La Sportiva label their G-Summit boots 'the new benchmark for high-altitude technical mountaineering'. Of course we lack anything remotely resembling high altitude. So, should UK climbers think about them only for winter trips to the Alps or big technical peaks overseas? After a season of use in the hills of Scotland over winter 2023-24, we recommend giving the G-Summit a closer look for Scottish winter climbing. Here we aim to explain a product that's proved quite hard to pigeonhole, and why we think these high tech boots are worth considering for home-grown climbing.
In Use
In Alpine and higher altitude settings, the G-Summit is clearly well-suited for specific applications. I can imagine using these during winter Alpine mountaineering ascents where outstanding warmth and technical climbing performance are both a priority in your boots. The same can be said for higher altitude settings. Yet their optimal use from a UK perspective is less clear cut.
La Sportiva's discontinued G5 Evo, a top choice for high-end UK winter mountaineering, has been replaced by the G-Summit and G-Tech. Each model has a slightly different remit, though there's plenty of overlap too.
In simplified terms, the G-Tech is a lighter weight (1260g/pair size 42) and lower-profile model, a relatively nimble boot designed primarily for high-end mountaineering, mixed, and ice climbing. It is also significantly cheaper, at £610.
On the other hand, the G-Summit is a warmer, heavier (1660g/pair size 42 - with liner), bulkier and, yes, more expensive boot. Ok, it is still viable for much of what the G-Tech excels in, but it is better suited still for colder and often higher environments. That doesn't mean the G-Summit would be a poor choice for hard ice or mixed climbing - I've used them up to Scottish tech 6, and they performed well - just that hard climbing would not be its primary forte.
If you've had success with La Sportiva mountaineering boots and are considering an upgrade, you may still have unanswered questions about which one to choose. We imagine there will be a few key differences that influence your decision:
- Fit: An individual consideration that will be subtly different for every user and which will always make or break a mountaineering boot. The G-Summit is based on the relatively generous last of the old G5 Evo, while the G-Tech is based on that of the Aequilibrium, making it slightly narrower across the foot.
- Cold feet: If, like myself, you suffer from colder feet, especially during extended winter belays, this may push you to invest in the G-Summit.
- Climbing Ability: It would be unfair to imply the G-Summit cannot be used above a certain grade. However, I imagine those operating around VII and above may prefer the lightweight nimbleness of the G-Tech. Others may also just find the warmth benefits of the G-Summit unnecessary for lower grades, where you may be moving faster and belays don't necessarily last hours. Either way, wearing the G-Summits on grade VII won't be a major hindrance to your success.
In terms of all of the above, my experience with using the G-Summit in Scotland has been positive. They have kept my feet warm during long belays, and I find the fit comfortable. Personally, I found the slightly more streamlied old G5 Evo struck a better balance in terms of warmth and bulkiness when compared to the G-Summit. However, on colder days with anticipated long belays, I'm likely to choose the G-Summits. Additionally, they feel exceptionally durable, and ought to offer season after season of use.
Competition
As well as the obvious overlap with its own brand brother the G-Tech, the G-Summit has some clear competitors from other brands. Scarpa's Phantom 6000 HD and Phantom Tech HD both hit a similar note to the Sportiova offerings, and at similar price points, so if you don't get on with the Sportiva fit or are finding it difficult to choose between the two G-products, take a look at what Scarpa are offering in this space.
Fit
My feet are relatively average width, tending slightly toward the narrow side, and I chose my regular street shoe size for the G-Summit. I got on well with the G5 Evo, which share the same last as the G-Summit. Unsurprisingly then, my experience has been problem-free with fit, heel lift, and pressure points. Since fit can vary significantly among individuals, especially with products like mountaineering boots, we would always recommend trying on several pairs before buying anything.
Features
This is a decidedly high-tech product, with a number of quite specific features that set it apart from a traditional lace-up leather mountain boot. Whether you need these enough to justify the price tag will very much depend on what you plan to do in these boots.
