Trad Harnesses What's Available

A selection of the latest trad/all rounder harnesses for 2011. Top-of-the-range harness technology such as Arc'teryx's 'Warp Strength Technology' and Black Diamond's 'Kinetic Core Construction' are explained, and there's something for everyone in here to suit budgets from £120 to £50.

Arc'teryx R-320a RRP £120

It's expensive, but Arc'teryx claim this is the most comfortable fully-adjustable all round rock harness available. Arc'teryx introduced WST technology in 2008, and for 2011 they've upped the stakes even further: altering the weight, shape and width of the harnesses to make them even more comfortable, supple and superlight.

What is WST? Most harnesses have webbing that wraps all the way around to the buckle and padding to add comfort. Arc'teryx eliminated the need for padding by making the webbing itself wider and more comfortable. How? They remove the weft fibres from a set length in the middle of a strip of webbing, leaving only the warp fibres behind. Warp fibres represent the strength in the webbing and weft fibres give the webbing structure. Then they spread out the warp fibres, which retains the webbing strength, laminate them to give the webbing structure and wrap them in a durable face fabric. More in this UKC News Item: VIDEO: Arc'teryx 2011 Harness Designs.

Arcteryx R320a, 67 kb


  • Warp Strength Technology (WST) swami adds suppleness while distributing weight evenly
  • Fully-adjustable lightweight WST leg loops fit a variety of leg widths
  • Non-structural haul loop
  • Four gear loops
  • Two drop seat buckles
  • New, improved tie-in point
  • Wear safety markers on belay loop and tie-in points
  • Self-locking buckle
  • Stretchy mesh storage bag
  • 7075 T6 aluminum anodized buckles
  • Materials: Burly Double Weave four way stretch fabric, type 66 nylon webbing, Polyurethane gear loops, Spacermesh
  • Weight: 325g

More info: on the Arc'teryx website.

DMM Renegade RRP £65

A comfortable all-round adjustable harness featuring seven gear loops, a padded but ergonomic waist belt that allows freedom of movement and comfort when belaying. The belay loop is rated to a hefty 25kN.

It features a nifty floating waistbelt so that you can centre the gear loops. The Renegade can come with either Slide Lock buckles (Renegade) or with Threadback buckles (Renegade Pro).

DMM Renegade, 23 kb


  • Three sizes.

Small: 435g: Waist 64-79cm / Leg 45-58cm
Regular: 450g: Waist 75-91cm / Legs 50-63cm
Large: 480g: Waist 87-104cm / Leg 55-70cm

  • The Renegade incorporates a floating waist design which means the six diagonal gear racks (and one conventional rear rack) can be aligned symmetrically on your waist for perfect racking.
  • Adjustable leg loops use a Slide lock buckle system to give a secure fit with massive adjustment.
  • Waist buckle is a Slide lock design, although a threadback version is available (Renegade Pro).
  • Twin hypalon ice screw racking systems.
  • Twin drop away bum straps for calls of nature.
  • True unisex sizing.

More info: on the DMM website.

Black Diamond Chaos, 95 kb

Black Diamond Chaos RRP £89.99

Optimised for long days on route, the Black Diamond Chaos harness is a premier all-day trad climbing harness. The bullhorn-shaped waistbelt features BD's 'Kinetic Core Construction'.

What's that? Multiple thin strands of 'Vectran' (liquid polymer fibres) spread across the harness and sandwiched between taffeta and lightweight foam creates low bulk strength; an added breathable padded lumbar insert provides top-notch comfort on hanging belays and multi-pitch routes. The abrasion-resistant shell material holds up to nasty offwidths and grinder layaways and a Speed Adjust buckle allows easy on/offs. Four pressure-moulded gear loops and a 12 kN-rated haul loop ensure everything you need for a big climb can be properly organised.


  • Pre-threaded Speed Adjust waistbelt buckle
  • Bullhorn-shaped waist built with Kinetic Core Construction
  • 4 pressure-molded gear loops and 12 kN-rated haul loop
  • Adjustable, releasable elastic rear riser
  • Soft, breathable 3D mesh lining and abrasion-resistant shell
  • Weight: 400g (med)

More info: on the Black Diamond website.

