UKC

Whilst I'd love to know what you're favourite spots are, what I'm really after is somewhere I've not been yet. Simple bit of fun that may inspire adventure or even healthy debate. Picking a favourite might be hard as there are some places that have that one climb on them that is incredible but the rest is a pile of rubbish.

Rules: No 2 crags can be in the same county or national park and they must be in the UK. Any climbing discipline you like. In addition post a 4th venue that's so overrated that it should be bulldozed into oblivion.

#1 Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff is a predictable one but the classics just happen to be at my comfortable limit. DOWH is an obvious pull but other classics like Britomartis are meters of steady laybacking on that magic flake. The positions, the commitment and the consistant quality of the pitches make it my top spot.

#2 Cairn Gorm - Stob Coire an t-Sneachda For steady mixed winter climbing you can't go wrong here. Realiable conditions (for Scotland) Routes are not too long and the place takes me back to the week we did at the Glenmore so there is a bit of nostalgia as there will be with many venues that are personal.

#3 Beeston Tor is one of the few inland, limestone crags that's not polished to death or falling to bits. The noisey generator at the farm might be off putting but like living on a main road you'll soon stop noticing it and enjoy those grippy pockets of happiness and the multipitch joy of taking ages to finish a route. Largely unknown and quiet.

Bulldoze Agden Rocher is a wall of soil and the routes are not even that good. Everybody goes just once to bag The Whittler but then you have the rest of the day to try and fill your time to justify the trip. The crag only has one purpose, to block the wind on a sandwich break whilst enjoying the spectacular views over the Bradfield valley. Anybody who like this place hates climbing, I'd rather go caving.

I don't know if I feel that way about any crag I've been to. I've been to some shite crags but they're generally acknowledged to be shite.

I'll bite.

St. Loy Cliff,  Beinn Trilleachan (Etive Slabs),  Cuckoo Rock and Combeshead Tor. 

Bulldoze: Stanage.- the whole place is wildly overrated.

I haven't yet thought about a favourite three, but lots of people really like Aggy (I'm one of them!).  True, there are some fairly loose things across the cliff, but loads of decent routes as well and all with those fabulous views   I'm actually disappointed that I've not got much there left to do!

Agree with Gogarth.  Real affection for the place.

I think I will pick one from Pembroke - many are brilliant, but I will go with  Stackpole Head, simply because the challenging access makes it especially exciting.

Then one from the Lakes where again there are plenty, but I'm picking Scafell East Buttressfor quality and majestic lines.  I also haven't done much there, so I've loads to go at.

Better pick one from the Peak as it is my home patch.  I think High Tor is magnificent, if somewhat urban and has line after line of brilliant climbing.

Nowhere that I would bulldoze, but I'm not keen on  Penmaenbach Quarry

Roaches Skyline

Lulworth

Diabaig

Take off and nuke it from orbit. It's the only way to be sure. 

Trevor Quarry

Not sure you can have North Stack and Main cliff as one crag ? 
However, your post so your rules. 
Inspired by your choice I’m going to go.

1. North stack - a spectacular piece of rock. 
2. Huntsman’s Leap - no one can argue with that. 
3. Sharpnose - Not climbed there for over 30 years but had a couple of sensation days.      
 

For the bull dozer all Peak Limestone ( except “Eye of the Tiger” which should be moved to Huntsman’s Leap, and High Tor which can be moved to the West Coast of Cumbria). 
 

Roaches Skyline The scene of some of my most memorable days: bouldering, soloing and leading; headpointing and onsighting. I don't think I'll ever tire of looking out from this apotheosis of grit, past the pine trees and over the Staffordshire plains. Some of the best slabs I've ever climbed, including San Melas (E3 5c), my first onsight at the grade. And I quite fancy having my ashes dumped here. But probably best to chuck them in Doxey's Pool to make sure they don't land on the head of some poor unfortunate half-way up the crag.

Dinas Mot I love slabs, so it's not surprising that I'd choose this as my favourite Welsh crag. Mind you, on a number of the classics my partners have bagged the slab pitch leaving me with the burly sting in the tail - including the finish to Super Direct (E1 5b) and that pokey traverse on Nexus (E1 5b).

