UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

Last week’s thread can be found here: 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/fit_club_week_595-691054

You can look back at your previous posts here (to some extent… it’s still a work in progress, this now goes back to FC500): http://ukc-fitclub-user-posts.s3-website.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/users.html

Posters:

AJM 

Tyler - ankle still swelling a lot?

Si dH - sounds like Taylor Made is coming together nicely. Any ticks to report from Wales?

Tom Green - nice one!

Richard Popp - keep plodding on, it’ll ease soon. Did you get out on rock? I find that a good day out can do wonders for the head

Cyan - sounds like some strong times at the wall at the minute. Well done on the mono, how’s the knee been?

hms - Font 7A and a multi session siege sounds like a harsh exchange rate to only Fr7a+. Good indoor dedication, I need to knuckle down soon really and try to get fit for Smith!

biscuit - sounds like good if surprising progress at Trowbarrow! Did you get back this week?

AlanLittle - nice job on the 7a tick!

Ally Smith - enjoy the holiday. Nice one sneaking a few more ticks in

Rebecca Ting - congrats on Animal Magnetism! Classic tick.

Planetmarshall - interesting the lack of correlation between indoor and trad performances, I find much the same, quite different pacing I guess, plus a strong trad head can overcome many other weaknesses...

Dandan82 - well done in the comp, although it sounds like a slightly pyrrhic (near-)victory given the elbow flare up?

Powderpuff - you been back on the finger then - how’s it feeling?

Ardo - sounds like a brilliant bivvy!

the sheep - how’s the hamstring? Bad?

mattrm - sorry to have missed you at the weekend. We didn’t make it out of Dorset in the end. M being ill just wiped everything out!

Fit Club 600 goals:

AJM - some DWS (Gates of Greyskull, Crazy Notion, Z-Cars, Crab Party, Freeborn Man, Window of Opportunity), some E2/3 (2x E2), 10/13 weeks of consistent weekday training (6/8)

Dandan82 - 6000s handstand (3008/6000), +60kg pull-up (tick!), 6 fr7 onsights in a day, 60s handstand (51)

Richard Popp - a new 7a

Ally Smith - 8b/+ x2 (0/2), 8a/+ x5 (3/5), 7b-c+ x10 (7/10)

Si dH - Ancap routine at recommended load (75-ish/80)

Planetmarshall - E2 onsight

Tom Green - 600m new route in Kyrgyzstan (Tick!!!)

Rebecca Ting - more DWS, Animal Mag (tick!), something in Cham (Petit Aig Verte and Cosmiques), solid base of E1-3, convincing handstand (tick)...

Tyler - 6 new routes (4/6),  6 new >E1 (0/6), 6 crags that you’ve not visited in the last decade (1/6)

biscuit - Trowbarrow traverse (progress), black circuit, 11% body fat

 

In reply to AJM:

Thanks for the write-up. Yes I am starting to think that maybe 7b might be nearer the mark!

M - cycle commute.Yoga in evening.
T - cycle commute. Home via UCR: warm-up (4 circuits), then 1min on/2min off x10 on steep 7a, rest then 1min on/1min off x5 on 6c+. At this point someone else arrived and started doing circuits whilst totally ignoring the fact I had a timer going, so 5x 6b+ circuits as closely spaced as I could manage.
W - cycle commute. FB 7/3/60, 10 min rest then continuous hangs (which felt weak), further rest then another 7/3/60.
T - Skivved off work to taxi D1 to airport. On to TCA. Warm-up then boulder triples. Hopefully I got the level right - chose steep problems which I could flash with a bit of effort. Lunch then lattice min on/min off x10. On final one just kept going and got to 45 moves which I was fairly happy with. Evening: pinch grip, wrist curls, Is Ys Ts with weights on swiss ball as back/shoulders were sore.  
F - Core session.
S - Sea Mills traverse. May have launched at it too intensively as got a painful forearm pump. Due to the recent rain I was probably overgripping too - it felt just a bit greasy and I wasn't trusting the feet. Spent about 90 mins playing. Lunch then when back home squeezed in 7/3/6/1 x10 before the MiL arrived.
S - 3 mile brisk walk. TRX Is Ys Ts. This week I think 1 did 1 extra aerocap and was down 1 ancap as the missing ancap wouldn't fit in after traversing and no way did I want to FB with the MiL around!

In reply to AJM:

Hi AJM,

Finger is still sore day to day.

I went to the wall on Thursday having given the finger 2 weeks rest, just climbed on jugs, felt very little discomfort.

