bulky, and there's no stow cord to clip it onto a harness (though you could use the zip pull if needed). Low-profile internal cuff gussets fit nicely against the wrist and are glove-compatible. A two-way front zipper allows for use over a harness if belaying on a cold rock route in summer, and the push stud button at the bottom allows you to close the jacket over your belay plate. The hem is dual point adjustable for ease of use.

Ethics and Environment

Berghaus don't give much away in their product description, although there is probably more to shout about than they let on. The Pertex Quantum fabric is 100% recycled and bluesign approved. I had to dig into the ethical materials policy where I found "All down used in Berghaus products must be RDS-certified" - you'd think they'd want to shout about this? All materials are PFC free. It is also supported by Berghaus' Repairhaus which offers free repairs!