UKC

UKC/UKH Gear of the Year 2024 Group Test

© UKC/UKH Gear

Every year the review team at UKC/UKH put mountains of gear through its paces, with some of the most rigorous real-world testing in the business. Amongst all this some items will always stand out from the crowd, be that for innovation, build quality, or environmental sustainability. Having thought long and hard, we've managed to boil it down to a shortlist of favourites.

So here it is, our Gear of the Year 2024.

Overall Summary

Make and model

Montane

Solution Jacket

Price: £250

What we love: Its strong environmental credentials are the key talking point, but the Solution is also a well-cut and functional all-round shell at a pretty decent price. Top marks Montane! 

Rab

Muon 50

Price: £220

What we love: A light, comfy and well-vented design that feels stripped-back without compromising functionality, the Muon applies the close fit of a running vest to an overnight backpacking pack

Ocun

Ocún Bio Dyneema

Price: £17.49 - £29.95

What we love: A product that looks and feels the same as its petroleum-based counterpart, and which is just as strong - but one made from a sustainable material. What's not to like?!

Scarpa

Force

Price: £140

What we love: All-day comfort pushes a toe towards mid-grade performance in this Rolls Royce of a rock shoe from Scarpa. Looking for support? Use the Force

Mountain Equipment

Oreus

Price: £335

What we love: An innovative new insulation makes the Oreus impressively warm for its minimal weight, giving you a synthetic jacket that genuinely rivals - in some senses, betters - down

COROS

Vertix 2S

Price: £599

What we love: The battery life on the Vertix 2S continues to blow our minds, but the fact it's got so many other features - and can be used for everything - is where its real appeal lies.

Rab

Ultra Mythic 120 and Ultrasphere 4.5

Price: £390 & £170

What we love: Light and packable, but very warm for the weight. Clever features and top-class materials go into making a truly ultralight sleep system able to take you further without feeling weighed down

Sprayway

Torridon Insulated Jacket

Price: £180

What we love: The Torridon Insulated Jacket ticks a lot of boxes. It's warm, it's affordable, and in spite of this it doesn't cut many corners in terms of its performance on the hill.

Black Diamond

Erratic Crash Pad

Price: £350

What we love: It's well-made and reasonably light, but the Erratic's real trump card is its fantastic carry system 

Montane

Alpine 850 Nano Hooded Jacket

Price: £300

What we love: Is it a midlayer, is it an outer layer? It's both - and that's the brilliance of this incredibly lightweight and versatile down jacket

Boreal

Alpha

Price: £75

What we love: Not only do we love the price, but we also love the shoe, which is well-made and able to develop alongside your climbing ability.

Mammut

8.0 Alpine Core Protect Dry Rope

Price: £140

What we love: Featuring innovative cut resistance without a reduction in dynamic properties, this lightweight rope provides added peace of mind in the mountains

Platypus

Quickdraw Filter

Price: £50 - £85

What we love: A compact water filter that's simple to use, sturdy and effective, the Platypus is cleverly customizable, and can be bought with a useful soft bottle

Scarpa

Origin VS

Price: £110

What we love: Who doesn't like a comfortable shoe that's fun to climb in?! 

Solution Jacket £250


From PFC-based treatments and dodgy dyeing processes to composite fabrics that are hard to recycle, waterproof shells haven't always been good for the environment. With the Solution Jacket, Montane have come up with a solution to all these issues.

In terms of environmental cred there are three stand-out elements to this jacket: the Solution dye process; its use of recycled fabrics/materials; and its PFC-free DWR coating. Taken all together, this must be one of the lowest-impact shells on the market, something for which the design team at Montane deserve great credit.

But there's much more to it than that, because the Solution is also a great all-round shell, with a fit and a set of features that should appeal to a range of users - perhaps in particular hillwalkers in search of functional, no-nonsense, durable weather protection. And at £250 it's reasonably priced for what you get, too.

