UKC

Sterling Sharma Signature Velocity Rope Review

© Scott Allen
The Sharma Signature Velocity Rope by Sterling, reviewed by UKC Competition Winner, Scott Allen. Sterling is distributed in the UK by Beta Climbing Designs.

UKC Competition winner Scott Allen won his Sterling 'Sharma' Rope a couple of weeks ago and headed straight off to El Chorro for some redpointing once he'd picked the rope up from The Beta Team in Sheffield.

I have entered countless competitions on UKC and failed to win anything, something I expect many UKC members can relate to. When I received the email from Rob at Beta Climbing Designs informing me that I had won the new 'Sharma' rope, as my climbing crew labelled it, I was pretty happy. Even more so, as I was heading for El Chorro in three days for our annual sport climbing trip. What better way to test out the new lightweight rope than on my many redpoint attempts in sunny Spain. I agreed with Rob and the guys to provide a gear review as long as I wasn't in any of the photos!

First off was a final training session at the local climbing centre to iron out any 'kinks' in the colourfully designed rope prior to heading off to Spain. The first thing I noticed was that, unlike with most new ropes, there was little or no rope tangling or kinks. The first couple of routes found the rope surprisingly easy to lead and belay with. The next thing I noticed was how light it is - especially compared to my current 10.5mm 60m rope. At 9.8mm in diameter and 62g/M it's one of the lightest ropes on the market. This last fact is important; especially if you are about to board a budget airline with limited baggage weight and a 60m rope in your rucksack with your pants and socks.

So rocking up in El Chorro we were all keen to use the Sterling rope for our redpoint attempts on Desplomilandia and the surrounding crags. However first up, and to ease our way in was a day of easier onsighting. Now the Sharma Signature velocity is designed with redpointing in mind, but it works really well for onsighting. It's lightweight and easy to clip quickdraws with, which works well when you are 4 metres above the bolt and have no idea where to go next. The 'Sharma' rope also runs really well though an ATC belay or a GriGri, allowing the belayer to give slack or take in quickly, when required on the onsight. It performs just as well on slabby, vertical or steep routes producing little or no rope drag and its slick sheath prevented any abrasion, even when it was used for top roping. It's fair to say we were all pretty impressed.

So with the crew nicely re-aquainted with the wonderful rock around the El Chorro region, we decided to up the grade level and start working some routes. This is where the Sterling rope comes into its own. It's great for redpointing, really light, easy to handle and doesn't feel like its dragging you down especially on steep routes. It's stiff enough that you can clip really easily at your limit and as when onsighting, the belayer can provide rope quickly when required and take in quickly when needed, unlike my current rope, which constantly snags in the GriGri.

So what about the downsides, careful attention must be paid when lowering off the crag, especially if you are using a GriGri. Because of the rope's slick nature if due care wasn't taken it would be very easy to lose control. If you're climber is hanging around on a redpoint I certainly would have both hands on the dead rope even when using the GriGri. If you are the kind of GriGri belayer who likes to stick your hands in your pockets and solely trust the GriGri (and you see many of these people at the crag) I would buy a thicker rope! There is also the issue of the price, at £160 for the 60m rope, it's a little on the pricey side, £50 more expensive than my current rope.

The rope may be advertised as perfect for beginners and experienced climbers, but in my opinion, this is a top end rope for top end climbers. If you are like me and redpoint 7a-7b I'm pretty sure that this rope will certainly aid your attempts. But if you are determined enough you will bag the route anyway even using a 10.5mm heavier rope. That said though, I won't be going back to my 10.5mm rope for my redpoint attempts in the future because once you have used the Sterling Velocity rope, you won't want to use anything else, just like Sharma.

Rope Facts

  • Diameter 9.8mm
  • UIAA Falls 6
  • Impact Force 8.8KN
  • Weight 62g/M
  • Static Elongation 8.6%
  • Dynamic Elongation 26.4%

See where you can buy this rope and other Sterling Ropes HERE


For more information Beta Climbing Designs



15 Nov, 2010
//www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/belay-devices-0/grigri Scott mentions it is slick, but I think the review should also mention that a 9.8 mm rope is outside of the manufacturer's recommendations. I guess it is one of those 'on your own head be it' issues.
15 Nov, 2010
Hey Toby, Maybe check the product info on the grigri.... 1. Field of application Belay device for 10 to 11 mm (9.7 mm is acceptable) CE (EN 892) and/or UIAA certified dynamic single ropes (core + sheath). The GRIGRI is designed for indoor wall climbing or for rock climbing on well-protected routes where anchors meet the EN/UIAA standard (25 kN). It can be used to belay and lower a leader or a second. It should not be used for mountaineering or adventure climbing. All new ropes are slick with a grigri and my 9.7mm rope after breaking it in now works perfectly with a grigri. Cheers Craig
15 Nov, 2010
Cheers Craig. I thought I remembered people saying it was now 'officially' OK on a bit sub-10 mm ropes, but when I checked on Petzl website at the link above, that web page only said 10-11 mm. I know of one guy who very nearly decked from high up recently because of slick rope and probably bad belaying (holding down the lever), hence it was on my mind! BTW, do you reckon 9.7 is thick enough to not be terrifying when top roping above a big drop? I remember doing that for the first time on my Revelation (9.1mm) and being absolutely terrified it looked so thin! I have a Beal Joker now (great rope) but always use my old 10.5 Beal for top roping and working routes due to cowardice on skinny ropes as much as anything! :)
15 Nov, 2010
Hi Toby, I guess it's a case of just getting used to it. I had a brand new Beal booster 9.7mm and used it mostly at the wall. First few times we had to use a friction krab when lowering off with the grigri due to the slickness but as the rope wore in, it began to work fine. I suppose the solution is now in hand with the new grigri which I believe is designed for slightly thinner ropes. I guess its a mental thing with the thinness of ropes, my biggest worry is not the rope or belay device.. it's the ability of the belayer!!! Cheers
16 Nov, 2010
Is the guy in the picture doing a ground up ascent on that on that route ?
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