In reply to Dandan:
Thanks me, decent week again, elbows seem to be getting conditioned to a bit of hard work. Slightly tweaky finger which I think is from the new micro-crimp on Fighting Torque so I need to keep an eye on that.
M: Honestly can't remember, rest possibly?
T: Indoor Boulder; ticked the V8! also did 5-7 move hard boulders 4 times with rest the same as work time. All the boulders on the roof are 10 moves or more so I just did the first 7 moves, so not complete grades but did 4x V8, 4x V7, 4x V6, 4xV5, really pleased with that.
W: Bodyweight Antags; repeated the 45 degree manna progression which was great, also managed a 17 second handstand!
T: Indoor Boulder; went to Boulder Central for a change, it's too far really, with the horrendous evening traffic it took over an hour and a half to get there, just not worth it! Might as well head somewhere outside if I want to drive for that long! Did a load of stuff up to V6, then 8x 30 move circuit with rest time the same as work time. It's good that they have a circuit board but it has 5+, 6a, 6c, 8a circuits, not the best spread! I did the 6c circuit and reduced the rest times to make it harder.
F: Rest
S: More garage destruction, now I've cleared the site, I have marked out the position of the new garage, it's going to be massive!
S: Decided against going to Portland as we had a lot of stuff to do, turns out it wasn't a bad choice as it was literally too hot to climb in some places! Went to Calshot instead, which was almost as bad of an idea, it was sweaty. Greased my way up half a 4x4 but gave up due to excess sweat.
So yeah, my right index finger is a bit sore at the top joint, it feels more bruised than anything and it was a gradual thing so not a tear or anything too horrible. It feels ok to pull down on, its only when I get on a tiny crimp that bends the first joint backwards that it is a problem. I'm going to chill this week and hope it clears up quick. Two and a half weeks to Kaly, but at least being unable to use tiny crimps should really cause an issue out there! Hopefully I can still perform at my Lattice assessment next Tuesday, can I do the one hand hangs on just one arm?
Last weeks STG:
3 climbing sessions - TICK
10x10 second free handstands - 4/10 but did do a 17 seconder!
Repeat 45 degree manna progression x2 - TICK
Tick V8 indoor problem - TICK
Go outside, Mrs Dandan wants to go anywhere but Cuttings! - NOPE
Don't spanner myself before Lattice assessment end of July - Well, slightly tweaky finger.
Next weeks STG:
Bit of finger TLC -
MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - improvements below
Get outside a couple of times - 9/2
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Think of new MTG's for next week - To do
LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October - Going well...
Tick Besame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October - This is going to be a walk in the park (i hope)
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds
BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...
Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16* *56kg, 185% bodyweight 8/7/16*
*One arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16* *1-4-7 both arms 17/5/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a 5/5/16* *4x7a+ 19/5/16*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between