Rab Muon 50 £220


In recent years Rab have made big strides in pack design. We could have sung the praises of their brilliant stripped-back and functional Latok climbing packs, but the Muon series just edges it for us. Daypacks based on the principles of a running vest are becoming increasingly popular, and with the Muon, Rab have applied this close-fitting and highly breathable idea to larger overnight backpacks. The result is a huge success.

Running vest-style chest straps work really well  © UKC Gear
Running vest-style chest straps work really well

From its simple functionality to its lightweight toughness, there's a lot to like about the Muon; but what we think really stands out is the shoulder harness. This combines the padding and supportive frame of a trekking pack with a close fit around the chest that clearly owes its inspiration to the world of running, resulting in a superbly well-balanced and comfortably breathable pack. Another running crossover is the shoulder pockets, which can hold a soft flask and all the loose bits and bobs you need to hand, helping to keep you smooth and efficient on the trail because you don't have to stop to root around every time something is needed.

You could go smaller with a lidless 40, but the 50L model with a standard lid pocket is our pick of the range, with enough capacity for several nights out. Weighing about 1kg for the men's 50L pack (marginally less for the women's version, and 895g for the Muon 40L) this is a lightweight model by most standards, but for that little weight you get a lot of pack with the Muon, which makes few compromises in terms of comfort, support, or useful features.

The verdict? Backpacking just got that bit better.

Ocún Bio Dyneema £17.49 - £29.95


There's a lot to like about Biodyneema. First and foremost, it's made of a much more sustainable material than traditional petroleum based dyneema, using a by-product from the tree and pulp industry. But crucially, it's just as strong - and passes the same safety tests - as standard dyneema, meaning from an end user perspective it's exactly the same.

Ocún have incorporated Biodyneema in a variety of different products and so far we've had a chance to use two - the Hawk Quickdraw and the Twist Tech Eco Harness. Both have impressed us, not just because of the Biodyneema, but also because of the quality of the rest of the product.

In the case of the Hawk Quickdraw, Ocún's hardware is up to an incredibly high standard - perhaps even as high as the likes of legendary manufacturers such as DMM. When it comes to the Twist Tech Eco Harness, it's just a really nice harness with a decent set of features.

All-in-all, it's great to see brands seek out more sustainable solutions and even more so when you can't tell the difference in terms of strength, weight or durability.

Scarpa Force £140


In a market dominated by softer climbing shoes, stiffness and support are rare commodities; but here's a chunky model that proudly bucks the trend. Combining a forgiving fit for all-day comfort, with surprisingly decent performance in the low-to-mid grades, this shoe is a Force to be reckoned with.

Heavier climbers and old-timers, and I count myself under both headings, may err instinctively towards stiffer footwear, but you don't have to be ancient to benefit: shoes with a bit of support make ideal all-rounders, particularly if most of your climbing is outdoors on trad or easier sport, and/or on edgier rock types. A longstanding model in Scarpa's range, the Force, which had an upgrade for 2024, is ideal for this niche.

With a flat, neutral shape and generous width the Force prioritises wearability, and is clearly aimed at the low-to-mid-grade climber. It's a luxurious and beautifully made shoe, too. But it does all this without compromising too far on performance, a difficult balancing act that I think Scarpa have judged perfectly in this case. 

Mountain Equipment Oreus £335


It's always good to see genuine innovation, and Mountain Equipment's Oreus is a great example. Featuring a high tech new insulation, Aetherm, this is the lightest and most packable synthetic jacket for its warmth that they have ever made. Having put the Oreus through its paces in Scotland and the Alps, year-round, we've been impressed by its superior loft and lightness, which feels as good as many down jackets - with the added advantage of working in damp conditions.

The Oreus is made for Alpine climbing  © Tom Ripley
The Oreus is made for Alpine climbing
© Tom Ripley

And it's light enough for spring backpacking  © Dan Bailey
And it's light enough for spring backpacking
© Dan Bailey

"The unique 3D structure of Aetherm insulation provides unparalleled performance characteristics not found in other synthetics," says Dr Matt Fuller, Product Engineer at Mountain Equipment.

