The Ohmega is a new product from EDELRID that does broadly the same job as the Ohm, but with a few more features. Not only does the Ohmega add resistance into the system when the climber falls, it also makes clipping easier thanks to the integrated pulley.
So in simple terms, it adds resistance but also reduces it. The best of both worlds!
OHMEGA (£115 RRP)
Rethink belaying—weighing in at barely 170g, the compact Ohmega is a highly versatile belay assistant.
Whether at climbing gyms or the crag, it offers genuine added value in terms of safety and comfort for both climbers and belayers. The Ohmega benefits beginners, experienced climbers and pros as well as rope parties with and without a weight difference.
The Dyneema® sling enables users to switch between three different braking levels with a simple hand movement to suit the weight distribution. You can add 10kg, 20kg or 30kg of resistance into the system.
The integrated pulley keeps the friction generated at the first bolt lower than when using a quickdraw, so users won't notice the Ohmega when climbing or clipping, even on long or difficult routes.
Thanks to the short Dyneema® sling and the resultant minimal activation distance, the belayer finds it easier to belay dynamically and softly, reducing the risk of impact-induced injuries.
In the event of a fall, the cam brakes the fall, supporting the belayer and balancing out weight differences. The belayer won't be pulled off the ground in the event of a big fall. With falls from a low height, the braking effect of the Ohmega reduces the risk of both the climbing partners colliding and the climber hitting the ground.
Comments
As someone whose BMI is higher than it should be I'm a fan of the Ohm, but it can cause rope drag if the belayer isn't attentive. If this design can eliminate that then it sounds like a considerable improvement, especially with the weight saving. Does this mean the Ohm is now obsolete, or do they have different applications? I'd be interested to see a comparative review.
One question in my mind is how easy is it to replace the dyneema sling when it becomes worn or damaged? The Ohm uses a standard dogbone connected with a maillon.
Does anyone know when this will be released? I'm assuming the lack of information is because there isn't a date, but I do also feel like Edelrid has been sending out press released for a fair while - I am convinced! Take my money already!
I belive they are continuing to manufacture the Ohm, but having used the Ohmega - and given that it's the same price - I don't see why you'd buy an Ohm anymore. The Ohmega is a significant improvement.
I believe it's going to be possible to replace it, but I don't think anything has been confirmed; however, Edelrid being Edelrid - I've no doubt they'll have the procedures in place.
I think the timelines are still tbc, but there's talk of either late summer/autumn, although that may change.
Having bought my own MK II Ohm (after using a friend's MK I quite a lot over the last five years I guess) this is slightly annoying. But then again, I've had the Ohm for about a year and used it quite a lot climbing particularly with my considerably lighter than me son, so I've had decent use out of it already.