Scarpa's Instinct collection has become an absolute all-time classic, with four models within the existing range. The Instinc VS-R LV now adds a fifth shoe to this collection. We were curious to see whether or not the fifth addition brought something new, because let's face it, four similar models already seemed a lot. 

Well fear not. Having put it through its paces, we can say the Instinct VS-R LV perfectly complements the rest of the collection. You could say it's like a gateway shoe for the range, to those people who have never traditionally got on with the Instinct.

In Use

Tim: The Instinct VS-R LV is best suited towards bouldering, both indoors and out, as that's where you're going to feel the benefits of its increased sensitivity. If you're a lighter climber, it would also be a great all-rounder as far as sport and even trad climbing are concerned.

Having used the VS-R LV  from indoor bouldering to multi-pitch trad I can safely say this is another purebred Scarpa Instinct shoe, giving you great all-around performance across a range of disciplines.

Penny: I recently reviewed the Drago XT, and the Instinct VS-R LV - perhaps unsurprisingly - felt quite stiff in comparison. They took a little longer to wear in as a result of this. I've found they actually compliment the Drago XT really well because of how different they are. The Instinct VS-R LV are much more supportive, making them better suited towards steeper, edgier rock types whilst bouldering (e.g. limestone, rhyolite etc...). This support also makes them much more suitable for both sport and trad. On the other hand that extra support means that they do feel a lot less sensitive than the Drago XT, although it's worth adding that they do soften up in time (and that very few shoes are as sensitive as the Drago XT, so perhaps it's an unfair comparison to make).

Fit

Despite looking very similar in appearance to the VS-R (ignoring the fact that it's purple), there are actually quite a few small changes within this shoe from that original blue version. These add up to make quite a big difference overall.

Firstly, the LV - Low Volume - in the name might trick you into thinking that the heel height on the LV is lower than the blue VS-R, but that's not the case. The LV heel has the same height as the original blue VS-R, but the big difference is that it's a lot narrower. So you've got the same depth, but the width across the heel is very different from the blue VS-R Instinct.

As you move through the forefoot into the toe box, you'll notice that the volume has been reduced, meaning that your foot sits flatter in this low-volume version. There are pros and cons to this. It does mean that your foot can open up to smear a little bit better, which can lead you to believe that this shoe is softer than the original VS-R, but in reality, it has the same midsole. It's just that your foot's positioned in a different way.

Tim: I find my foot sits flatter in the VS-R LV, and as a result the shoe is slightly more comfortable than the original high volume (and more aggressive toe box) blue VS-R. But then again, this LV version doesn't give you the same 'grab and pull' with your toes on certain angles that the higher volume toe box of the blue VS-R might. 

When it comes to last tension and strap closure, these are all very familiar things that you would find on the original Instinct VS-R, having changed very little in the LV version.

A split sole unit like we see on other Instincts, the sole on this shoe comes with Vibram XS grip rubber, which is Vibram's stickiest compound.

If you're a blue original instinct VS-R wearer, is this shoe going to be right for you? Possibly not! The LV is for those people who want a slightly lower volume, who have a slightly different foot that might not have worked as well with the original VS-R, and who need a slightly different profile to fit their feet. For all those people who loved the original VS-R, you probably just want to stick with that. The LV is for those people who have always wanted to have an Instinct shoe, but have just never fitted the range before.

Penny: The Instinct range has never been a natural fit for me, as they have historically been a little wide - or too high volume. The Instinct VS-R LV resolves both of those issues and will likely open up the Instinct to a lot of people who hadn't been able to wear the Instinct previously (myself included). In this regard the Instinct VS-R LV presents a viable alternative to models such as the La Sportiva Skwama and Tenaya Indalo. When it comes to sizing, I went down a whole size from my standard street shoe size for a performance fit. If you were after something slightly more comfortable then a half size would probably do it.

Features

The Instinct has a tried and tested set of features, including a single power strap which - as we know from many, many years of our own experience at UKC - works. It's single, it's simple and it's really effective.

There are a couple of very small design tweaks, which you could call an evolution from the blue VS-R. One example is that the toe patch now runs right up to the suede on the top of the shoe, hopefully helping with the recurring toe patch peeling issue that can happen on the original blue VS-R.

Summary

The Insinct VS-R LV addresses a need and and fills a hole that none of us really realised the Scarpa Instinct range previously had. This is another great Instinct shoe that provides all-around performance, and should fit many of the people who just didn't fit into the original Instinct range. If you're someone who historically hasn't got on with Instincts, but always wanted a pair, then try them on!