It's made of multiple strands of fibre, interlocked within a reflective layer, a structure that allows moisture to dissipate quickly due to its larger surface area, we're told, and which also allows air to pass through to help it dry faster than most alternative insulation. The fill doesn't need to be held in baffles, which reduces stitching and wind penetration. And being highly durable it can also be packed and re-packed indefinitely, with no loss of loft.

Yes it's an investment at this price, but if you're serious about saving every last gram then the Oreus is well worth a look, whether you're Alpine climbing, winter hillwalking, or ultralight backpacking.

COROS Vertix 2S £599


Whilst the COROS Vertix 2S may be only an update from its predecessor, the updates themselves are quite significant. And if there's one item of equipment I've used more than any other in 2024 - this is it. This sort of watch is no longer just for runners.

The updates revolve around its GPS accuracy and heart rate monitor/sensor, both of which have been significantly improved. These improvements, alongside the updated accessories - including the arm mounted heart rate monitor and locking carabiner to attach the watch to whilst you're climbing - mean that it's become increasingly relevant to climbers and mountaineers interested in tracking their activity.

From a personal perspective, I've used it primarily for running, and what's always shone through about it is its battery life. With a whopping 36 days of use / 118hrs standard gps use, this is something that continues to blow my mind. 

Rab Ultra Mythic 120 and Ultrasphere 4.5 £390 & £170


Although technically two products, the Mythic Ultra 120 Modular Down Sleeping Bag (£390) and Ultrasphere 4.5 Sleeping Mat (£170) really work well hand in hand here, and between them represent Rab's lightest and most packable sleep system. Featuring premium quality materials and clever design touches that help keep the weight and pack size to a minimum, this is not your average bag and mat.

Lightweight main fabric allows for full lofting of the 900FP down  © John McKenna
Lightweight main fabric allows for full lofting of the 900FP down
© John McKenna

The bag and mat have a bit of a symbiotic relationship, creating something that's more than the sum of its parts to keep both weight down and warmth high. The Mythic Ultra 120 bag comes without any insulation on the back and relies purely on the insulating properties of the Ultrasphere mat underneath - why rely on the insulation underneath you when it's compressed anyway? Using high quality 900 fill power down means there is less fill weight of insulation needed and this lofts easily with an ultralight but tough face fabric. Additional warmth comes courtesy of a heat-reflective TILT lining. An integrated pillow case to stuff with a fleece or down jacket provides an ultralight pillow for the bag that is fixed and won't fall off.

Extremely compact when packed down  © UKC Gear
Extremely compact when packed down

Underneath you in the air mat you get a tough but lightweight face material, with a double TILT lining to reflect any radiant heat back towards you and ensure the minimum heat is lost to your surroundings.

The pair make by far the lightest and most compact sleep system I have ever used - for instance on a recent summit camp on Suilven I only needed a 20 litre pack. For 2-3 season use in the UK this is all the bag and mat you'd be likely to need, and if saving weight is something that keeps you up at night then you can rest easy with the Mythic Ultra and Ultrasphere.

Sprayway Torridon Insulated Jacket £180


In our gear reviews, if there's one thing that gets commented on above all else, it's price. More often than not brands tend to be biased towards promoting their latest, greatest products, and almost inevitably that means their most expensive. So it's refreshing for us when we get to try more affordable stuff. All the more so when it also succeeds in being very good too. Take the Torridon.

Coming in at £180 it's a whole lot cheaper than the other insulated jackets featured in our 2024 highlights. Weighing 570g (men's Medium, on our scales) it's probably best described as midweight, but it feels like it offers a fairly heavyweight level of protection - both in terms of the warmth it provides and the fit, which helps to keep the elements out. It's generously sized, so fits on easily over layers, and features a decent sized hood (including wired peak) which makes a real difference on days when the weather is wet and windy. As a result of this it doesn't have the smallest pack size, but that's not to be expected given a synthetic jacket of this thickness, weight and price point. This is not a specialised ultra-packable lightweight, but more of an affordable all-rounder.

All-in-all, there's a lot to like about the Torridon Insulated Jacket. It might not be the lightest, but - if anything - it's reassuring how much it weighs, insofar as it feels like it'll withstand bad weather and take the knocks that come with use whilst out and about. For a lot of users - perhaps hillwalkers in particular - this will be the only winter-weight insulated jacket you need, and we do think it represents very good value at the price.

