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Tears of the Dawn by Jules Lines, 2nd Edition from SMT Publications Gear News

© SMT Publications

. . . Over 1,000ft up, on the final icefall of South Post Direct on Creag Meagaidh, one of my axes won't come out. In sheer frustration, I pull on it too hard and it flies out, hitting me between the eyes. The humming of bone rings intermittently in my ears. I thread in and out of consciousness, hinging away from the ice, helplessly out of control, and I end up dangling from one axe leash and a crampon point. My survival instinct cuts in, regathering my wits, reattaching myself in an oblivious state of shock. I feel the tickling sensation of warm blood streaming down the bridge of my nose and into my mouth, its taste metallic and salty. My first reaction is to check my head wound, but I can't take my hands from my axes, so I have to endure the silent torture until the wound and seeping blood has frozen into a crust. I have been lucky; it was the ice hammer that had come out and hit me; if it had been the adze which is in my other hand, it might have had different consequences . . .

Julian Lines soloing on Arran  © Dave Cuthbertson
Julian Lines soloing on Arran
© Dave Cuthbertson

Tears of the Dawn  © SMT Publications
Jules is one of Britain's most accomplished free solo climbers and over many years has gained an awesome reputation. In this Boardman Tasker Award winning book, he gives a rare and candid glimpse into the mind of one of climbing's most audacious and determined legends.

Tears of the Dawn is a journey unlike any other. With artistic eloquence and an unexpected humbleness, Lines recreates the triumphs, tribulations, friendships, romances and perhaps most poignantly of all, his close encounters with death, leaving the reader breathless, on edge, and, as the sunlight breaks, dreaming of mountain tops, oil rigs and a sense of adventure.

Spanning more than three decades of extreme climbing, Lines, fondly known as 'The International Man of Mystery', unveils the drive and determination required to push all limits and survive the most ultimate and extreme precipices the world has to offer.

The crag loomed ahead with an appealing array of aretes, cracks and chimneys, but the sandstone felt soft and grainy, which did not exactly instil confidence. Eventually I came upon Time and Motion. I looked at it in doubt; it was not greatly appealing, and I was more than a little disappointed. Then, when I looked at the landing below the arete, I stared in disbelief. A dilemma - I had to weigh up how badly I wanted to climb the route against how likely I was to fall off. Further complicating the equation was the fact that nobody knew where I was. If I fell, the best I could hope for would be a couple of broken bones. Having driven for over three hours, and having walked for almost an hour, it just wasn't in my nature to quit. I was here to test both my technique and the limits of my fear. I certainly wasn't going to walk away without even making an attempt.

Julian Lines on Shere Khan, E7 6c  © Dave Cuthbertson
Julian Lines on Shere Khan, E7 6c
© Dave Cuthbertson

This heartfelt and at times humorous, adrenaline infused account is more than a story of adventure, it is a tale of obsession, addiction, passion, courage and the ability to push boundaries. Beautifully designed and illustrated, for dreamers and realists alike, Tears of the Dawn is an awe inspiring and toe tingling tale to be enjoyed by all.

In the bar, time began to dissolve; noises became chaotic, shapes morphing, the whole scene effervescing and sparking like nuggets of sodium in water. My mind grew intoxicated, misfiring like a scratched movie starting and stopping, hallucinating between short phases of reality as images appeared and disappeared randomly. The noise and heat of the bar dematerialised, and in the next instant I felt a warm wind caressing my face, and then silence, apart from the tap, tap, tap of footsteps and a dark, cobbled street pulsing with shadows – I must have been on my way home. With whom though? Darkness rolled in again, and all was at peace. Then a chink of light spilled through the darkness and a naked, copper-hued, feminine form appeared in the light.

'Who are you?'

Reviews

"Tears of the Dawn is brilliant - a new climbing classic"

"A beautifully written book. Anyone who has experienced rope-free soloing in isolation will recognise the thoughts and feelings so elegantly expressed in Jules Lines' prose."

"A Fantastic book - even if you are not into climbing. I couldn't put it down and my heart was in my mouth the whole time. Beautifully written, this daredevil takes his life in his hands for the fun of it, and plays Russian roulette with his mortality. Poignant too. A must read book."

Boardman Tasker Winner 2014

Boardman Tasker Award Winner 2014

Podcasts

Alongside the 2nd Edition we've recorded two podcasts:

Tears of the Dawn is an interview with Jules, whereas Vanishing Point features Jules reading from the book.

About Jules

Jules is one of Britain's most accomplished free solo climbers and over many years has gained an awesome reputation for his achievements in what is a totally unforgiving sphere of activity. He continues to explore the mountain and sea-cliffs of Scotland, searching for challenges of the highest quality in some of the most remote areas of the country.

About SMT Publications

Scottish Mountaineering Trust Publications publish a range of titles to create a greater appreciation, and inspire exploration, of the Scottish Highlands. Profits from our books go to the Scottish Mountaineering Trust (thesmt.org.uk) which is a Scottish-registered charity. Purchasing an SMC or SMT publication helps the Scottish mountains and the communities that enjoy them.

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