I'll try and manage 2 super easy wall session this week.

On the positive side I've had a break through with my diet. Im quite a heavy climber especially for my height (5ft 8 and 11-12 stone).I eat too much good and bad carbs, however carrot sticks in my lunch box are helping me avoid temptation of late

Carbs are the devil!

 

 

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy.  Yes I got a couple of things done thanks including Clever Beaver (V7) which I had worked on a bit last visit. 

Goals:

Caviar

Powerband

7B+ on my next Font trip. 

FitClub600, goal: complete an ancap fingerboard session at 80% of max hang weight.

M: rest

T: fingerboard, but stopped quickly as I felt something go very weak in the back of my right shoulder (down below the inside of the shoulder blade) and my right elbow started hurting. Definitely a chain effect. I think I must have slightly pulled a muscle or something at the weekend on the crux section of Taylor Made. Decided to rest for the rest of the week. 

W:  rest

T:  rest

F: rest

S:  rest

S: Parisella's today.  Did Clever Beaver (V7) and flashed Parisella's Original (V6). Second ever 7A flash I think. Then spent quite a while working the start of the full (7B) version of Left Wall Traverse. Managed to get a sequence to the start of the 7A+ version (which I've done before) eventually but it was fairly hard so the full link would be tough. 

Good day today. Hoping shoulder / elbow are now OK so will try another ancap fingerboard session on Tuesday. 

Si

In reply to Powderpuff:

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/health-45195474

there are carbs and there are carbs....

In reply to AJM:

Thanks me.

Been a bit of a toughie, this week.

tuesday - Winspit after work. Roped climbing! 2.5 trips up Lunacy Booth (7c). Worked out a sequence although my partner had some refinements I need to try. 3rd go was a bit frustrating, linked the thuggy/campus start nicely (the first holds are reached from a cairn, and are on the lip of a monster roof), got to the bottom of the main crux roof feeling pretty good, and then my arm started cramping really painfully. Not paying attention to water/etc I guess. A bit annoying. But if I can make Ed’s beta work as well as it seemed to for him exiting the kneebar, then it feels a fairly viable proposition.

wednesday/Thursday - I love the smell of vomit in the morning. Sickly child time. 2 days trying to work from home with a quite perky child to look after (he was quite happy except for during the actual moments of being sick). Long trying days to get everything done.

friday - tired. Original plan of a Pembroke trip had been canned for South Devon, which then got canned in favour of staying at home. But it was sunny and I didn’t want to work so we went to Conner Cove. I didn’t get much done, and again felt unhappy over on the Funky area (third time lucky next time getting my head straight?), but it was a glorious day. I did Crime Wave (E2 5c) and failed to even get as far as last time on The Great Shark Hunt (E4 6a).

saturday - also tired. Swanage. Just seconded Rebecca on some stuff. Philatus one to come back to, good climbing.

sunday - feeling less tired. But infant running a high temperature. So haven’t done anything.

Hoping this week will be better - a Tuesday evening and a Devonian bank holiday, I’m hoping?!

In reply to AJM:

STG: Find climbing partner(s) for the remaining summer weekends at home & get back on the new projects - see below
MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

Thanks Andy. This week: London for a couple of days, home, climbing

M: 
T: Arch Biscuit. Fairly random bouldering session with the youth, plus got into trying some things with the friendly locals: most enjoyable. Rounded off with some minimum edge hangs on their Beastmaker crimps, and wanted to immediately rush out & buy some until I saw how much they cost. Visit to the hardwood section of the local diy store to follow when I get home.
W: Travelling
T: Home. Unpacking, chilling, an hour stretching & mobility

F: Morsbach. Due to logistical cock-ups that I'm not going to admit to in detail, but that weren't quite entirely all my own fault, what was planned to be a trip to Konstein to get on an old project or two ended up at a different crag in a different country. A crag where being in the shade of trees didn't compensate at all for being south facing, thirty degrees & probably the most sauna-like conditions I've ever attempted to climb in. A crag that is home to a "6b+" with a crux move I couldn't even remotely see how to do; felt like English 6c. It *might* be one of those moves that's two grades easier when it's twenty degrees cooler, but then again it might not. So given that I may never figure out how to do it, and if I do I only get a 6b+ tick for it, I think I won't be adding it to the project list. Does this make me a bad person?

