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little brown jug
© joese7en, Jun 2009

Definitive *** West Cornwall ticklist

contributed by cheque Jun/19

All the routes given *** in the current pair of Climbers’ Club West Cornwall definitive guides.

You can’t get very far into West Penwith climbing before you run into controversy involving Mark and Rowland Edwards and, sure enough, there are quite a few of their routes with three stars (mainly the unconfirmed “hollow” stars) in the books that the crag moderators haven’t included on the UKC logbooks. Rather than poke that hornet’s nest I’ll just list them here:

Rewind (E10), Ziggurat (E5) & Bridge of Sies (E7) at Carn Vellan,
Mean Crack (E6) & Copacabana (E5) at Mayon Castle Cliff,
Watermark (E7), Adrenaline Tide (E9), Tide Master (E4), Temple of Darkness (E6) & Mist of Time (E3) at Pellitras Point
and last but not least London Bridge (E6), Fire in the Soul (E7), The Chicken Run (E6), Spanish Raid (E6), Deception (E4), Lotus Eater (E4), Marble Harbour (E5), Agamemnon (E3), Fireblade (E3) & Uphill Racer (E3) at Basher’s Harbour.

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Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes
Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
 VD
Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando RidgeVD ***2672161m• 8Bosigran Ridge Area
 HS
Right AngleHS 4b ***76173m• 3Gurnard's Head
DoorpostHS 4b ***299367m• 3Bosigran
Demo RouteHS 4b ***294719m• 2Sennen
 VS
Sensible ShoesVS 4c ***11940mRobin's Rocks
Little Brown JugVS 5a ***204466m• 3Bosigran
South Face DirectVS 4c ***98559m• 4Chair Ladder
DioceseVS 5a ***77256m• 4Chair Ladder
Martell SlabVS 4c ***11743m• 3Tater-du
Down Under, Up TopVS 4c ***4150m• 2Predannack Head Area
 HVS
SaxonHVS 5a ***68750mKenidjack Cliffs
Queen of the MayHVS 5a ***845mVellan Head Area
 E1
Astral StrollE1 5b ***26888m• 4Zawn Duel and Carn...
Midgey, Midge, the MidgeE1 5b ***150m• 3Geevor
American DreamE1 5b ***9240mZawn Kellys Area
Bishop's RibE1 5b ***58753m• 3Chair Ladder
 E2
BehemothE2 5c **5643m• 3Gurnard's Head
BeowulfE2 5c **16769m• 3Bosigran
The GhostE3 5b ***18668m• 3Bosigran
Bow WallE2 5b ***53752m• 2Bosigran
Earthly PowersE2 5c ***1655m• 2Whirl Pool Buttress
Illustrated ManE2 5b **20620mCarn Barra
Better DaysE2 5b ***435mBasher's Harbour
California DreamingE2 5b ***330mBasher's Harbour
AmnestyE3 5c ***6925mPen Olver
The CullE3 5c ***12330mBass Point
 E3
MastodonE3 5c ***7950m• 3Gurnard's Head
KafoozalemE3 6a ***22936mBosigran
Raven WallE3 5c ***15236mBosigran
The DreamE3 6a ***1364m• 3Great Zawn
The Dream/LiberatorE3 6a ***11064m• 3Great Zawn
Stella MarisE3 5c ***326mTrevowhan Cliff
GillianE3 5c **23532mSennen
Longships WallE3 6a ***6925mLands End
Sunny Corner LaneE3 5c ***13428mCarn Barra
The SpireE3 5c **4542m• 2Chair Ladder
Bermuda WallE3 5c **3620mPedn-mên-an-mere
Tough TeacherE3 5c ***-35mPredannack Head Area
Sport of KingsE3 5c ***550mVellan Head Area
InternationalE3 5c ***5823mPen Olver
 E4
Déjà VuE4 5c ***4152m• 2Great Zawn
Day TripperE4 6a **1546m• 2Lands End
PyjamaramaE4 6b **920mLands End
Immaculate ArêteE4 6a ***4535mPordenack Point Area
CainE4 6a ***3732mPordenack Point Area
InterspaceE4 6a ***2542mCarn Lês Boel Area
Grand Plage (pre-rockfall)E3 6a ***14228mCarn Barra
The BaldestE4 5c ***5330mSt. Loy Cliff
 E5
Evil EyeE5 6b ***3236mBosigran
LiberatorE5 6a ***1066m• 3Great Zawn
The West FaceE5 6b ***3155m• 3Great Zawn
Fun Curve FactoryE5 6a ***320mCarn Vellan
Atlantic Ocean WallE5 6a ***270m• 4Lands End
Burning GoldE4 6a ***1046m• 2Carn Lês Boel Area
 E6
From Slovenia With LoveE6 6b ***-25mCarn Vellan
Edge Control IIE6 6b ***-30mLands End
AstrodomeE6 6b ***-81m• 4Lands End
Wolf at the DoorE6 6b ***140mCarn Lês Boel Area
 E7
Off The MarkE7 6c ***336mRobin's Rocks
International Kidney DealerE7 6c ***430mRobin's Rocks
7:27.13E7 6c ***135mCarn Vellan
Tears of a ClownE7 6b **1623mSennen
Rainbow WarriorE7 6c ***-20mSennen
AmazoniaE7 6c ***-21mSennen
 E8
29 PalmsE8 6c ***420mSennen
The Edwards EdgeE8 6c ***-38m• 2Lands End
Pre-Marital TensionE8 6c ***118mCribba Head
 E9
Exclamation MarkE9 6c ***113mCribba Head
228 e, 195 stars18,1152,926m• 127
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