UKC

South West Sport Climbing updates for Rockfax Digital Gear News

© Rockfax

As part of our monthly updates to Rockfax Digital we're pleased to announce two whole new sport climbing crags: New Quarry at Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area) and  Churston Quarries. In addition we have major updates to  Brean Down and  Uphill Quarry.

Brean Down  © Rockfax
Brean Down
© Rockfax

New Quarry is popular because of its well-bolted sport climbs from 5c to 7b+ and Churston Quarry near Brixam and Berry Head is a lovely cool spot to escape from the heat in summer (we wish we were doing that right now!).

In addition there is a major update to one of the best sport climbing crags in the southwest - Brean Down. Loads of new routes plus a full topo describing all the complex link-ups at this excellent year-round venue. We've also published an updated guide to Uphill Quarry just to the east of Brean Down with some new sport routes and updated documentation of some of the existing trad routes.

Now that lockdown is easing it's the perfect time to try some new sport routes and get that fitness back - if we're lucky we might even see some sunshine!

New Quarry  © Rockfax
New Quarry
© Rockfax

Peak Bouldering Rockfax Digital  © Rockfax
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New climbs are added every month, so whether you're a boulderer, trad or sport climber, Rockfax Digital gives you all the information you need to go climbing wherever and whenever you are.

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20 May, 2021

Went to Churston a couple of years ago and had a good, if greasy, time. Glad it's on the app as finding it just using the website was a little tricky.

21 May, 2021

Descriptions are right but the lines are the wrong way round for Skulking agent Bulking agent at New Quarry.

21 May, 2021

Thanks. I have alerted Mark G who will look into it.

Alan

Thanks, it is a numbering error on the Topo. 2 and 3 are the wrong way round. Will be sorted asap

22 May, 2021

Alan/Mark,

I'm a bit confused about this. As crag moderator I seem to have lost the ability to make changes to route grades etc. There have been a couple of inexplicable grade revisions at Churston, one of which is on a route that I don't think has ever had a clean second ascent. When I did the first ascent I worked it with a number of other people and consensus was it is mid 7b, yet for some reason it has been upgraded to 7b+ on the UKC page. I have reported this as incorrect but have not has a reply and the grade hasn't changed.

This in itself is not a big problem but is symptomatic of a bigger issue - if the point of running UKC is to have a consensus view, surely the crag moderator should have the autonomy to be reactive once that consensus has become overwhelming, otherwise what's the point of the system? Both grade revisions that have been made for routes at Churston I have put up I disagree with...and, more importantly, had no clear cut consensus in the grade voting box (one had a 3,3 split between 7b and 7b+...and the other had no votes ar all). Krushmi Chedda on the other hand has been strongly voted to be 7c (which I would go with even though I thought it 7c+ when I did the first ascent) yet that has stayed as 7c+? I'm really interested to know what the thinking is on this.

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