If you're expecting foul wet conditions, this Gore Pro jacket offers solid protection from the elements, and great breathability. From Alpine climbing to UK mountain rock and hillwalking, this is a versatile, well-cut and usefully lightweight three-season-plus shell, says John McKenna.

The Berghaus MTN Guide Alpine Pro Jacket is a light technical shell designed primarily for mountains. The cut and features are ideally suited to summer climbing in the Alps, while here in the UK it's versatile enough for year-round use both hillwalking and mountaineering, albeit a bit close-fitting for easy layering in colder weather, and a bit lightweight for full-on winter climbing. Outside the most demanding Scottish winter uses, if you're expecting foul conditions on the hills then this jacket offers solid protection from the elements, and great breathability. Its Gore Tex Pro Most Rugged 3-layer membrane gives it complete weatherproofing with enhanced durability compared to other Gore Pro products. Tested from summer and into early winter, it's been a reliable companion during the many wet days we've had in recent months. 

In Use

Thanks to the jacket's fabric, fit and feature set, it handles mountaineering well. Its solid build and reliable weatherproofing make it great to have on any outing where you'll be encountering grim wet conditions. I've felt happy on long rainy walks in the hills where the jacket has kept water out while still allowing sweat to pass through. Mobility remains excellent thanks to the well-tailored construction, and features like pit zips prevent overheating if doing anything strenuous.

We don't always need a full-weight Scottish winter climbing fortress; for a lot of uses, something lighter may in fact be more suitable. At 418g on the home scales, this jacket strikes a great balance: lightweight enough for summer use, and to carry on crag days just in case, yet durable and substantial enough to handle the typical wear and tear of mountain environments - everything outside the harshest winter weather and the more demanding Scottish climbing. Thanks to the GORE-TEX Pro Most Rugged fabric it shrugs off abuse, though as with all modern fabrics it will need regular washing to maintain the performance of the DWR. Durability in general has been reassuring, letting you focus on the activity rather than worrying about protecting the jacket against rock or dirt.

If you are planning to do a lot of summer mountaineering or need a jacket versatile enough for various activities, the MTN Guide Alpine Pro is well worth considering. However, if you are only going hillwalking then you may not get full use out of some of the features, such as the helmet-compatible hood and harness-compatible napoleon pockets. And at the more demanding end of the spectrum, if you are wanting to extend its use into winter climbing then the lighter fabric's durability may start to become an issue, and fit may not allow for suitable thick layering underneath. For these reasons we think it's best considered a 3-season shell, plus a bit.

Fit

The MTN Guide Alpine Pro Jacket is available in both men's and women's versions, and offers a straight cut that works well with light to midweight layers. At 6ft and relatively slim, I find the size medium provides excellent freedom of movement. The jacket's articulation is excellent, allowing a full range of motion with minimal hem lift – ideal for scrambling and mountaineering, though it lacks the space for thicker winter insulation underneath. Sleeve and body length are both spot-on, offering great coverage without any tight or baggy areas.

The hood fits well over a helmet, offering good protection and freedom of movement for climbing. Without a helmet, however, it feels oversized and baggy, making it prone to catching the wind in strong gusts. Two adjustment points at the neck and a single point at the back of the hood bring the volume down to an extent, but a more tailored fit could improve its versatility for non-climbing uses.

Fabric

Here you get Gore-Tex Pro 3L 40 denier with Most Rugged Technology - the usual mouthful... This has performed really well, offering excellent waterproof/windproof performance, and plenty of breathability, keeping me comfortable in harsh weather. The 40-denier construction strikes a tough yet lightweight feel for 3-season mountain use, while for more physical Scottish-style mixed climbing I'd generally be looking for more like 60-70D. The micro-grid backer adds extra abrasion resistance, and in general the fabric has really held up to dirt and contamination. Each time I've taken this out it's remained cleaner in muddy or gritty conditions compared to many other jackets - and potentially this is also due to a really good DWR. It's not clear if this is PFC-free.

Features

The Mountain Guide Alpine Pro features a well-executed and thoughtful design. Two deep napoleon-style chest pockets provide ample storage for essentials and are easily accessible, even with a harness or pack. The stepped sleeve cuffs add extra protection for the back of the hands in wet conditions – a nice practical touch. The generously sized pit zips are excellent for quickly venting heat and moisture during intense activity. Inside, a small zipped pocket offers secure storage for valuables while maintaining a sleek, low-profile interior. The hem drawcord is effective but could benefit from an internal adjustment or an anti-snag loop for better harness compatibility. Reflective details on the back, hem, and labelling enhance your visibility in poor conditions - another nice addition. All in all I like the feature set on this mountain-oriented shell.

Verdict

A solid mountain shell with top-in-class fabric to match, the MTN Guide Alpine Pro has provided me with great protection in the hills through summer and autumn and into the transition to winter. It's consistently held up to some grimy days out with the fabric still looking fresher than I'd have expected - and for this reason you'll be paying somewhat of a premium for it. The fit and features work well for mountaineering, striking a great balance for use with a helmet and harness. While the hood feels a bit baggy without a helmet, it's a minor drawback in an otherwise reliable three-season-plus shell that I'll be reaching for time and again.