When it comes to single ropes, it's tempting to assume that thicker and heavier necessarily equals more durable and longer-lasting. But the Eagle Lite Protect Pro Dry challenges that conventional wisdom.

At 9.5mm it can be considered relatively skinny by traditional standards, and at 59g/m its weight is roughly on a par with other single ropes of this diameter. But with high-strength Aramid fibres incorporated into the sheath, this is a lightweight single with a particularly durable feel. Although we think it best suited to longer multipitch routes on rough rock, we have tested the 70m version of this rope over the last few months single-pitch sport climbing in the UK, and we've been suitably impressed.

• 50m: £200
• 60m: £230
• 70m: £255
• 80m: £280

The price tag is high, but this is an innovative product based on painstaking testing and development, and one that ought to last better than your average thinner single rope.

Construction and Treatment

In recent years Edelrid have tried to get the the industry to focus more on cut resistance in ropes. Today modern climbing ropes have progressed to a technical level where rope failure due to overloading is less common than failure due to cutting on sharp edges - think sharp crystals on granite, or this...

To tackle cut resistance, Edelrid have introduced Aramid fibres into the construction of their Protect series of ropes. Aramid is essentially kevlar, known for it's high strength and heat resistance. They have also pioneered an edge-cut test that took years to develop. Philippe Westenberger, Head of Product at Edelrid, explained the test to UKC at the ISPO 2019 trade show:

Although Aramid is exceptionally resistant to cutting, it is inherently a static fibre, making it less suitable for application in dynamic climbing ropes. Nevertheless, Edelrid have successfully combined it with polyamide to produce a rope that boasts a high cut resistance while retaining the required dynamic properties to meet the standards of the single rope test.

The rope is also treated with Edelrid's Pro Dry which will ensure minimal water absorption (1%-2%) and increased dirt resistance. I haven't taken this rope to any particularly wet environments like you would see winter climbing, but at the base of muddy or dusty crags the rope has been quick drying and hasn't gunked up as much as other ropes without a dry treatment. This will obviously mean the rope is not as heavy in the wet and should also help with longevity.

Thermo Sheild heat treatment is used to align the core and sheath yarns. This is claimed to give the rope a longer service life, prolong the time before the rope becomes stiff, and give it suppleness. Having only tested the rope for a few months, I can't yet see any signs of stiffness but the rope has felt supple, albeit with the addition of more static feeling Aramid fibres. 

On top of all this, the rope is middle marked during production and comes with Edelrid's 3D lap coiling, meaning you just need to pull it out of the packaging and you can immediately start climbing without the worry of twists after initially uncoiling.

Durability

This is where the Eagle Lite Protect Pro Dry really shines. Obviously, an increased cut resistance will prolong the service life of a rope that may otherwise experience something like a core shot. This may be reason alone to justify shelling out a bit more money for a rope like this if it saves you buying another in the long run. If you are using this rope in alpine environments where ropes tend to run over edges more often, then the additional margin of safety is very attractive and arguably where this rope's primary use lies. This will also allow you to save weight by opting for a thinner diameter rope that still inherits the same cut resistance as a thicker and more traditional single rope.

Currently, Edelrid are the only manufacturer testing for 'cutting length'. This is a metric based on the distance a serrated cutting disc can spin on the tensioned rope before it severs:

If cut resistance is a high priority for you then it may be useful to see the difference in weight saving across some of their products. We have listed a few options below to see where these lie:

Taking a look at these figures, you'll get a ~35% increase in cut length metric for a ~13% decrease in weight/metre if you were to opt for the Eagle Lite Protect Dry versus Edelrid's thickest sport climbing rope, the Cobra.

Separating out cut resistance from durability, this rope has seen a bit of furring with what I think are the Aramid fibres. At first this seemed to happen quickly but has tailed off relatively fast. It's hard to really say, but after the initial furring of these fibres, I'm confident that the rope is furring consistently with other dry-treated ropes I have used in the past. In terms of softening, the rope hasn't felt like there has been much of a change and feels like it could even be more resistant to softening, since in general it is a stiffer rope.

Handling and Performance

Immediately out of the box, you will notice that this rope feels different to many others on the market. There is a very slight grippy feel to the outer surface, which I assume comes from the Aramid fibres which are incorporated into the sheath. I quite like the handling that this gives the rope, especially on my braking hand, although this is very slight and doesn't massively influence things. If this is something that puts you off then this texture does fade after a few uses.

The Aramid also gives this rope a bit of a stiff feel for a dynamic rope. When giving the rope a squeeze you can feel that is it quite a dense weave, which allows it to run through a belay device quite smoothly in comparison to a softer rope. This smooth handling through a belay device is also helped by the rope's relatively thin diameter; as a belayer it does need a bit more attention than a grabby fat rope might. 

When it comes to a fall scenario, the impact force is relatively large (8,7 kN) and dynamic elongation isn't revolutionary (32%). Due to this, it may not be your preferred rope for repeated falling when hard redpointing or in scenarios where you want a large amount of stretch in the rope for marginal ice placements etc.

Instead, the Eagle Protect Pro Dry is more appropriate for sport climbing in multi-pitch and alpine environments, where falling is less likely and you are often trailing your rope across sharp edges or rough rock. In comparison to using a standard triple-rated rope for alpine sport multi-pitch, the added weight to cut resistance safety may be one to consider for these days. Back in the UK, this would be my rope of choice for short hard routes on rock types where sharp or abrasive edges are a danger (think Gritstone edges or places such as Reiff).

Eco Credentials

Edelrid are one of the few climbing rope manufacturers to have Bluesign certification. This is a globally acknowledged benchmark for environmentally responsible and sustainable textile manufacturing. In essence, Edelrid's rope production employs reduced quantities of water, CO2 emissions, energy, and chemicals in comparison to conventional rope manufacturing processes.

Summary

The Eagle Lite Protect Pro Dry is no doubt a high-quality piece of equipment that offers some of Edelrid's visionary innovation in the field of dynamic climbing ropes. It strong cut resistance will allow you to consider a thinner rope in environments where rope cutting is of particular risk. In the UK it is maybe a bit of a niche product as we don't tend to climb on single ropes in the mountains where these risks are much more apparent. Therefore, the additional price tag may put many off. But if you're heading abroad for multi-pitch routes on Alpine granite then this rope together with a tag line could provide the perfect balance of peace of mind, performance and weight saving in comparison to a thicker rope.