Sron na Ciche To end in Scotland, I can't think of many more spectacular locations than this. If only I'd managed to get more done here - and it wasn't for lack of trying, since I made a number of visits to Skye. Luckily, got on Cioch Grooves (HVS 5a) on a lovely sunny day after a couple of washout trips. Still one of my favourite HVSs.

I don't think I can bear to condemn a crag to annihilation. Possibly the worst place I've ever climbed is very close to home:  Haywood cliffs - but even that gave me somewhere to go during the Covid travel restrictions. If you're ever tempted, I'm the fool responsible for putting up Slot Arete (V0).

CLOGGY

GOGARTH SOUTH STACK 

AVON

Can't believe no-one chose Cloggy yet. Best crag in the world 

Worst crag, Cheddar apart from High Rock. I don't like Stanage or Bosigran much either

Dinas Mot for the sheer quality of the rock and the climbing rather than the mere drama of Dinas Cromlech.

Cir Mhor Superlative granite in a splendid wild setting.

Scafell Wonderful mega-classics on superb rhyolite on highest mountain in the Lakes (well, second-highest if  we’re pedantic about the Pike)

I’d be inclined to blow up Taffs Well, except Pine Tree is remarkably good.

There are many others that would get into the top 10-20, such as Cloggy, Sron na Ciche, the Roaches, Chair Ladder, White Ghyll, Gimmer, and Bwlch y Moch.

Bowden Doors

Huntsman's Leap

Cloggy

Those esoteric quarries near Matlock and Wirksworth (apologies to GG)

Baggy Point: from simple high-tide solos of Shangri-La to my biggest ever boat-push on Heart of the Sun, I've had so many of my best days there.

Ramshaw Rocks: as much as I'd have more fun, more climbing and better views at the Skyline, Ramshaw is the only crag I would visit, just to wander round at dusk and bask in the power of the stones.

Idwal Slabs: boring, easy and sometimes crowded, they will always be there, always leading on to higher and better things above. The rock is immaculate and I hope to be able to use those giant, quartz holds when I am a 100.

Crags I don't like are probably crags I have never bothered to visit. So Portland, or all those limestone quarries in the Peak.

Just to expand on my love of the Roaches Skyline...The artist Richard Harrison is a very old mate of mine and he created a painting for us inspired by visiting the crag with me. Although he never gave it a title, I think of it as the Holy Grail: the perfect boulder, seen through a gap in the rocks, waiting beyond the shimmering waters of the pool. It hangs in our front room:

Probably, with variety in mind, Reiff, The Shelter Stone and as much of the Lewis coastline as I'm allowed. Though, if you were to ask me tomorrow, it might well be a completely different selection.

As for bulldozing a crag into oblivion, definitely Gogarth any day. Really just to stop people going on and on about it when, let's face it, deep down we all know it's a bit overrated.

Great show so far, much to add to our list for this year.

Interesting that Stanage is showing up only a couple of times but negatively surprisingly, I'd actually agree though with the exception of Goliaths Groove. Peak Limestone is generally a rubbish day but there are exceptions such as Wildcat. Cir Mor appears in Gordons post but surely that's just a 1 trick pony?

A bit sad and parochial to see so much emphasis on Peak District choss but nothing for Fairhead

You shit stirrer!

Cir Mhor has a classic and hard rock tick

And it's on Arran.

Yes, and it has 3 star routes at VD, VS, E1, E3, E4 and E6. And several of those are absolute classics of their grade.

Fairhead

Gogarth main cliff

Huntsman’s Leap

Cloggy

Carn Dearg Ben Nevis

I refuse to reduce the 5 to 3

1. Carn Gowla for adventure.

2. Stanage for bouldering and sheer quantity of routes.

3. Cromlech for the rock architecture and the red letter days I have had there.

An honourable mention should go to Pentire, but I’ll have to forgo it under the stipulated rules as it’s in the same county Carn Gowla.

Don’t reckon I would lose much sleep if someone dynamited Denham Quarry.

Good shout.  I’ve been once.  That was enough.

Dinas Cromlech, for the sheer majesty and the quality of the mid to hardish grade routes there.