Black Diamond Erratic Crash Pad £350


Black Diamond have a reputation for making consistently good crash pads, and their latest new model, the Erratic, really lives up to expectations.

The Erratic(left) and updated Mondo  © UKC Gear
The Erratic(left) and updated Mondo
© UKC Gear

Durable and highly water-resistant - both things the average UK boulderer will appreciate, its build quality is fantastic (as you might hope from this price tag!). It also comes in at a useful and versatile size, offering a decent landing zone in use while still being light and compact enough for easy portability. But what we think really sets it apart is the carrying system, which features the sort of adjustability and comfort you might almost expect from a mountain pack. Pad design is often a bit underwhelming in this regard, so if you're heading for a long walk-in, this one could prove a game changer.

Montane Alpine 850 Nano Hooded Jacket £300


Montane are at their best when they're making super-light, super-specialist products, and the Alpine 850 Nano is very much the embodiment of that philosophy. It features a premium 850 fill power goose down that's bonded with gold particles - which isn't something you can say about many other jackets - and features Primaloft Gold in high moisture areas (although there's no actual gold in that - it's just really good). It's also 220g, which I think we can all agree classifies it as being ridiculously light....

The Alpine 850 Nano isn't just light, it's also extremely packable, and the combination means that its something I've ended up using a lot, because when it's that light/packable - why wouldn't you put it in your pack? When on it's also impressively versatile. Depending on the season it can either act as a midlayer or an outer layer. Basically you can think of it either as a superlight spring/summer jacket for belay duty, summit stops or camping; or you can use it as a midlayer on the go in winter cold. As a result of this it's something I've used a lot, year-round and across a wide variety of different activities.

Boreal Alpha £75


It's rare that you get change out of £100 for a pair of climbing shoes these days, which is why the Boreal Alpha caught our eye, as it comes in at the extremely competitive price of £75. Cheap doesn't necessarily mean good, but in the case of the Alpha what you get is a well made-shoe that's very able to develop alongside your own climbing ability.

Built on the same last as the best-selling Joker, it combines a forgiving beginner-friendly fit with sufficient performance not to hold you back as you progress. With a medium-soft sole there's enough support in the forefoot for decent edging performance, but still enough softness to get a good amount of rubber in contact on slabbier angles.

Boreal's rubber compounds have been reworked in recent years and we've been really impressed by what we've seen. The Alpha features Zenith Quattro 2, which is their most durable compound, and you get 4-4.5mm of it too, which is above average and means that it's likely to last longer than most.

Mammut 8.0 Alpine Core Protect Dry Rope £140


In alpine and mountain environments, climbing on wandery and adventurous ground can often mean an increased risk in rope cutting potential. Couple this with the desire to take lightweight equipment into these environments for speed, and you might have a dangerous scenario on your hands. One solution is to incorporate highly cut-resistant material - such as Aramid - into rope construction, but this can compromise a rope's dynamic properties. With some clever innovation Mammut have got round this issue, giving you a rope that maintains great dynamic properties, but with the added safety advantage of high cut resistance. It's lightweight too!

Mountain rock - the environment you want to rely on this rope  © UKC Gear
Mountain rock - the environment you want to rely on this rope

While the Alpine Core Protect is quite a specialist product for what may represent a fairly niche concern in most UK trad climbing scenarios, it is a great example of a brand identifying a genuine problem and investing in R&D to address it. Well done Mammut!

Platypus Quickdraw Filter £50 - £85


Whether running, walking or climbing, if you spend time anywhere with livestock farming, or a high density of human visitors, then it may be sensible to filter your drinking water. Models designed for base camp can be bulky and faffy, and that's where lightweight alternatives come in. Compact, convenient and easily customised, the QuickDraw is arguably the best I've seen for easy use on the go.