- Boa Lacing: I love the BOA system on these mountaineering boots, which adjusts with a quick turn of the wheel and is far less fiddly (especially with gloves or cold hands) than traditional laces. Quickly securing your feet for climbing and then releasing tension to restore circulation at the belay is game-changing. For this reason alone, it could be worth considering the G-Tech if you're a colder person who would particularly benefit from improved warmth during belays. A drawback is that the BOA can create a pressure point on the top of the foot, unlike the more evenly distributed pressure from traditional laces. This is something I have noticed.
- Powerstrap: The powerstrap, combined with the BOA system, effectively secures my foot. Note that it may dig into the front of the ankle for some, but adjusting the tightness during approach and climbing has resolved this for me.
- Inbuilt Gaiter: Like many competitor products, this works well. I've found it keeps my feet dry and free of water, snow and ice - just the thing when river crossing, or when powder is being knocked down from a partner climbing above.
- Sole: The super-chunky tread is a bit of a head-turner, and owes more to La Sportiva's fast-and-light mountain footwear than a typical solid mountain boot. Overall, my underfoot experience has been positive, but it does seem slightly out of place on this boot. The deep lugs at the heel provide excellent grip and braking on approaches. However, this design seems more suited for fast movement, and/or going crampon-free, and neither of these situations would seem to be the ideal match for this chunky boot. The raised, slightly narrow footprint likely results in a minor decrease in stability compared to a wider, lower, and more conventional outer sole, although it's not very noticeable.
- Liner Boot: The G-Summit is designed to be worn either with or without the liner boot, just by swapping in another insole (which comes provided). I was initially concerned about potential foot movement with the liner, but actually find the only thing it introduces to my day is added warmth, which has been great during long periods standing at belays.
Verdict
So, would I recommend you make the very considerable £740 investment in a pair of G-Summits? If you're engaging in technical winter mountaineering in the Alps or at higher altitudes, then yes absolutely - G-Summits should be a top contender, if the fit suits you. In this niche, the BOA lacing system may give them an edge over any of the competition.
For UK winter mountaineering, however, decision making becomes more complex. The G-Summits are an excellent choice for challenging winter climbs, offering technical ability, warmth, durability, and the convenience of BOA lacing. If you frequently contend with cold feet (or your partner regularly subjects you to 2-3 hour belaying stints), investing in G-Summits might be justified. However, if cold isn't the overriding concern then that price tag is bound to start looking a bit off-putting. If you're looking for technical performance and the benefit of the BOA lacing and inbuilt gaiter, but have less need for out-and-out insulation, then the G-Tech would be an option - especially considering the big cost saving. For me, climbing in G-Summits over the winter of 2023-24 was a great experience, and I'm looking forward to more of the same this coming season. All said though, I still carry a torch for the old G5 Evo, a boot that for me more effectively hit a Scottish sweet spot.
Comments
I've had the G-techs for a season now, warmest and lightest boot I've ever had. The BOA is a game-changer. Super tight for technical leading then release at the belay and all blood releases back in. Works a treat, even in -15 in Norway. I can see G-Summits being a bit overkill for Scottish winter. Ironically the G-techs with Darts are lighter than my dry comp boots
That's pretty remarkable that they are also the warmest boots. Do you tend to suffer from cold feet? They look great and would love to try a pair, I would have been hesitant on them being cold, but maybe that's not the case then...
Yes I always get cold feet, to a point I had to use Spantiks for ice back in the day. The Ice Cubes did ok for the 5 seasons I had them, but had always cold feet. I tried G-Techs with my heated socks, which I normally used with other boots but then stopped as I didn't need them. Just to be clear, my feet are fairly cold on this ones when leading (I crank the really tight), it's at the belays when you release the BOA that the blood rushes in.
Jesus wept!!! When did normal earners got priced out of the activity?!?
Surely you can’t be serious- £600/£700 price tag? I mean, as a punter I need all the help I can get but, surely, this is not the trend. At some point, the kit must be affordable…
And they claim climbing isn't middle class. At this rate, it won't be for much longer.