For the second choice I'd have Pembroke South. Yes, all of it, as most of it's just one huge continuous rock face.

Third place is a tie. To maintain plenty to go at and jaw-dropping steepness, I'd go with  Sròn Uladail (Strone Ulladale). But the location and hence difficulty of access isn't ideal, so I'd be tempted to substitute Stanage instead: works well alone or with a partner, on an evening or full day, and with enough quality to keep anyone happy for a very long time.

For demolition candidate I'd be reluctant to nominate anywhere in particular, as there's almost always some fun to be had if you try hard enough. However, this concept is pushed very much to the limit at  Stannington Ruffs and at  Birch Quarry, neither of which would be missed by many, largely because neither has been visited by many, and if they have it's almost always been only once!

Keeping it one to each country, for me these come first to mind:
Shelterstone
Esk Buttress
Cloggy
Of course this omits an important part of The UK in Nor'n Ireland. To include it, were one permitted, I'd have to say Fairhead, it being the only one I've climbed at, but from what I hear it surely is the best there?

Lovely painting.🙂

Your comment about Agden  is born out of ignorance and suggests that you should take your own advice  and stick to the caving pastime which you mention.

UKC clickbait.

Hahaha, got you posting though didn't it! Have a thumbs up.

I'm surprised that more Lakeland venues like Gimmer didn't pop up more. It would be nice to see some destinations in other disciplines like winter, bouldering and dare I say sport. I'm pretty much trad and winter so the posts so far have been great. Seems that Cir Mor has more than just South Face Direct on it. Keep it coming, thanks to all.

#1 The Nose of Dinas Mot - I've done 9 routes on that bit of rock (but not for many years unfortunately) and I'd be happy to repeat any and all of them - slab excellence with some thuggery above - although I suspect I'd need one of them "tight rope" thingies for most of them.

#2 East Buttress of Scafell - only done 4 routes on this but it's got so many outstanding routes all the way from VS up to E9 (?) and all in a great position in the heart of the Lakes.

#3 Stanage - boring answer but there's so much to go at, bouldering, soloing, roped climbing, easy access, bits that stay crowd free, quick hit or whole weekend.

Bulldoze - trying to think of a crag that I've got to and then thought, this looks so crap I'm just going to not do anything - and I'm struggling, I've always managed to do something even if it's not been much - think I'll leave this to those who've had such negative experiences.

Cloggy

Scafell East

Gimmer

Bulldoze - nothing at all: our’s is a broad church and should accommodate all interests, aptitudes and persuasions. Let’s climb what gives us joy, however insignificant or imperfect…

Roaches Skyline Another vote for the Roaches Skyline. Quiet, gorgeous gritstone, lovely view, and long days wandering along with just a pad and a pair of rock shoes. Some of the best soloing and bouldering anywhere.

High Tor obviously, the finest outcrop in the UK, brilliant lines and climbing in a great position above Matlock Bath. All the trad, easy access, and a mix of sport routes as well. Perfect.

An area rather than a crag. The bouldering in the Llanberis Pass running up from the Cromlech Boulders to Cyrn Las. Includes the Satellites, Wavelength and The Meadows. Long Summer days, brilliant rock, quiet, really varied problems, stunning views. Worth lugging a pad up just to do Wavelength.

Worth bulldozing…..probably Lancashire climbing in general, wherever direction you come from it’s on the way to somewhere better, and, like a bad motorway services, you only ever stop once. 😂

my three are

Gimmer

Gimmer

Gimmer

i suppose this doesn’t count coz they’re all in the Lakes.

For the two obvious choices:

Scafell East Buttress

Chair Ladder

and then I'd go for  Rylstone (just don't tell anyone else how good it is)

I'm sure there are worse crags out there that I've been sensible enough to avoid but I've actually done 3 routes on  Ivy Scar Rock Awful sloping slippery slatey nonsense with no obvious lines and even less gear

Top crags - Cloggy (best in Britain) Gimmer (best up North) and Chair Ladder (a mountain crag by the sea).

