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Demo Route and Intermediate route from the top of the crag.
© Richy boy, Apr 2011

Definitive *** West Cornwall ticklist

contributed by cheque Jun/19

All the routes given *** in the current pair of Climbers’ Club West Cornwall definitive guides.

You can’t get very far into West Penwith climbing before you run into controversy involving Mark and Rowland Edwards and, sure enough, there are quite a few of their routes with three stars (mainly the unconfirmed “hollow” stars) in the books that the crag moderators haven’t included on the UKC logbooks. Rather than poke that hornet’s nest I’ll just list them here:

Rewind (E10), Ziggurat (E5) & Bridge of Sies (E7) at Carn Vellan,
Mean Crack (E6) & Copacabana (E5) at Mayon Castle Cliff,
Watermark (E7), Adrenaline Tide (E9), Tide Master (E4), Temple of Darkness (E6) & Mist of Time (E3) at Pellitras Point
and last but not least London Bridge (E6), Fire in the Soul (E7), The Chicken Run (E6), Spanish Raid (E6), Deception (E4), Lotus Eater (E4), Marble Harbour (E5), Agamemnon (E3), Fireblade (E3) & Uphill Racer (E3) at Basher’s Harbour.

User Percentage Latest Log
1 Steve Claw 30% 30 Aug
2 richgac 25% 11 Jul, 2019
3 markalmack 25% 23 Jul, 2020
4 Hidden 22% 11 Jul, 2019
5 Graeme Hammond 22% 11 Sep, 2019
6 masa-alpin 20% 30 Aug, 2019
7 lithos 17% 10 Sep, 2020
8 Jim blackford 17% 3 May
9 WB 13% 20 Sep, 2019
10 gmuston 13% 31 May

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

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Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
VD
Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando Ridge VD *** 2884 161m • 8 Bosigran Ridge Area
HS
Right Angle HS 4b *** 856 73m • 3 Gurnard's Head
Doorpost HS 4b *** 3204 67m • 3 Bosigran
Demo Route HS 4b *** 3140 19m • 2 Sennen
VS
Sensible Shoes VS 4c *** 130 40m Robin's Rocks
Little Brown Jug VS 5a *** 2202 66m • 3 Bosigran
South Face Direct VS 4c *** 1078 59m • 4 Chair Ladder
Diocese VS 5a *** 823 56m • 4 Chair Ladder
Martell Slab VS 4c *** 125 43m • 3 Tater-du
Down Under, Up Top VS 4c *** 46 50m • 2 Predannack Head Area
HVS
Saxon HVS 5a *** 746 50m Kenidjack Cliffs
Queen of the May HVS 5a *** 8 45m Vellan Head Area
E1
Astral Stroll E1 5b *** 292 88m • 4 Zawn Duel and Carn...
Midgey, Midge, the Midge E1 5b *** 1 50m • 3 Geevor
American Dream E1 5b *** 105 40m Zawn Kellys Area
Bishop's Rib E1 5b *** 627 53m • 3 Chair Ladder
E2
Behemoth E2 5c ** 62 43m • 3 Gurnard's Head
Beowulf E2 5c ** 177 69m • 3 Bosigran
The Ghost E3 5b *** 204 68m • 3 Bosigran
Bow Wall E2 5b *** 574 52m • 2 Bosigran
Earthly Powers E2 5c *** 18 55m • 2 Whirl Pool Buttress
Illustrated Man E2 5b ** 226 20m Carn Barra
Better Days E2 5b *** 4 35m Basher's Harbour
California Dreaming E2 5b *** 3 30m Basher's Harbour
Amnesty E3 5c *** 77 25m Pen Olver
The Cull E3 5c *** 199 30m Bass Point
E3
Mastodon E3 5c *** 81 50m • 3 Gurnard's Head
Kafoozalem E3 6a *** 254 36m Bosigran
Raven Wall E3 5c *** 167 36m Bosigran
The Dream E3 6a *** 14 64m • 3 Great Zawn
The Dream/Liberator E3 6a *** 119 64m • 3 Great Zawn
Stella Maris E3 5c *** 3 26m Trevowhan Cliff
Gillian E3 5c ** 256 32m Sennen
Longships Wall E3 6a *** 77 25m Lands End
Sunny Corner Lane E3 5c *** 152 28m Carn Barra
The Spire E3 5c ** 51 42m • 2 Chair Ladder
Bermuda Wall E3 5c ** 43 20m Pedn-mên-an-mere
Tough Teacher E3 5c *** 2 35m Predannack Head Area
Sport of Kings E3 5c *** 5 50m Vellan Head Area
International E3 5c *** 67 23m Pen Olver
E4
Déjà Vu E4 5c *** 44 52m • 2 Great Zawn
Day Tripper E4 6a ** 15 46m • 2 Lands End
Pyjamarama E4 6b ** 9 20m Lands End
Immaculate Arête E4 6a *** 49 35m Pordenack Point Area
Cain E4 6a *** 40 32m Pordenack Point Area
Interspace E4 6a *** 26 42m Carn Lês Boel Area
Grand Plage (pre-rockfall) E3 6a *** 150 28m Carn Barra
The Baldest E4 5c *** 59 30m St. Loy Cliff
E5
Evil Eye E5 6b *** 34 36m Bosigran
Liberator E5 6a *** 10 66m • 3 Great Zawn
The West Face E5 6b *** 33 55m • 3 Great Zawn
Fun Curve Factory E5 6a *** 3 20m Carn Vellan
Atlantic Ocean Wall E5 6a *** 2 70m • 4 Lands End
Burning Gold E4 6a *** 12 46m • 2 Carn Lês Boel Area
E6
From Slovenia With Love E6 6b *** - 25m Carn Vellan
Edge Control II E6 6b *** - 30m Lands End
Astrodome E6 6b *** - 81m • 4 Lands End
Wolf at the Door E6 6b *** 1 40m Carn Lês Boel Area
E7
Off The Mark E7 6c *** 3 36m Robin's Rocks
International Kidney Dealer E7 6c *** 4 30m Robin's Rocks
7:27.13 E7 6c *** 1 35m Carn Vellan
Tears of a Clown E7 6b ** 17 23m Sennen
Rainbow Warrior E7 6c *** - 20m Sennen
Amazonia E7 6c *** - 21m Sennen
E8
29 Palms E8 6c *** 4 20m Sennen
The Edwards Edge E8 6c *** - 38m • 2 Lands End
Pre-Marital Tension E8 6c *** 1 18m Cribba Head
E9
Exclamation Mark E9 6c *** 1 13m Cribba Head
228 e, 195 stars 19,620 2,926m 127
Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
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