UKC

Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Rope Review

© UKC Gear

The Edelweiss Performance 9.2 Rope  © UKC Gear
The Performance 9.2mm from Edelweiss is a triple rated rope, meaning it can be used as a single, a twin, or a half rope. It features a choice of dry treatments (Everdry or Super Everdry) that make it more durable and water resistant and it comes in a choice of colours.

We've had our review rope (green, 60m, 'Super Everdry' treated) since late 2014, and have used it as both a half rope and a single rope for trad climbing and as a single rope for sport climbing.

Here's what we have found...

Sport Climbing with the Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Rope  © UKC Gear
Sport Climbing with the Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Rope
© UKC Gear

Handling:

The rope handled really well straight out of the packet, being slick but not scarily shiny, and we used it with a Black Diamond ATC Guide, a DMM Pivot and a Petzl Grigri 2. It worked fine in all of these devices. 

Over time it has roughed up a little bit, but still handles well and is flexible without being too soft. All in all we think this is an excellent handling rope, not as soft to the touch as some, but we still liked the way it feels. It didn't twist excessively, and was supple enough to easily go through all the belay devices we used.

Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Rope in a BD ATC device  © UKC Gear
Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Rope in a BD ATC device
© UKC Gear
Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Rope in a Petzl GriGri2  © UKC Gear
Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Rope in a Petzl GriGri2
© UKC Gear

 

Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Rope in a DMM Pivot  © UKC Gear
Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Rope in a DMM Pivot
© UKC Gear
Trad climbing with the Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Rope  © UKC Gear
Trad climbing with the Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Rope
© UKC Gear
The Edelweiss Performance 9.2 Rope  © UKC Gear
The Edelweiss Performance 9.2 Rope
© UKC Gear

Weight:

It definitely feels like a lightweight rope. At 9.2mm this is to be expected, but we have found that when comparing ropes these measurements don't really match up! So this feels like a very skinny sport rope, but not ridiculously thin. It certainly isn't a fat 'Outdoor Centre' style rope.

We weighed our 60m rope (after 4 months of use) on the UKC scales and it came in at: 3321g. That makes it 55.35g per metre - the stated weight is 52g per metre.

Top-roping with the Edelweiss Performance 9.2 Rope  © UKC Gear
Top-roping with the Edelweiss Performance 9.2 Rope
© UKC Gear

Durability:

The rope has been used for just over six months by several members of UKC staff. There are few signs of wear, and we haven't had to chop it down. It has held multiple falls on sport climbs, and been used to work a few sport routes too. We have used it trad climbing, but except for a few slumps on the rope we haven't really taken massive lobs!

The rope seems really durable, and we've been impressed with how long it has lasted, as it isn't a thick rope - so we were expecting more wear close to the ends.

Clipping with the Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Rope  © UKC Gear
Clipping with the Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Rope
© UKC Gear

 

Conclusion:

A really good, well handling, durable rope. Not the softest feeling rope out there, but nice to use and hard wearing for a 9.2mm. Light enough (just) to use as a half rope, but better as a skinny single rope for sport or trad. A good buy if you predominantly want a single rope, but might need a half rope occasionally.

 

Edelweiss Performance 9.2  © Edelweiss
What Edelweiss Say:

Performance 9.2 is the hybrid rope that synthesizes the extreme needs of serious climbers. The Performance is a certified half, twin and single rope. The Everdry/Supereverdry treatment makes this rope water and abrasion resistant, extending the life of the rope. Now featuring Unicore, the Performance brings even more safety in alpine terrain and enhanced lifetime. Trad, ice and alpine climbers call the Performance when every gram counts and the slightest bit of rope drag can mean the difference between success and failure on the sharp end.

  • Supereverdry - UIAA Water Repellent : 1,1 % (optional treatment)
  • Weight : Lab-52 g/m
  • Standard : UIAA CE EN892
  • Number of falls factor 1,77 : Single 5 Half 20 Twin +25
  • Material : Polyamide
  • Sheath slippage : 0 mm
  • Impact force factor 1,77 : Single 8.2kN Half 6,0kN Twin 9,5kN
  • Diameter : 9,2 mm
  • Static elongation : Single 8% Half 8% Twin 7%
  • First fall elongation : Single 37% Half 32% Twin 29%

 

More Info: Edelweiss Website

PRICE: £160 60m Everdry / £180 60m Super Everdry

 




16 Jul, 2015
Interesting review, I have found nicely soft and supple for use, but unfortunately found it to not wear too well near the ends where it has fluffed up a lot. I've had mine for a year but only used it for a few weeks of climbing. Great handling rope though. And light enough for big long port pitches.
16 Jul, 2015
Interesting review I note you weighed the rope and calculated the g per m based on 60m did you measure the length accurately too? IME rope lengths are sometimes not that accurate so an extra few metres would make quite a difference to the g per m value
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