Bulldoze - hmm, a tricky choice between a crag that has repeatedly seen me off over many years, Chudleigh (the Stoney of the South but somehow worse) or one that only required one visit, Baildon Bank, where by the looks of things the locals have already tried.

You and Sam have been reading my mind. Aside of my facetious post, I was about to nominate Chair Ladder. Wonderful spot, fab rock and lots of routes I could do - unlike Huntsman’s.

Done a bit of homework for you for your next trip to Agden.

UKC shows 166 routes there. I counted 49 of them as being starred, , I think 15 with two stars and one 3*** (and it's not The Whittler (VS 4c)).

So perhaps a return trip there wouldn't be a complete waste of time for you.

1 Pembroke. Exciting access and great limestone, being a sea cliff adds texture to the day.

2 Swanage - my old hunting ground. Always a lot of excitement and terror. Sea cliff as above

3 Cratcliff - great time climbing there

And to bulldoze - Any and all Kent sandstone, horrible stuff.

Chudleigh is great!  Admittedly more of a locals’ crag than somewhere worth driving hours for, but I’ve had many a happy after work visit in the summer.

There’s some quality low to mid Extremes.  Black Death in particular is deserving of its three stars.

Ben Nevis probably a bit cheeky but it's all one crag on UKC

Hawkcraig is just such a nice place to climb, which I think is rare for a sea cliff. Bonus points for rock that is great even when wet.

Roaches Upper Tier is the site of most of my early climbing so hard to discount

If you've climbed there have you also experienced the Malvern magic of  Westminster Arms Quarry (Malvern)? That's another proper "local crag for local people". I've even claimed a new route there: Abbey Cracks (VD).

Climbing once in the Malverns when I lived nearby for a couple of years was quite enough for me thank you. But walking or running along the ridge after work was extremely enjoyable

IIRC Jack Logland described climbing on Ivy Scar Rock as 'the most dunderheaded thing I've ever done.' 

You can’t have “Pembroke” that’s like saying Snowdonia or Langdale

Leave Baildon alone Woods! 

1. Gogarth Main Cliff

2. Carn Dearg, Ben Nevis

3. Wintours Leap

Bulldoze Fairy Cave Quarry or Dancing Ledge!

Tollie Crag Tollie Crag

Black Crag Borrowdale  Black Crag (Borrowdale)

Tremadog generally

Bulldoze: Cows Mouth Quarry  Cow's Mouth Quarry. (but leave the wonderful Rain poem)

You were quite right that my outrageous attack on your favourite pile of soil was completely without justification and was nothing more than clickbait. That said, I'll admit that Baker Street (VS 4c) is a hidden gem. I've spent a bit more time up there than I'd have you believe.

Stanage - it's my little heaven. A sunny day with friends repeating classics, projecting a boulder problem until beating it into submission, clearing my head with an evening of soloing, Christmas Crack on Christmas Day with old and new pals, It's got it all.  I smile every time it comes into view. I've climbed over 1200 routes/Boulder problems on it and still not sick of it. I climbed some of my very first routes on it, and I'm sure I'll climb some of my last on it too. 

Stone Farm Rocks - Yes it's one of the shitter crags on one of our shitter rock types but I love it. I started climbing while living in South London. I wasn't very happy, and to be honest wasn't enjoying life very much, but was given a birthday present of a top roping session at a climbing wall. Along I went and became addicted immediately. I'd go to Stone Farm most dry evenings after work to escape London and other things. Some evenings I wouldn't even climb. Just chat to the other locals and soak in the fresh air. This little, crap crag in Sussex sorted me right out.

New Mills - Another crag that I can happily admit is pretty poor, but I love it. Trad, bouldering, sport, you've got it. It is floodlit. It's one of the only gritstone crags with routes that stay dry in the rain. No walk in. Even has a Kebab Shop next to it.  No crag has saved the day on an iffy forecast weekend as often as New Mills and I love it. 

Some great replies on here. The Roaches has been a consistant favourite all through but I'm surprised Millstone Edge hasn't featured even once. Almscliff is also missing from the lists, where is the love?

In that case you will know that Oak Tree Walk (VS 4b) is one of the Peak's most unusual outings, with its weight dependant crux. Seemed straightforward enough when i was in my prime but twenty years later the crucial holds were miles away....

