The West Country encompasses a number of counties in southwest England, and boasts a multitude of rock types that run from limestone to granite with some shales and slate included in the mix. The landscapes shift from rugged coastlines and idyllic countryside to expansive moorlands and serene river valleys - given all these attributes, it comes as no surprise that the region offers an abundance of high-quality trad climbs, making it a haven for teams operating at all grades.

However, it's the somewhat old-fashioned grade of Hard Severe that I have always regarded as offering some of the finest routes in the region at a level accessible to most regular trad climbers. A 'grand tour' of these climbs—whether done in one go or over the course of many years—would rate as a highlight of any climber's career. The routes presented here are a perfect blend of technique, exposure, and natural beauty, making them truly unforgettable experiences.

West Country Climbs is included on Rockfax Digital, with additional coverage that isn't contained within the printed guide. Rockfax Digital also includes access to:

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The Phoney War (HS 4b) - Shorn Cliff - Wye Valley.

Shorn Cliff is a particularly good limestone trad mecca for the lower and mid grade climber and The Phoney War is one of its favourites. The line is a full-height flake-crack that is well-protected and sustained but never desperate, and provides a good starting point to begin an exploration of the rest of Shorn Cliff's delights.

Left Hand Route (HS 4b) - Wintour's Leap - Wye Valley.

The North Wall of 'The Leap' is an impressive sight, especially from afar with teams in action on it to give some sense of scale! Its four pitches get easier as height is gained, with the crux on the first pitch, but the second pitch needs good route-finding skills.

Zelda (HS 4b) - Wintour's Leap - Wye Valley.

As befits a crag of its massive size, 'The Leap' is home to another classic multi-pitch that gives fine varied climbing as well as superb views of the river and surrounds, once above the tree canopy.

Golden Fleece (HS 4b) - Symonds Yat - Wye Valley.

Another tree-shrouded cliff located on the banks of the slow flowing River Wye that has some fantastic lines but a lot of not-so-fantastic rock! Nevertheless, the well travelled lines are well worth tracking down. The long towering corner of Golden Fleece involves increasingly difficult climbing, but as compensation it is very protectable and on reliable stone.

Sinister (HS 4b)/Bob's Climb (VD) - Avon Gorge - Bristol.

Avon Gorge is a spot that divides opinion - some love it and some take the opposite view, but if you are into big challenging trad limestone and can put up with the traffic noise, then Avon is the place to head for, and this combo will give a taste of what to expect at this massive crag.

Esgaroth (HS 4b) - Goblin Combe - North Somerset.

Nestled in a scenic, dry wooded limestone valley, this technical thin crack-line lies on one of several outstanding buttresses that are easily accessible. Though it's a well-known climbing destination, you might still find yourself enjoying some solitude when you visit.

The Devil's Slide (HS 4a) - Lundy - Devon.

Just getting to and staying on Lundy Island is an adventure in itself, but tackling the iconic multi-pitch granite slab will remain in the memory forever.

Icarus (HS 4a) - Valley of Rocks - Devon.

Not an absolutely classic pitch, but it is highly photogenic, and a good reason to visit the magnificent Valley of Rocks and this very special portion of the West Country coastline.

Marion (HS 4a) - Baggy Point - Devon.

One of the motherload of excellent Baggy slab routes, and a good starter being fairly easy to approach and quality from start to finish.

Box of Delights (HS 4b) - Vicarage Cliff - Cornwall.

The best of the easier venues on the Culm Coast, with plenty to keep teams looking for sub-VS grades happy for a day. Box of Delights is the standout route, and when paired with the adventurous approach, the tearoom, pub, and the curiosity of Hawker's Hut, it makes for a perfect day out.

Right Angle (HS 4b)- Gurnard's Head - West Penwith - Cornwall.

They don't come much more impressive than this at the grade! The square-cut zawn is a dizzying place, its black vertical walls looking blank and dropping straight into the sea. However this is an illusion as positive holds are in abundance, which allows the route to stagger its way into, down, and out via the dominating corner. Three pitches you won't forget - simply an awesome route.

Doorpost (HS 4b) - Bosigran- Cornwall.

The classic climb at Bosigran takes centre stage. Its two long crack pitches give immaculate climbing with ever increasing exposure high above the sea.

Demo Route (HS 4b) - Sennen - Cornwall.

A much photographed route that has some tough granite crack climbing on its first pitch followed by a spectacular pull around an overhang at the finish.

Flannel Avenue (HS 4b) - Chair Ladder - Cornwall.

As long as you avoid getting involved with the depths of the chimney near the start of this route, you will have a great experience.

Terrier's Tooth (HS 4b) - Chair Ladder - Cornwall.

The lower section of this route was the victim of a huge rockfall during a storm a few years ago but a new variation start still allows the most spectacular upper section of the tooth to be climbed from sea level at the original grade.

Central Groove (HS 4b) - The Dewerstone - Devon.

Lines don't come much better than this long granite corner, which comes as a bit of a shock on first acquaintance. The upper pitch doesn't disappoint, being a brief but perfectly positioned and proportioned groove and, maybe, the technical crux? On a clear warm day the base of the route, amongst oaks and next to the babbling stream, is a wonderful place to climb and relax.

Never On Sunday (HS 4b) - Chudleigh Rocks - South Face - Devon.

A two pitch journey up one of the regions most charming crags. The first pitch is a bit of a ramble after a tricky start, but the second pitch is a delight up an exposed rib. The route culminates on a summit that feels like an island in the sky, offering expansive views of Dartmoor.

Wall Street (HS 4b) - Swanage - Dorset.

A full-on Swanage sea cliff adventure that needs careful planning. Two-pitches, a bit of a walk to the start, tidal, and requiring an abseil approach, this is most definitely a route that will leave a lasting impression - hopefully a good one!

Guidebook

West Country Climbs

The West Country is home to some of the finest sea cliffs in the country plus many varied inland crags offering an almost unrivaled variety of climbing styles and rock types. Traditional and sport limestone around the Bristol area, beautiful slabs of the Culm Coast, epic big cliffs on the Atlantic Coast, immaculate granite at West Penwith and on The Lizard, the stunning tors of Dartmoor, and more spectacular limestone around Torbay. 

The new edition of this best-selling book to the superb climbing in the southwest of England. The book builds on the extensive coverage of its predecessor with many new crags and routes added....

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