The filter itself is small, but mighty (like Suilven, behind it)  © Dan Bailey
The filter itself is small, but mighty (like Suilven, behind it)
© Dan Bailey

Small enough to carry in a pocket, but made sturdy enough for the rough and tumble of the outdoors, the QuickDraw comes with various adapters and attachments, and can be bought in different sets with the crucial option of including a soft bottle to hold the 'dirty' water. Three sizes of this reservoir are available - 1, 2 and 3 litres - while at the 'clean' end, the QuickDraw fits two different screw-on adapters: a drinking nozzle; and a threaded bottle attachment.

With a decent flow rate (albeit requiring a bit of a suck or a squeeze) this neat gizmo can can tackle all the nasties you'd be likely to run across in the British hills. Given that the filter unit is good for only 1000 litres, while some rivals might give you twice that, the QuickDraw is not the cheapest option on the market. But its user-friendliness ensures that you're more likely to have it with you - and let's face it, the most effective filter is the one you thought to pack.

Scarpa Origin VS £110


The Origin VS was awarded Best in Test in our recent Indoor Beginner's Bouldering Shoes Group Test, which - given the competition - is quite a statement. It was well deserved, as this shoe has a lot going for it. More than 'just' a beginners shoe, it's equally applicable to more experienced climbers who want something fun and comfortable to climb in. It speaks volumes that throughout much of 2024 these have been my indoor climbing shoes of choice, in spite of many other options - and that's likely to continue into next year.

The use of Scarpa's super sticky S70 rubber is a nice touch, partly becuase it's so grippy, but also because it gels well with the rest of the shoe. It's definitely at the softer end of the spectrum, but indoors it's infrequent that you need that much support, because you're not standing on the footholds for long enough. The addition of the similarly sticky M50 toe patch is something else you wouldn't expect on a beginner shoe, but that's because many beginners aren't starting out on VDiffs anymore - they're starting out climbing on weird and wonderful problems that have been curated for their enjoyment indoors.

The Origin VS features a fairly neutral, flat last that should fit just about everyone (although, as always, we recommend trying before buying). The fact that it's comfortable yet still manages to give a good level of performance makes it really appealing, irrespective of whether you're an outright beginner of just a fan of non-crippling footwear.




2 Dec, 2024

I tried on an Oreus at the weekend and it appears to live up to the hype, exceptionally lofty for a light synthetic jacket! Quite hard to quantify indoors but I'd say the level of wind resistance when compared to a similar weight stitch through down jacket might actually make it warmer than a 300-400g down piece.

6 Dec, 2024

I assume this is the UKC/UKH gear of the year 2024 **for men** given all 14 items are reviewed by men, and presumably deemed the best in their male focussed opinions. When are you publishing the "UKC/UKH gear of the year 2024 for women" article? Come on, you can do better than this.

Sorry! We do have female reviewers, and subject to their limited availability we try to regularly publish reviews by and for women. But it's unfortunate that the core staff review team all happen to be male: that's purely by accident, not design.

Where applicable we always mention the availability of gender-specific versions of every product we review (obviously not in the case of a rope or a water filter). In Gear of the Year, if you click the links to the full product reviews you will see that in every case we have mentioned whether the product is available in both women's and men's versions. Almost all of them are.

A lot of the time the only difference between the two will be fit. So other than photography (and yes, representation does matter) I imagine a 'Women's Gear of the Year 2024' would look the same as the one we have - it would still include the same products.

Do our opinions of the products come across as conspicuously male focused? In this case I'm not even sure what that charge means (other than the truism that we all have our own perspective). What different would you hope to see from a female write up of the Oreus or the Force? It would be helpful to know.

We know we can do better, gender parity in editorial is an ongoing struggle. But I think criticism of this particular gear feature on these grounds is a bit unfair.

7 Dec, 2024

Problem? I see no problem. Therefore there is no problem. Sheesh - that's why there is a problem.

7 Dec, 2024

I can imagine that for legwear ease of refastening in a hoolie with numb hands or gloves after peeing might make a difference for women (though would still effect men to a much lesser extent for pooing). But yes, other than that it would probably only be fit (though that is very personal anyway) and preference or not for perceived "girly" colours that I can think of.

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