So anyway:

The Ravenstones

Dinas Mot

High Crag

Fairhead

Scafell (can I have East Buttress too please)

Range East

Though secretly I’d keep Stanage Popular too… 

Over rated 

The Cuillin 

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. My favourite crags aren’t likely to make it on to many other peoples list - mostly because objectively they aren’t that great. Personally, I feel I get lot out of local crags I’ve spend a lot time getting to know rather than superficial visits to the big honey pots.

1. The Padlock - A very pleasant outlook with a big range of soft grades, relatively close to home.

2. Dumbarton Rock - The renowned hardcore venue has its more kind corners once you get to know it.

3. Blantyre Towers - Almost the definition of esoteric this much under appreciated venue provides endurance workouts like nowhere else.

Wouldn’t bulldoze anything. I’m happy for the people that get something out of venues that don’t excite me.

I was about to say Millstone. And Dinas Cromlech and High Tor.

I would bulldoze Beinn Trilleachan. An unpleasant drive and an unpleasant walk for some wet slabs.

I think you possibly need to get out more.

How can you be sure? You’ve never been to the Padlock or the Towers…  

Agden has the best view of any crag in the Eastern Peak; possibly even the entire Peak. It is also really good at certain grades and a bit poor at others, so your detest for it may be due to what level you're operating at. At VS and E1, it's a really good venue to spend an evening. 

My 3 would be

Burbage North. Close, short, boring, and the place that reminds me how good evening summer cragging is each year. Belaying your second up the last climb of the day there as the golden sun dips is incomparable. For all the great climbing on Stanage, the lookout doesn't touch Burbage.

The Dewerstone Magic, isn't it. 

Navigation Quarry Don't ask me why, there's just something about it. 

In the bin? It's a tough one between Avon Gorge and Wintours but I'll probably go with Avon because at least Wintours doesn't have a dual carriageway and Fly Wall is alright. 

Miles away? Probably in the pile of earth 20 meters down at the base of the climb!

In seriousness I've not been in ages but I remember Pyrology (VS 4c) being a total horror to get off the ground on. My mate who is pretty hot in the E grades also had a bit of a 'uh?' moment on it. I'll grant you there's not many places quite like it.

Must have another go at visiting Ravenstones, only time we tried it was pouring with rain on a dry forecast. Managed to get as far as the carpark.

Gogarth

Cloggy

Fairhead

The Dubh Loch, Scafell and Dun Mingulay if you were to press me for 6.

One per country as it seems I can't have 3 in Highland

Shelterstone

Scafell

Dinas Mot

Would have suggested bulldozing one (or more) of the quarries I remember visiting in Leicestershire many years ago but not sure which was the worst

My initial thought was also: Gimmer; Gimmer; Gimmer. Having pondered a little more I feel I should widen my horizons and include: Scafell and Pillar too

There used to be some great routes in Leicestershire quarries but a lot of it has either been blown up or filled in - the best examples IMO:

Huncote Quarry - had quite a few quality 150' routes, nothing worthwhile below VS - but blasting meant that it became one corner of the huge hole that is Croft Quarry which I presume is still being worked - the remaining routes are now rather more visible to the quarry owners than in times past - no idea if anyone has managed to sneak in since the beginning of the millennium.

Whitwick Quarry - requires rather extensive use of a JCB for gardening - had quality routes across the whole grade range - another venue from last century.

The remaining quarries - not so nice, except  The Brand is also a quarry although you'd probably think of it more as a "down the bottom of a garden" crag and  Forest Rock is also quarried and has become a prime venue for hard bouldering.

Tough to pick just three; it might be three different ones tomorrow!

Baggy Point

Sea, sun and an exciting tidal range! So many great routes, at all grades.  So many happy memories…

Aldery Cliff

The only crag where I have any chance of ticking every route, although that’s harder than you might think, even on a crag as tiny as this.  Going there is like getting into a warm bath, twenty minutes from door to first runner, which is why I take people messing with it personally!

Bosigran

What a place!  All grades, friendly to scary, landlocked to very tidal, stroll in to inescapable abseil approaches, rarely repeated esoterica to national classics, it’s all here, plus the seals.