Wild Counry Elite , 259 kb

Wild Country Elite Ziplock RRP £74

Cool, clean and modern, the Elites are Wild Country's most fully featured, stylish and comfortable harnesses to date, designed with no compromises for the multi-discipline climber. With strong visuals and clean lines these harnesses ooze quality, backed up with the confidence of a host of great features. With 'Comfort Mesh' and Ziplock buckles making adjustment a 'cinch'.


  • Ziplock waist buckle + Ziplock leg loop buckles
  • Exclusive 'Comfort Mesh' foam belt
  • Exclusive Tie in point wear indicator
  • Offset 10kN Haul Loop + 'Hideaway' pocket
  • 10kN Accessory clip-in point
  • Self aligning rear hitching strap
  • Mesh carry bag
  • 'Batwing Belt' shaping
  • Five gear loops
  • 25kN Belay loop
  • Single clip off point drop seat
  • Weight: 507g (small) - Ultralight version also available

More info: Wild Country Harnesses.

Petzl Adjama, 269 kb

Petzl Adjama RRP £70

Designed to perform across summer rock, winter ice and year-round mountaineering, the Adjama is an all-rounder. The Frame Construction waistbelt with breathable wicking mesh provides maximum support and comfort, while adjustable leg loops help when using skis or crampons.

  • 'DoubleBack' buckles are pre-threaded and adjust quickly with a single pull, helping to ensure proper closure.
  • Green belay loop helps users identify proper attachment point.
  • Reinforced tie-in points for increased durability.
  • Gear loops: 4
  • Rigid, inclined front equipment loops for easy access to gear
  • flexible rear loops stay out of the way while wearing a pack.
  • Trail line loop.
  • Two CARITOOL slots.
  • Sizes: S, M, L
  • Weight: 420g (small)
  • Women's version: Luna

More info: on the Petzl website.

CAMP Jasper CR3, 229 kb

CAMP Jasper CR3 RRP £59.99

The CAMP Jasper CR3 is a popular harness due to its combination of comfort and versatility. Another all-rounder, it features a sliding waist system that allows the padding and tie-in points to be perfectly centered. The new contoured cut provides great support during extended hanging sessions and climbers will appreciate the stiff, webbing reinforced gear loops that keep gear close to body on the back and at the ready near the front.

  • Available in Orange/Grey or Black/Grey
  • Sliding Waist Belt System
  • 3-mm Perforated EVA Foam
  • Edge-Load Construction on the leg loops
  • Patented No-Twist belay loop
  • 4 webbing reinforced gear loops and a chalk bag loop
  • Patented Flat-Link elastic straps with drop seat
  • Can take the CAMP Gear Hub for racking ice screws
  • Weight (small): 464 g
  • S: Waist 60-76 cm | Legs 48-58 cm
  • M: Waist 70-86 cm | Legs 56-66 cm
  • L: Waist 80-96 cm | Legs 64-74 cm

More info: on the Allcord website.

Edelrid Jay, 134 kb

Edelrid Jay RRP £51.95

One of the most affordable harnesses of the bunch, the Jay is a quality bit of kit nonetheless. Suitable for trad and general all-round use, the Jay features a number of innovations including a special membrane construction to enhance durability and a unique load distributing sewing technique.


  • DuPont Hytrel membrane construction for enhanced waterproof durability and abrasion resistance.
  • Triad system sewing technology allows the kettle webbing of the leg loops to lie flat against the body for improved load distribution. This enhances comfort and sit for the wearer.
  • 4 flexible gear loops
  • Adjustable leg loops with 20mm buckles
  • Positionable waist padding
  • 28mm Easy-glider buckle system for ease and speed of operation at the waist
  • 470g construction
  • Available in sizes: Small / Medium / Large
  • Colour(s): Slate/Oasis

For more info: / 01539 733842

Ophir 4, 84 kb

Mammut Ophir Harnesses RRP £50-£65

And finally, the new range of adjustable harnesses in Mammut's Ophir line is now in the shops. They're all built using Mammut's two-part webbing construction to ensure maximum comfort, breathability and freedom of movement, and are available at extremely competitive prices.


  • Special two-part webbing construction ensures maximum comfort - see for more information
  • Full safety and easy adjustment through 3 Slide Bloc buckles (4 on the Ophir 4 Slide for even more adjustability)
  • Patented tie-in protector prevents the harness from abrasion damage
  • Indicator webbing on belay loop for added safety
  • 4 gear loops
  • Functional drop-seat buckle
  • 5Kn Haul Loop

More info: on the Mammut website.

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