UKC

Boreal Indo Review

© UKC Gear

The Indo was originally introduced to me as a softer, more indoor/boulder-oriented version of the Crux. It features the same fit/last, which - in my opinion - is a good thing, not just because I really liked the Crux, but also because the Crux had a good balance between performance and comfort. However, in spite of its similarities the Indo is a very, very different shoe.

In Use

What impressed me most about the Crux was how much of an all-rounder it was, but if there to be a caveat to that it's that the Crux wasn't my first choice indoors; and this is where the Indo comes in. Being softer, and featuring a stickier rubber compound, this shoe is very much geared towards modern indoor bouldering and all that it entails. When it comes to outdoors, it's (perhaps obviously) suitable for that too, but it's at its best on friction based rock types such as gritstone or sandstone, or on steeper terrain, where its soft construction will allow you to paste as much rubber to rock as possible.

It's designed very much with modern indoor bouldering in mind  © UKC Gear
It's designed very much with modern indoor bouldering in mind
© UKC Gear

However, it's the comfort that marks the Indo out as something special. Its super soft sock knit liner feels great next to skin, and it's the sort of shoe you can wear for an entire session without having to take it off. Perhaps in light of this it's worth contextualising the performance. We are not talking about an all-out performance shoe like the Boreal Satori (which you DEFINITELY have to take off between problems/routes) - it's more recreational than that; however, I have no complaints with the level of performance it has offered and if there was a problem I couldn't do in it, then it wasn't the shoe's fault - it was, without doubt, my own.

Fit

The Indo, much like the Crux, features a slightly downturned, moderately asymmetric last. Both the forefoot and the heel are at the wider end of the scale. There are two different volumes available: a higher volume 'men's' model and a lower volume 'women's' one. As always it's best to ignore the 'mens' and 'women's because men can have low volume feet and women high volume feet. Just go with whatever fits your foot best. The only downside to this approach is that the men's models only go down to UK5 and the women's model only up to UK8.5, so there's definitely progress to be made here in fleshing out a full size range across both low and high volume models. It seems that brands - including Boreal - are beginning to address this.

Despite the Indo having the same fit/last as the Crux they do feel very different on the foot. There are several reasons for this, with the sock liner, in particular, making a massive difference. It's much softer and more supple than the lined microfibre upper of the Crux, giving the shoe a much more flexible feel. The softer rubber has an impact too, as does the fact that the outsole doesn't stretch down as far as on the Crux - and the tensioning system also has cutaways designed to give it more flexibility.

There are two straps on the Indo, a really effective power strap on the top, which effectively locks your foot into the shoe, and a slightly confusing lower strap, which - in our opinion - doesn't do much. We had similar reservations about this same strap with the Satori, and in each case we believe it would have been fine without.

In terms of sizing you'll want to go around a single UK size down from your street shoe size for a comfortable, but sufficiently close, fit; although as always, we recommend trying before buying (just to be sure).

Features

The Indo features Boreal's Zenith Ultra 2.0 rubber, which we were really impressed with back when we reviewed the Satori earlier in the year. Zenith Ultra 2.0 is Boreal's softest - and stickiest - compound, potentially even more so than Vibram's XS Grip, which is very much the industry standard these days. It's obviously great for smearing, but it's also remarkably good at edging too. This must be  partly as a result of Boreal using 4-4.5mm of it, which helps it hold its own on edges, as opposed to creeping off in the way that soft shoes are often guilty of. The exact amount of rubber they use depends on the shoe's size, so the smaller your foot, the thinner the rubber (in order to compensate for the fact that lighter climbers don't need as much support). Another benefit of the extra rubber is that it takes longer for the sole to wear out, which is a real money saver if you're climbing indoors a lot.

The Indo also features a sizeable rubber toe patch, as you'd expect from a shoe designed with indoor bouldering in mind, and with the way climbing walls are setting problems these days these are becoming more and more essential.

Summary

Just as the Crux did, the Indo strikes a nice balance, managing to feel technical without being too aggressive. As a result, it's fun and comfortable to climb in, but not to the detriment of performance. It's definitely best suited towards indoor bouldering, but is equally capable outside if you're on a rock type for which stickiness and sensitivity are a benefit. The price of the Indo is pretty competitive too, as there aren't many shoes of this spec for £120.


For more information Boreal



20 Sep, 2024

great and helpful review, as ever.

may have to see if the LV fits my comp kid daughter well.

And it left me wondering if any resolers are offering this (maybe better than Vibram) rubber on a resole? a quick google didn't show anything so i thought I'd put the question out there to the hive mind?

I'm not aware of any that do. I think Vibram have that side of the market sewn up. It is interesting to see these other compounds improving though. Zenith Pro 2 and Ultra 2 have both impressed me, as has Scarpa's S72. I'm sure there's others too, although these are the ones that immediately sprung to mind.

20 Sep, 2024

i’d guess that vibram does have a leg up at distributing material to resolers because other than making footwear, licensing their outsoles is a big part of their business. whether to sell whole soles and sheet rubber to manufacturers only, or to repair shops as well seems to be a smaller difference in the sort of business they’re doing.

with the in-house developed rubber compounds like science friction, zenith, etc., you’d probably be limited by resolers having an agreement with shoe manufacturers to get original parts. and that i could imagine to be also a question of company size. my resoler of choice is scarpa and la sportiva certified and has access to original soles for their models. according to a quick googling, scarpa has somewhere between 1000 and 5000 employees[1] and ~170 million euros revenue in 2022[2], whereas boreal seems to have <100 employees (their linkedin says between 50 and 200) and a 2024 revenue of 14 million euros[3].

i’d not be surprised if there’s a lower cutoff where it’s just not feasible for a shoe manufacturer to build up such a programme for original replacement parts.

however, that’s me making conjecture and i’d love to hear from someone more in the know.

links: [1]: https://www.linkedin.com/company/scarpaspa [2]: https://it.linkedin.com/posts/scarpaspa_fatturato-crescita-performance-activity-7070001138585993216-T8wx (via wikipedia) [3]: https://www.datanyze.com/companies/calzados-boreal/397525853

20 Sep, 2024

This could be useful to have a a purely indoor boot, saving my outdoor ones from wear. Why do you consider £120 a pair worth shouting about? It's a very average price for a pair of shoes these days.


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