In this 12-month test Tom Ripley has used the Phantom Tech HD for the full range of Scottish winter climbing, Continental ice, and summer in the Alps. His verdict? For their combination of low weight, warmth and climbing performance they are hard to beat.

I've had these Scarpa Phantom Tech HD boots for over a year now and have used them in a range of settings from Scottish winter climbing, to Continental ice climbing, to technical summer alpinism. They are a very light boots, but also quite warm, with a durable sole and a precise fit. This makes them perfect for technical winter climbing, and I would be happy to use them for everything in Europe except multi-day climbing in the depths of winter. That said I'm sure you could use them for that, but I would always prefer to use a double boot for such endeavours, as I like to be able to dry my liners overnight.

What are they?

Weighing just 1600g per pair (size 42), the Phantom Tech HD is lightweight for a B3 boot with an integrated, insulated zip-up gaiter. The inner and the gaiter are insulated with Primaloft (Gold for gaiter and Silver for the inner). The gaiter uses HD dry as its waterproof and breathable membrane, which is laminated to the upper with no seams and no gaps where water can penetrate. In my experience the boots are in the quite waterproof category. The Number 8 YKK zip on the gaiter only holds out for so long, and after a day of Scottish bog trotting or being on a slushy glacier in the afternoon sun you will have wet feet. If you use the boots exclusively when it's below freezing this won't be a problem.

Fit

Since not every boot will fit every user equally well, we would always recommend trying on a few pairs. The Phantom Tech HD fits my medium to high volume feet well. As with all mountain boots I use a Superfeet footbed to add support/reduce fatigue after a long day. They have a precise fit, and they have not inhibited my ability to climb ice, snow, rock and mixed ground. I have also done plenty of walking in both the Alps and Scotland in them, and have found them to be very comfy for days on your feet, so in my case this precise feel doesn't come at the expense of general comfort. Typically I wear them with pure merino wool socks (Smartwool Expedition). If I was to use them on an multi day climb I would consider using a vapour barrier sock to keep them from getting soaked with sweat.

The boots use a traditional lacing system (hurrah!) with a plastic toggle that works effectively to isolate the tension of the foot and the ankle. The orange laces the boots come supplied with are tough, which is good as replacing them would be a complete pain, and probably impossible on the side of the mountain. They also seem remarkably un-slippery and it is rare that I have to re-tighten the boots during the course of a day.

My mine gripe with the Phantom Tech is putting them on. It is impossible to open them particularly wide, which means I really have to force my foot in. Not only is this quite annoying but it also seems to damage the back of the uppers, which may eventually result in the backs wearing through, and the boots needing repairing.

Sole

The outsole on the boot has sticky rubber, which grips well on rock, with deep lugs for bite in snow. It's refreshing to see a chunky sole, since some manufactures went through a phase of putting excessively thin soles on their boots. This was great for saving weight but meant they wore out far too fast. After a year of use the soles on the Phantom Tech HD are lasting well, but I have used them predominantly on snowy approaches. I imagine if I'd spent more time wearing them for the walk-in to Beinn Eighe, and less into Valnontey they'd be looking the worse for wear. Hats of to Scarpa for designing them to be resoled.

With crampons

I typically use the Phantom Tech HD on days where I'm planning on wearing crampons for the majority of the climbing, preferring to use a lighter, more nimble boot for summer alpinism with predominantly rock. Consequently I have used the Phantoms with a wide variety of crampons: Petzl Vasaks, Sarkens and Darts; Grivel G12s; and BD Stringers. These all fit very well, with no issues of note. I prefer to use a step-in crampon with a wire bail on this type of boot, but a semi automatic crampon with a plastic cradle works well too.

In conclusion

This is an excellent, warm, lightweight boot that's proved perfect for technical winter and alpine climbing. You would have to be an exceptional winter climber to outgrow the capabilities of these boots. The uppers are reasonably waterproof - perhaps their only failing in this regard being above-zero Scottish bog walk-ins. By the standards of a modern lightweight boot they have a very durable, yet sticky sole, that Scarpa have designed to be easily resole-able. Whilst heavier leather boots like a Scarpa Mont Blanc or La Sportiva Nepal will be more durable and waterproof (as well as cheaper), for their combination of low weight, warmth and climbing performance the Phantom Tech HD is hard to beat.