S: Frankenjura, Kalmusfels. Found a nice north facing, shady crag today but it was still very warm & a bit greasy. Here I did add two routes to my project collection, both of which get 7b+ (UIAA 9-). One of them is nowhere that, felt more like 7a/+ to me unless there are some eliminate rules that the guidebook doesn't mention. Did all the moves individually in my first two attempts and linking them shouldn't be much of a problem; it's two short hard sections separated by a no-hands ledge then an easy slab, followed by a romp up a juggy arete to the top (assuming the juggy arete is in, if not it would be much harder) Feels like it should go in another day. Consensus on 8a.nu is 7b though; perhaps I'm climbing better than I think I am. 

The other definitely is 7b+, or at any rate substantially harder than anything else I've ever done, but probably doable as a longer term project. And really good. The fly in the ointment is a desperate boulder problem start using a sharp  and painful pocket, circa font 6C. This leads to a no-hands rest on a ledge, after which the rest is pure excellence: ten to twelve metres of technical edges and little pockets up a gently overhanging rounded prow. No real rests, although the holds get bigger towards the top where it gets steeper. Modern user friendly bolt spacing too, unlike on most older Frankenjura routes. Have very much *not* done all the moves on this one yet. 

S: Frankenjura, Dachlwand. Plan was to do onsight mileage on easy routes, but heat and pain from worn out fingertips stopped play after half a dozen.

In reply to hms:

Yes ive seen this story, shock horror the Atkins diet is not good for your health!

In reply to AJM:

Hi all. Thanks for the statting AJM.

The last week has been a unique one in that I did absolutely no exercise or climbing but it was completely guilt free!

Last week was a planned 'do nothing week' -deliberately set aside to recover not just from the Kyrg trip, but more from all of the training and planning that led up to it. Until starting the TFTNA programme that was focussed on peaking for Kyrg I had never done any structured training and I found it quite taxing mentally as well as physically. Because of this I'm taking the TFTNA advice to have a complete break/change of focus quite seriously, even though I'm more psyched than ever to start working towards the next set of goals.

Next week is also going to be a planned chill -maybe a casual run for fun or bit of bouldering, but nothing serious. Then transition back in to training the week after -hopefully super hungry for it after two weeks off!

This down time has given me good opportunity to reassess my goals, how they link together and what I need to work on to have a good go at getting them done. 

STG/Q3:

New routes in Kyrgyzstan (/)

1 Trad session per week ( )

1 Session of either dry tooling or bouldering per week ( )

Start new TFTNA cycle ( )

(Dropped the El Cap nose day as that was really a measure/milestone towards Kyrg rather than something I desperately want to do in its own right. It will probably happen at some point, but is no longer a big goal).

MTG/Q4:

Jaz (D8)

North Face Original Route (ED1)

LTG/Q1:

Scottish tech 7

Improve off-piste skiing (crust, powder, in the dark, etc!)

The Ginat (ED1 5)

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy - obviously no update on the logbook this week:

8b/+ x2 (0/2), 8a/+ x5 (3/5), 7b-c+ x10 (7/10)

Week 33

M – Stretching/foam roller only.

T – An-cap campus. A little better than last time (8x 25 moves; failed at move 23 in last set); still irritates my elbows. 10x 7/3/6/1 on lattice edge @ BW. A bit too intense as felt powered out not pumped; probably a symptom of the previous session.

W – Day 1, cycling South Downs Way. Winchester to Buriton, then steak night. 48km, 800m

T – Day 2; rain all day. Buriton to Washington (then back to Storrington for accommodation). 53km, 1120m

F – Day 3; Storrington to Iford. Felt longer than the previous day, but Strava said not. 50km, 1030m

S – Last day; Iford to Eastbourne. Missed out the last descent into Eastbourne town as airshow was on. 30km 700m. Watched Red Arrows as our finale after finished on top of Beachy Head instead. Even from a distance I can confirm how much of a lunatic Mick Fowler is for climbing that crumbling pile of choss…

S – Walk around the village, then drive home

In reply to AJM:

Morning Andy - I see you've settled in seamlessly whilst I've been away. Cheers for stepping in.

 

So I've done nothing since I've been back, just moved into the boat and a short trip to Wales that involved walking.

Switzerland was great, I was there just over three weeks before popping by the Frankenjura on my way home - a nice place but it made me realise how pretty the Peak is and I doubt if I'd make the effort to go back there.