Edit: forgot the demolition site-

Dow Crag

I’ve been up there loads of times and only ever been warm once. It wouldn’t be missed, I’d rather go to Hodge Close.

1. Scafell.

2. Pembroke, Range East.

3. Ben Nevis, almost as good as 1 and more reliable for winter climbing.

One from each principality, very inclusive.

I had no luck with Dow Crag ever. I went up there no less than 4 times to climb, and each time it started to rain hard near the end of the approach walk.

I went once. Got to the crag and realised I had no nuts or quick draws. 

Climbed Nimrod and went home. 

That's a shame. It has many excellent routes 

Enough to get you thrown out the MAM  

Unforgettable day there once doing Holocaust and Tumble - we were rather pleased with oursleves! 

Those 2 I've always wondered about, Aldery especially as the type of climbing should suit me.

Very little grit appearing in the posts. Sea cliffs seem to be dominating.

1.  Sheigra - even just typing the name makes me feel happy.

2.  Meal an Fhir-Eoin - Ardnamurchan is another slice of West Coast paradise. Different rock, climbing and outlook than Sheigra, but the whole experience of climbing on the gabbro of the fairy ring crags is magical. 

3.  Lower Sharpnose - the wild Culm Coast has been another favourite area over a lot of years and scene to some v adventurous days out. 

I also wouldn't nuke any crag (there's some weird climbing perversions out there and everywhere has a local fan).  But I'd be very happy to never ever go back to Chudleigh or Windgather (was dragged there by a friend one time during the nightmare of freshers week).  

That's unlucky. I've only climbed there in T shirts and shorts, usually in September. I remember having to jettison jumpers from half way up Eliminate A and watching them float down to land further out than our bags at the bottom.

!!! Pass the smelling salts. You’re a big softy.

We did Great Central Route on a boiling hot day and the fact that we were actually comfortably warm (but not hot) was even more surprising than what a ridiculous sandbag it is for HVS!

Still doesn’t erase the memories of freezing, sunless stances, interminable wandering pitches and (far more often) just walking on by…

I'm a great admirer of Longland, both as a climber and as an educator. But I haven't been able to find that much written about him. An interview with Jim Perrin, an article by Mark Reeves and obituaries referenced in Wiki are about the sum total. Can you recall where you came across this reference of his to the joys of Malvern climbing?

My word!

As an aficionado is there any chance you could have a look at Complete Nonsense (E1 5b) next time you're there? I think I worked out the line of the E1 eliminate that's referred to but not named  in the definitive guide, and called it this since it continues the The Nonsense Man Start (HS 5a). I reckon it's a good and undeservedly neglected line. I'd like to get another opinion.

I get that, but only because of my age.

I’ve played on various bits of this area but I  haven’t done all of this as a route.  Even the grade of the Nonsense Man Start is very dependent on where exactly you do it but the right hand version would give a start more consistent with an E1 eliminate in the style of the under-appreciated Anti-Digestant (HVS 5a)

I’ll have a look when the weather improves.

Hawkcraig When I lived in the central belt this was my favourite venue, done the routes to death but still enjoy visiting when I can.

Meall an Fhir-Eoin Just superb and the views when topping out are amazing

Kyloe Crag (Kyloe Out) I think I hated it 1st time before getting my head round the grades (can I lump Bowden in as well!)

As much as I would love to bulldoze  Rosyth Quarry it does have its moments.

Notable mentions - 

Gimmer Crag ,  Scafell Crag

Last time i was on Dow it was warm enough to tempt me to take a dip in Goat's Water after we'd finished climbing. It seemed a good idea at the time.

I forgot to add my crag to be bulldozed, my initial thoughts were Bram Crag Quarry but just as Sainsbury's keeps the proles out of Booths, it serves a purpose. Probably Giggleswick.

I think it would either be an early Mountain interview, or, possibly an even earlier interview... it'll take some tracking down, but give me time...

I met him back in 1970, didn't quite realise how famous he was! Very nice bloke.

The question was favourite not best.

It's still an odd selection though but there's nowt as queer as folk.  

