UKC Logbook - Definitive *** West Cornwall

Contributed by cheque Jun/19 - This public ticklist has been seen 4,653 times

All the routes given *** in the current pair of Climbers’ Club West Cornwall definitive guides.

You can’t get very far into West Penwith climbing before you run into controversy involving Mark and Rowland Edwards and, sure enough, there are quite a few of their routes with three stars (mainly the unconfirmed “hollow” stars) in the books that the crag moderators haven’t included on the UKC logbooks. Rather than poke that hornet’s nest I’ll just list them here:

Rewind (E10), Ziggurat (E5) & Bridge of Sies (E7) at Carn Vellan,
Mean Crack (E6) & Copacabana (E5) at Mayon Castle Cliff,
Watermark (E7), Adrenaline Tide (E9), Tide Master (E4), Temple of Darkness (E6) & Mist of Time (E3) at Pellitras Point
and last but not least London Bridge (E6), Fire in the Soul (E7), The Chicken Run (E6), Spanish Raid (E6), Deception (E4), Lotus Eater (E4), Marble Harbour (E5), Agamemnon (E3), Fireblade (E3) & Uphill Racer (E3) at Basher’s Harbour.

Right angle, the finishing corner
© JackM92, May 2016

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	User	Percentage	Latest Log
1st	Graeme Hammond	36%	30 Aug, 2023
2nd	Steve Claw	35%	15 Oct, 2023
3rd	richgac	29%	16 Jul, 2024
4th	markalmack	25%	21 Jul, 2020
5th	masa-alpin	20%	26 Aug, 2019
5th	lithos	20%	20 Sep, 2024
5th	nimajneb	20%	19 Aug
6th	Jim blackford	19%	6 May, 2023
7th	Jack jk	17%	15 Sep, 2024
7th	Hidden	17%	25 Aug

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Wishlist Routes

Logged Routes

Darken logged

Cluster markers

Distribution of grades - Trad

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

Jen Oliver on the famous last few moves of Demo Route © Luke Carroll

Would you mind climbing a tad quicker? © Will Rupp

One way of bailing off at the second pitch... © Paul Sagar

BMC International Meet 2010 © Rob Gibson

Toru Nakajima headpoints 29 Palms (E8 6c/7a) on BMC International Meet © Kafoozalem