So Swizzy - no Salbit West Grat. Seemed daft when I was driving down there to even be thinking about it after breaking the foot and toe, so instead it was a wonderful trip comprising multiple visits to an amazing new crag, one multipitch and a new grade. Rachel S popped by for a couple of days and called it the best crag she'd ever been to. I'd agree. 'On the Beach ' is accessible by abseil, a jumar exit, is perfect granite starting at 6b up to projects still to be done when it's colder that will probably be 8a or so. You're above water, there's a glacier dominating the skyline, it's south facing with a huge belay ledge with shade. The climbing is fantastic. René and Pierre have crafted a masterpiece and I feel privileged to have been invited to climb there.

Ticked my first 6c. Maybe a handful of goes on it but it didn't feel hard once I had the sequence sorted. I went on a couple of others and was happy that they'd go with more goes - my previous best was a couple of 6b+ and this trip I was leading them cleanly for warmup some days. Yeah, granite is alright. Had a great day with Rachel at an older crag, 7 tie-ins each and I was happy to even be able to get to the top of the same routes as her, that's progress for sure.

Myself, Pierre and René had a great morning on Conquest of Paradise in Furka Pass, René topping out at 9am on the Hannibal Tower - first up and first to the bar, just how multipitch should be.

Also got up a 6b+ laybacking that is as hard as it gets for my dodgy wrist. Failed last year but this year, thanks to mates telling me to keep going when I'd given up, I topped out. A group ascent is what it should be called, the people you climb with can make all the difference.

Great food, great people, amazing scenery. It was super as usual.

Oh yeah, climbed a 5 in Frankenjura that was the best 5 I've ever been on. Just wonderful technical climbing, it'd have been a few grades harder in Spain for sure and it was a pleasure to climb it.

 

So need to get the brain back in gear, sort a routine out and get climbing in the Peak on Saturdays as I can't do Sundays anymore. All change.

In reply to mrchewy:

What was it?

You're right, the Peak is prettier but the limestone in the 'jura is way better than most Peak sport crags

In reply to AJM:

Last week's goals - 

• 4.5 hours of Z1  
• Continue the Strength training, but incorporate more leg work  
• Introduce some fingerboard training. Maybe incorporate it into other strength work  
• If it's wet, try some of RandallCorp's Aerobic Power routines. Probably at the Depot.

All achieved apart from the Z1, which I just need to pull my finger out on.

Mon - Strength & Conditioning & Hangboard. Weighted Pullups, Ring Dips and Max Hangs. 

Wed -

AM: Yoga
PM: Depot was absolutely rammed due (I assume) to the closure of Rock Over. Did the 'Capacity Power' workout from Crimpd on the circuit board 6a. Misread the rest interval as 5 minutes ratther than 10, so can probably afford to go a bit harder next time

Fri - Strength and Conditioning. Core, Weighted Pullups, Incline Bench Press and Box Steps. Max Hangs on the Beastmaker.

Sat - Trail Run. Ladybower - Derwent Edge Loop (15k/400m/2hr) https://www.strava.com/activities/1781021938

Sun  - Indoor climbing at AW Sheffield. Hot and unpleasant, failed on 3 6bs on the overhanging wall for reasons other than lack of physical ability. Wish I'd waited and gone outside.

STG

* 4.5 hours Z1
* Combine some AeroCap with the AeroPow training
* Gogarth at the Bank Holiday Weekend. On the wishlist:
** Hombre (E1 5b)
** Gogarth (E1 5b)
** North West Passage (E1 5b)
** A Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c)

MTG
- Ama Dablam Nov 2018 - now booked

 - Routes : 

The File (VS 4c)
Suicide Wall (HVS 5b)
The Hen Cloud HVSs

The Right Unconquerable (HVS 5a)
The Left Unconquerable (E1 5b)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)

- Problems

Crescent Arête (f5+)
Banana Finger (f6A)

LTG

- US/Canada trip in Winter 2018

BHAG

London Wall (E5 6a)
The 1938 Route (ED2)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)

In reply to AJM:

 

Cheers, it hasnt been too bad, more of a painful niggle. Enough to make me not want to do more damage. Was off all week with the kids so seemed logical to take some rest time. Went for a run Saturday morning and managed a gentle 7.5km which was good 

 

 

In reply to AJM:

Thanks for statting AJM. When I return to Conner Cove I promise to have psych for Fathoms and at least fall off trying Freeborn!

Quiet week for climbing but heavy week of bad sleep and too much work followed by a fun Dorset hit-up:

Conner Cove: Troubled Waters (HVS 5a), Donald, Where's Your Trousers (E2 5c), The Conger (E2 5c) (with wet feet!) onsight, and one attempt but backing off before the crux of Freeborn Man (E4 6a).

