UKC

Edelrid Pure, Pure Wire and Pure Pro Quickdraws Review

© UKC Gear

We looked at the previous version of the Edelrid Pure quickdraw in our Sport Quickdraws Group Test back in 2016. It faired averagely amongst the pack. On the positive side it was a good weight saver, and reasonably priced. On the other hand we weren't sold on the floppy sling. It was also a bit less ergonomic than the best of the competition. So has the updated version addressed these issues, and is it still well-priced in a busy market?

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Left to right: Pure Pro; Pure; Pure Wire

Here we're reviewing three models: the standard Pure (£21); Pure Wire (£16) - wire gate version that's budget friendly; and Pure Pro (£22) - a longer, chunkier and more ergonomic sling with the same gates as the Pure.

Pros: A good all rounder at a fair price. Wire version is budget friendly and provides some trad crossover. Pro version has better sling for sport.
Cons: Gates not the most ergonomic for clipping, not the best for hard redpointing.

What's New

The new version of the Pure has an updated sling, which has addressed the floppy nature of the previous ones. Their gates have also seen some refinement, and appear more robust than the previous iteration. And where formerly you got only a 16cm version, the choice of lengths has now expanded.

All break forces remain the same at: 23kN gate closed, 8kN gate open and 8kN cross-loaded. Weights stand at 97g, 105g, 111g for Pure Wire, Pure and Pure Pro respectively.

Pure Wired version in action at Dunkeld Upper Cave Crag  © UKC Gear
Pure Wired version in action at Dunkeld Upper Cave Crag

Carabiners

The carabiners all feature an I-beam cross-sectional construction as standard in many gates. This ensures weight is kept down whilst not impacting the strength of the gate. Both the Pure Straight and Pure Bent gates come in at 45g each, with the Pure Wire gate saving you 7g per gate at 38g; on a big rack those savings would add up. There is a large and well-shaped area where the rope/bolt will sit to reduce wear and provide smooth running of the rope.

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Wired Gate Racking

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Pure Pro Racking

The keylock feature on the solid gate version of the Pure works well for avoiding snagging the rope/bolt whilst unclipping. I haven't noticed any snag whilst unclipping due to an aggressive inward-angled nose, which was pointed out in our group test on the previous version of the Pure. The wired version has no keylock feature so there is a trade-off to pay for the weight savings there, although this hooked gate nose is kept small meaning it isn't as snaggy as many others.

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The clipping action on all gates is good and feels smooth with a nice firm snap back. The 20mm gate opening (24mm for the Pure Wire) together with a middle of the road size gives the gates nice overall handling. A bent solid gate provides additional ease when clipping the rope, although this isn't as ergonomic as many others on the market. The Pure Wire comes with only straight gates on either side which does impact on clipping action, another trade-off if looking for the weight saving that the wire model offers.

Moving through the crux, and contemplating grabbing the Pure draw  © UKC Gear
Moving through the crux, and contemplating grabbing the Pure draw

Sling

The Pure and Pure Pro are available in two different sling lengths: 10cm/18cm for Pure; and 12cm/18cm for Pure Pro (Pure Wire only 10cm) although we have only tested the shorter of both. The slings on the Pure and Pure Wire are essentially the same. These are both relatively narrow for a sport draw and provide an obvious weight-saving benefit. However, for a sport draw, particularly on single-pitch redpointing, it is often beneficial to have a thicker sling which is more ergonomic to grab and will ensure there is no chance of continuing a panic-inducing pump. In general, the sling provides a good level of stiffness which has improved on the previous model.

Pure's short narrow sling doesn't provide much to grab  © UKC Gear
Pure's short narrow sling doesn't provide much to grab
The Pure Pro's longer and thicker sling makes grabbing a bit more pleasant  © UKC Gear
The Pure Pro's longer and thicker sling makes grabbing a bit more pleasant

The Pure Pro gives you some added ergonomics in the sling in both width and length to provide a more grab-friendly draw - something I've been glad of in the middle of a crux sequence. Each end of the sling tapers in to still allow for a nice free-moving bolt end of the sling.

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Like the reviewer's wrists, the sling is on the narrow side if you're looking for a grab-able redpointing draw

The rope side of each draw is held firmly in place by a solid but low profile rubber retainer which ensures ease of clipping and no risk of a surprise flipped gate when I have arrived to clip.

Overall

Looking at both the carabiner and sling as one unit, the Pure range is a really good all-rounder sport quickdraw. There has been a marked improvement from the previous iteration which make this a good sport draw to consider.

There are some draws on the market, such as the DMM Alpha Sport and Wild Country Proton that are more suited for hard redpointing where weight is not a concern, a sturdier grab-able draw is good to have and top-end clipping action is desirable. But the Pure range bridges many categories well, providing a robust feeling quickdraw that shouldn't unduly weigh you down if onsighting longer pitches. It offers reasonably good handling and clipping action from both the draw and sling and additionally won't break the bank when compared to some top-end redpointing draws out there.

If you are looking to keep the weight and cost down further then the wired version will assist with this and on the opposite end the Pure Pro will provide a chunkier, albiet slightly heavier (+6g) sling for projects and redpointing. A mix and match of all will see you well if you intend to use these for a variety of routes and trips.




29 Sep, 2023

Great review!


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