Many thanks. I always think of him as the sort of man who gives the great and good a good name. He was excoriating about what Tory Education Secretaries were doing to his inheritance in that interview with Jim Perrin. Are you in the Climbers Club? I waxed lyrical about Sir Jack in a poem about an ascent of The Boulder on Cloggy that appeared in the CC Journal for 2021-23.

Right back in the mid-1970s I was some kind of Film, Media and TV committee of the BMC (I thinkk chaired by Dennis Gray), of which Jack Longland was also a member. We had regular meetings, and I remember him as being very charming but not contributing very much.

I take just great comfort from familiar surroundings.

Can't knock it down to just three, so:

Carnmore (the whole area, not just the main crag), for acres of excellent rock at all grades in a stunning place. 

Stanage, for its inexhaustibility and perfect gritstone

The Nose of Dinas Mot, for concentrated quality 

Bosigran, for lovely granite above crashing waves in the sunset

Demolition? Plenty of candidates on quarried Peak limestone, but the worst crag I've ever been to is the one near the start of the Minffordd track on Cadair Idris. Barely emerging from the hillside, Ape Route has four pitches and every noun in its description either has ”grassy' or ”vegetated” in front of it or actually is a tree. It hasn't made it onto UKC (surprise, surprise).

Cadair is a pile of rubble but then that single, blocky buttress of that classic arete justifies its existence.

Am I the only person who thinks Cloggy is a little overrated? It's good but not mythical status good in my opinion. Personally I think, as a mountain crag, Beinn Eighe is better, but you tend to hear less about it. 

FWIW, I also think Fairhead is overrated. It's obviously has some excellent routes but too many were covered in dirt and sea broccoli to make it "the best crag in the world" in my opinion. 

I think I'd go with Pembroke, high tor and Pabbay personally. 

Got it! It's in the interview with Jim Perrin, Mountain 123 Sept/Oct 1988.

'I remember making my Papa sit on the rope while I was trying to climb the villainous bit of crag called the Ivy Scar Rock on the Malvern Hills, which I think was the most dunderheaded thing that I've done in my life...'

Brilliant. Thanks for tracking it down. I think I need to add  Ivy Scar Rock to my wish list for this year!

You really don't 

You're talking to someone who actually made a second and third visit to  Haywood cliffs. My appetite for local choss is unsated.

You will be stepping on ground hallowed by George Mallory, Jack Longland, Wilf Noyce and Tolkein! (Er - not entirely sure about the last; or the first, come to that.)

Come over to Agden Roacher..... with a shovel and a pick.

Yes, lovely mountain but with no shortage of rubbish rock on it. There are a few other solid bits, though. Triad is good, and people tell me Obsession, Gwydrin and Darker Angel are too. More obscurely, I enjoyed the bottom slabs of Marsum, before it loses itself in grass ledges.

Almscliffe and Cratcliffe are wonderfully concentrated grit venues but Stanage has to be number 1 favourite, given no midges.

Bosigran was a favourite Easter trip in the old days, this must get number 2.

Cloggy was the place to be when I was was climbing well (in the mid-70s) so gets number 3.

Agden Rocher gets my vote for remodelling.

I thought Obession was as least as good as the classic VS's I've done on Cloggy. And Gwydrin, basking in the evenglow, was beyond brilliant and only improved by its obscurity.

Diabaig amazing rock quality in a fantastic location. Great pub too.

Dinas Cromlech such great routes at every grade looking down at the Pass.

Millstone Edge top lines

Its close to where I work so I've had a couple of trips, but wouldn't miss  Eston Nab

Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

Stoney Middleton

Ben Nevis

definition of a sh*t sandwich there 😉

I was only teasing 😁. I've got many fond memories of climbing at Stoney myself actually. 

Glendalough (Ireland)

Beautiful scenery, loads of perfect granite trad and infinite bouldering.

Dinas Cromlech

Not much needs to be said, loads of history and amazing lines across the grades.

Curbar Edge

Good trad lines, plenty of cool bouldering with a short approach as well as some great lines on the edge.

I think I'd bulldoze the Cromlech boulders. What's the point when the wavelength boulders are 10 mins up the hill.