Subluminal: Frustrating failed foot kick to a hold meant I dropped the onsight of Stroof (E1 5c) so will need to go back for it, then hummed and hahed and finally got on Philatus (E3 5c) which was very enjoyable once I had some gear in, then a quick repeat of Freda (VS 5a) with Ali - as delightful as ever and super invigorating with some loud crashing waves and darkening skies.

 

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy, I can't be too upset by it to be honest, I pushed things pretty hard and asked a lot of my elbows so a bit of a flare up was only to be expected. The good thing about the overuse issue is that it tends to disappear after a couple of days so there is no lasting damage.

M: Core; new session, pretty easy circuit style session but I have been given instructions for increasing some of the reps to make it a bit harder, will do that next week.

T: Indoor boulder; 4 on 4 off. After *ahem* warming up by doing the 5 weekly comp routes (hard ones this week), I did this AeroCap session, it's a nice level, not as dull as 8 on 8 off and a bit more effort required.

W: TRX; still enjoying this session despite it being flipping nails

T: Gym; Bench 3x4x65kg (slightly low as sore from TRX the previous day)
Squat 3x4x80kg (new PB)
Farmers walk 4x12mx100kg (new PB, loving this exercise)
Deadlift 3x4x100kg (felt super good, no explodey back and I felt I could have lifted more)
Indoor Boulder; Threshold up; 30 moves, rest equal to climb time then 28 moves, 26,24... 12. Two sets. I really like this session too, it's good and hard. 

F: Nothing, bit of DIY club planing a door flat

S: Fingerboard; 10s hangs on small edge (bottom outer bm2k) went up to about +25kg
Indoor routes; 7b route in pairs with 1 min rest, 5 sets. Tried to change things up and use a different 7b for this (from a choice of, er, 2), it was just a bit hard and I got significantly pumped which is rare for me, this probably indicates my inability to pitch the sessions right rather than any ability to avoid pump, I feel like I should be experiencing this more often but I just can't seem to build pump on demand. I think deep down i'm just not trying hard enough a lot of the time.

S: Nothing, elbow flared a little from Saturday so I rested it and will just do core tomorrow as well to give my arms a full 2 days off.

So a pretty good week all things considered, I got 7 of 7.5 sessions done, it's a shame we didn't manage to get outside but it was probably wise in terms of volume of activity for the week. Some friends are coming down to Portland this weekend coming though so hopefully we can get out at least once.
Handstands are still going really well, I hit my original goal of 3600s on Saturday and i'm on track to hit 6000s by week 600. It's now a bad day when I don't get a 30s handstand, I managed it 9 days out of the last 11 (twice over 40s!). I've started toying with the movement for handstand push ups, I think they will be happening soon.

FC600: 6000 seconds of handstanding - 3761/6000 seconds. Stretch goal - 60 second hold! - 51/60
+60kg pull up - +60kg!
6 onsights 7a or higher in a day (in Kaly) - Picked Secret Garden as a potential venue...

STG: (last week)
* 1 min hamstring stretch every day - FAIL 3/7 At least I'm doing some
* Every session on plan - 7/7.5, nearly!
*  600s handstands in a week - TICK, 752/600

STG: (this week)
* 1 min hamstring stretch every day - 
* Get outside at least once - 
* Every session on plan - 
* 1 handstand push up remaining balanced for 2s after -  

MTG: (up to Kaly in September)
* Onsight 7c in Kaly, suggestions welcome
* 7c in a day on Portland
* 3 good ring muscle ups in a row
* Squat and Deadlift 100kg - Sq-80kg DL-100kg

LTG: (This Year)
* 150 ticks in logbook - 104/150
* tick 3 x 8a - 0/3 * tick 10 x 7c/7c+ - 4/10
* Squat and deadlift 2x bodyweight
* Go to Kilnsey - August with Ally?
* Get to December without any new injuries
* reasonably static muscle up
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last

BHAG:
* Onsight 8a+/Redpoint 8b+ in a day by March 2022 (40th Birthday)

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy. Just booked a week on Lundy in September. So need to try to fit some trad in over the next couple of weeks. And find my gear. Etc. Anyone got Lundy recommendations VS to E2?

Mon - Thurs: Wall. Short sessions. Slowly working through the problems on the 45. So into steep bouldering at the moment.

Fri: Rest.

Sat: Epic drinking. Like being a student again. But without the youthful resilience.

Sun: Blacknor. Suffering but climbing surprisingly well. Very close on Through the Barricades (7a+).

