In reply to guy127917:
> Ally Smith - What does tin foil in the pockets do? Dry it out or provide some sort of lining? Not heard of that before…
It acts as a (fairly low friction) liner - mixed success with that on my roof project, as it makes an already tight pocket slightly harder to fit my fat fingers into.
Overall, a mixed week; lurgy wiped me out for the first half of the week, which had a knock-on effect for the weekend. Need some good nights sleep to recuperate now.
Week 33
M - Nowt. Could still feel the #DOMS. Lurgy hanging on
T - Nowt. Lurgy moved from throat to guts; maybe different lurgy? At least the crag is soaked whilst I die quietly from viral plague.
W - Nowt. Just about starting to feel human again.
T - Lurgy mostly gone - so decided I needed to wake my body up before the weekend. Random FB’ing and assisted 1-armers before FoC to failure. 298s – not quite a PB, but certainly puts me in the ~f8b+ RP region based on previous benchmarks. With this as a measure of stamina, I then worked through the “economies of training” table from
http://www.stevemaischtraining.com/the-economics-of-training.html (strong/moderate/weak substituted for the Icelandic phrases)
Strong; narrow pinch, plank
Moderate; 1/2 crimp, Wide pinch, Push up,
Weak; Middle 2 open, Deadlift
Unknown/not tested; Pull-up (1 rep max), Pull-up (BW reps, strict),
Not tested, but fairly certain I’m weak; Push-press (1 rep max), Bench Press, Back Squat
Looks like pocket strength is an obvious thing to train, as well as overall body strength/antagonists – the former could be particularly important if I can wrangle a trip to Montsant/Margalef/Siurana winter ‘16/’17.
F - Nowt – stretched and foam rollered only.
S - Kilnsey. Tie-in#1 (TI#1); dogged and dried entire 40m roof project, fairly damp to very wet for majority, except oddly the final Mandela crux.
TI#2, appalling RP - didn’t even get into the crux pockets due to other dampness. Sacked it off.
TI#3 dogged back-up project #2.
TI#4. Did first half project, then came off the top at the bowling ball pocket (bloody hard work for the fat of fingers, so decided to crimp the sloping edge of the pocket instead). Re-worked it.
TI #5. Flash of
Stumped (7a+); defo 7b.
TI#6, stripped project. Fairly beasted, then slept badly because of multiple over-night phone calls for on-call other half.
S - Much needed coffee, a morning of chores, then an epic drive back to Kilnsey (unpassable 20mph flat-cap Sunday driver all the way from Skipton to Kilnsey). Much drier, but too busted to get on roof project.
TI#1, dogged back-up project #2.
TI#2, RP effort, falling at the bowling ball pocket again. Re-worked it.
TI#3; same deal. Think I’ve finally got a method for getting fingers in solid, which makes the next move so much easier, but takes some oomph out of your left arm as you lock-off for a few extra seconds.