This got me thinking: is it an impossible task? It’s certainly a phrase I’ve used before, but thinking a bit more about it I had to admit that the concept seemed a little flawed – something that is good at one thing (i.e. edging) is surely never going to be equally as good at its opposite (i.e. smearing). However, despite some vagaries regarding the definition I don’t feel that the term is entirely inappropriate when it comes to the Lynx.
Like every all-rounder the Lynx has its weaker areas, but in terms of its scope for a wide range of activities/styles/grades here we have a shoe that is stiff enough to support the feet of someone new to climbing, whilst simultaneously providing a bit more comfort for those more experienced climbers on long mountain routes too. On the flipside of this, Ben Moon recently used a pair on his ascent of Rainshadow (reported back in June 2015), so it’s the choice shoe of a 9a climber too – quite something…
The Lynx has a wide fit, with a high volume toe box and a subtly downturned last. The fit can be adapted around the foot by the lacing that extends to the very tip of the shoe, something that may sound obvious, but with many brands only continuing lacing to the mid-foot (leaving a potential risk for a sloppy fit) it is worth a special mention. As a result, despite saying the Lynx is ‘wide’ it would probably have been more accurate to say they fit wide feet well (in this case, my feet) but also fit feet of more standard width too. In addition to this the heel has been well sculpted so that it fits, not attacks, your heel/achilles tendon.
When it comes to rubber, the sticky Zenith compound has seen several updates since it was first released and their more recent models – the Dharma, Kintaro, and Lynx – feature the updated version. The resulting effect is the same level of grippiness, but with increased edge ability (please don’t ask me how…) The reality of this? Well, lots of people talk about rubber and the differences between them. I’ve certainly noticed it, but find that it’s often blown out of proportion in terms of its importance – in my eyes the No.1 factor when it comes to buying shoes is fit. Anyhow, following a period of initial breaking in they hit their sweet spot: performing well on a wide variety of rock types including Pembroke Limestone, Peak Limestone (which nothing grips on!!), Peak Grit (which everything grips on, albeit quite differently), and North Wales Rhyolite.
The build quality of the Lynx is excellent. One feature that particularly took my attention was the luxurious tongue, which overlaps neatly and has a lovely feel to it (or maybe I’m just going soft). Made in Spain (always nice to have something made in the EU) they are made to last and should suit the rigours of British rock climbing (i.e. not only the route, but the descents, screes, vegetation, long days, rough rock etc…).
Controversial though it might sound, and imaginary though the concept might be, I do believe the Lynx to be a good all-rounder. In this day and age where many climbing shoe manufacturers appear to be discontinuing all their stiff boots it is quite refreshing to have Boreal present something a little different. If you’re after a pair of boots that could take you up long mountain routes from Diff to E6 (arms permitting) or 9as at Malham (!!) then try a pair on – they might just be for you.
What Boreal say:
Boreal Lynx is the consummate all-rounder. Featuring a subtly downturned last shape and ultra sticky Zenith™ rubber, Lynx is just as happy padding up a friction slab as it is standing on micro edges. Such versatility makes this the perfect “do it all” shoe.
The last shape has evolved from a previous version of our popular Lynx model, with a wider forefoot and slimmer heel offering a secure and comfortable fit for the average foot. We have also added a women’s specific last shape, designed to fit the contours of a lower volume foot.
The upper consists of a premium quality unlined split leather, with padded neoprene tongue. This works in conjunction with our full length lacing to lock the foot in place in comfort.
About the Author:
Rob Greenwood is the Advertising Manager at UKClimbing.com.
He's a passionate climber, hot yoga addict and eater of vegetarian food. He has done more UK trad routes than he's had roast dinners (and that's got nothing to do with the vegetarianism).
Aside from UK trad, he's dabbled with alpine climbing, Scottish winter, Himalayan climbing and more recently Peak limestone sport climbing.
- He keeps an occasional blog about his adventures here: Rob Greenwood Climbing
|In stock at our new Reading Climbing Wall shop.|
See this product at the Cold Mountain Kit shop
|Buy Now with FREE UK Delivery!!!|
See this product at the Outside Ltd shop
|£110.00. Plus FREE UK delivery|
See this product at the Joe Brown - Snowdonia shop
|See our full range of rock shoes in store.|
See this product at the The Castle shop
- SKILLS: #RespectTheRock - The Sad Story of Whitehouses 16 Feb
- REVIEW: Armaid Massage Tool 26 Jan
- PRESS RELEASE: Alpkit Open New UK Factory 24 Jan
- PHOTOGRAPHY: 2017 Marmot Photography Awards 9 Jan
- REVIEW: Rob Greenwood's Bouldering 'Essentials' 21 Dec, 2017
- REVIEW: Organic Packs and Chalk Bags 15 Dec, 2017
- SKILLS: #RespectTheRock: Chalk Use 8 Dec, 2017
- REVIEW: Sneak Peak: Black Diamond ATC Pilot and Momentum Rock Shoe 10 Nov, 2017
- ARTICLE: Ned Feehally's Top Mantelshelves in the Peak District 31 Oct, 2017
- REVIEW: Pongoose Climber 700 3-in-1 Clipstick 20 Oct, 2017