In reply to AJM:

Knee has settled again thanks! But need to actually do some strength work I think as sooner or later I'll stop getting away with it.

In reply to AJM:

Still knackered but managed to get my shoe on for the first time on Saturday. Did some fingerboarding on Thursday and had a surprisingly (or not) sore stomach on Saturday. Another weekend of socialising and this week is a bit hectic but after that I'll get back on it. Got an email out of the blue from a friend asking if I wanted to join them in Spain in Nov so that's something to aim for as well as another week in Dec

In reply to Cyan:

Very jealous, I was thinking only yesterday I'd love to go back!

Nothing particularly esoteric, but all the starred stuff I've done has been excellent - diamond solitaire, indy 500, albion, immaculate slab, Venus flytrap and so on. Things I haven't done but wanted to - destiny, redspeed, double diamond, ocean, American beauty, that sort of thing...

Have fun! Keep an eye out for our photos in the guide

In reply to Cyan:

I was only there once for a few days, long ago. American Beauty and Satan's Slip were the most memorable routes.

Take all of yours and all of your mates' tiny wires for Satan's Slip, and do some endurance training for the muscles in the arches of your feet.

In reply to AlanLittle:

I did try to remember... now I've forgotten. Solid rock compared to the Peak but pockety lockoffs like Margalef just doesn't work with my wrist. Mentally I'd finished in Swizzy if I'm honest and was heading to FJ to catch up with friends.

In reply to AJM:

Was an excellent bivvy and need to get some more done, so hopefully weather will hold out for a bit longer.

No climbing, but went canoeing and also got down the wall in-between moving/cleaning/storage for flat: what have I done!!!

•We: 12 problems: 2*6.
•Th: 3 & ¾ hrs  canoeing.
•Sa: 12 problems: 2*6; 20 ARC. Same boulder set as Wed, but felt less physically challenging and done in less time.

Currently investigating canoe buying possibilities, instead of kitchen units.
 

In reply to AJM:

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 2lbs (1lbs loss)

M - S - Rest

Basically I've been feeling utterly exhausted all week.  Each night, I'm like, I'll climb this evening.  Then by the time I'm ready to go, I'm too tired to bother so just bail.  Diet has been passable.  Otherwise that's it.

Deeply impressed by Tom and his Kyrgyzstan antics.  Something I'd love to do.

 

In reply to AJM: Thanks Andy, yes I did manage to get on rock, yes I have plodded on. First full week back at work which was tough but I went fairly easy on myself.

M-Weights and fingerboard.

T-TCA, indoor bouldering feels tough, be good to get some new problems set as ones I focussing on quite greasy.

W-Sally in the Woods-unplanned and felt tired after three days of pulling quite hard.

Thursday-Rest+Yoga

Fri-Yoga+Rest

Sa-Cheddar, almost did not go, damp, tired and hip playing up but went. Good to see old friend. Very mixed session, climbed badly but managed to get up hard 6b+.

Got on a 7a I have not done at the end of the day-to tired to make any assessment as to its doablity.

Su-Weights and fingerboard

Whole week felt tough but with a few rays of sunshine.

Rich

 

In reply to AJM:

Cheers for the stats Andy. 

It was a bit surprising but last week I found out why.

Two visits to Trowbarrow. On the first I was feeling good but conditions weren't. High hopes for the second visit and it went, which was nice. However the reported 7b+doesn't feel right at all. It's supposed to be the same grade either way, with some saying that the L-R I was doing is a touch harder. Personally I wouldn't argue with 7a+.Red Traverse (7b+) There's a hands off rest just before the pump fest at the end. Still it's all good training. My plan now is to do the full thing each session, minimising the rests and to repeat from just before the crux through to the end as many times as I can without resting. This is where all the intense, pumpy, climbing is. 

Repeaters session got me up to 6 sets before failure this time. So that objective marker is improving. 

I failed on a routes session as I only managed an auto belay session before coaching and nothing after (no partner). 

Leg physio went well with 5 sessions and progressed onto new exercises. 

Diet quality is going well. Calorie counting isn't. Not going to weigh myself for a couple of weeks.

No point putting the goals for this week up as it's nearly done.

I need to start going up now instead of traversing. I've set myself a new FC 600 target of climbing Fiesta at Kendal wall. 300m = 12 routes on the steep main wall copying the grades of the pitches of Fiesta: 6a, 6b, 7a, 6c, 6b+, 6b+, 6c+, 6a+