Cornwall at it's best. Illustrated Man E2. © Kafoozalem

Add	Climb name	Grade	Ticks?	Height		Crag name
	VD
1	Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando Ridge	VD ***	3917	161m	• 8	Bosigran Ridge Area
	HS
2	Right Angle	HS 4b ***	1079	73m	• 3	Gurnard's Head
3	Doorpost	HS 4b ***	4201	67m	• 3	Bosigran
4	Demo Route	HS 4b ***	4006	19m	• 2	Sennen
	VS
5	Sensible Shoes	VS 4c ***	167	40m		Robin's Rocks
6	Little Brown Jug	VS 5a ***	2825	66m	• 3	Bosigran
7	South Face Direct	VS 4c ***	1421	59m	• 4	Chair Ladder
8	Diocese	VS 5a ***	986	56m	• 4	Chair Ladder
9	Martell Slab	VS 4c ***	158	43m	• 3	Tater-du
10	Down Under, Up Top	VS 4c ***	83	50m	• 2	Predannack Head Area
	HVS
11	Saxon	HVS 5a ***	978	50m		Kenidjack Cliffs
12	Queen of the May	HVS 5a ***	16	45m		Vellan Head Area
	E1
13	Astral Stroll	E1 5b ***	364	88m	• 4	Zawn Duel and Carn...
14	Midgey, Midge, the Midge	E1 5b ***	1	50m	• 3	Geevor
15	American Dream	E1 5b ***	152	40m		Zawn Kellys Area
16	Bishop's Rib	E1 5b ***	788	53m	• 3	Chair Ladder
	E2
17	Behemoth	E2 5c **	79	43m	• 3	Gurnard's Head
18	Beowulf	E2 5c **	224	69m	• 3	Bosigran
19	The Ghost	E3 5b ***	260	68m	• 3	Bosigran
20	Bow Wall	E2 5b ***	753	52m	• 2	Bosigran
21	Earthly Powers	E2 5c ***	25	55m	• 2	Whirl Pool Buttress
22	Illustrated Man	E2 5b **	312	20m		Carn Barra
23	Better Days	E2 5b ***	4	35m		Basher's...
24	California Dreaming	E2 5b ***	3	30m		Basher's...
25	Amnesty	E3 5c ***	101	25m		Pen Olver
26	The Cull	E3 5b ***	166	30m		Bass Point
	E3
27	Mastodon	E3 5c ***	101	50m	• 3	Gurnard's Head
28	Kafoozalem	E4 6a ***	309	36m		Bosigran
29	Raven Wall	E3 5c ***	201	36m		Bosigran
30	The Dream	E3 6a ***	15	64m	• 3	Great Zawn
31	The Dream/Liberator	E3 6a ***	149	64m	• 3	Great Zawn
32	Stella Maris	E3 5c ***	5	26m		Trevowhan Cliff
33	Gillian	E3 5c ***	327	32m		Sennen
34	Longships Wall	E3 5c ***	99	25m		Lands End
35	Sunny Corner Lane	E3 5c ***	190	28m		Carn Barra
36	The Spire	E3 5c **	63	42m	• 2	Chair Ladder
37	Bermuda Wall	E3 5c ***	56	20m		Pedn-mên-an-mere
38	Tough Teacher	E3 5c ***	5	35m		Predannack Head Area
39	Sport of Kings	E3 5c ***	8	50m		Vellan Head Area
40	International	E3 5c ***	90	23m		Pen Olver
	E4
41	Déjà Vu	E4 5c ***	51	52m	• 2	Great Zawn
42	Day Tripper	E4 6a ***	18	46m	• 2	Lands End
43	Pyjamarama	E4 6b **	9	20m		Lands End
44	Immaculate Arête	E4 6a ***	57	35m		Pordenack Point Area
45	Cain	E4 6a ***	50	32m		Pordenack Point Area
46	Interspace	E4 6a ***	30	42m		Carn Lês Boel Area
47	Grande Plage (pre-rockfall)	E5 6b ***	165	28m		Carn Barra
48	The Baldest	E4 5c ***	72	30m		St. Loy Cliff
	E5
49	Evil Eye	E5 6b ***	42	36m		Bosigran
50	Liberator	E5 6a ***	10	66m	• 3	Great Zawn
51	The West Face	E5 6b ***	38	55m	• 3	Great Zawn
52	Fun Curve Factory	E5 6a ***	3	20m		Carn Vellan
53	Atlantic Ocean Wall	E5 6a ***	2	70m	• 4	Lands End
54	Burning Gold	E4 6a ***	15	46m	• 2	Carn Lês Boel Area
	E6
55	From Slovenia With Love	E6 6b ***	-	25m		Carn Vellan
56	Edge Control II	E6 6b ***	-	30m		Lands End
57	Astrodome	E6 6b ***	-	81m	• 4	Lands End
58	Wolf at the Door	E6 6b ***	1	40m		Carn Lês Boel Area
	E7
59	Off The Mark	E7 6c ***	5	36m		Robin's Rocks
60	International Kidney Dealer	E7 6c ***	4	30m		Robin's Rocks
61	7:27.13	E7 6c ***	1	35m		Carn Vellan
62	Tears of a Clown	E7 6b **	19	23m		Sennen
63	Rainbow Warrior	E7 6c ***	-	20m		Sennen
64	Amazonia	E7 6c ***	-	21m		Sennen
	E8
65	29 Palms	E8 6c ***	4	20m		Sennen
66	The Edwards Edge	E8 6c ***	-	38m	• 2	Lands End
67	Pre-Marital Tension	E8 6c ***	1	18m		Cribba Head
	E9
68	Exclamation Mark	E9 6c ***	1	13m		Cribba Head
		231 e, 198 stars	25,285	2,926m	127